I am new to precision rifle shooting and I am wondering if this is an acceptable 100 yard zero? Should I try to tweak it a little more or am I good as is. I am using a Nightforce ATACR 7-35 on a 6.5 Creedmoor MPA Hybrid Hunter.
Rifle Scopes Acceptable zero on Nightforce ATACR 7-35
- Thread starter Greymount
- Start date
Short answer, yes. Very few of my scopes and loads will zero-out dead-nuts on the bull. Atmospheric changes happen, burn rates vary from lot-to-lot, bullets vary from lot-to-lot, and it can cause slight shifts like that. And sometimes you might be slightly "off" that day, or your eyes might be tired that day, it's just any number of things, but IMO, yes, that's an acceptable zero.
The way I look at it is, if you're only 1/4-1/2" off center, I don't think a deer's heart will know the difference when the bullet turns it into jello moving through it at 1,500+ FPS.
The way I look at it is, if you're only 1/4-1/2" off center, I don't think a deer's heart will know the difference when the bullet turns it into jello moving through it at 1,500+ FPS.
If the center of the group is equal to or more than the value of the minimum adjustment of the optic, then move the zero. If not, then you can't (without going to the other side of the center).
I'd personally move it over .1mil left (or .25moa if using moa). Especially if it's a right hand twist barrel. Even if it pushes it all the way to the exact left side of the center from where you are, you're better off having your zero off to the left on a right hand twist barrel.
I'd personally move it over .1mil left (or .25moa if using moa). Especially if it's a right hand twist barrel. Even if it pushes it all the way to the exact left side of the center from where you are, you're better off having your zero off to the left on a right hand twist barrel.
I'd move it to the left, either .1 mil (.36 inches @ 100 yards) or .25 moa (.25 inches @ 100 yards). Windage is easy to reset turrets. Elevation looks good.
Last edited:
I have been using .34 inches at 100 per .1 mil for a rough number
To clarify for op .1 mil is about .36” or 1/3 of an inch @100 yds.
I would re zero if it were mine
Yep, .1 mil is .36 @ 100 yards (1.0 mil = 3.6 inches) … not enough coffee yesterday
What I do is start a session off with a 3 shot clean cold barrel group followed by a 2nd 3 shot. Then move into whatever I'm practicing that day saving 6 rounds for two more 3 shot groups on a warm fouled bore at the end... and in this case an additional group comparing a new variable, new lot # of varget. I save these results and after I have a 2 or more sessions I have a great representation of 30+ shots to get an average from for any adjustments necessary. I find 3 shot groups to make it easier to define each shot when the gun patterns tight. Also, aim small... those line intersections make great aiming points from about 25x up. If I am in between adjustments on the dial my preference is to be low and/or left. A low miss is easier to see than a high miss that may impact behind the target and out of view from the shooters perspective. And left as outlined by a few replies above.
Attachments
Last edited:
Then there's wind. A 10 MPH wind from 90 degrees off the bullet path is a 0.2 mil offset per my AB this morning. Hence, wind is a factor, even when zeroing at 100yds. So what was the wind !?
After I think I am zeroed, to "confirm" zero, I shoot "dotsNGroups". From a 20rd box, 2 "sighting rds" cold bore. Then 6 x 3 rd groups at 6 different 3/4" dots from 100yds. Forces rebuilding the position for each dot, which is "zeroing me". But if I see a consistent offset, like always right 1 click, for most of the dots, then I go back to the pure zeroing process.
You never get done zeroing yourself - restated - you never get done improving your fundamentals.
Carlos Hathcock zeroing process.
http://m14forum.com/gus-fisher/63019-carlos-hathcock-method-sighting-rifle.html#post400670
After I think I am zeroed, to "confirm" zero, I shoot "dotsNGroups". From a 20rd box, 2 "sighting rds" cold bore. Then 6 x 3 rd groups at 6 different 3/4" dots from 100yds. Forces rebuilding the position for each dot, which is "zeroing me". But if I see a consistent offset, like always right 1 click, for most of the dots, then I go back to the pure zeroing process.
You never get done zeroing yourself - restated - you never get done improving your fundamentals.
Carlos Hathcock zeroing process.
http://m14forum.com/gus-fisher/63019-carlos-hathcock-method-sighting-rifle.html#post400670
Last edited:
