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Advice on equipment to start reloading

Hogg0494

Old hunter
Supporter
Full Member
Minuteman
Oct 26, 2018
496
83
Upstate new york
Hi all,after years of saying I will reload next year,next year finally came(12 years later)need some advice on the press,scale,dies and tumbler to buy.this will be used mostly for 6.5 Creedmoor and some 30-06,budget for the press,scale,dies & tumbler is around $1k.I know I will have to spend a few more coins on some loose pieces.my online research leans are below but advice is more than welcome & appreciated
Presses
RCBS rock chucker supreme $175
Redding T-7 $300

Scale RCBS chargemaster 1500 combo $300(on sale)

Tumbler
Franklin arsenal wet tumbler $150
Heard wet gives alot less dust

Dies
Hornady???
 
Everything you list is quality. The wet Vs dry tumbling has some controversy and strong opinions though.
FWIW I dry tumble, I don't think the peening damage is worth the extra shine.
Hornady dies are fine but take a look at Mighty Armory.
 
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Get yourself a hornady headspace gauge kit or equivalent, bullet comparator and dial calipers so you can measure casehead to shoulder datum length and jam length. These are needed to correctly set up your sizing and seating dies, respectively

A case length gauge is also helpful for determining if you need to trim. Also a trimmer and bullet puller (Hornady Cam Lock is what I use, it’s set up in a Lee Challenger press).

Also, I use a wet tumbler (Thumler’s Tumbler) without the stainless steel rod media. Gets things spit shine clean and zero dust but you have to let the cases dry out.

Dies: I’d gets Forster Micrometer Seater for bullet seating. Sizing dies are your choice.

There’s tons of other shit but that should get you started for now.
 
Same in regards to the comparators and other equipment above

I have a RCBS Rockchucker Supreme, Chargemaster 1500 combo, Dry tumble with media.

My go to dies are Lee collet, Redding and forester.

When first starting out I bought a “kit” which came with rcbs everything and was a very good starting point for me

The rabbit hole is deep
 
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I would add a Sinclair Overall Length tool to your list.
Hornady makes one, but you have too have a modified case for each caliber you are reloading.
Sinclair’s tool works for just about every caliber on the planet with no further expenses.
I will second the Hornady comparator tool.
 
Can’t go wrong starting out with a good single stage press. They never wear out and have multiple uses in reloading and case forming/preparation besides just putting powder and bullets in cases.

If not already mentioned, get a set of scale weights. Never seen a scale that was perfect, never seen a set of scale weights that wasn’t (perfect)
 
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Can’t go wrong starting out with a good single stage press. They never wear out and have multiple uses in reloading and case forming/preparation besides just putting powder and bullets in cases.

If not already mentioned, get a set of scale weights. Never seen a scale that was perfect, never seen a set of scale weights that wasn’t (perfect)
That 1500 comes with scale weights. I calibrate mine before every use
 
I would take a good look at a Forster press and dies personally, I have been using them for single stage - .308, 5.56 & 6.8SPC and have been very happy with the results.
 
At the current status of stocks for reloading equipments and components. IMO, I say start with shopping for components first. Primers, powder, brass, and bullets. Get a good reloading book first. So you know what components to buy for your calibers. Or post it on this forums. I know, normally is get your reloading equipment first then components. But these things are hard to get now.
 
Ok. So heres my list so far for equipment,please let me know if I missed something or doubled up
Press
Scale
Dies
Neck sizer
Deburing tool
Tumbler & media
Caliper gauge
weight check set
Stuck case remover
Hornady Headspace kit
Hornady comparator tool.
Sinclair Overall Length tool
 
Ok. So heres my list so far for equipment,please let me know if I missed something or doubled up
Press
Scale
Dies
Neck sizer
Deburing tool
Tumbler & media
Caliper gauge
weight check set
Stuck case remover
Hornady Headspace kit
Hornady comparator tool.
Sinclair Overall Length tool

Hornady cam lock bullet puller and collets for your calibers.
 
I’ve got an unused 30-06 Mighty Armory Gold Match Full-Length Sizing die at a discounted price in the For Sale section :)
 
I have never needed a stuck case remover fwiw

do you have loading blocks, powder funnels, and ammo containers?

case lube?
 
I have never needed a stuck case remover fwiw

do you have loading blocks, powder funnels, and ammo containers?

case lube?
 
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Ok. So heres my list so far for equipment,please let me know if I missed something or doubled up
Press
Scale
Dies
Neck sizer
Deburing tool
Tumbler & media
Caliper gauge
weight check set
Stuck case remover
Hornady Headspace kit
Hornady comparator tool.
Sinclair Overall Length tool
I wouldn’t neck size only full length. Might wanna get a case trimmer too. One that’s a Tri way trimmer to save you steps.
 
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Advise on a trimmer kriller134?
What do you mean only full length?

You don’t need a neck sizing die, you should be using a full length resizing die which will also size the neck.
 
* Loading blocks
* Funnels
* Cartridge cases (boxes to hold completed cartridges)
* Lube
* Case prep (trim, chamfer, debur)
* Primer pocket cleaner
* Priming tool (Forster Coax has one that's a part of the press, for example, don't know about other presses, so maybe a handheld model like the RCBS, for example)
* Bullet puller (there's the "hammer" style or a press-based die style)

Neck sizing is a topic of debate. I am anti. Only full length and bump shoulder. Another debate is brass cleaning. I like having some carbon inside the neck for "lube", so I don't wet tumble with pins.

The way I process my brass has me depriming separate from sizing, so I have a Lee universal depriming die.

Consumables are difficult to acquire at this point. To a lesser degree so are tools and equipment.
 
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A lot of good advise in this thread.

I have 3 presses for rifle rounds in my house, I wish I also had a Lyman or t7 turret.

One brand of dies I will never buy again is Hornady but I do use some of thier tools.

Also the Hornady powder dispenser didn't last long but made it past thier warranty period, never again on that.
 
Putting a big list together here. Lol
Advice on dies?I would think non bushing dies are how I want to go to start,I am leaning Redding but there are alot choices,I am guessing I need 2 dies?
 
Getting confused on the dies,looking at RCBS,Lee,Forster,I see there are alot of 6.5 creedmoor options,ranging from $40-$250,can you guys let me know which(non bushing)dies are best bang for the money.please supply part numbers as I see each company has multiple options for the same caliber.thanks all
 
Getting confused on the dies,looking at RCBS,Lee,Forster,I see there are alot of 6.5 creedmoor options,ranging from $40-$250,can you guys let me know which(non bushing)dies are best bang for the money.please supply part numbers as I see each company has multiple options for the same caliber.thanks all
Why are you set on non bushing dies?

Some of the best ammo I load is on a Lee collet neck die, Redding body die and Redding or forester competition seater

My newer setup for my 284 and 300 PRC are Redding type S bushing die, 21 st century turning mandrel and Redding competition seater
 
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Reloading manual...Horn. , Nosler ,Lyman ECT
Im a fan of Glen Zediker( sp) books , I recommend buying and reading before making equipment / tool purchases.
Lee decapping die or other ,as mentioned above. So when you go to measure fired headspace the primer isn't effecting your readings and have you chasing your tail.
If you get a Rock Chucker press, do away if the spring clip that holds the shell holder and replace with an o ring that will fit in the groove. You want the shell holder to float.
Some sort of data book ,to keep up with what you've done.
 
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Do a Word format or Excell format data sheet template.

Each time you change bullet, brass or powder that's a new sheet in a 3 ring binder. Leave room for notes on gun and performance.

For each caliber I print the saami spec for a reference. I put them in a sheet protecter for a separator.

You will find yourself loading more calibers as you start enjoying it.

This is still in work but gets the job done.

1628775145267856526018859201820.jpg


Each time I make a small change I scribble it in red pen on my printed sheet till I have time to type it in.
 
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A Dillon 550 and a RCBS Rockchucker.
Little crow case trimmer, very fast and efficient.
 
What are people using for chamfer process/tools if you go with the little crow case trimmer?
 
Lyman tools in a strait screw driver.


They sell a kit that fits inside the handle but need to get uniformer separate and a primer pocket gauge is handy.
20210724_155652.jpg
un
 
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Getting confused on the dies,looking at RCBS,Lee,Forster,I see there are alot of 6.5 creedmoor options,ranging from $40-$250,can you guys let me know which(non bushing)dies are best bang for the money.please supply part numbers as I see each company has multiple options for the same caliber.thanks all
For standard FL sizing dies I don't think you can beat the Lee 4 die sets. They make quality ammo and are a great value. I have lots of RCBS dies also that came from my Dad as well as some Lymans's. They all seem to work just fine for general reloading. I used the Lee's to load 6.5CM ammo that was used out to 1k and did not feel like i was handicapped. I bought a set of Hornady Match dies from another member here and although they don't make more accurate ammo they are "nicer to use" specifically the micrometer seating die. Hope that helps....
 
Getting confused on the dies,looking at RCBS,Lee,Forster,I see there are alot of 6.5 creedmoor options,ranging from $40-$250,can you guys let me know which(non bushing)dies are best bang for the money.please supply part numbers as I see each company has multiple options for the same caliber.thanks all
You’re going to have to do some of this research work for yourself so that you can determine which die set will work best for you.

I use Redding, RCBS and Forster F/L sizing dies and Forster Micrometer Seater dies for all my precision rifle loads.

Check midway usa’s website for descriptions and pricing. You prob can find them a little cheaper elsewhere but Midway’s website is fairly user friendly for searching, etc.
 
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I know you say you want to start reloading and feel it is something you want/are willing to do. That said, reloading isn't something some people will keep doing. My suggestion is to look at some of the reloading kits that provide the basics you will need to start reloading. They'll start around $200 and go up to and over your $1K budget. They have options like manual scale or digital scale, a powder measure, trickler, lube (spray or pad), and various press styles. Like suggested earlier, start a spread sheet that you can list the items, cost, and things like "must have" or "optional" and your preference. Use it to select the kit that fits you best. That way if it turns out not to be your cup of tea you're not out as much money and you'll still be able to sell and recoup some of your money. I have friends that would actually work some extra overtime and buy their ammo rather than spend the time and energy to reload.

Another thing to think about is where you're going to be doing your reloading. How much space do you have to work with, can it be left out or are you going to have to store it away?
 
Same in regards to the comparators and other equipment above

I have a RCBS Rockchucker Supreme, Chargemaster 1500 combo, Dry tumble with media.

My go to dies are Lee collet, Redding and forester.

When first starting out I bought a “kit” which came with rcbs everything and was a very good starting point for me

The rabbit hole is deep
It's a never ending rabbit hole...
 
I honestly think even in this supposed pandemic, it is still cheaper to buy ammo than starting out new into reloading... components like primers are double in cost, powder is higher, not exactly double but it is higher and equipment is higher as well.. I would start out with something like a T7 or the new Lyman turret press so your not constantly swapping out dies. I like Redding dies for my rifles, bushing dies to be exact, but you would have to figure out your bushing sizes. I also wouldn't skimp too much on my calipers, meaning don't buy the cheapest shit Amazon has to offer.. powder trickler is a must, loading blocks, good scale I prefer digital but get what you can afford, case trimmer, maybe get the hornady headspace set and bullet comparator to start, imperial case lube wax, priming tool cause on board priming to me sucks on most presses in my opinion, shell holder sets, case prep center or hand tool which you will grow to despise, and probably a dozen other tools I'm forgetting.. I wish you all the luck in the world, you have a daunting task ahead of you gathering all of these things and components.. I will say, if you enjoy it, get ready to shell out some coin because the nicer tools are costly and you will want them. Have your divorce lawyer pre selected to save you some time..
 
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I honestly think even in this supposed pandemic, it is still cheaper to buy ammo than starting out new into reloading... components like primers are double in cost, powder is higher, not exactly double but it is higher and equipment is higher as well.. I would start out with something like a T7 or the new Lyman turret press so your not constantly swapping out dies. I like Redding dies for my rifles, bushing dies to be exact, but you would have to figure out your bushing sizes. I also wouldn't skimp too much on my calipers, meaning don't buy the cheapest shit Amazon has to offer.. powder trickler is a must, loading blocks, good scale I prefer digital but get what you can afford, case trimmer, maybe get the hornady headspace set and bullet comparator to start, imperial case lube wax, priming tool cause on board priming to me sucks on most presses in my opinion, shell holder sets, case prep center or hand tool which you will grow to despise, and probably a dozen other tools I'm forgetting.. I wish you all the luck in the world, you have a daunting task ahead of you gathering all of these things and components.. I will say, if you enjoy it, get ready to shell out some coin because the nicer tools are costly and you will want them. Have your divorce lawyer pre selected to save you some time..

It's still more cost effective to hand load in most cases, even if you are starting from scratch. A $2k investment should buy all the basic tooling and equipment needed for the production of match-equivalent ammunition. Hand loaded ammo will perform equally or better in the shooter's rifle assuming proper load work up.

Here's an example comparison between Berger 6.5 Creedmoor 140 Hybrid factory ammo (Midway product code 894040) and equivalent hand loaded ammo.

ComponentsUnit Cost (1 round) - ReloadingFactory Berger 6.5 Creedmoor ammo (box of 20) unit cost: Notes
h4350 (1 lb).40NA($66.89 total cost one 1lb bottle / 7000 grains) * 42 grains per case
Fed 205M Primer (box of 1000).10NA
Lapua SRP Brass (box of 100)1.14NA
140 Berger HT (box of 100).67NA
Subtotal$2.31NA
Amortized cap-ex ($2k investment on equipment, 2,000 rounds produced)1.00NAAmortized cap ex for the unit cost per round drops to $.80 if 2500 rounds produced and $.67 per round if 3000 rounds produced.
Total$3.31$3.95Base price of the Berger ammo is $58.99/shipping: $20

Savings @ 2000 rounds in now-year dollars: $1,280.00 ($0.64 cost avoidance x 2000 rounds produced). More rounds you produce the more you save over COTS ammo.

The one aggravating factor is the initial layout for everything which may or may not be in one's budget. That said, It's roughly equally challenging and frustrating to obtain either components or loaded ammo at the moment but if I had to start fresh today, I'd reload vs relying on COTS ammo.

Notes
- Figures are based on prices on all of the above components from Midsouth Shooters Supply and Midway and include hazmat and hazmat fee where applicable.

- No adjustments made for go-forward inflation or net-present value of future expenditures as those factors would impact everything in the above table.

- Indirect costs per round (case lube, cleaning agents, etc) are immaterial and would add less than .01 to the unit cost per round thus not included in the above calculations.

- State / local sales tax is applied where collected for any of the above items if bought from a major retailer (on-line or BM) but it's not included for purposes of comparison due to the varying amounts and percentages incurred by consumers across the country.
 
It's still more cost effective to hand load in most cases, even if you are starting from scratch. A $2k investment should buy all the basic tooling and equipment needed for the production of match-equivalent ammunition. Hand loaded ammo will perform equally or better in the shooter's rifle assuming proper load work up.

Here's an example comparison between Berger 6.5 Creedmoor 140 Hybrid factory ammo (Midway product code 894040) and equivalent hand loaded ammo.

ComponentsUnit Cost (1 round) - ReloadingFactory Berger 6.5 Creedmoor ammo (box of 20) unit cost: Notes
h4350 (1 lb).40NA($66.89 total cost one 1lb bottle / 7000 grains) * 42 grains per case
Fed 205M Primer (box of 1000).10NA
Lapua SRP Brass (box of 100)1.14NA
140 Berger HT (box of 100).67NA
Subtotal$2.31NA
Amortized cap-ex ($2k investment on equipment, 2,000 rounds produced)1.00NAAmortized cap ex for the unit cost per round drops to $.80 if 2500 rounds produced and $.67 per round if 3000 rounds produced.
Total$3.31$3.95Base price of the Berger ammo is $58.99/shipping: $20

Savings @ 2000 rounds in now-year dollars: $1,280.00 ($0.64 cost avoidance x 2000 rounds produced). More rounds you produce the more you save over COTS ammo.

The one aggravating factor is the initial layout for everything which may or may not be in one's budget. That said, It's roughly equally challenging and frustrating to obtain either components or loaded ammo at the moment but if I had to start fresh today, I'd reload vs relying on COTS ammo.

Notes
- Figures are based on prices on all of the above components from Midsouth Shooters Supply and Midway and include hazmat and hazmat fee where applicable.

- No adjustments made for go-forward inflation or net-present value of future expenditures as those factors would impact everything in the above table.

- Indirect costs per round (case lube, cleaning agents, etc) are immaterial and would add less than .01 to the unit cost per round thus not included in the above calculations.

- State / local sales tax is applied where collected for any of the above items if bought from a major retailer (on-line or BM) but it's not included for purposes of comparison due to the varying amounts and percentages incurred by consumers across the country.
Nice work up, I never would have thought it would still be cheaper with all the horse shit happening in our world right now, but I guess you have put together a very good argument. There is no way I'm paying 78 bucks a box for creedmoor ammo, I haven't bought any in a while, but it has went out of sight as well... SMH..
 
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I started a year or two ago with a Redding Big Boss press, and I've been happy with it. Pretty sure its comparable to the Rock Chucker, maybe just a lil bit better
 
Fantastic info guys,awsome work up on costs,I am still debating if this is a rabbit hole I am going to jump in
 
Fantastic info guys,awsome work up on costs,I am still debating if this is a rabbit hole I am going to jump in
Just realize that if you do get into it, you’re gonna want to upgrade everything to make it faster and better.
 
Fantastic info guys,awsome work up on costs,I am still debating if this is a rabbit hole I am going to jump in
Thanks…I’ll echo Krillers’ comment on the desire for continuous improvement and upgrading but you can cross that bridge later.

there’s a certain satisfaction that comes with making your own stuff (ammo, food, etc) that you don’t get with buying off the shelf.
 
Fantastic info guys,awsome work up on costs,I am still debating if this is a rabbit hole I am going to jump in

I've been reloading since I was a teenager. Reloading is a hobby that you should enjoy doing. If you're not willing to commit to it, don't do it. Save your money for buying ammo.

Once I found all of the best tools for me, I've found reloading is almost as enjoyable as shooting. Plus, it keeps me out of the Titty bars. (•)(•)
 
Accountant and Lawyer all in one.... :)

It's still more cost effective to hand load in most cases, even if you are starting from scratch. A $2k investment should buy all the basic tooling and equipment needed for the production of match-equivalent ammunition. Hand loaded ammo will perform equally or better in the shooter's rifle assuming proper load work up.

Here's an example comparison between Berger 6.5 Creedmoor 140 Hybrid factory ammo (Midway product code 894040) and equivalent hand loaded ammo.

ComponentsUnit Cost (1 round) - ReloadingFactory Berger 6.5 Creedmoor ammo (box of 20) unit cost: Notes
h4350 (1 lb).40NA($66.89 total cost one 1lb bottle / 7000 grains) * 42 grains per case
Fed 205M Primer (box of 1000).10NA
Lapua SRP Brass (box of 100)1.14NA
140 Berger HT (box of 100).67NA
Subtotal$2.31NA
Amortized cap-ex ($2k investment on equipment, 2,000 rounds produced)1.00NAAmortized cap ex for the unit cost per round drops to $.80 if 2500 rounds produced and $.67 per round if 3000 rounds produced.
Total$3.31$3.95Base price of the Berger ammo is $58.99/shipping: $20

Savings @ 2000 rounds in now-year dollars: $1,280.00 ($0.64 cost avoidance x 2000 rounds produced). More rounds you produce the more you save over COTS ammo.

The one aggravating factor is the initial layout for everything which may or may not be in one's budget. That said, It's roughly equally challenging and frustrating to obtain either components or loaded ammo at the moment but if I had to start fresh today, I'd reload vs relying on COTS ammo.

Notes
- Figures are based on prices on all of the above components from Midsouth Shooters Supply and Midway and include hazmat and hazmat fee where applicable.

- No adjustments made for go-forward inflation or net-present value of future expenditures as those factors would impact everything in the above table.

- Indirect costs per round (case lube, cleaning agents, etc) are immaterial and would add less than .01 to the unit cost per round thus not included in the above calculations.

- State / local sales tax is applied where collected for any of the above items if bought from a major retailer (on-line or BM) but it's not included for purposes of comparison due to the varying amounts and percentages incurred by consumers across the country.