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Advice on first steps with .223 Remington 700 build

djblingbling1

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Minuteman
Jul 3, 2004
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Oregon
Im picking up a .223 Remington 700 ADL for a very good price, cheap enough to make up for being an ADL. I chose .233 since I dont have access to a range over 300 yards, and the ammo is plentiful and fairly cheap.

I already have a harris bipod, and a votrex scope to throw on it from another gun, but wanted to get a few recomendations on my next steps to make sure money is well spent, as I am still new to the 700, aside from what I have read.

Im thinking ill want to upgrade the scope rail since it has the factory 2 piece, as well as the stock fairly soon. What would be a good rail in the $100 range, and a stock in probably the $300 range? Any other upgrades or right off the bat mods to make?

Thanks in advance!
 
Nightforce makes a good base (rail) that can be had new for $114.

HS Precision has good stocks that are in your price budget.

There are other choices as well, it comes down to personal preference
after that.

Both the scope base and stock in your price point can always be sourced
preowned here in options or optics forums as well.
 
Don't forget a good set of rings to go along with the rail. I like the Badger Ordnance rings, but there are several good ones; Nightforce, seekins, tps, to name a few.

One of the first things I would do after you get your scope all mounted up is to address the trigger. You can either adjust it yourself, or have a good gunsmith adjust it...or replace it with a good aftermarket trigger, such as a Timney or Rifle Basix. If it has one of the new X-mark triggers, scrap it and drop in an aftermarket trigger.
 
Thanks for the fast response. For rings I currently have Warne on the vortex....I know they are not the best, but seem better than your standard off the shelf walmart rings. I will dig around more and probably upgrade and throw these on another gun...I have heard a lot of recommendations in other threads for badger.

I have recently really come to appreciate a good trigger, so thats definitely on my list...just unsure if I should do the stock first or the trigger first, mainly since the stock will hopfully bed the rifle and float the barrel.

HS stocks all look to be around $400+ on their site...maybe I am in the wrong spot.

I like what B&C has, especially since they have some $200ish dollar a4 style stocks, but they are out of stock everywhere...I will probably look here used rather than new whatever route I go.
 
Stockysstocks.com

B&C medalist M40 clone $250

6unaretu.jpg
 
You can get a non-adjustable HS for about $300, their site is way over street price. Additionally, creep on the for sale section, folks usually get rid of prime HS stocks when the buy a 7005R.

I personally love the ergonomics of my non-adjustable M24 HS stock, forgot the actual number. Ordered it from Stocky's.
 
As above, there are plenty of good stocks that come up for sale here on the Hide. HS Precision take off stocks (one of the easiest upgrades) from LTR/PSS/700R rifles and others. Most go for between $200-250, some with and some without bottom metal & internal magazine w/spring & follower.

If your going with a 30mm scope tube option there's a lot of rings available right now too. Leupold, Badger, NF, etc. Some really fair prices. If you have a 1" tube I've seen a couple good deals too. Rails are abundant for a fair price too from a number of different venders. No reason to spend full price or top dollar or even have the latest taci-cool parts when there's good products and deals to be had. You can build a good shooting rig with good parts on a budget.
 
Good info...I think ill set aside a few hundred dollars and just watch the classifieds for a stock, or post a wanted ad. For rails whats the opinion on a 0MOA vs 20MOA, ect rail? Weaver makes a rail for $30 or so, not sure whats spending too much since it is a .223 and should have more manageable recoil than a 30 caliber based build.
 
The Weaver rail works just fine. I've used a couple of them in both the 20moa and the 0moa flavors. Get good rings - lord knows I spent almost 5 times more for the rings than the base. I like the Seekins stuff, but there are other goodies out there.
I'm becoming a fan of the B&C stocks as an entry level stock. My preference is for the 'butt hook' version, but your mileage may vary. Since you are in ADL land, you'll probably need to figure out different bottom metal. I like the PTG units myself - either DBM (IF you can find a frickin magazine in .223) or otherwise.
If the scope doesn't come to the eye, plan on getting a stock pack. Unless you are going the adjustable cheekpiece route - then you are just a rich bastard that is showing off.... :)

The .223 ADL in either the sporter or the varmint is a great gun to play with at the 300 yard line. Cheap to shoot, easy to manage and generally pretty darn accurate from what I've seen. I think you'll have a great time with it. Shoot the shit outa it!
 
Just got home from picking up the gun. Man this thing is solid, feels way better than my 30-06 savage, but also seems a bit heavier surprisingly.

Bolt is a lot more smooth than I was expecting, and the trigger breaks very well, proably will put a lot of rounds through it before I worry too much about that.

I think ill work on a used stock, and put some good money into rings, and not worry as much about the rail.

Id love a detachable magazine, but its already an expensive upgrade, and looks to be even more so in .223.
 
A couple questions from someone in the same place. How good performance wise are the HS Precision stocks that people pull of factory 700's? Also, I've seen the new X-mark triggers take a good bit of flak. Bearing in mind that I am by no means a trigger connoisseur, I dont see any glaring flaws other than maybe pull weight. What complaints do people have about them?

Sent from my RM-845_nam_vzw_100 using Tapatalk
 
The problem with (almost) all of the non-adjustable stocks is getting the proper cheek weld while firing the weapon. You can do the old standby military method of foam and duct tape but it looks scabbed together.

With regards to the trigger, factory Remington's just don't adjust light enough for good precision work. Get one of the aftermarket preset 1.5# triggers and don't look back. I gave up on Timney triggers because they won't stay adjusted. Went thru 3 or 4. Spent about $200 on some other brand that doesn't come to mind right now and it has been working great.
 
Found a cheap hogue in the classifieds here.....better than what I have, plus I can do some DIY mods to improve on it without ruining the factory stock, and save in the meantime for a higher end stock.

It looks like I have an Xpro or whatever they are called trigger.....How do I know if its the self adjustable or the newer style that needs to be smith modded? Figure ill work with what I have and see how it shoots...if it aint broke I wont fix it, but if I find I cant get a consistent trigger pull ill go with a new trigger.

While on the subject of the .223, what do you all recommend for factory loads, or do any of you have some handload formulas? I am in the process of learning to reload, so any good starting formulas would be awesome if someone is willing to share.
 
There are two (for the most part) triggers in the current Remington lineup - one has a little set screw on the trigger - the other doesn't. Both are adjustable to an extent by an 'end user.' Take a look at 'Ernie the gunsmith' for both trigger identification and lighter springs.
 
Looks like they make springs until 06 for the standard trigger and then after 09 for the Pro...mine is a non pro 2011 so I think I have to just swap it out if I want to get it lighter...too bad because the springs are cheap.
 
Nope - look again. The 1962 Until 2006 Varmint Trigger Spring is what you are looking for. Smooth front face trigger, comes on the ADLs.
 
Coming from someone who's built a .223 Remington 700 up over the last 2 years the best thing I can tell you is buy items once. I've gone through multiple sets of rings, bases, 2 scopes, etc. Because I was impatient and bought what I could afford at the time. I know it's painful to wait sometimes but you'll be happier in the end and you'll save money.
ugera5u3.jpg
 
Alright, figured out the right spring.

Cant find too many reviews, worth it to get the spring, or put the money towards a whole trigger unit?
 
The spring doesn't turn it into a Jewell, but it does improve things pretty significantly. Trade offs. Rem factory triggers seem to be fairly robust, but have limits on how crisp, how light. Jewell seem to be more sensitive to gunk. Same kind of thing to consider with other triggers. How perfect is required or appropriate? For a $10 change, the re-sprung trigger works well and will meet the casual trigger puller well. Ymmv.
 
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Just got back from getting to shoot this, and it has definitely helped in some decision making.



First off my rear bag sucks....I put my fist under it, but I could tell I was getting a lot of inconsistency with my position because of it.

Also the scope thats on the gun, whatever remington sends with it, is unusable. the parallax adjustment basically gave me the option of blury target or blurry crosshairs...I could not get it perfect. I have never had this issue with my vortex that's on my 30-06, so that will get swapped over to this. I want to swap the 2 piece rail out at the same time, so back to some earlier posts again, what would be best spent money on a rail...I got a few brands, but dont want to buy cheap and have to buy twice, what is the best bang for the buck.

On to the real issue...not sure if this should get its own thread...

My groups suck, I think. I give myself some forgiveness because I was told the gun was zeroed and it was not so I was adjusting on the fly, plus it was insanely foggy as soon as I got the scope zeroed:



Also it was lightly raining, and again my rear bag would not give me a solid stance.

Now keep in mind this is a stock ADL Remington 700, shooting prone from a harris bipod at around 70-75 yards, I am shooting cheapo american eagle 55 grain FMJ ammo:



Bottom right, left, top right, top left is the order they where shot in...this is after 10 rounds shot on another target to zero. That's a 1" red circle.

Now Im still very new to "precision" shooting, and I know comparing myself to most of what is posted on here is probably setting up to fail, but this still seems like really bad grouping.

Is this around normal for the gun or is it just me?
 
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There are so many variables to your question that it is dificult to answer.
First: what is the accuracy potential of the gun? "normal for the gun" can only be answered by the owner.
2: with what ammo was best accuracy acheived? and were you using that ammo?
3: what is the quality of the trigger?
4: not being comforable behind the rifle will have a dramatic effect: ie: this rifle is not set up for you yet.
The answer is: impossible to tell.
 
I guess that makes sense. I should probably get some range cards for data logging my shooting so I can see my progress as I address individual issues. Once I get consistency start fixing the things I know can be improved on.

I swapped the scope over, and ordered a trigger spring.

Ill search for a good rear bag...any recommendations for one that is light enough to throw in a pack and gives good height?

Also need some good civilian aimed range cards...I have some I picked up at us tactical supply but they are more military oriented and for shooting human targets and estimating range.

Thanks fir all the advice and help so far gentlemen.
 
Got my Ernie spring today, got the trigger damn near perfect for me. I think any lighter and it might be too light for me at this point.
Friday im going to go out again...shooting the same targets at the same range, and ill see if my groups improve with A. the Vortex scope, and B. the lighter spring.