Gunsmithing a little tip for bead blasting.

300sniper

Gunny Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Jan 17, 2005
3,438
26
Greenwood, Ca
maybe no one else has this problem when bead blasting stainless for a matte finish but i sure have. i would blast until it looked great in the cabinet and then when the part was brought out in the sunlight, there were obvious shiners. the part would have to be put back in the cabinet and hit where i thought the shiners were. again, when brought back into sunlight, i'd see more spots i missed.

i had a barrel to do today and had an idea to coat it with dykem before i tossed it in the cabinet. it made it really easy to keep track of where i'd been and where i needed to blast. by the time the dykem was completely gone, i had the finish i was after.

if you don't have the problem i have been having, disregard this. if you do, you may want to try it next time.

and some pics just because.

260rem.jpg


muzzlecrown5-1.jpg
 
Re: a little tip for bead blasting.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: RADcustom</div><div class="ubbcode-body">You missed a spot.
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FUUUUUUUUU...
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Re: a little tip for bead blasting.

I'd blast the chit outta that shiney ring jusssttttt at the very edge of the bore!!!! No call for it to be smooth and shiney there
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Re: a little tip for bead blasting.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 300sniper</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><span style="color: #3333FF"><span style="font-style: italic">I usually hit the crown with corse alox at 135 psi to debur it after I shape it with a rat tail file.</span> </span></div></div>

I fixed it for you. (I hope)
 
Re: a little tip for bead blasting.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: RADcustom</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 300sniper</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><span style="color: #3333FF"><span style="font-style: italic">I usually hit the crown with corse alox at 135 psi to debur it after I shape it with a rat tail file.</span> </span></div></div>

I fixed it for you. (I hope) </div></div>

LOL!!!
 
Re: a little tip for bead blasting.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 300sniper</div><div class="ubbcode-body">maybe no one else has this problem when bead blasting stainless for a matte finish but i sure have. i would blast until it looked great in the cabinet and then when the part was brought out in the sunlight, there were obvious shiners. the part would have to be put back in the cabinet and hit where i thought the shiners were. again, when brought back into sunlight, i'd see more spots i missed.

i had a barrel to do today and had an idea to coat it with dykem before i tossed it in the cabinet. it made it really easy to keep track of where i'd been and where i needed to blast. by the time the dykem was completely gone, i had the finish i was after.

if you don't have the problem i have been having, disregard this. if you do, you may want to try it next time.

and some pics just because.

260rem.jpg


muzzlecrown5-1.jpg
</div></div>

Which font style and cutter type did you use on this barrel?

Thanks,

Dennis
 
Re: a little tip for bead blasting.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: C. Dixon</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Bert,

Better lights, better dust collector, and routine replacement of the glass helps too.
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you must have seen my cabinet
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