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AI AT headspace?

Nightforce123

Gunny Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Feb 16, 2017
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Hello, I am going to be purchasing my first AI AT here in the next week. Its going to be a 308 and I’m going to be purchasing a 6.5 barrel for it also. I was wondering if anyone has ever recieved an out of spec barrel that doesn’t headspace right? Do you check headspace with every barrel you purchase for your AT? Thank you.
 
Absolutely. Also, Accurate Ordnance does fantastic barrels. They were on sale for $650. That’s an excellent price. Mine is a Brux. Very accurate barrel. I’ve taken it to a mile several times, and regularly shoot it past 1200.
 
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Yes, I have. Two And they were done by quality gunsmiths who do very good work. But just so happened both barrels measured the same. When I checked headspace, they both closed on no go gauges. Simple shave of the shoulder fixed both but I would check headspace of every new barrel. That’s just me.
 
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My AINA 308 barrel closes very easily on a no-go gauge, stops midway on a field gauge. Still runs great with all factory ammo and hammers with handloads. I’d be more worried if it was to tight on a go gauge. I have a Remington in the shop that is oddly tight on a go gauge. That thing is a bitch to close on almost all factory ammo, bolt lift is terrible once fired.

Buy from someone you trust and you’ll be fine, I trust my AINA barrel to work reliably no matter what.
 
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My AINA 308 barrel closes very easily on a no-go gauge, stops midway on a field gauge. Still runs great with all factory ammo and hammers with handloads. I’d be more worried if it was to tight on a go gauge. I have a Remington in the shop that is oddly tight on a go gauge. That thing is a bitch to close on almost all factory ammo, bolt lift is terrible once fired.

Buy from someone you trust and you’ll be fine, I trust my AINA barrel to work reliably no matter what.

I’m planning on buying some headspace gauges now. I was just going to buy g and no go. Should I invest in a set of three and get the field gauge as well?
 
I check mine. I've had a couple barrels that would close easily on a no-go gauge as well. For the 308 barrel it wasn't a big deal since it was for factory ammo, but on the 6.5 barrel I prefer not to have 0.007" of case growth on the first firing with expensive 6.5x47L Lapua brass.

I just buy a GO gage and use scotch tape on the back. Each layer of tape is ~0.002" thick, so two layers approximates a no-go gauge, and if that still closes you can keep adding layers. For me, buying a dedicated no-go gauge wasn't worth the $50, but to each his own.
 
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http://patriotvalleyarms.com/replacement-match-barrel-accuracy-international/

We offer the service that if you want to send in your AT so I can measure it we will make the prefit barrel specific to your rifle as well. This is offered at no charge for services, we just require the owner to pay the extra shipping. The service is only for our prefits, we won't measure it and then hand off the information to another gunsmith.
 
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It all depends on what you’re doing. If Shooting factory ammo with no reloading that brass it won’t matter. Even if you’re planning on reloading just buy from someone like Patriot Valley, Red Beard Gunworks or hell even from me. Just someone that sells AI barrels and knows what they need. Most all guns I’ve had go through the shop are all damn near similar. I had one that was out of spec, it was .004” to long in the action, I’d guess from Shooting it ALOT.

All in all it’s only been an issue with 1 barrel and that 1 rifle, I brought the rifle in, checked everything and it was the action. Trust the place you’re buying from and you’ll be fine.
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http://patriotvalleyarms.com/replacement-match-barrel-accuracy-international/

We offer the service that if you want to send in your AT so I can measure it we will make the prefit barrel specific to your rifle as well. This is offered at no charge for services, we just require the owner to pay the extra shipping. The service is only for our prefits, we won't measure it and then hand off the information to another gunsmith.
That’s awesome.

I will definitely be doing that. Thank you so much for the information I appreciate it.
 
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Thank you everyone for the information and help. I just purchased the rifle from mile high tonight should be shipping out tomorrow.
 
As I understand it, factory AI headspace is purposely loose to ensure the rifles can chamber any ammo, even in foul conditions.
My AX came with an AINA (Bartlein/Tooley) .308 barrel that shoots great. The chamber is definitely not tight. I bump the shoulder .002" every 3rd reload (Lee collet die the neck on the other firings) so it's likely my ammo won't chamber in some rifles, but I'm not overworking the brass when it's fired in my rifle.
I spin up my barrels with .002" clearance over a go gage.
I had to face a few thousandths off a Redding type S die to bump the shoulder of my 6.5 CM brass, but no bolt lift problems, so I'm gonna leave them tight. Hornady factory ammo chambers fine, too, in case I ever had to go that route.
 
I bought a savage target action and a shilen select match barrel for my build. You can head space it your self with a vice, action wrench and barrel nut wrench and ensure it is right because it is yours. I had absolutely no issues at all and this was my first time to do this. Very easy to change calibers just set your headspace every time of course. I bought all my tooling from Jim Briggs at Northland Shooters Supply. Very, very helpful and gladly answered all questions I had. Very easy and fun. Just a thought.
Screenshot_2018-02-07-21-38-44.png
 
Taking into account the cost of AI and barrels I find it strange that the bolt can be closed on a no go gauge. There are hundreds of thousands of Sauer SSG3000/STR qc barrels from different manufactorers and a huge amount of Blaser R93 and R8 barrels in circulaition. I've never heard of a single issue of headspace problems were a bolt can be closed on a no go gauge in these rifles.
 
There are are no problems as you’re suggesting. That’s just how AI designed the spec. As long as it doesn’t close on a field gauge and closes with zero resistance on a go-gauge you’re fine. These are battle rifles designed to work with a multitude of ammo and the barrel specs are reflective of that. The barrels should also be able to swap over to other AI rifles with ease. I would never discourage anyone from doing their due diligence however.
 
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http://patriotvalleyarms.com/replacement-match-barrel-accuracy-international/

We offer the service that if you want to send in your AT so I can measure it we will make the prefit barrel specific to your rifle as well. This is offered at no charge for services, we just require the owner to pay the extra shipping. The service is only for our prefits, we won't measure it and then hand off the information to another gunsmith.

PVA,
I’m new to AI rifles and precision bolt guns in general and have a AT. Can you advise what the benefits are of sending the AI rifle to you vs just buying prefit? Does it have to do with a more precise headspace?

Thanks for any info you can provide!
 
I have 8 Dave Tooley made barrels and they never needed to be pre fit all head spaced perfect when check with go-no gauges. I have barrels for both long and short action AI's so I can recommend Dave's work for any AI action.
 
PVA,
I’m new to AI rifles and precision bolt guns in general and have a AT. Can you advise what the benefits are of sending the AI rifle to you vs just buying prefit? Does it have to do with a more precise headspace?

Thanks for any info you can provide!
If you buy a prefit we set them up so that they are going to be on the looser side of the tolerance and approaching the NOGO side for the reasons discussed above. If someone wants to send the rifle in to us I can make the headspace to match customer requests.

Let's say your particular rifle is x.xxx and you want the barrel cut so it is setup to do something particular.
If you send the rifle here we measure it and log it in a file. When you need a barrel:

"Josh,
I need a barrel for AI yy AT xxxxx in 6.5 Creedmoor setup for PRIME ammo.
Finish Length:
Muzzle thread pattern:
I'd like it to be dead on GO because I'm only shooting factory ammo"

Otherwise it's just
"I need a 26" AI barrel for PRIME 6.5 Creed with 5/8-24 muzzle threads."

The second option will have a looser headspace by design so that it will work on any AI.
 
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Found this thread doing a search. I have a brand new AI AT that came with a 6.5 CRDM barrel. Go gauge slips right in and a no-go won't even start to close. I also bought a 6mm Creedmoor barrel from a well respected company and the bolt won't even start to close on a go gauge. New Alpha brass will chamber with about .0015 to spare. My bushing die won't screw down far enough to even touch the shoulder on a fired case. I suppose I could have a bit turned off of the die. The maker of the barrel told me I could back the barrel off of the shoulder a bit and torque the screws down. Scratching head and wondering what to do. Would putting one layer of Scotch tape on the end of the go gauge, turning the barrel in until it hits the gauge, then tightening the barrel screws be a bad idea?
 
if it were me id send the barrel back and let them check it...prove that it wasnt chambered short
if they proved it good, then id turn the die

unscrewing the barrel and leaving a gap between the action face and barrel shoulder sounds retarded tho, not sure id ever want to leave it like that and keep on shooting it
 
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Yeah, asking a question like that was dumb, just thinking out loud. I called the barrel maker and told him about the heavy bolt lift and gawd awful swipe I has getting on the head of the case. He told me to be sure the ejector wasn't dragging on the case. Believe it or not, this one week old AT had a burr from hell on the bolt face all the way around the ejector hole. Upon firing the case would impale itself on the burr, then scrape brass off on the lift. A little 600 grit paper followed by 1500 and the problem was solved. My die will only knock the shoulder back .0005 so I will turn a little off. It's a cheap die. Instead of buying another Redding die, I thought I would try the new version of the Hornady bushing die.
 
Instead of buying another Redding die, I thought I would try the new version of the Hornady bushing die.

I would try a new shell holder and then if that doesnt work sanding down that new holder instead of altering the die itself. Sand paper on a piece of glass for a flat srface and sand the top down in a figure 8 pattern to try and keep it level where possible. Mess up the cheapest and easiest thing first. Then just color it with a sharpie or mark it somehow to differentiate it from the others and keep it with the die.

You could also try it with a .001 or .002 feeler gauge in between the case and the shell holder to lift it up and see if that accomplishes what you want. If it still doesnt size with that then you have a different issue like the press flexing more than it can impart force on the brass.
 
Sanded a shell holder down and works like a champ. Quick, easy fix. Shell holder will stay with the dies.
 
It all depends on what you’re doing. If Shooting factory ammo with no reloading that brass it won’t matter. Even if you’re planning on reloading just buy from someone like Patriot Valley, Red Beard Gunworks or hell even from me. Just someone that sells AI barrels and knows what they need. Most all guns I’ve had go through the shop are all damn near similar. I had one that was out of spec, it was .004” to long in the action, I’d guess from Shooting it ALOT.

All in all it’s only been an issue with 1 barrel and that 1 rifle, I brought the rifle in, checked everything and it was the action. Trust the place you’re buying from and you’ll be fine.View attachment 6872594

Good to see red beards gun works getting the recognition they deserve
 
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I found my way here after checking the HS on my AI AE (original barrel). It passed the go , but failed the nogo easily. However, it will not budge at on a field. I removed the extractor plunger but not the ejector.
I reload so should I be concerned that it eats a nogo?