Suppressors AAC 762-SD 18T solution

[redneckbmxer24]

I'm one of the unlucky ones that bought a 762-SD 18 tooth can and it has been nothing but problems since day one. It has always loosened after a few shots regardless of how clean the threads are or which mount I use. I have 5 different mounts and it's the same deal on every one. AAC has replaced the spring several times and it seems to do no good. When I inquired a couple years ago about a retrofit to direct thread or 51 tooth I was told they had the capability but no interest in doing it (awesome customer support!) even if I paid them 100% for their time and materials.

I've seen the mod where some people have added set screws to the can but a friend mine did this with his and has had horrible POI shifts with the can and it's not repeatable. It's used on a precision rifle for me so it obviously has to be 100% repeatable.

At this point I could obviously give two craps about the warranty since it doesn't seem to mean much. I'm wondering what my options are if any to modify the can to a different system? If nothing else I'll take one of my 18T mounts and permanently weld the fucker in there if I have to. I do like having the ability of using it on a variety of rifles but I have dedicated AR cans so it's not an absolute must. Permanently being 5/8-24 wouldn't hurt my feelings a bit and I could always buy an adaptor if need be.

Does anybody have any ideas to try or know anybody that can modify it? Any advice is appreciated.

 

[poison123]

Set screws have been 100% repeatable for for me so far.

 

[Goin'Hot]

This is from another post but it should still "fix" your problem. I've been lucky with my 18T 7.62 SD. Mine locks up tight on all of my mounts. Good luck.

First post and all, but...

This is EASY to fix. I fit all my mounts to my M4-2000 and
SDN-6.

For the 5/8-24 Blackout:

1) Cram a 3/8" wooden dowel in from the prong end.
2) Chuck other end of dowel into low speed drill press.
3) Beveled surface facing up @ you just downrange from teeth
or just behind threads is surface to be ground.
4) Use fine or medium EZLap, magnifying glasses, and a
sharpee to carefully grind back that edge.
5) Grind, check fit , grind 'till she locks up @ your desired
torque or tightness - I'm low round count per session,
not worried about can getting stuck on gun, and set mine up
fairly tight.

If your can is already loose, and you're already close to the next tooth, this takes 2 mins. If you need to advance 3/4 of the notch, then it takes some time.

Works GREAT for me. Accuracy improved, my POI shifts are nil,
and it turns a rattling "suboptimal accessory" into what it should have been in the first place.

BayouRobert

 

[redneckbmxer24]

Which edge is he referring to? Not much detail there. Any pics?

 

[Ben Dover]

Which edge is he referring to? Not much detail there. Any pics?

there is a ramped edge that leads up to the teeth that the can mates to. removing surface area from the ramped edge allows the can to thread further on and click on to the next tooth instead of sitting between teeth.

 

[redneckbmxer24]

Ok. That's a precision surface, not something you should be grinding away on. I recently sold my lathe but I've got a buddy with a machine shop so I'll go use his and see if it helps at all.

 

[Ben Dover]

Ok. That's a precision surface, not something you should be grinding away on. I recently sold my lathe but I've got a buddy with a machine shop so I'll go use his and see if it helps at all.

I would definitely not go about this with and drill press and take the route you are taking with using a machine shop.

 

[chainring]

That's not going to help an 18tooth mount. Drill your can for a set screw to come down between the teeth - there are threads and pics of that, and it works. Polishing the mating surface back for a tighter tooth engagement is for the 51 tooth mounts with the latch, not the spring like 18 tooth mounts.

 

[Mike_Honcho]

When I inquired a couple years ago about a retrofit to direct thread or 51 tooth I was told they had the capability but no interest in doing it (awesome customer support!) even if I paid them 100% for their time and materials.

Any advice is appreciated.

Having watched AAC and read Silencertalk for years before the merger I have always marveled at the stuff their customers are willing to tolerate.

*I* will never buy one of their products.

 

[redneckbmxer24]

I will say that pretty much every AAC complaint has to do with one QD system or another. So far they haven't been able to make a QD system to save their life. The 51T and 90T lock up a little better but the teeth are so small they mar easily and open a whole new can of worms. Bottom line, their QD systems SUCKS. If somebody feels otherwise I'm sorry but that's how it is. When I bought my 762-SD there wasn't a lot of feedback about them and if I knew then what I know now I would have bought the thread on cyclone that's was sitting in the case beside it.

AAC has great baffle designs though and their cans are tough (aside from the QD mounts). I didn't hesitate buying a ranger 2 and it has been a great can. I've probably got 5K rounds through it, never cleaned it, and the minimal POI shift is always consistent. Their pistol cans (specifically the Tirant) always get praise too, I've never heard a complaint.

They just need to drops their bullshit QD mounts and go back to the drawing board.

 

[The Gump]

I'm one of the unlucky ones that bought a 762-SD 18 tooth can and it has been nothing but problems since day one. It has always loosened after a few shots regardless of how clean the threads are or which mount I use. I have 5 different mounts and it's the same deal on every one. AAC has replaced the spring several times and it seems to do no good. When I inquired a couple years ago about a retrofit to direct thread or 51 tooth I was told they had the capability but no interest in doing it (awesome customer support!) even if I paid them 100% for their time and materials.

I've seen the mod where some people have added set screws to the can but a friend mine did this with his and has had horrible POI shifts with the can and it's not repeatable. It's used on a precision rifle for me so it obviously has to be 100% repeatable.

At this point I could obviously give two craps about the warranty since it doesn't seem to mean much. I'm wondering what my options are if any to modify the can to a different system? If nothing else I'll take one of my 18T mounts and permanently weld the fucker in there if I have to. I do like having the ability of using it on a variety of rifles but I have dedicated AR cans so it's not an absolute must. Permanently being 5/8-24 wouldn't hurt my feelings a bit and I could always buy an adaptor if need be.

Does anybody have any ideas to try or know anybody that can modify it? Any advice is appreciated.

Maybe RSilvers will chime in...?

 

[mike in pa]

Having watched AAC and read Silencertalk for years before the merger I have always marveled at the stuff their customers are willing to tolerate.

*I* will never buy one of their products.

Same here, plus many have backed away from them.

My first can was an AAC, I have bought nine more since and none are AAC. Even my close shooting buddys had issues with their stuff and never went back.

BTW They got worse now that Remington took over.

 

[bluto77]

The first can I ordered is the 762-SDN-6. I'm hoping it will arrive in the next 30 - 45 days. It will be mounted on the Advanced Armament MPW 300 BLK with 9" barrel. I had seen some mixed reviews, but I went with the 762-SDN-6 because it's the one that AAC recommends for that rifle. I don't plan on shooting the rifle unsuppressed. I knew about the 51T Ratchet mount and the 51T Flash Suppressor on the rifle. But the barrel is threaded, and I was thinking I would be able to screw the suppressor on since I'm planning on leaving it there. Sounds like this not an option. Am I right? Can you only use the 51T mount and not simply screw it on? I realize this is an extremely dumb question. I probably should've researched it more.

I also have a Thunderbeast 30P-1 on the way. I could always use it, but I was really planning on just using that on my precision rifles and not the gas gun which will be fired about 10x more.

 

[redneckbmxer24]

I just figured I would update this thread.

I was out at WAR rifles today shooting the shit and they had a customer with the same problem with his 762-SD. They pinned and welded it in two places and it took care of it.

My can walks around when its tightened down as tight as it will go so I think I'm going to have it pinned and welded onto a mount in 3 places spaced 120 degrees apart. This should take care of the main problem and make it serviceable, the next problem, the weight (34oz with mount), will be solved with a new SAS Arbitor TOMB can.

To top things off, today when I got home with a 223 I bought I noticed my ranger 2 was wobbling as I threaded it on, I had never paid this close attention before. This explains the wear mark on the can I noticed a few months ago and just ignored. Sure enough I just barely snugged it and I could see daylight between the barrel and the can. The thread protector fits 100% as does several A2 flash hiders. It's pretty said that a mass produced $10 flash hider is more concentric than a $550 suppressor. AAC can go fuck themselves as far as I'm concerned. I thought they had their thread on cans right at least... NOPE...

 

[Icallem]

I had a 51t mount that I could not get to work even after machine work, so had it welded up. It works great now.

I also called AAC to see if they would make it a direct thread on, but they acted like I had just told them I saw Elvis in the parking lot.

My only vote is with my wallet and I vote against AAC. In fact I have voted for TB, with it transferring on a form 3 now.