Is there a preferred approach to adjusting the scope so that when you dial in vertical on the scope, the bullet impact will follow the vertical line?
Rifle Scopes Aligning Vertical Tracking
- Thread starter ShtrRdy
- Start date
Re: Aligning Vertical Tracking
I'm a little confused is your question about installation or the scope itself? If the scope is installed properly, the reticle is not canted, and it tracks correctly every scope will do this.
I'm a little confused is your question about installation or the scope itself? If the scope is installed properly, the reticle is not canted, and it tracks correctly every scope will do this.
Re: Aligning Vertical Tracking
I think the most exacting method is to level the gun as best possible. Then hang a plumb line at 100 yards and set your scope to the plumb line and lock everything down. Unfortunately, that's often easier said than done because scopes have a tendency to seat themselves how they see fit. Keeping the scope from wandering off true as you tighten the rings often involves lapping the rings to prevent any inconstancy causing the scope to rotate as it's being tightened. This is all very anal but some of us like it as perfect as possible (hoping your scope tracks perpendicular to it's outer dimensions.
The second method is to shim the base of the scope so that it can't rotate as your tightening it down. This can be accomplished by wedging a stack of feeler gauges between the bottom of the scope and picatinny rail and tightening down the scope while removing a guage as the tension becomes greater. It's still often difficult to prevent the scope from rotating even with this method, without lapping the rings. Unless you get lucky and have perfectly round rings and a perfectly round scope.
But as I said, I think most go "good enough" and learn the tendencies of the rifle and shoot to those tendencies. Learning your gun is the most important step anyway.
I think the most exacting method is to level the gun as best possible. Then hang a plumb line at 100 yards and set your scope to the plumb line and lock everything down. Unfortunately, that's often easier said than done because scopes have a tendency to seat themselves how they see fit. Keeping the scope from wandering off true as you tighten the rings often involves lapping the rings to prevent any inconstancy causing the scope to rotate as it's being tightened. This is all very anal but some of us like it as perfect as possible (hoping your scope tracks perpendicular to it's outer dimensions.
The second method is to shim the base of the scope so that it can't rotate as your tightening it down. This can be accomplished by wedging a stack of feeler gauges between the bottom of the scope and picatinny rail and tightening down the scope while removing a guage as the tension becomes greater. It's still often difficult to prevent the scope from rotating even with this method, without lapping the rings. Unless you get lucky and have perfectly round rings and a perfectly round scope.
But as I said, I think most go "good enough" and learn the tendencies of the rifle and shoot to those tendencies. Learning your gun is the most important step anyway.
Re: Aligning Vertical Tracking
I got some small bubble levels and used them to get the rifle as level as possible, then aligned the reticule of the scope with a known vertical line. If you can do the feeler gauge method that's a good one too.
I got some small bubble levels and used them to get the rifle as level as possible, then aligned the reticule of the scope with a known vertical line. If you can do the feeler gauge method that's a good one too.
Re: Aligning Vertical Tracking
First I install my rail, than I install the bottom halves of the rings with the scope loosely on it to find where I want to mount it. Once I determine where I want it, I tighten the bottom rings (without the scope - just the bottom half to the rail.)
Then, I use at least two levels, I use Level-Level-Level from Wheeler. I sometimes will use three (well most often).
I place one level to keep an eye on the rifle. I try to find a place (usually the rail) to keep an eye on the level. Then, placing the scope on the bottom rings, I place another small level on top of the elevation turret. Then I place a long carpenter's level on the surface (table) where I have the rifle.
I place a plum a short distance and aim to try to get the vertical line as close to the line as possible.
now I place the top rings and keep looking at the vertical to the plum. It take me a while to get it right any movement and it's off.
Slowly I start to tie it down but only slightly, then I cross switch, keep looking at the levels, keep looking through the scope to the plum and keep adjusting. Normally it takes me a few times to have to loosen.
And keep doing this until it comes out as best I can.
(Then I take it to the gunsmith and have him install it again - jk).
(I think this is the same as indicated above, just I might be more wordy.
First I install my rail, than I install the bottom halves of the rings with the scope loosely on it to find where I want to mount it. Once I determine where I want it, I tighten the bottom rings (without the scope - just the bottom half to the rail.)
Then, I use at least two levels, I use Level-Level-Level from Wheeler. I sometimes will use three (well most often).
I place one level to keep an eye on the rifle. I try to find a place (usually the rail) to keep an eye on the level. Then, placing the scope on the bottom rings, I place another small level on top of the elevation turret. Then I place a long carpenter's level on the surface (table) where I have the rifle.
I place a plum a short distance and aim to try to get the vertical line as close to the line as possible.
now I place the top rings and keep looking at the vertical to the plum. It take me a while to get it right any movement and it's off.
Slowly I start to tie it down but only slightly, then I cross switch, keep looking at the levels, keep looking through the scope to the plum and keep adjusting. Normally it takes me a few times to have to loosen.
And keep doing this until it comes out as best I can.
(Then I take it to the gunsmith and have him install it again - jk).
(I think this is the same as indicated above, just I might be more wordy.
Re: Aligning Vertical Tracking
Thanks for your thoughts and experiences.
Is there a procedure you would follow at the range to confirm the elevation adjustment tracks vertically true?
Thanks for your thoughts and experiences.
Is there a procedure you would follow at the range to confirm the elevation adjustment tracks vertically true?
Re: Aligning Vertical Tracking
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TiOpQY2ORo4&feature=related
Try this.
I should add, have your rifle/scope bore sighted to ensure you get on paper.
You can bore sight it yourself by looking through the bore and adjusting the windage/elevation before firing your first shot.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TiOpQY2ORo4&feature=related
Try this.
I should add, have your rifle/scope bore sighted to ensure you get on paper.
You can bore sight it yourself by looking through the bore and adjusting the windage/elevation before firing your first shot.
Re: Aligning Vertical Tracking
Use feeler gauges between the scope and the base. I'm sure you could find a video on youtube showing you how.
Use feeler gauges between the scope and the base. I'm sure you could find a video on youtube showing you how.
Similar threads
