Suppressors AAC 51T muzzle brake mod - 'smith recommendations?

[BurnOut]

So, I have decided that rather than run the simple 51T Blackout flash hider as a muzzle device on my Grendel, I'd like to run one of the 51T muzzle brake mounts. Unfortunately, AAC only offers them in two configurations: .308" (-ish) hole with 5/8-24 threads, and .223" (-ish) hole with 1/2-28 threads. Unfortunately, my Grendel is threaded 9/16-24.

However, this morning I had an epiphany (or a brain fart, you decide) in that I could buy one of the .223 muzzle brakes and send it to someone with a lathe who can open up the threads to 9/16-24 and open up the hole to accommodate the .264" diameter bullets. Sounds simple, right?

So I said all of that to say this... does anyone have any recommendations regarding a 'smith to whom I can send the brake for this work?

TIA

 

[Strykervet]

Not sure of a smith, but you'll likely need the 1/2-28, but you already figured that out it seems. Even then, 1/2 = 8/16, and I know you can't re-thread a 9/16-24 to a 5/8-24 = 10/16-24, for the same reason you'd like to: there isn't enough meat to remove.

Now I could be wrong, there may be someone that can do this somehow. Where there's a will, there's a way I guess.

If you're gonna send this in, why not just get the barrel cut back 1 inch and re-thread that to 5/8-24 --don't they make a Grendel brake for that? I have a 9/16-24 Grendel, and I can tell you the 5/8-24 threading is more desirable. If you're barrel is 17" or over you are good to go (if you go shorter than 16" you'll need to blind pin it, and once that's done, certain parts can't be removed).

Whoever does work on these, if you go this route, find one that will check your threads and the mount for run out with a dial indicator, the lower the tolerance and closer to zero the better. Make sure to give him the can, so he can mount that properly too, since you'll have the barrel on a lathe already it should be easy. They can cut or grind that bevel so it locks up much tighter.

Most gunsmiths can't take NFA items (and do you wanna transfer them and all that shit?). So what you may end up having to do is find a good local gunsmith you can take it to and then be present when he works on tightening up the lockup on the can. Try calling local gun shops and ask who they all recommend as the best local gunsmith, then call around and visit and try to narrow it down from there.

Good luck.

 

[BurnOut]

Not sure of a smith, but you'll likely need the 1/2-28, but you already figured that out it seems. Even then, 1/2 = 8/16, and I know you can't re-thread a 9/16-24 to a 5/8-24 = 10/16-24, for the same reason you'd like to: there isn't enough meat to remove.

Now I could be wrong, there may be someone that can do this somehow. Where there's a will, there's a way I guess.

If you're gonna send this in, why not just get the barrel cut back 1 inch and re-thread that to 5/8-24 --don't they make a Grendel brake for that? I have a 9/16-24 Grendel, and I can tell you the 5/8-24 threading is more desirable. If you're barrel is 17" or over you are good to go (if you go shorter than 16" you'll need to blind pin it, and once that's done, certain parts can't be removed).

Whoever does work on these, if you go this route, find one that will check your threads and the mount for run out with a dial indicator, the lower the tolerance and closer to zero the better. Make sure to give him the can, so he can mount that properly too, since you'll have the barrel on a lathe already it should be easy. They can cut or grind that bevel so it locks up much tighter.

Most gunsmiths can't take NFA items (and do you wanna transfer them and all that shit?). So what you may end up having to do is find a good local gunsmith you can take it to and then be present when he works on tightening up the lockup on the can. Try calling local gun shops and ask who they all recommend as the best local gunsmith, then call around and visit and try to narrow it down from there.

Good luck.

Ya know, you make a good point regarding the measurements... I hadn't thought about that. Hmm. I have to admit that I thought about getting the barrel cut back and re-threaded after I made my initial post, and that does have a certain amount of appeal given that it's a 24" tube... I was just hoping to have the "cheap" part (the muzzle brake) modified rather than a more expensive part (the barrel).

Regarding the fitting of the suppressor to the brake, a friend and I are in the process of getting set up to modify some other brakes/flash hiders for that purpose... the plan is to use an adapter that we had made (5/8-24) chucked into a drill press, then some fine sand paper and a machinist's edge to grind back the bevel until we get the tooth engagement that we're after. While it's a pain in the ass (and something that I think AAC should handle via tighter manufacturing tolerances), it's better than a loose can.

I appreciate your input, and may in fact go the barrel modification route if I can't find anyone who is willing to re-work the brake.