• The Shot You’ll Never Forget Giveaway - Enter To Win A Barrel From Rifle Barrel Blanks!

    Tell us about the best or most memorable shot you’ve ever taken. Contest ends June 13th and remember: subscribe for a better chance of winning!

    Join contest Subscribe

Gunsmithing 700 trigger help

hyena74

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Apr 3, 2011
300
1
51
Springfield, MO
So I ordered a 700 XCR tactical and the add said it had the 40-x trigger. I get it and it is the adjustable x mark pro which i dont like.

Anyway, I ordered a timney 510 tonight and should be here early next week.

So i decided to take x mark pro off the action tonight.

I wanted a couple youtube videos on how to do it and looked simple enough. i small hammer and an 1/8 inch punch was basically all that was needed.

It showed to remove the front pin first, so i go to take it out and the bolt release bar covers about 1/4 of the pin so my punch wont fit in there to drive the pin out.

I push up on the bar and try to force it higher into the gun to expose the entire hole but it wont go any further...so the only thing i can do it drive out the rear pin first so i can remove the bolt stop bar.

I drive the rear pin out right to left and take it all the way out and the bolt stop bar and spring come out. Now the bolt stop bar is not in the way of the front pin, so i drive it partially out from left to right just enough to remove the trigger.

Ok, easy enough, but now im running into problems.

Once the trigger came out out, the sear bar fell out and a small coil spring fell out. I have no idea where the coil spring goes. I played around with it a little and it looks like the sear lays on top of the trigger and the springs goes between the trigger housing and sear and sits on a little rod on the housing.

I cant get it to stay put trying to put it back together...there is nothing holding the spring in and no pin to hold the sear in...so I'm thinking, is the Timney going to have little springs that fall out like the x mark? looks like it will be a pain to get it all together if so.

Finally, after driving the rear pin out, it looks like one end is tapered, and I dont remember which way it goes in.

The front pin was never drove all the way outand the tapered end in on the right side. Is that the same with the left pin also (taper to the right side)? Or is it opposite since the youtube video says to drive the front left to right and the rear right to left?

One other think, are the pins a one time deal and are you supposed to use new pins each time you change the trigger. The reason I as is the pins werent very tight at all and the dront drove back thought real easy, so i was worried about them working their way out with use.

Anyway, this is my first time every working on a remington trigger, so sorry about the noob questions.

thanks in advance
 
I always take them off from the rear first and make sure you hold on to the bolt release spring or it will go flying. If you look at the safety bar ( shiny funny shaped bar that goes in with the front trigger hole) their is a slot the round coil spring sets in. The way to put it back on is with the action in you lap and the barrel off to your left. Start with the front pin closest to the barrel. Line the safety bar and trigger up together in the hole and push something small ( drill bit) in from the side closest to your knee, then push your pin in ( from your lap towards your knee) which pushes the drill bit out. Your front pin is now set and the trigger and safety will flop up and down. Now set the bolt release bar ( thin bar) in the slot and lign it up with the rear hole. Take the bolt release spring ( long thin spring) and press it down to lign it up with the bolt release bar and push the rear pin in just far enough to hold these two in place. Your trigger should be flopping up and down now because its only held in by the front pin. Point the trigger up toward your face and look on the underside of it and you will see a hole where the round coil spring sets. Drop it in the hole then push the safety bar up on the spring ( you should see the cut out where it sets now) and compress the spring down. Hold it tight and push it down towards the rear hole in the action. The rear pin should still be holding the safety bar and safety pin in but still sticking out and pointed towards your lap. Pushe the rear of the trigger down, while compressing the coil spring until the holes lign up and finish pushing the rear pin through and your done. You want the pins loose so you don't have to beat them in, the compression will hold them there. Remember, take it off from the back to front and put it in front to back. When putting it back on front pin goes from nuts to knee and rear pin goes knee to nuts.
 
Last edited:
I got the trigger installed last night and it was pretty simple. Some tricks...

Use a smaller punch on the front pin and you will have enough room to work around the bolt stop. The pins are not that tight, so it doesnt take a whole lot of effort so a smaller punch will work fine.

I would still remove the rear pin completely and remove the bolt stop bar. I took mine out and sanded it on the flats with some 2000 grit wet/dry sandpaper on a mirror then took a buffing wheel on my dremel and some turtle way and polished the entire bolt bolt stop. It works much much slicker now.

The timney didnt have any loose pieces. the front sear was captured and the rear had a slave pin in it, so it was just a matter of lining up the holes and tapping the pins in.

I looked up some pics and for reference, if you take the back pin all the way out to remove the bolt stop, the pin inserts the same as the front pin. the taper is on the bolt handle side on both pins.

Overall, this was a simple swap, even for someone without any experience, like me.
 
After installing it and checking function, I found the bolt release on the timney would bind a little. You adjust it by bending it with needle nose pliers from side to side. I found it worked better and was free of binding bent a little more to the rear of the gun. It works perfectly now.

This trigger feels way better than stock. I think its been said the stock safety lever feels a little better than the timney, but i didnt notice the timney safety feeling in anyway bad.

I really like the feel of the wide and ridged trigger shoe and the curvature fits the finger perfectly...way better feeling than the stock trigger and much more robust im sure.
 
Now, what i dont like...

like i said earlier, the stock safety feels a little bit better (smoother and more positive "click") but its really a non issue as the timney is still smooth and feels fine.

the bolt release has a little rattle to it...you can slap the stock a little and hear it rattle around. I like to bump a gun and have it sound like one solid rattle free unit. I may eventually go with a side bolt release and do away with the factory style bolt release.

and finally, i ordered the standard trigger and it comes preset at 3 lbs. It feels just a little too stiff. Im going to leave it and not adjust it until i send it off to a gun smith to get a little work done on it in the future. I dont have a trigger pull gauge and didnt want to go off feel and make it to light and the gun unsafe, so ill save it for later.

Other than that, I cant think of anything i dont like about the trigger and is a huge and relatively cheap upgrade.

Hope this helps anyone trying to decide on one and plan on doing it themselves.
 
And one last thing, Is there anything the big time custom guys do to the trigger to make it feel even better...like take it apart and stone the angles, polish the internals, etc? Or do they just set the pull weight and call it good?
 
And one last thing, Is there anything the big time custom guys do to the trigger to make it feel even better...like take it apart and stone the angles, polish the internals, etc? Or do they just set the pull weight and call it good?

Man put the damn polishing wheels and stones up!!!!!! Your trigger has 3 screws that are meant to be adjusted. Look at the instructions and find the the trigger weight adjustment screw and screw it out a little and try it, then a little more and try..... until you get it right. Don't mess with the sear adjustment screw. . Once you get it right (check it for safety, beat on it, bang it on the floor to make sure it doesn't discharge), loc tight it down and your gtg. The only screw you need to worry about has the loc nut on it.
Timney 510 Trigger Install & Adjust - Remington AAC-SD - YouTube