This is the test bench at AWC for the Amphibians. There are four about to go into final test and, if you look closely, four more integrals waiting for their lowers.
Photos 8 Amphibians
- Thread starter RollingThunder51
- Start date
Re: 8 Amphibians
I have had one for more than 12 years and it still my favorite suppressed 22LR pistol, out of all the others that I have.
I have had one for more than 12 years and it still my favorite suppressed 22LR pistol, out of all the others that I have.
Re: 8 Amphibians
How quiet is it with sub sonic ammo?
Are there any special cleaning requirements or precautions?
Very nice. A suppressed 22 is on my list.
How quiet is it with sub sonic ammo?
Are there any special cleaning requirements or precautions?
Very nice. A suppressed 22 is on my list.
Re: 8 Amphibians
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Chiller</div><div class="ubbcode-body">can the barrels (cans) be broken down to be cleaned? </div></div>
Nope, the older units were all stainless steel. I have cleaned mine with brake (carburetor) cleaner, and and air hose. Seems to work great.
As far as cycling subsonic, I have had problems with the Remington Subsonic, but the Aquila SSS is super quite and the heavier 60 gr. bullet helps with cycling.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Chiller</div><div class="ubbcode-body">can the barrels (cans) be broken down to be cleaned? </div></div>
Nope, the older units were all stainless steel. I have cleaned mine with brake (carburetor) cleaner, and and air hose. Seems to work great.
As far as cycling subsonic, I have had problems with the Remington Subsonic, but the Aquila SSS is super quite and the heavier 60 gr. bullet helps with cycling.
Re: 8 Amphibians
I have an Aurora Tactical integral suppressed that is supper quiet with subsonic these are a more modern baffle design and should be even quieter.
I have an Aurora Tactical integral suppressed that is supper quiet with subsonic these are a more modern baffle design and should be even quieter.
Re: 8 Amphibians
http://img707.imageshack.us/img707/9133/silence004.jpg
This is AWC's poor mans amphibian. AWC Tit.Arch Angel w/ Mark II
http://img707.imageshack.us/img707/9133/silence004.jpg
This is AWC's poor mans amphibian. AWC Tit.Arch Angel w/ Mark II
Re: 8 Amphibians
This is the 13th generation of this pistol, it utilizes a 303 stainless steel primary baffle and 6061T6 secondary baffle and a new frequency shift chamber. Always a great shooter the new baffel almost completely eliminates aero dynamic disruption. Always insanely accurate (the secret sauce in this receipe is a proprietary hydraulic press used in assembly that puts frequency taming stress on the barrel), the new ones do not disappoint..or come apart. AWC makes nothing that comes apart, for those of us that have tended cans all the way to Sionics, we are mindful and grateful of that fact. AWC is able to make things shorter by going long on precision, alignment and diminuative baffle tolerances. Keep reading.
Subsonic ammo...I do not use subsonic ammo in a good .22 can. A great design does not require it. With regular velocity the sound of the pistol cycling will be the loudest thing happening. It is called the amphibian because you can literally pour two tablespoons of water down the barrel if you need quieter than..than...than quiet. Although you may use any standard or high velocity cartridge, what is recommend for the best sound reduction, power & proper function are the Remy or CCI high velocity 40gr or 36gr hollow point (preferably coated for increased service life). Subsonic rounds are not recommended by AWC.
Cleaning, none, zero, nada. First off this designs uses the residuals as artificial environment, the rest is blown out the barrel. If after thousands of rounds, one simply cannot stand the thought that they might need to clean something you can go four ways:
1. Clear the chamber, insure the weapon is unload with safety engaged and introducing bore foam from the chamber end of the barrel until foam starts to exit the muzzle of the suppressor. Allow the foam solvent to soak for 30 minutes followed by a hot water rinse to remove any sticky residue left behind by the solvent/ foam. This is accomplished by plugging the chamber and pouring denatured alcohol or hot tap water into the front of the suppressor tube. It may take a few pours to fill the chambers. They enclose a few chamber plugs. Use a chamber plug to plug the front of the suppressor and shake barreled upper for about 60 seconds, remove the chamber plugs and allow to drain. Perform another fast rinse and allow the suppressor to drain from both ends. It is also advisable, but not mandatory, to blow compressed air into both ends of the suppressor after cleaning. After cleaning a quick spray of Rem-Oil in the suppressor and action is recommended. Use cotton swabs (Q-Tips) to dry the chamber of the barrel and action prior to firing. Although it is not necessary, if the user insists on cleaning the barrel with a bore brush it is accomplished by using the proper .22 rimfire bore brush only. A bronze brush works best and Shooters Choice is recommended. Always insert the bore brush through the chamber end. This eliminates the possibility of crown damage. After cleaning with bore brush follow the flushing/rinsing procedures described above to remove any sticky residue left behind by the solvent. DO NOT attempt to use a patch! I think I wrote a piece on cleaning with denatured sometimes back.
2. Clear the chamber and buy their new "jet" cleaning tool. It is inexpensive and gets sent right to your house. Attach a hose and your done in a couple of minutes. Im not making this up.
3. Clear the chamber, grasping the pistol by the barrel, place it firmly into your gun safe and lock the door. Open a minimum of 22 ounces of Extra Añejo agave tequilla and proceed to ingest until the need to clean your Amphibian passes. This should take no more than 45 minutes. If you listen to Barbara Streisand or like Hugh Jackman in musicals, best to lock up the "jet spray" tool as well.
4. Return to factory for detailed strip, baffle upgrades, etc. Its cheap and fast and a service they have offered since the late '80s. Say once every five years?
This is the 13th generation of this pistol, it utilizes a 303 stainless steel primary baffle and 6061T6 secondary baffle and a new frequency shift chamber. Always a great shooter the new baffel almost completely eliminates aero dynamic disruption. Always insanely accurate (the secret sauce in this receipe is a proprietary hydraulic press used in assembly that puts frequency taming stress on the barrel), the new ones do not disappoint..or come apart. AWC makes nothing that comes apart, for those of us that have tended cans all the way to Sionics, we are mindful and grateful of that fact. AWC is able to make things shorter by going long on precision, alignment and diminuative baffle tolerances. Keep reading.
Subsonic ammo...I do not use subsonic ammo in a good .22 can. A great design does not require it. With regular velocity the sound of the pistol cycling will be the loudest thing happening. It is called the amphibian because you can literally pour two tablespoons of water down the barrel if you need quieter than..than...than quiet. Although you may use any standard or high velocity cartridge, what is recommend for the best sound reduction, power & proper function are the Remy or CCI high velocity 40gr or 36gr hollow point (preferably coated for increased service life). Subsonic rounds are not recommended by AWC.
Cleaning, none, zero, nada. First off this designs uses the residuals as artificial environment, the rest is blown out the barrel. If after thousands of rounds, one simply cannot stand the thought that they might need to clean something you can go four ways:
1. Clear the chamber, insure the weapon is unload with safety engaged and introducing bore foam from the chamber end of the barrel until foam starts to exit the muzzle of the suppressor. Allow the foam solvent to soak for 30 minutes followed by a hot water rinse to remove any sticky residue left behind by the solvent/ foam. This is accomplished by plugging the chamber and pouring denatured alcohol or hot tap water into the front of the suppressor tube. It may take a few pours to fill the chambers. They enclose a few chamber plugs. Use a chamber plug to plug the front of the suppressor and shake barreled upper for about 60 seconds, remove the chamber plugs and allow to drain. Perform another fast rinse and allow the suppressor to drain from both ends. It is also advisable, but not mandatory, to blow compressed air into both ends of the suppressor after cleaning. After cleaning a quick spray of Rem-Oil in the suppressor and action is recommended. Use cotton swabs (Q-Tips) to dry the chamber of the barrel and action prior to firing. Although it is not necessary, if the user insists on cleaning the barrel with a bore brush it is accomplished by using the proper .22 rimfire bore brush only. A bronze brush works best and Shooters Choice is recommended. Always insert the bore brush through the chamber end. This eliminates the possibility of crown damage. After cleaning with bore brush follow the flushing/rinsing procedures described above to remove any sticky residue left behind by the solvent. DO NOT attempt to use a patch! I think I wrote a piece on cleaning with denatured sometimes back.
2. Clear the chamber and buy their new "jet" cleaning tool. It is inexpensive and gets sent right to your house. Attach a hose and your done in a couple of minutes. Im not making this up.
3. Clear the chamber, grasping the pistol by the barrel, place it firmly into your gun safe and lock the door. Open a minimum of 22 ounces of Extra Añejo agave tequilla and proceed to ingest until the need to clean your Amphibian passes. This should take no more than 45 minutes. If you listen to Barbara Streisand or like Hugh Jackman in musicals, best to lock up the "jet spray" tool as well.
4. Return to factory for detailed strip, baffle upgrades, etc. Its cheap and fast and a service they have offered since the late '80s. Say once every five years?
Re: 8 Amphibians
Or just chuck the upper in two six jaw chucks and beak the red locktite used, and unscrew it all, clean well and reassemble. Hardest part is chucking up the end cap without marring up the finish. If it gets marred up, bead blast and it is back to new.
You only have to do the above the first time. After that you can take it apart and reassemble by hand as needed. (With some strong hands to get it torqued back straight.)
I have done this with mine about twice a year for 5 years. Accuraccy is still like new and I feel like it is properly cleaned. It is amazing how much stuff builds up in these things.
Or just chuck the upper in two six jaw chucks and beak the red locktite used, and unscrew it all, clean well and reassemble. Hardest part is chucking up the end cap without marring up the finish. If it gets marred up, bead blast and it is back to new.
You only have to do the above the first time. After that you can take it apart and reassemble by hand as needed. (With some strong hands to get it torqued back straight.)
I have done this with mine about twice a year for 5 years. Accuraccy is still like new and I feel like it is properly cleaned. It is amazing how much stuff builds up in these things.
Re: 8 Amphibians
Yeooowwwzaa!
allena2s2 what year is your Amphibian? Are you shooting subs in it?
Yeooowwwzaa!
allena2s2 what year is your Amphibian? Are you shooting subs in it?
Re: 8 Amphibians
My grand father was a navy man who has a MKII Amphibian however as long as I can remember even with the integral silencer it has not been much more quite than a standard 22cal pistol, Does anyone know why that might be? I always thought it needed to be cleaned but I guess not.
My grand father was a navy man who has a MKII Amphibian however as long as I can remember even with the integral silencer it has not been much more quite than a standard 22cal pistol, Does anyone know why that might be? I always thought it needed to be cleaned but I guess not.
Re: 8 Amphibians
stop showing me new cool things I didn't know existed that will hurt my bank account
stop showing me new cool things I didn't know existed that will hurt my bank account
Re: 8 Amphibians
Couple of things here:
First Concretelycan, welcome to the hide, first post and its a good one. Your grandfather pistol is a prize and should operate super quiet as the Mark II started the match grade barrel integral production so it should be very accurate as well. Service Ampibians are rare and valuable and you should get that unit back to AWC so they can see why it isn't operating to original spec. I have never had them charge me for an inspection and I would start there. Within 2 seconds they will know what is the issue and then you will have a choice to make. Bring it back to the original spec of that "period" (many do) or bring it all the way up 13th Gen, Mark III. Either way you won't be disappointed and that is why folks buy from manufactureres that have been and will be around. Start by taking a photo of the original pistol as it would be interesting to see it before and after. By the way, I heard about a contractors pistol coming in with 90,000 (thats right Ninety Thousand)rounds through it. So whatever you choose to do, like any Amphibian, your unit will be brought all the way back to new spec and what a family prize that will be. Be sure and post out the before and after on the HIde. As a side by, if your pistol is a vintage '95 II's, you can hear what Amphibians II's should sound like in the movie "Assassines". What you hear was unadulterated, rare in a movie, but so quiet they didn't need to do anything.
Now, I was hoping to hear from Allen2S2 on his "take it apart" concept. The issue is a simple one, AWC puts high torque on their cans to control the harmonics of the barrel. In a proprietary press, they apply 100 foot pounds of torque to their amphibians. When one thinks that one uses about 65 foot pounds on a car tire lug, or that one only applies about 30-50 foot pounds on an M-4 barrel nut (80 tops) you can see it is really quite alot of torque. In order to get the front site to reset back, one would need to apply the same amount every time. Get the jet tool and clean right away ($40)if you cant stand not doing it. Cracking open that unit is not the way to go. Creative though...very creative!
Couple of things here:
First Concretelycan, welcome to the hide, first post and its a good one. Your grandfather pistol is a prize and should operate super quiet as the Mark II started the match grade barrel integral production so it should be very accurate as well. Service Ampibians are rare and valuable and you should get that unit back to AWC so they can see why it isn't operating to original spec. I have never had them charge me for an inspection and I would start there. Within 2 seconds they will know what is the issue and then you will have a choice to make. Bring it back to the original spec of that "period" (many do) or bring it all the way up 13th Gen, Mark III. Either way you won't be disappointed and that is why folks buy from manufactureres that have been and will be around. Start by taking a photo of the original pistol as it would be interesting to see it before and after. By the way, I heard about a contractors pistol coming in with 90,000 (thats right Ninety Thousand)rounds through it. So whatever you choose to do, like any Amphibian, your unit will be brought all the way back to new spec and what a family prize that will be. Be sure and post out the before and after on the HIde. As a side by, if your pistol is a vintage '95 II's, you can hear what Amphibians II's should sound like in the movie "Assassines". What you hear was unadulterated, rare in a movie, but so quiet they didn't need to do anything.
Now, I was hoping to hear from Allen2S2 on his "take it apart" concept. The issue is a simple one, AWC puts high torque on their cans to control the harmonics of the barrel. In a proprietary press, they apply 100 foot pounds of torque to their amphibians. When one thinks that one uses about 65 foot pounds on a car tire lug, or that one only applies about 30-50 foot pounds on an M-4 barrel nut (80 tops) you can see it is really quite alot of torque. In order to get the front site to reset back, one would need to apply the same amount every time. Get the jet tool and clean right away ($40)if you cant stand not doing it. Cracking open that unit is not the way to go. Creative though...very creative!
Re: 8 Amphibians
I only shoot standard vel. ammo. Mostly remington thunderbolt. Subs will not cycle in mine. Plus why would you shoot subs anyway, even the high velocity ammo is subsonic out of these pistols. If you want it a bit quiter add water and/or put your thumb on the back of the slide for a single shot mode.
Actually I have two anphibians, Mk II and the new Mk III. I also built one myself, turned out quieter than either of the AWC's. I used a slightly different baffle design, but the same blast chamber, and barrel porting (where the magic sound levels come from on these).
AWC puts a crapload of red locktite on the treads. I think this also serves as a pressure seal where the three main components come togather. Since i do not reapply new locktite after dissasembly (for ease of dissasembly later), mine form a faint black line of oil/gunpowder residue at the joint after about 20-30 rounds. But mine have never loosened up, not once.
Like I said two six jaw chucks will get it unscrewed the first time relativly easily. I did't put a torque rench to mine so cannot comment on the spec of 100 ft lbs. I do understand the harmonics on the barrel the way this thing goes back togather, mine are still as accurate as new, so maybe I am luckey. My take is they just don't want people reproducing their work and make up stuff to scare folks into thinking it "cannot" be taken apart, and if you do you will ruin it because you don't have the "propritery press" that they do. I would like to see the AWC "propritery press", I imagine it is not all that special, I dont see any pressed parts or processes in these pistols anyhow, all threaded and machined.
Allen
I only shoot standard vel. ammo. Mostly remington thunderbolt. Subs will not cycle in mine. Plus why would you shoot subs anyway, even the high velocity ammo is subsonic out of these pistols. If you want it a bit quiter add water and/or put your thumb on the back of the slide for a single shot mode.
Actually I have two anphibians, Mk II and the new Mk III. I also built one myself, turned out quieter than either of the AWC's. I used a slightly different baffle design, but the same blast chamber, and barrel porting (where the magic sound levels come from on these).
AWC puts a crapload of red locktite on the treads. I think this also serves as a pressure seal where the three main components come togather. Since i do not reapply new locktite after dissasembly (for ease of dissasembly later), mine form a faint black line of oil/gunpowder residue at the joint after about 20-30 rounds. But mine have never loosened up, not once.
Like I said two six jaw chucks will get it unscrewed the first time relativly easily. I did't put a torque rench to mine so cannot comment on the spec of 100 ft lbs. I do understand the harmonics on the barrel the way this thing goes back togather, mine are still as accurate as new, so maybe I am luckey. My take is they just don't want people reproducing their work and make up stuff to scare folks into thinking it "cannot" be taken apart, and if you do you will ruin it because you don't have the "propritery press" that they do. I would like to see the AWC "propritery press", I imagine it is not all that special, I dont see any pressed parts or processes in these pistols anyhow, all threaded and machined.
Allen
Re: 8 Amphibians
Also FYI:
It would be possible to only take off the suppressor tube (containing the baffle stack) and leave on the blast chamber (that is what i call it) tensioned to the barrel as it came from the factory. You just have to know where to set the chuck to grip onto the blast chamber and not the reciever.
Also FYI:
It would be possible to only take off the suppressor tube (containing the baffle stack) and leave on the blast chamber (that is what i call it) tensioned to the barrel as it came from the factory. You just have to know where to set the chuck to grip onto the blast chamber and not the reciever.
Re: 8 Amphibians
Been quite the day on the suppressor front here at the Hide, sorry for the delay.
Allen, its all good. We agree subsonic is of no use as these pistols hold the velocity between 1,000 to 1,100 just below Super Sonic and that is with HIGH velocity as you stated. Besides, Subs are filthy by nature, using the poorest grade powders.
On your other point. The cans are not made that way to keep folks out. People have been cracking Amphibians for decades now. If they really wanted to keep you out they would tack it shut. They don't as they are true believers in their barrel stretch harmonics. Consider this, on your newer models the end cap is as you know welded, that shrinks that unit and adds even more to the front stack thread torque. It is actually much more than 100 ft/lbs. You got by that through your hard work. Your rewards are as you find them! I salute you!
Been quite the day on the suppressor front here at the Hide, sorry for the delay.
Allen, its all good. We agree subsonic is of no use as these pistols hold the velocity between 1,000 to 1,100 just below Super Sonic and that is with HIGH velocity as you stated. Besides, Subs are filthy by nature, using the poorest grade powders.
On your other point. The cans are not made that way to keep folks out. People have been cracking Amphibians for decades now. If they really wanted to keep you out they would tack it shut. They don't as they are true believers in their barrel stretch harmonics. Consider this, on your newer models the end cap is as you know welded, that shrinks that unit and adds even more to the front stack thread torque. It is actually much more than 100 ft/lbs. You got by that through your hard work. Your rewards are as you find them! I salute you!
Re: 8 Amphibians
My Mk III must not be the newest they make, end cap is threaded the same as the Mk II. Then there is a "threaded baffle" you screw down on the last K baffle to tighten the stack up (it looks like a threaded washer with a slot for a straight blade screw driver.) But the cap itself is just threaded and locktited on.
My Mk III must not be the newest they make, end cap is threaded the same as the Mk II. Then there is a "threaded baffle" you screw down on the last K baffle to tighten the stack up (it looks like a threaded washer with a slot for a straight blade screw driver.) But the cap itself is just threaded and locktited on.
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