I'm looking to build a rifle for coyote/deer/paper punching. My .300 RUM does the deer and paper but explodes the yotes lol. I came across the 6mm AI the other day. Seems it would work for all three. It won't replace the RUM for deer but I may take it sometimes. I don't want the rifle weighing over 10 lbs. It'll be built on a 700 action probably with a light palma barrel and an HS stock but not sure on those two yet. Anyone shooting one of these now? Would it be better on a SA or LA?
6mmRemAI
- Thread starter bjohnson_7
- Start date
Re: 6mmRemAI
I'm all for cool cartridges, but how much gain would you really see over a 243AI and is it worth the extra hassle. 243 you can find in any sporting goods store in a pinch, not so sure about the 6mm Rem. Brass, dies, etc are all more available and the 243 fits nicely in a SA.
I'm all for cool cartridges, but how much gain would you really see over a 243AI and is it worth the extra hassle. 243 you can find in any sporting goods store in a pinch, not so sure about the 6mm Rem. Brass, dies, etc are all more available and the 243 fits nicely in a SA.
Re: 6mmRemAI
It works better on a LA.
It has a ballistic improvement over the 243 AI as it holds about 10% more powder. The long neck helps the barrel life but you're still talking short life on it.
With an 8 twist 24" barrel you can push the 105gr bullets fast enough to blow them up usually. It SHINES with the 115gr class bullets in it.
It is VERY FAST and VERY FLAT, they make excellent groundhog and coyote rifles, in high winds it's like cheating when you shoot it next to something like a 223 or a 22-250 with light bullets.
I have a custom reamer, new and fireformed brass, some bullets, BR seating die, sizing dies, etc etc for it left over from the one I had.
No recoil whatsoever and with a slow twist tube like a 12tw you can push the 75 Vmax to about Mach 4
ETA: For a hunting rifle, I'd suggest something like a #3-#4 contour about 26" long, if weight is a concern, drop the contour as opposed to the length. This round does better with a longer barrel and slow powders. I think with the good HS P stock and a lighter weight barrel you'll have a rifle that's under 10#, glass included, very easily.
It works better on a LA.
It has a ballistic improvement over the 243 AI as it holds about 10% more powder. The long neck helps the barrel life but you're still talking short life on it.
With an 8 twist 24" barrel you can push the 105gr bullets fast enough to blow them up usually. It SHINES with the 115gr class bullets in it.
It is VERY FAST and VERY FLAT, they make excellent groundhog and coyote rifles, in high winds it's like cheating when you shoot it next to something like a 223 or a 22-250 with light bullets.
I have a custom reamer, new and fireformed brass, some bullets, BR seating die, sizing dies, etc etc for it left over from the one I had.
No recoil whatsoever and with a slow twist tube like a 12tw you can push the 75 Vmax to about Mach 4
ETA: For a hunting rifle, I'd suggest something like a #3-#4 contour about 26" long, if weight is a concern, drop the contour as opposed to the length. This round does better with a longer barrel and slow powders. I think with the good HS P stock and a lighter weight barrel you'll have a rifle that's under 10#, glass included, very easily.
Re: 6mmRemAI
Whenever a 6mm bore(.243) increases capacity above the capacity of a standard .243 Win, bore life goes down faster than a crack whore.
But if your shooting yotes, deer, and killing paper in the 200 rounds or less per year club, it doesn't matter much, I suppose.
If your into volume shooting, bore life matters a lot.
AI'ing does alot when you improve a cartridge that has mucho taper, like the old 250 Savage for example. It does not do much for cartridges that already have minimal taper, like anything based on the .308 case.
None of the above should deter you from building whatever you want for whatever use you see fit.
Just IMHO,
Bob
Whenever a 6mm bore(.243) increases capacity above the capacity of a standard .243 Win, bore life goes down faster than a crack whore.
But if your shooting yotes, deer, and killing paper in the 200 rounds or less per year club, it doesn't matter much, I suppose.
If your into volume shooting, bore life matters a lot.
AI'ing does alot when you improve a cartridge that has mucho taper, like the old 250 Savage for example. It does not do much for cartridges that already have minimal taper, like anything based on the .308 case.
None of the above should deter you from building whatever you want for whatever use you see fit.
Just IMHO,
Bob
Re: 6mmRemAI
Thats what I wanted to hear. A 95 grain NBT will be the lightest coming out of it everything else will be 105 and above. What twist would yall recommend?
Thats what I wanted to hear. A 95 grain NBT will be the lightest coming out of it everything else will be 105 and above. What twist would yall recommend?
Re: 6mmRemAI
The only thing I volume shoot is my ruger 10/22, remington 1100 shotgun and my pistol lol. I've put 250 rounds through my RUM this year. About 500 rounds through my M14. I don't shoot comps, just like punching paper and animals lol.
The only thing I volume shoot is my ruger 10/22, remington 1100 shotgun and my pistol lol. I've put 250 rounds through my RUM this year. About 500 rounds through my M14. I don't shoot comps, just like punching paper and animals lol.
Re: 6mmRemAI
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: countryboy300</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Thats what I wanted to hear. A 95 grain NBT will be the lightest coming out of it everything else will be 105 and above. What twist would yall recommend? </div></div>
For someone at low altitudes and cold weather (coastal Alaska above the arctic circle for example) I'd suggest a 7.5-7.7tw to make sure those 115-118's are stable.
I don't know where you plan on using it, however, for a TN region winter hunting rifle an 8 twist should handle you just fine. Go slightly faster if you want that added piece of mind about making everything stable.
Personally, I'd shoot the 8tw and buy a Shilen CM Match barrel. They shoot very well and from what you're saying it will meet the accuracy demands you need (I've owned about a dozen now and not one has been worse than a 1/2" rifle at 100yd) and the barrel blanks cost $165 from Midway.
For a tube burner like the 6 AI you'll eat that throat out at an exceptional rate (expect 1500 rounds if you treat it nicely). My 6.5-06 goes through them quickly as well and I use it for long range steel matches. Because of that I shoot the Shilens and can afford to throw a barrel into the recycle bin every 4 months during the season.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: countryboy300</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Thats what I wanted to hear. A 95 grain NBT will be the lightest coming out of it everything else will be 105 and above. What twist would yall recommend? </div></div>
For someone at low altitudes and cold weather (coastal Alaska above the arctic circle for example) I'd suggest a 7.5-7.7tw to make sure those 115-118's are stable.
I don't know where you plan on using it, however, for a TN region winter hunting rifle an 8 twist should handle you just fine. Go slightly faster if you want that added piece of mind about making everything stable.
Personally, I'd shoot the 8tw and buy a Shilen CM Match barrel. They shoot very well and from what you're saying it will meet the accuracy demands you need (I've owned about a dozen now and not one has been worse than a 1/2" rifle at 100yd) and the barrel blanks cost $165 from Midway.
For a tube burner like the 6 AI you'll eat that throat out at an exceptional rate (expect 1500 rounds if you treat it nicely). My 6.5-06 goes through them quickly as well and I use it for long range steel matches. Because of that I shoot the Shilens and can afford to throw a barrel into the recycle bin every 4 months during the season.
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