I run the full size Magnus RR on one of my Dashers....It is comically quiet and a nice push of recoil.
I run a full-size Magnus standard end cap currently on my 6gt customs. It is very popular at matchs because its stupid quiet. Recoil is pretty nice when you're running a rig at 25lbs.
I was on the TBAC squad at Coal Canyon this year and got some experience with the Magnus K-RR. I was very impressed and have one on order.
Thought about putting blue loctite when I was torque it down. I guess I should do it next time around and zero again. Now more I appreciate my AX as it’s bonded. And more I envy the MC’s.. Because that #2 screw is also a bitch.
you will like it. S RR is my favorite but K works great on 6.5cm, 6.5prc. I enjoy mine all 3 sizes
Dont listen to @hafejd30 he is horrible with tools, and tricking you in. Small oversight happens. @hk dude has your explanation.
Didn’t you have an AXSR that had a loose action screw and you noticed it when the barrel seemed tilted in the chassis? At like 800 rounds?
I know it’s been mentioned before about loose action screws. I’d hope on a $12,000 rifle they’re torquing the chassis from AI. Otherwise the only explanation is they’re loosening with use. It happens. Other chassis systems like MPA and MDT have had issues as well
I also don’t feel I’m horrible with tools. I’m super anal about my stuff and I’m just speaking from experience and observations from mine and others who have owned several AI platforms.
I know especially with what it takes to access the bolts for the action on the ATX platform at least I wouldn’t want to or be able to check those bolts regularly. You need to remove the bottom half the chassis to do this
Guy rounded out #2 in this thread
AXSR Action screws
Hello All, How are you torquing the #2 action screw? It looks to me that you'd have to use a ball end bit but, wouldn't that make the torque required to meet the spec higher? Saying it another way, do ball end hex bits apply the same force to the screw for a given torque setting on the wrench...
www.snipershide.com
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I’ve had the full size Magnus for a little while but I haven’t used it yet so I tossed it on the 6.5 barrel that came with this thing. It is really quiet, but to me it’s only a tiny bit quieter than the RR version of the same length. The S-RR is probably my favorite as far as all around use.
I got a couple recoil X brakes to try on them, everything I heard was positive so we will see.
So far, I absolutely love this XC…
I got a couple recoil X brakes to try on them, everything I heard was positive so we will see.
So far, I absolutely love this XC…
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at-x from factory, i tq'ed them and never had an issue afterwards.
The hardest part I've had to try and install on these AI's is the dang mag release/catch on the atx. That thing is a bitch. It does seem AI kinda screwed everyone on the unbonded chassis bolt locations. Guess I'm spoiled from either having a bonded AI or 700 pattern rigs in the past.
Need to check them from time to time.
Not clear why AI abandoned the bonded chassis concept.
Looking at how an AT-X chassis is bolted together…I dunno, I’m no engineer but it looks less solid than an AT.
AT-X
AT-XC
AT
Blue arrow is apparently where the front bit of the chassis attaches to the center bit. I believe this is also how the AX is put together (below).
AX
For a non-bonded chassis like the AT-X/C, I guess it makes sense for the action to attach to the front rail so it keeps alignment with thermal/NV etc stuff. But with even six screws holding the action into the rail, there’s only two screws holding that rail/action assembly to the center part of the rifle.
I’m sure it works fine, there’s “stop blocks” of metal that help support the two screws. I’m not an engineer, just wondering what others think.
Edit: and maybe some know why these design changes (including not bonding anymore) were made. Maybe it’s partially down to the armorers and maintenance. Maybe this has already been covered…I have a vague recollection that it has.
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This is a recent 20 shot grouping from my AX at a 100. On a bag, on a tripod. The 308 barrel has just about over 2000 rounds on it. I’ve never ever touch one fastener on my AX. Since I got the rifle brand new back in ‘21. AX is bonded. My AXSR action screw #1 & 3 got loose after 200 rounds. Could it be more recoil from magnum? I just wish the AXSR platform was bonded at least.
If anyone is worried about there atx or axsr not being bonded, DNA firearm systems in NC offers a pin and bed service. I do not know if it works as I know no one who has had it done, just happened to see it on their Instagram one day.
Definitely had the two screws that hold the trigger in place come loose on my AT-X. Blue Loctite became my friend with e'reythang.
Out here living that bonded 308 life
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I’ve got a few questions/concerns I was hoping one or more of you might be able to help me with. Apologies if this isn’t the correct place for this, but figured I might have the best chance of getting accurate answers from people in this thread.
A little background: I bought a brand new AXSR a couple of months back (as well as a 308 bolt and 6.5 creed barrel), and the first time I went to the range, I had two misfires with factory Hornady ELDM ammo. I shot five rounds total, with three of them going off without issue. The two that misfired successfully ignited on a second strike, although the initial firing pin strike looked fine.
At that point, I was concerned about potential headspace issues, so I ordered go/no-go gauges from PTG. I figured the likelihood of a headspace issue was almost zero given that it was a brand new rifle and am certain the barrel was installed and torqued properly per the AXSR manual. The bolt closed on the go-gauge and did not close on the no-go, so I chalked up the misfires to a bad batch of ammo.
This past weekend, I went to the range and shot a few different factory loadings - Berger 144gr LRHT, Hornady 140gr ELDM (from the same lot, but different box, as the aforementioned misfires), and some Federal 140gr Berger HT. I had no misfires, and accuracy seemed great (1/2 MOA or so groups on average), particularly with the Hornady ammo.
Now, looking at the fired brass like a paranoid monkey, I am wondering if there are signs of incipient case head separation for some reason (particularly on the Berger 144 LRHT ammo) or if I’m worried about absolutely nothing and psyching myself out.
Pics (gif/vid link included as well) of the Berger factory load are as follows (including four samples of fired brass in the pics below for each factory load):
Pics of the Hornady factory load are as follows:
Pics of the Federal factory load are as follows:
Am I worrying about nothing, or is there a potential issue here? Could the markings just be a result of a tight chamber? Is this normal for AIs? Should I reach out to Mile High or AI? Again, apologies for the noob questions, but the last thing I want to do is have an unaddressed issue looming in an expensive rifle.
Any input would be much appreciated, and thanks to anyone who takes a look.
A little background: I bought a brand new AXSR a couple of months back (as well as a 308 bolt and 6.5 creed barrel), and the first time I went to the range, I had two misfires with factory Hornady ELDM ammo. I shot five rounds total, with three of them going off without issue. The two that misfired successfully ignited on a second strike, although the initial firing pin strike looked fine.
At that point, I was concerned about potential headspace issues, so I ordered go/no-go gauges from PTG. I figured the likelihood of a headspace issue was almost zero given that it was a brand new rifle and am certain the barrel was installed and torqued properly per the AXSR manual. The bolt closed on the go-gauge and did not close on the no-go, so I chalked up the misfires to a bad batch of ammo.
This past weekend, I went to the range and shot a few different factory loadings - Berger 144gr LRHT, Hornady 140gr ELDM (from the same lot, but different box, as the aforementioned misfires), and some Federal 140gr Berger HT. I had no misfires, and accuracy seemed great (1/2 MOA or so groups on average), particularly with the Hornady ammo.
Now, looking at the fired brass like a paranoid monkey, I am wondering if there are signs of incipient case head separation for some reason (particularly on the Berger 144 LRHT ammo) or if I’m worried about absolutely nothing and psyching myself out.
Pics (gif/vid link included as well) of the Berger factory load are as follows (including four samples of fired brass in the pics below for each factory load):
Pics of the Hornady factory load are as follows:
Pics of the Federal factory load are as follows:
Am I worrying about nothing, or is there a potential issue here? Could the markings just be a result of a tight chamber? Is this normal for AIs? Should I reach out to Mile High or AI? Again, apologies for the noob questions, but the last thing I want to do is have an unaddressed issue looming in an expensive rifle.
Any input would be much appreciated, and thanks to anyone who takes a look.
Base of the Hornady looks to have some ejector swipe marks but the others look fine unless I’m totally missing what you’re referring to.
I just bought a 300 PRC setup for my AXMC. Hornady 225-grain ELDM requires a heavy bolt lift force and produces ejector swipes. Berger 215 grain runs like butter.
Hornady uses Hornady brass
Berger uses Lapua Brass
Hornady is $44 per box
Berger is $75 per box
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Thanks. I was moreso referring to the shinier/different color ring near the case head. Here are a few more pictures of the Berger 144 LRHT factory load. A bit difficult to get the right lighting but maybe these will help.
Thanks for the feedback. I’ve read AIs typically have pretty tight chambers - is that generally correct? Combined with the 60 degree throw (versus trad 90), does this contribute to stiffer bolt closing and opening than one might experience otherwise? I didn’t seem to notice any extreme difficulty with either open or close, but it’s noticeably tighter than other bolt guns I have.
Thanks again for the comments. I just want to make sure nothing bad is going to happen here haha.
The issue that occurs is a tolerance issue—a chamber at the minimum and brass at the maximum. I also believe that the Hornady brass is softer. The action runs like butter with the right ammo. The 300 PRC is a Hornady-developed round. Maybe that has something to do with it as well.
My AXMC shoots 338 LM from many manufacturers, and I didn't have this issue.
