Add weight to KRG Bravo; over 8lbs pretty easy

wesc

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So, perhaps like others, I got a KRG as an entry level chassis to shoot long range matches. I didn’t want to dump a bunch of money into it and then find that long range/prs wasn’t my thing.
Also, perhaps like others, I still haven’t shot a match but I’ve shot a fair bit with the setup—ARC nucleus, rock creek heavy Palma chambered in 6cm by Stumpy’s Custom Guns in NC, mated together with a switchlug, sitting in a krg bravo with a leupold lrp on top.
I enjoy it and I’m planning to shoot my first match at Altus this fall after moving to the area.
All that said, I also found that running a can (which I much prefer to a brake) I was having a tough time spotting shots.
The only place to add weight outside of a rebarrel/bags/bipod was the stock.
I looked at buying another stock/chassis but having not shot a match I just wasn’t sure I wanted to dedicate the cash. More room for bullets/practice and bourbon.
I did a little research and for <$300 I brought the bravo from 3.2lbs (on my home scale) to 8.2lbs. Best of all, if I want to upgrade eventually I haven’t really permanently altered anything so I can sell it all down the line to fund a different stock. If you haven’t bought a stock or chassis yet and you want one in the 8lb range this probably isn’t for you, but if you’ve got a bravo and you’re moving in a step-wise fashion this may be of use to you.

You’ll need the following:
Raven rock 1lb forend weight $85; 16oz
Available via Facebook/email; if you’re hesitant about stuff like that, so was I. Don’t be. Dustin was prompt, transparent, and friendly. He seems to be good people. pretty good review here:

Area 419 weighted arca rail with all 5 weights $185; 23.5oz

Krg flat bag rider $11; 1.8oz

A bag of #9 lead shot. $50 (but you won’t use most of it and it has many uses—so I’m cheating a bit here on price-you’ll use about $5 of it)


How to do it:
1. Take apart forend of the krg bravo (8 screws plus front action screw-don’t forget that little bastard)
2. Install the arca rail onto the bravo polymer forend sleeve. You’ll notice that only 4 mlok screws/nuts line up with the arca slots on the area 419 rail. Don’t worry, it works well. Also, don’t worry if you think I’ve got steps backwards—this will be coming back apart.
3. One the arca is mated to the bravo polymer forend, using a Dremel with a 426 reinforced cutoff wheel, saw off the exposed screws in the polymer sleeve. Saw them off right at the mlok nut. NOTE: don’t use a 1.5” cutoff wheel. The polymer sleeve isn’t wide enough. NOTE: you’ll probably chew the plastic sleeve up a bit. It’ll live. You can buy another one if you want to ($90 from KRG)
4. Disassemble this assembly
5. Place raven rock brass weight in only place it will fit (spaced by screw holes and recoil lug slot) within the bravo aluminum backbone.
6. Sit 4 m-lok nuts the only places they’ll fit on the raven rock brass weight (only place they’ll fit and still allow the arca rail to be installed-they should be able to move slightly even after you screw the polymer sleeve on for final adjustment)
7. Replace front action screw. DONT FORGET THIS STEP-you can but you’ll have to disassemble/reassemble to put it in later to connect your action-ask me how I know....
8. Place polymer sleeve over these and make sure the nuts line up in the mlok slots
9. Screw original “polymer forend to aluminum backbone” screws back into polymer sleeve and through brass block into aluminum bravo backbone
10. Using the screws you cut off, screw the arca rail into the mlok nuts that you previously positioned
FOREND DONE
11. Install krg flat bag rider per krg instructions NOTE: do this before putting shot in the butt of your stock or it’ll pour out the two holes in the base...everywhere...absolutely everywhere
12. Remove the recoil pad/spacers.
13. Pour as much shot as you can into the butt of the stock. I used an old plastic lemon juice bottle to direct it into the various chambers. Don’t try to pour it out of the bag...ask me how I know...everywhere
14. Reinstall the recoil pad/spacers

Voila!

you now have a stock that weighs ~8lbs helping to absorb recoil and improve shot spotting. you also now have an arca rail.

I use the two included plastic spacers, the included qd sling cup, and an mlok qd sling cup (installed in the front, forward, right, mlok slot) at baseline. With the above changes my bravo went from 3.2 with those to 8.2 lbs. the expensive stuff above weighs about 2.5lbs meaning I added about 2.5lbs of shot.

I have no idea if this works with the various optional butt assemblies with quick adjustment. If you know, p

Ways to add more weight:
-krg sells weighted spacers; 0.66lbs apiece
-you can add shot to the middle of the butt of the stock and the grip too. Be careful, the grip section isn’t #9 shot proof. It sneaks out at the “snap”...everywhere. You could put it in a plastic bag or a condom and stick it in there
-there’s probably other ways. Post if you know how

I hope this helps someone!
 
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6.5SH

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Are you trying to shoot free recoil that you needed so much weight even with a brake and a 6mm?

The reason I ask, is I'm contemplating trying PRS type matches with a old Rem 700 PSS in .308 that I put into a Bravo. It is not threaded so no brake or can, so adding weight is relevant to my interests.
 

wesc

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No, before the above updates, the gun weighed ~15lbs with a suppressor and a bipod. Had a tough time spotting shots due to recoil.

Ive got an apa little bastard and can spot shots fine with that installed instead of the can.

However, when I shoot with the can, I can’t keep it on target while free recoiling.

hopefully this extra 5lbs will keep me a little closer. If not, with spacers and more shot, I think I can get another 3-5lbs and try again.

I really like cans...I need to get over that
 
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Covertnoob5

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    Are you trying to shoot free recoil that you needed so much weight even with a brake and a 6mm?

    The reason I ask, is I'm contemplating trying PRS type matches with a old Rem 700 PSS in .308 that I put into a Bravo. It is not threaded so no brake or can, so adding weight is relevant to my interests.
    Because spotting your shots is such a huge part of the PRS game weight is always your friend. Especially if you’re gonna shoot a 308 without a brake. It’s not prone that’s the problem, it’s off a wobbly barricade that’s the hard part.
     

    Anonymoose

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    Interesting post, thanks for the info! I have a Bravo arriving today and thought about ways to add weight if needed. I'm most interested in the brass forend weight and the lead shot in the butt. I'll be running the adjustable recoil pad thingy but I'm sure there wouldbe a way to seal it off it it isn't.

    I'm chambered in 6.5CM and running a brake on my Bergara BMP. I can spot my shots with this setup and stock chassis. I got the Bravo because I just can't achieve a comfortable thumb position with the stock chassis. It's a shame because its pretty nice for a factory chassis.
     

    408w

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    I will have to weight mine tonight. It is heavy. Used lead Stick-on wheel weights From harboring freight carefully packed into the butt stock and inside the grip compartment. Have a custom steel arca rail and steel bar in the forend. Cost was maybe $75 for all of it.
     

    CK1.0

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    It's not hard to add weight to a Bravo, just takes money lol! One can get one to the 18-22lb range fairly easily, it's just that some might not be ready for what the steel weights cost for their "budget chassis" lol.

    I have the KRG internal t-slot weight (.75lbs), 3 of the Snyder Precision buttstock LOP weights/spacers (.65lbs each), and a pair of the MDT m-lok weights (.78lbs)...
     

    Anonymoose

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    It's not hard to add weight to a Bravo, just takes money lol! One can get one to the 18-22lb range fairly easily, it's just that some might not be ready for what the steel weights cost for their "budget chassis" lol.

    I have the KRG internal t-slot weight (.75lbs), 3 of the Snyder Precision buttstock LOP weights/spacers (.65lbs each), and a pair of the MDT m-lok weights (.78lbs)...
    Those LOP weights aren't too expensive. The M-Lok weights are. I'll have to see where my LOP ends up with my Bravo. If I have at least 2 of those spacers I'll invest. Probably the LOP spacers, the KRG T-Slot spacer, and some shot in the buttstock will do me.
     

    CK1.0

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    Those LOP weights aren't too expensive. The M-Lok weights are. I'll have to see where my LOP ends up with my Bravo. If I have at least 2 of those spacers I'll invest. Probably the LOP spacers, the KRG T-Slot spacer, and some shot in the buttstock will do me.

    FWIW, I doubt you’d need any more weight in the rear than a couple LOP/spacer weights provide.

    The thing with the Bravo chassis is that even with spending a couple hundred bucks on weights for them (give or take), they're still a relatively good deal IMO. They just aren't "all that" as they come unless someone is ok with a rifle on the lighter side. Though, to me, that's part of the beauty of a chassis: add things as needs arise and as one can afford.

    I think a lot of rifle/chassis snobs sleep on the Bravo maybe because of it being affordable and how it comes in stock form, but with some weights and gadgets added to suit one's needs, it can do more than many stocks/chassis' out there that cost 3-4 times as much.

    Even if one was going to pony up up for an MDT ACC or MPA over a Bravo, most are probably still going to have to spend some loot on extras as far as weights and stuff in a lot of cases in order to get them to where most want them. Using the ACC as an example: in my case an ACC would cost more like $1700 than the $1000 it is stock in order to get it to where it'd be how I'd want it...
     
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    Anonymoose

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    FWIW, I doubt you’d need any more weight in the rear than a couple LOP/spacer weights provide.

    The thing with the Bravo chassis is that even with spending a couple hundred bucks on weights for them (give or take), they're still a relatively good deal IMO. They just aren't "all that" as they come unless someone is ok with a rifle on the lighter side. Though, to me, that's part of the beauty of a chassis: add things as needs arise and as one can afford.

    I think a lot of rifle/chassis snobs sleep on the Bravo maybe because of it being affordable and how it comes in stock form, but with some weights and gadgets added to suit one's needs, it can do more than many stocks/chassis' out there that cost 3-4 times as much.

    Even if one was going to pony up up for an MDT ACC or MPA over a Bravo, most are probably still going to have to spend some loot on extras as far as weights and stuff in a lot of cases in order to get them to where most want them. Using the ACC as an example: in my case an ACC would cost more like $1700 than the $1000 it is stock in order to get it to where it'd be how I'd want it...
    Agreed, especially since I just received my Bravo and installed my B-14 into it right away. Holy crap this thing is comfortable and natural feeling. My trigger hand falls perfectly into place and my trigger finger is perfectly aligned without even thinking about it.
    I installed the adjustable height/angle buttpad piece and it doesn't look like I'll need the LOP spacers. Bummer because that would be the easiest way to add weight. Just filling the butt of the stock with shot isn't an option now either due to the shot interfering with the adjustment wheel. I'll have to get creative...
     

    Tritiumdials

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    Agreed, especially since I just received my Bravo and installed my B-14 into it right away. Holy crap this thing is comfortable and natural feeling. My trigger hand falls perfectly into place and my trigger finger is perfectly aligned without even thinking about it.
    I installed the adjustable height/angle buttpad piece and it doesn't look like I'll need the LOP spacers. Bummer because that would be the easiest way to add weight. Just filling the butt of the stock with shot isn't an option now either due to the shot interfering with the adjustment wheel. I'll have to get creative...
    With the B14-R, I don't understand why you'd want to add more weight in the Bravo's rear. I have the KRG .75 lb backbone weight and arca rail installed and it's barely balancing forward of the magazine due to the short 18" barrel. A Vortex Strike Eagle 5-25 with Badger rings are installed for context.

    Unless you just want all weight and without worrying about overall balance, disregard..
     

    Anonymoose

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    With the B14-R, I don't understand why you'd want to add more weight in the Bravo's rear. I have the KRG .75 lb backbone weight and arca rail installed and it's barely balancing forward of the magazine due to the short 18" barrel. A Vortex Strike Eagle 5-25 with Badger rings are installed for context.

    Unless you just want all weight and without worrying about overall balance, disregard..
    I have a 6.5CM B-14 action donated by a BMP. The balance point is about 4-5" forward of the barricade stop on the magwell. So I won't need to add much weight to the rear. More will be needed in the back when I add the t-slot weight, ARCA rail and spigot I'm sure.
    I'm going to shoot it stock first to see how it feels then start adding weight paying attention to balance as I go.
     

    Tritiumdials

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    I have a 6.5CM B-14 action donated by a BMP. The balance point is about 4-5" forward of the barricade stop on the magwell. So I won't need to add much weight to the rear. More will be needed in the back when I add the t-slot weight, ARCA rail and spigot I'm sure.
    I'm going to shoot it stock first to see how it feels then start adding weight paying attention to balance as I go.
    Ah, I could’ve sworn I read B-14*R* before. Anyways, a Tikka with a 24” barrel, NV backbone cap, Arca rail and spigot, TBAC bipod barely balances with a Bravo and aluminum tool-less butt pad adjustment with zero spacers. Still tough to imagine adding more weight to the rear unless you have a honkin’ 26” > M24 profile barrel up front.
     

    CK1.0

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    I have a 6.5CM B-14 action donated by a BMP. The balance point is about 4-5" forward of the barricade stop on the magwell. So I won't need to add much weight to the rear. More will be needed in the back when I add the t-slot weight, ARCA rail and spigot I'm sure.
    I'm going to shoot it stock first to see how it feels then start adding weight paying attention to balance as I go.

    Your balance-point forward of the magwell sounds good... I'd bet you'll be pretty happy with just the t-slot weight, and maybe add a pair of mlok weights if you still want a little more heft. The arca rail and spigot are aluminum and don't really change the balance a whole lot, I wouldn't worry about those throwing it out of whack.
     
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    CK1.0

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    As an aside, I noticed that KRG makes a few different forends that fit the Bravo, including their Minimalist Forend which is just about the same as stock minus m-lok cutouts...

    What would really be cool is: if KRG were to come up with another forend for theBravo/Whiskey/X-Ray that beefed up the polymer along the top of the forend and then added 2-3 more pairs of m-lok cutouts for adding more m-lok weights... they'd probably sell a bunch of them and could probably start making their own m-lok weights too... I'm surprised they aren't already doing it.
     
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    Anonymoose

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    Anyone running the ARCA aluminum forend? I just ordered one, curious on opinions. It weighs 19oz more than the poly and still leaves room for the T-Slot weight should I want to add more.

    I know people are adding weight to the empty areas in the rear of the bravo I want the gun to balance perfectly a few inches in front of the magwell against a barrier stop and it seem you can't add too much weight to the back and still achieve this without adding even more to the front. I don't want a gun that's too heavy but I would like it to feel "dead" i.e. not hollow. I wonder about adding expanding poly foam to the hollow areas to achieve this...
     

    catalyst81

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    I was able to add 6 lbs adding lead shot to the grip and butt cavities and lead decoys in the foreend. Cost me $38 total. I know someone on the Hide was making steel arca rails that added a good bit of weight as well.
     
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    408w

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    With a 24” mtu contour barrel mine needed the weight in the rear. Filling it with lead balanced it out perfect. Weights 18 lbs
     

    Anonymoose

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    With a 24” mtu contour barrel mine needed the weight in the rear. Filling it with lead balanced it out perfect. Weights 18 lbs
    She's a healthy girl! Makes sense to add weight in the back with that heavy barrel.
     
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    srt-4_uk

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    Anyone running the ARCA aluminum forend? I just ordered one, curious on opinions. It weighs 19oz more than the poly and still leaves room for the T-Slot weight should I want to add more.
    I do. I run the enclosed forend w/ rail on one and aluminum arca on another. The weight is almost exactly the same between the two. The difference is the enclosed doesn't allow the t slot weight but it's longer. Works perfect with my M24 profile 6BR.
    I wish they didn't drill out all the holes in the aluminum rail. It needs more weight to balance my B14R. I skipped the t slot weight and filled the cavity with lead shot and plastidip to hold it together. Gained over a pound and cost me some free time.
     

    Anonymoose

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    I do. I run the enclosed forend w/ rail on one and aluminum arca on another. The weight is almost exactly the same between the two. The difference is the enclosed doesn't allow the t slot weight but it's longer. Works perfect with my M24 profile 6BR.
    I wish they didn't drill out all the holes in the aluminum rail. It needs more weight to balance my B14R. I skipped the t slot weight and filled the cavity with lead shot and plastidip to hold it together. Gained over a pound and cost me some free time.
    Nice. I just installed the arca aluminum forend. The rifle now weighs 14lbs on the nose unloaded and balances well. I'm going to shoot it like this and see if I want to add weight. If I do next step will be the t-slot weight and perhaps filling the grip with shot and plastidip for balance if needed. I do need to add a barricade stop and will probably go with the Area 419. It won't add weight but it looks like the best option.
     

    Triggerf16

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    I used Duct Seal to add weight and help damp vibration. You could add lead shot to the duct seal to make it heavier as desired. I also added the duct seal to parts of used plastic grocery bags , so the putty can be pushed into the various Bravo compartments and removed later if desired. I added Duct Seal to the grip compartment, the underside of the buttstock, and inside the recoil pad compartment. Added another block to the fore end on the bottom of the aluminum chassis, sandwiched above the fore end. Total added was well over a pound. Lowe’s sells 5lb blocks for $7. Less vibration and no ringing during dry fire.
     
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    Anonymoose

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    I used Duct Seal to add weight and help damp vibration. You could add lead shot to the duct seal to make it heavier as desired. I also added the duct seal to parts of used plastic grocery bags , so the putty can be pushed into the various Bravo compartments and removed later if desired. I added Duct Seal to the grip compartment, the underside of the buttstock, and inside the recoil pad compartment. Added another block to the fore end on the bottom of the aluminum chassis, sandwiched above the fore end. Total added was well over a pound. Lowe’s sells 5lb blocks for $7. Less vibration and no ringing during dry fire.
    This is exactly what I'm looking to do. At this point I don't want to add too much weight to the rear because it will throw off my balance. The grip area and that space under the cheek rest to start and maybe poly foam in the back end would dampen vibrations well enough. I like the grocery bag idea as well.
     

    srt-4_uk

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    Does it balance where you want it?
    Do you have a brake and are able to spot your impacts?

    If either are no, then weight helps.