Ive been playing with a savage 10 I picked up a year or so ago. I have been playing around with the loads and it is shooting extremely well at 100 yards(I haven't had it anywhere to shoot longer yet). My problem is that the thing jumps like crazy every shot. It doesn't matter if I am shooting off of a table or laying down, you have to pick the front up and move it back to get on target(shooting from a bipod). I dont want to sink a ton of money in to it because I am working on an AR10 build as well. Anyway I pulled the barrel off today so I can thread it for a muzzle brake. Im looking at a Precision Armament M11. Anyone have experience with this brake on a 308? Anyone have any suggestions for something better in this price range? I dont want to lose any accuracy but I would really like to get this thing to stay planted for follow up shots. Thanks in advance for any help or input
adding a muzzle brake but not sure which one
- Thread starter JimmeT
- Start date
I have 2 APA Gen 2 Lil B*stard's. They have been good brakes.
I also have a Area 419 brake on order. Looking forward to trying it.
Either of those are good options and they are easy to install.
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I also have a Area 419 brake on order. Looking forward to trying it.
Either of those are good options and they are easy to install.
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MPA has a good brake
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I'm not sure of anything really. Lol. I've tried different loads on the bipod and different positions. Tried pulling it tighter to my shoulder. Not as tight to my shoulder. About everything I could think of. It is a Harris bipod but I use them on all my rifles. This is the only rifle I have that does this.
Thats mpa is nice looking. I'll check them out. I looked at the Lil bastards but I can't remember why I kept looking. Thanks for the input so far
Thats mpa is nice looking. I'll check them out. I looked at the Lil bastards but I can't remember why I kept looking. Thanks for the input so far
Look up proper positioning techniques and bipod loading. A brake will reduce felt recoil but will not control hop. The Harris has a tough time on smooth surfaces. Some spikes will help with preload. I shoot three different brakes on three different guns. I can't tell the performance difference between them, but for pure aesthetics...Area 419 Hellfire!
I went with the Impact Precision brake, SUPER easy to install. Just screw it on, straighten it up, then tighten the clamp screw down. I think it looks cool too, I like the look of the "boxy" brakes.
Same price tag ($100 ish) and gets great reviews. When it comes to brakes, I don't really notice too much of a difference between them so long as they're of quality, and all of the ones mentioned are good to go! Honestly at this point... I just go for the one that looks cool to me and doesn't cost an arm and a leg. Ease of installation is also a big plus for me.
Same price tag ($100 ish) and gets great reviews. When it comes to brakes, I don't really notice too much of a difference between them so long as they're of quality, and all of the ones mentioned are good to go! Honestly at this point... I just go for the one that looks cool to me and doesn't cost an arm and a leg. Ease of installation is also a big plus for me.
Patriot Valley's Mad Scientist brake is the best one I've used to date. Easy to install, and recoil pulse is outstanding. Harris bipod on a bench.
https://www.instagram.com/p/BOqCg0cAHfG/
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https://www.instagram.com/p/BOqCg0cAHfG/
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I don't want to derail the topic, but I have to agree. With my 5r (308 with no brake) if I load the bipod properly, and have good form, I can see my own splashes at 300 yards. When I get my form wrong, I am way off and see nothing of the impacts. You may be able to save your money, or who am I kidding, you may be able to buy something else shooting related with it
Do yourself a favor and look at the Witt Machine clamp on muzzle brake. It works, easy on and requires no threading of the barrel. If you can do the barrel threading yourself, then you are OK, but if not, do the math for the threading/postage to and back/insurance/brake. You might find that it comes to like S300-$400 instead of the $90 odd dollars for the Witt.
http://wittmachine.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=180
http://wittmachine.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=180
I put a lil bastard on my .260. Does a great job but very noisy. I like running a suppressor but had never tried a brake. Does a better job of managing recoil but at the price of being very loud. Not so bad behind the gun but everyone else suffers.
I have the FCP-SR and mine does the same thing as far as hop goes. always up and to the left. i have had several people look at my form and say it is correct. I wonder if it is the POS accu stock it is in? that thing sucks but it can shoot for sure even though it goes all over the place.
I've had great luck using stuff from Muzzle Brakes & More.I got their 4 port one piece shipped in the white for $77. Owner told me the 4th port is really just for looks and the carbon left behind backs that up. But it's what I wanted. Smith blended it to the barrel and it looks as nice as it shoots!
Costs are less than those mentioned and they make the claim they are better than some of the others. I just know they work for me. Got mine for
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This ^^^^^^^^^^ ! I have one also, best dollar value item I've ever spent shooting related. They're built to order , by a hide member, with a very quick time frame .
Silencerco asr brake. Because then you can mount your new silencer on it. (Replace with thunder beast cb brake or whatever etc)
Thank you all for the input. I really like the looks of that mpa brake. I called them but didn't get an answer so I went with the m11. I ordered it before I seen all these replies. The gentleman who answered the phone was very nice and said it would be to my door in 2 days(so it should arrive tomorrow). I'll give an update as soon as I can then a range report as soon as I can as well. Not sure if anyone is interested in that or not but I'll do it anyway. Thanks again for the info
A brake is unlikely to change your experience. If it's hopping without the brake it will hop with it, maybe just slightly less so.
Either the stock and rifle don't fit you or you need more practice behind the gun. It's probably an NPA issue.
Either the stock and rifle don't fit you or you need more practice behind the gun. It's probably an NPA issue.
For a muzzle brake to be at all effective, the gas must be released behind the bullet. Behind the bullet. I repeat this for effect.
Recoil has two phases; that which is caused by bullet travel within the bore, and that which is similar to rocket thrust after the bullet emerges.
The brake can only go to work after the bullet is gone, The rifle will still jump to whatever degree the first phase imposes; the rifle will jump less, but the effect on the target should not be any different because the bullet was on its way before the brake would, or could, alter the rifle's behavior. .
I find that my experiences with muzzle climb have all been most relative to stock design, notably the position of the butt pad, and the position of the shoulder in contract behind it. The lower the shoulder is in contact below the bore axis, the more pronounced will be the muzzle rise.
Get the shoulder as high on the butt pad as you can, then see what effect this has on muzzle rise.
There Is a way to anchor the bipod to the supporting surface. It involves putting the upper body's weight to work.
Place a sling under the rifle, anchored fore and aft, in addition to the bipod. Pass the other arm (left if you are a righty) between the rifle and the sling, and adjust the sling so that in the prone position, the elbow is supported just barely clear of the supporting surface, grasping and guiding the butt to aim with that hand.
This way, when the rifle recoils, the upper body's weight acts against muzzle climb.
Now I realize that you have already mounted the brake and are happy with the results. But muzzle brakes are not permitted in NRA sanctioned competitive events.
This second approach that I'm suggesting is permitted, and may be especially helpful to folks who compete in NRA competitions. I have used this technique in 1000yd F Class, and can watch the bullet's trace during the later part of the trajectory, as the bullet cruises back on down and into the target.
Greg
Recoil has two phases; that which is caused by bullet travel within the bore, and that which is similar to rocket thrust after the bullet emerges.
The brake can only go to work after the bullet is gone, The rifle will still jump to whatever degree the first phase imposes; the rifle will jump less, but the effect on the target should not be any different because the bullet was on its way before the brake would, or could, alter the rifle's behavior. .
I find that my experiences with muzzle climb have all been most relative to stock design, notably the position of the butt pad, and the position of the shoulder in contract behind it. The lower the shoulder is in contact below the bore axis, the more pronounced will be the muzzle rise.
Get the shoulder as high on the butt pad as you can, then see what effect this has on muzzle rise.
There Is a way to anchor the bipod to the supporting surface. It involves putting the upper body's weight to work.
Place a sling under the rifle, anchored fore and aft, in addition to the bipod. Pass the other arm (left if you are a righty) between the rifle and the sling, and adjust the sling so that in the prone position, the elbow is supported just barely clear of the supporting surface, grasping and guiding the butt to aim with that hand.
This way, when the rifle recoils, the upper body's weight acts against muzzle climb.
Now I realize that you have already mounted the brake and are happy with the results. But muzzle brakes are not permitted in NRA sanctioned competitive events.
This second approach that I'm suggesting is permitted, and may be especially helpful to folks who compete in NRA competitions. I have used this technique in 1000yd F Class, and can watch the bullet's trace during the later part of the trajectory, as the bullet cruises back on down and into the target.
Greg
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