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About to buy a Dillon 1050

datguy

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Jan 21, 2012
251
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51
WA state
I've been reading, researching and bugging Brian Enos for the past several weeks concerning buying a new 1050.

I load my .45acp and .223 on a 550 currently. I really, really want auto index and a case feeder. I kinda geek out on reloading gear and tools/equipment in general and the 1050 looks like an amazing machine for lots of reasons. The built in swager, prime on the down stroke, on and on. All looks great.

My goals for the 1050 would be:

1. Bulk load .45acp
2. 5.56/.223 brass prep
3. Bulk load .223
4. Quick deprime in .223, .45acp and .308

I'm ok with spending the money if the press is "that good".

My hesitation is in the caliber change. 20-30 minutes doesn't bother me. My .45acp brass is small primer, so everything is good to go with one priming setup. I've read so many "caliber changes take forever" sort if stuff that it has me second guessing buying the 1050.

Anyone wanna help convince me, or talk me into a 650?
 
OK, I'll take a shot . . .

If you are only gonna load 1k batches, there's no point . . . other than to satisfy your reloada-geek . . . which is BTW reason enough.

/sigh I tried.
 
I will talk you OUT of a 650.

I just went through this a month ago. I already had a 1050 that is dedicated to brass prep with a Forcht Rotary drive so I was familiar with the 1050, just never loaded on one. Have loaded a LOT on a 550b. After running a 1050 you will wonder why any other Dillon press exists. It costs a bunch, especially caliber conversions, but its SO worth it and everybody that has loaded on my 1050 says the same thing. So smooth, so easy, so fast.

Here was what I came up with:
Pro's of a 1050:
ability to eventually convert to auto drive like my current 1050
primer seating on the up stroke with set primer depth via screw on tool head
swage(I run a lot of mixed range brass and picking out brass that needs swaging is a pain and greatly slows the process down)
speed(1050 can be run faster due to the primer seating and not needing to stop and cull crimped brass)

Pro's for 650:
its cheaper
ponser warren auto drive is available, but not nearly as nice as the Forcht Rotary drive for the super 1050
cheaper caliber conversions

Get ready for 500+ dollar caliber conversions on a 1050 though when you figure in a $200 tool head, $100 in dies(got to get the swage backup die too), caliber conversion kit(shell plate, locator buttons, case colator wheel, case feeder shuttle and tube adapter), extra powder thrower, etc...

For a machine that will do 45 and .223 you would probably be in it close to $2500. You will also never question if you bought the right press. If you are thinking on a 1050 and you "settle" for a 650 you will always regret your purchase IMO. Go for the 1050, eat the cost, never look back.

 
I will talk you OUT of a 650

...ability to eventually convert to auto drive..

For a machine that will do 45 and .223 you would probably be in it close to $2500. You will also never question if you bought the right press. If you are thinking on a 1050 and you "settle" for a 650 you will always regret your purchase IMO. Go for the 1050, eat the cost, never look back.

Thank you! First hand experience with a 1050. You pretty much summed up what I've suspected- once it's on the bench I'll never question buying it. Got a little extra cash coming in a week.

Do you suggest Dillon's case trimmer?

The primer stacker doodad?

I have thought I'd buy it with 3 tool heads- .223, .45acp and empty tool head with decapping die and RT1200..
 
Yes to the RT1200B trimmer.

No to the dillon primer filler, at least not in my opinion. I have 10 primer tubes. Takes about 2 minutes per tube to fill up and I set them aside in a little wood rack I built. I seem to need a break about every 500 rounds or so, so its a good time to re-fill primer tubes. I guess I cant see my self needing to spend $300 on the primer tube filler. Maybe you can. IMO, dont get it now, but maybe think about it in the future.

As far as the trimmer, yes get it for rifle brass prep. The Dillon die is a bit tight in the neck so there are 2 ways to "solve" this. One is to send the die out and have it reamed a little. Most shops can do this. The other(the route I chose) was to get a 21st Century Shooting mandrel neck expander. This sets your neck tension PERFECTLY and helps your brass concentricity. My 223 prep tool head is setup like this: Lee universal de-prime, swage, empty, empty, trimmer, empty, 21st Century Mandrel neck expander. Everything accomplished in one pass. My trim die is the only die I use for full length sizing, I dont have a "traditional" full length die on the machine. Lube, run through machine, tumble to remove lube, bam, ready to load brass. And get the Lee universal de-primer. Its WAY more stout than any other die I have tried. Get a couple extra de-cap rods as they are $2 and also mess with the tension on the unit as they are VERY tight from the factory and wont slip, they will just bend the rod(ask me how I know LOL).

As far as how to buy the machine. You said you are using 100% SPP 45 brass. DO NOT buy the machine setup for 45. Buy the machine setup for .223 so you get the small primer setup, one less thing to buy. The 1050 does NOT come with both primer setups like the 550/650 does, you have to buy it and its not cheap. So to convert to 45 you will need: tool head, dies, powder thrower(I like a separate pistol and rifle thrower instead of messing with changing powder bars), conversion kit(shell plate, buttons, backup swage expander, colator wheel, case feed adapter, etc...). Only thing else you will need(and I dont know if BEnos has them) is the backup swage expander die body($20 I think) plus the special lock ring(I think its a 5/8's or something). You also will want to make sure you have a separate powder through die and activator for 45, which I dont know if they are included with the powder thrower or not(most likely NOT). Brian can make sure you get everything, but like I said, I dont think he stocks some of the small parts, but Dillon is fast at shipping.

As far as spare parts, if you order from Dillon order a few of the advance pawls and springs, they are like $3 a piece, but if they bend or break, the machine is out of commission. The advance pawl is just cheap stamped steel and bends fairly easily. I think I am on my 4th or 5th on my auto drive machine, but that thing gets a lot more abuse. Also get a second tool head main spring, I think they are $15, but again, if something happens(they have been known to pop out the side) the machine is down. The only other springs that have been known to cause issues are the primer springs, but I think they are good for 25-30k rounds. I dont have spares, but will probably pick up a spare or two next time I order from Dillon.

Then come the accessories. A lot of people swear by the bearing for the shell plate. I dont have one and honestly havent felt a need. The final 2" or so of handle throw controls the advance. You can run it smooth and not have issues. Others swear by the plastic ball a guy on ebay sells to replace the metal ball, I dont know, my metal ball seems to work fine. Some will say clip a little off the detent ball spring. Again, mine seems to be ok from the factory and runs fairly smooth. I do have on my brass prep dedicated machine the little spent primer tube a guy sells on Brian Enos for like 15 bucks or something that you hook a tube up to and then feeds into a bucket(I use a little 1 quart paint can from homodepot). I need to get another one for my new machine. There are a couple places that sell tool head stands. I bought one from the same guy that sells the spent primer tube bracket. Its ok, its a little flimsy when trying to put a tool head on that has a trimmer. Next one I buy will be from somewhere else. Somebody makes a metal one, another place makes a solid plastic(delrin maybe) one that looks a TON stronger. There are plans on Brian Enos for one you can build out of PVC pipe.

Let me know what other questions you have and I will try to answer them. Most of the questions I had, I found answers to on Brian Enos.

ETA: if you can mount your press on the edge of your bench, rock on. I wanted mine mounted a little bit back so I had to notch my bench for the handle. Wasnt a big deal on my bench, but might be on yours. Inline Fabrications just released their 1050 mount that raises the machine up slightly and SHOULD(I dont have any direct experience, but if you call Dan he should know) allow you to mount the machine back from the edge and not have handle interference.
 
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I use the 21st Century Shooting expander mandrel for my .308 loads on a T-7. A .223 version was already on my shopping list. Good call!

I'll probably get the Inline Fab mount. All of my other presses are on Dan's mounts. I really like them.

I don't want to buy it in .223 because I don't want Dillon's .223 dies. I was thinking buy in .45acp and specify small primer to work with my small primer brass.

Thanks for the info! I have it in a shopping cart..
 
You will love the machine.

The caliber changes are not the nightmare people would have you believe. You will probably be loading such big batches by the time you do a caliber change you will want to take the machine apart for a PM anyway.

Taking the machine apart gives you knowledge that helps you immediatly sort out and recognize any problems right away.

When I first set mine up one of the most frustrating issues I had was with the safety ratchet. I currently run mine without it. Its a good system and my lack of knowledge was the problem. I didnt realize there is a little set screw on the side of the ratchet arm to set tension. Mine needed more tension and it was letting the ratchet engage mid stroke which causes everything to come to a clunking halt. Hopefully me telling you this helps you to avoid my frustration.

Dont hesitate to contact someone with one of these machines if it has set up issues. They run awesome when dialed in. It is the only reloading press I have ever used/owned and as a total neophyte I have been able to get it going. I reload .45 ACP, .38 wadcutters, .223, 30-06 and .308. Everything has its own tool heads so Im invested into Dillon. Brian Enos is your friend.

I use the RT1200 and agree the necks are tight. I remedy it by pain in the ass reaming and chamfering so there is no copper jacket shaving. I really need to consider a mandrel.

I use the rapid fill for large primers. Its great and I recommend it if the return check is big enough. I wish I had one for small primers but havent had that extra cash on hand and I dont know where I would put it. Ive considered the small primer conversion but I dont want to dick with another tool to save short time.
 
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The primer swage feature is your friend...get the 1050 and never look back. I used to own one and plan to purchase another one someday.
 
I don't want to buy it in .223 because I don't want Dillon's .223 dies. I was thinking buy in .45acp and specify small primer to work with my small primer brass.

Sell the dies. Thats what I did. Sold em in one day for what Dillon gets for them. My brass prep machine was bought as a 223 machine, but I wasnt going to use the dies.

I dont think you can spec the 1050 for small primer 45, but maybe B. Enos can get it that way. Ive bought both mine direct from Graf's under my dealer account and they dont do special orders so it is how it comes from Dillon.

As far as the mount, honestly its not needed if you can mount the press to the edge of your bench or if you dont mind cutting a notch in your bench for the handle to clear. The 1050 frame is beefy as hell as is and Dillon designed it to not need any other kind of mount. If you want to mount the machine back from the edge, look at the inline fab mount, but call Dan and ask him if its designed to be mounted away from the edge and clear the handle, it may or may not be and you may still be having to notch your bench. The 1050 handle is height adjustable too where as the other dillon handles are not.
 
I have an email in to Brian asking about small primer .45.

I appreciate all of the input!

Which bullet feeder is the one to get?
 
Which bullet feeder is the one to get?

Mr. Bullet Feeder

BUT, get the machine and load on it for a bit before you go to the bullet feeder to make sure you know how to run the machine as well as making sure everything is working smoothly. Lots of stuff going on on a 1050. Rick from Mr. Bullet Feeder advised me to do this and honestly, I dont know now if I want to spend the money.
 
Got an email back from Brian Enos, I can order a 1050 in .45acp with small priming system.

I will be wanting on the bullet feeder a little bit. If I went with the GSI unit, it would change my initial 1050 order so I don't end up with unwanted tool heads..

Doesn't look like Mr. Bullet Feeder or GSI will do .45acp and .223..
 
You have to buy the conversion for mr bullet feeder, not sure on gsi unit. Conversions are like 150 on mr bullet feeder.
 
I found .223 conversions for Mr. Bullet Feeder.

I'm good to go. I'll be ordering the 1050 in the next week.
 
1050 small Swage rod is trash from Dillon

As a commercial class 06 re-loader the Dillon 1050 is a wonderful machine; however, the 1050 small primer pocket swage rod is cheap cast pot metal/zinc type trash. After processing 100,000's of .223 brass commercially we have gone through a few handfuls of Dillon's swage rods. The swage rod itself is also about .250" to short to get enough thread from the eye bolt going inside it and not cracking and breaking. We have had a machinist/metallurgist make us new small primer pocket swaging rods out of a steel alloy 4130 that he has heat treated the tip and oil hardens it. If anyone would like one of our commercial small primer pocket swage rods that also has a very slightly deeper bevel on the tip, and works every time without breaking please just let us know.

SOS Ammo
 
With a huge response from other loaders, and friends, as well as a few other shooting website posts and Dillon Precision's chief engineer wanting one of our much improved machined, lengthened swag rods we are going to have 50 of them CNC machined, heat and oil treated. These rods will be available from our retail store as well as our eStore in June of 2014.
 
rods will be available after we reach about 30 orders each. Which shouldn't be very hard because of our order of at least 10 of each to re-supply our 20 machines with extras. Another note with our machined swage rod. Is we also made the eye bolt 1/10 th" off center to adjust the off center, to the front of the press to compensate for the rearward "pull" of the cam on the full downward stroke which "flexes" the very bottom 1/2" of the rod against the machine's swage rod keeper creating fatigue and later cracks and future breakages. We are also thinking of making a VERY beefed up swage rod with a 1/2" diameter adding to the MEAT of the bottom of the rod. This will require a bit of filing, or machining in the swage rod keeper to adjust for the larger diameter rod. Both of these.
 
[MENTION=63985]datguy[/MENTION]

FYI, there are a lot of videos on YouTube regarding how to do caliber changes and set up the Dillon machines.
 
As a commercial class 06 re-loader the Dillon 1050 is a wonderful machine; however, the 1050 small primer pocket swage rod is cheap cast pot metal/zinc type trash. After processing 100,000's of .223 brass commercially we have gone through a few handfuls of Dillon's swage rods. The swage rod itself is also about .250" to short to get enough thread from the eye bolt going inside it and not cracking and breaking. We have had a machinist/metallurgist make us new small primer pocket swaging rods out of a steel alloy 4130 that he has heat treated the tip and oil hardens it. If anyone would like one of our commercial small primer pocket swage rods that also has a very slightly deeper bevel on the tip, and works every time without breaking please just let us know.

SOS Ammo

I hadnt noticed any issues with the swaging rod but I see that the backer rod could be improved.

Im loading .223 right now. I prep my brass on a S1050 using a Rapid Trim 1200. I think the size die does leave the necks kind of tight. I dont have a measurement with me but the ID of the case mouth is somewhere in the .221 range.


The backer rod is supposed to expand the mouth of the brass to accept the bullet. The expansion portion of the rod measures in the .27 range. I think that excessive.

I kind of like the tight necks as they come from the RT and Im concerned about screwing with the necks after they have been through an expander ball at station 1 and the RT at station 6 on the prep tool head. The tight necks require that I chamfer/debur (a total pain in the ass) to prevent shaving jacket when I seat bullets.

My backer rods are currently out at a machine shop. Im getting the rod on my prep head turned down to its small diameter (.210) so it will not expand the case unecessarily working the brass before it goes to the RT.

On my loading tool head Im getting the expansion portion of the rod turned down to .2225 which should allow my .2235 HPBT bullets to slide right in while not overworking the brass or requiring more than just a light touch with the crimp die to iron flat.

Reason I decided to run two swage setups - Last week I had a stack of primers go because I changed headstamps and didnt reset the swage. Rather than take apart my my prep tool head the cost of the swage die was cheap insurance to handle those primer crimps that needed a little extra pushback.

To the OP - Use Dillons example of the sectioned case head to set your swage. Get a Dremel with an abrasive wheel and cut the casehead in half so you can see the primer pocket and bottom of the brass. This will allow you to ensure your backer rod is bottomed on the brass and you can see how far into the pocket the swage is protruding. Without sectioning the brass you are setting up by feel. Feel can be screwy because you are getting resistance as the expander moves the case mouth and you are guessing how far the swage is going into the primer pocket.
 
Edit to above - Dont get upset thinking the swage is so sensitive you have to reset for each individual case headstamp. Some crimps will be tighter than others and cause problems. I was having issues with WCC headstamped brass. Good stuff but I found WCC10 is tighter than WCC08.

I set my press up using some LC. With WCC08 I was smearing 3-5 primers out of 100. With WCC10 I set off a primer and decided to get the second swage.

I loaded a mixed headstamp batch of LC and didnt smear one primer. The press ran super smooth.

My problems were of my own creation. Always keep in mind - If something doesnt feel right on the handle pull, clear the shell plate, figure it out, Put your cleared brass back into its place in line ensuring you are not under/overcharging something, than carry on.
 
Bought my first 1050 (small primers) in 2000 to compliment my 550. 6 months later, I bought a 650 to load tons of 45, a week later I sold the 650 POS and bought another 1050 with large primers.
Get the 1050.
 
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I had wanted to get a 1050 but bought a 650 because the Warranty on the 1050 was only a year. Then about 6 months later, I bought a Hornady LNL AP. I regret buying the Hornady and wished I'd bought another 650 (although again, I really wanted/needed a 1050 due to having removed the primer crimp on 20,000+ pcs of brass).

I'd had my doubts about the Hornady from the start (and I know the Hornady fans will want to burn me at the stake) because why would Hornady need to "bribe" you by giving you $225.00+ in bullets for buying a $375.00 press?

And "NO, I won't send anyone the Hornady since I hate it so much!" Although I would sell it if I could get most of my money back on it.

Should I buy another press (doubtful since I'm close to 60 but you never know), it will be a 1050. I'm thinking now, at my age, it will probably outlast me now, LOL!

Just my $0.02 worth.
 
I tossed and turned for a while finally I bought a 1050 and had an anxious wait until it arrived.
I set it up and got it running then after a while added a Mr Bullet feeder I don't know why it took me so long to buy one.
I now have two and love it, I still have a Co-Ax that I use for the odd reloading task or two.

If you're on the fence about buying a 1050 just buy one you'll be glad.
 
I love my XL 650. I've had since the mid 1990s and it's done a BUNCH of 45 acp and quiet a few 223s. I'm fixing to get the stuff to do 308 on it. One thing the 1050 has that I wish was on the 650 is the primer pocket swage station. A friend used to have a 1050 (may still, he moved off and I lost contact with him.) His was dedicated to 45 acp. Commercial brass or military. It just "ate" them all. And they were pretty good rounds. He was shooting 50 feet or less. I sometimes shot mine a bit longer ranges.
 
If you get a GSI bullet feeder for the 45 it includes a billet aluminum tool head that allows you to retain the powder check die and seat then crimp (no other option allows this). The last one I bought was $321-collator, I make my collators from 6" PVC and 1/2" plastic sheet. Said another way the bullet feeder costs $121 more than a bare 1050 tool head alone from Dillon, use the tool head that came with it for .308.

This is a video of one my PLC controlled 9mm 1050.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MrFhnDQ-eUU
 
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jmorris, do you have any details on your collator construction? I'm not afraid of a fabrication project. I'm a controls guy by trade, your press setup is slick! What PLC are you using? I use the automation direct little PLCs at work..
 
Take a look at this thread, Post 9, 20 and 21, for collator construction.
$28 Bullet Feeder for Any Progressive - THR

I am using the Automation direct click PLC and Cmore micro. If you are well versed at the ladder logic they use send me a PM, I have learned what I know from trial and error and would like to expand the system.
 
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Makes for a cool design in the ceiling don't it .!!!:rolleyes:

LOL. I set a tube off a few years back...with my CAT sleeping two feet away on the bench. Poor Winston didn't venture down into the basement for a week. And has not even JUMPED onto the bench since. Much less comfortable to sleep there.

Brings to mind WHY we wear safety glasses too.
 
So f'in excited! S1050 is supposed to be here tomorrow. This was waiting for me when I got home today..
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1406865315.629523.jpg
 
Got the 1050 setup and running. Made a mount out of heavy duty shelf brackets and 3/8" aluminum plate. Very happy with it!
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1407094916.412731.jpg
 
Tested the first loads after work. They were as expected. Now that things are starting to roll, I loaded up a tube of primers and got to pulling the handle. First, Brian Enos is right! Priming on the down stroke is the business. I loaded 100 in a non rushed 5 minutes. I need to adjust the powder funnel down just a tad. Had two bullets fall over in that hundred. All in all very pleased. I'm running it with the bulletfeeder out of the box.