Gunsmithing aluminum firing pin
- Thread starter R.Walters
- Start date
Re: aluminum firing pin
It makes lock time faster. I've got speedlocks in my rifles snd noticed a difference when dry firing.
It makes lock time faster. I've got speedlocks in my rifles snd noticed a difference when dry firing.
Re: aluminum firing pin
My "work" rifle has a titanium pin, and this seems common for LE rifles.
The Tubb speedlock is a composite alloy pin, isn't it?
So, which is best:
a composite alloy pin?
an aluminum pin?
or a titanium pin?
Opinions?
My "work" rifle has a titanium pin, and this seems common for LE rifles.
The Tubb speedlock is a composite alloy pin, isn't it?
So, which is best:
a composite alloy pin?
an aluminum pin?
or a titanium pin?
Opinions?
Re: aluminum firing pin
The Tubb Speedlock has a aluminum body and a steel tip. I like and use them on all my rigs.
The Tubb Speedlock has a aluminum body and a steel tip. I like and use them on all my rigs.
Re: aluminum firing pin
While looking up something earlier I found a mention of some of the replacement pins not working well with replacement triggers (Rifle Basix was mentioned). Anyone have more detail on that?
While looking up something earlier I found a mention of some of the replacement pins not working well with replacement triggers (Rifle Basix was mentioned). Anyone have more detail on that?
Re: aluminum firing pin
The pin wont effect the cocking piece, and will not be effected by where the trigger sear is.
If you replace the entire shroud, and it'd made wrong or poorly or whatever, it may cause problems.
I use ones from PT&G and theyre great. Most can be dropped in and work great. Some bolt NEED the firing pin shortend. Firing pin protrusion over 65 thou can be dangerous. Factory I have found is between 50 and 55. I've measured quite a few.
I dont think titanium is better than aluminum. In either case, the firing pin is stainless steel. Only the shaft is aluminum or titaium.
The pin wont effect the cocking piece, and will not be effected by where the trigger sear is.
If you replace the entire shroud, and it'd made wrong or poorly or whatever, it may cause problems.
I use ones from PT&G and theyre great. Most can be dropped in and work great. Some bolt NEED the firing pin shortend. Firing pin protrusion over 65 thou can be dangerous. Factory I have found is between 50 and 55. I've measured quite a few.
I dont think titanium is better than aluminum. In either case, the firing pin is stainless steel. Only the shaft is aluminum or titaium.
Re: aluminum firing pin
The lighter weight pins don't work as well somtimes because the factory spring is used , this in combo with the new light weight pin make for a reduced striking force , they recomend that you go up a couple pounds on the spring when you reduce the weight of the pin
The lighter weight pins don't work as well somtimes because the factory spring is used , this in combo with the new light weight pin make for a reduced striking force , they recomend that you go up a couple pounds on the spring when you reduce the weight of the pin
Re: aluminum firing pin
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: JJones75</div><div class="ubbcode-body">The lighter weight pins don't work as well somtimes because the factory spring is used , this in combo with the new light weight pin make for a reduced striking force , they recomend that you go up a couple pounds on the spring when you reduce the weight of the pin </div></div>
And that heavier spring can cause you issues.
And for the OP..
My advice is to stick with the factory unit or use a PTG that is a copy of a factory unit.
I'm not going to enter the debate on faster lock time in regards to a field or tactical rifle other then to say if it makes you feel better go ahead as long as you know there can be issues that are not necessarily better or beneficial.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: JJones75</div><div class="ubbcode-body">The lighter weight pins don't work as well somtimes because the factory spring is used , this in combo with the new light weight pin make for a reduced striking force , they recomend that you go up a couple pounds on the spring when you reduce the weight of the pin </div></div>
And that heavier spring can cause you issues.
And for the OP..
My advice is to stick with the factory unit or use a PTG that is a copy of a factory unit.
I'm not going to enter the debate on faster lock time in regards to a field or tactical rifle other then to say if it makes you feel better go ahead as long as you know there can be issues that are not necessarily better or beneficial.
Re: aluminum firing pin
The aluminum firing pin assemblies from PT&G come complete with an alumium shroud, new spring, aluminum pin, and new cocking piece/cross pin.
If anyone insists on doing it themselves, it'd be easiest to buy one of those and drop it in. But again, you really should measure firing pin protrusion, and adjust. The tools needed to do it easily can be found in Brownells, or Sinclair.
Lube the aluminum shroud threads with a little grease. Lube the aluminum bolt body just ever so slightly. Might even rub in grease, then wipe it off with a patch.
You dont want to oil a bolt, just lube important spots with a small amount of the correct lube.
Thats how I do it anyways
The aluminum firing pin assemblies from PT&G come complete with an alumium shroud, new spring, aluminum pin, and new cocking piece/cross pin.
If anyone insists on doing it themselves, it'd be easiest to buy one of those and drop it in. But again, you really should measure firing pin protrusion, and adjust. The tools needed to do it easily can be found in Brownells, or Sinclair.
Lube the aluminum shroud threads with a little grease. Lube the aluminum bolt body just ever so slightly. Might even rub in grease, then wipe it off with a patch.
You dont want to oil a bolt, just lube important spots with a small amount of the correct lube.
Thats how I do it anyways
Re: aluminum firing pin
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: DirtyRod</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: AZPrecision</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Firing pin protrusion over 65 thou can be dangerous.</div></div>
How so?
</div></div>
It can puncture the primer if there's enough strike pressure
You might be okay up to 70 or so, but why risk it? Factory comes at 50, I set at about 60(for aluminum), 55 for steel.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: DirtyRod</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: AZPrecision</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Firing pin protrusion over 65 thou can be dangerous.</div></div>
How so?
</div></div>
It can puncture the primer if there's enough strike pressure
You might be okay up to 70 or so, but why risk it? Factory comes at 50, I set at about 60(for aluminum), 55 for steel.
Re: aluminum firing pin
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: JLharris</div><div class="ubbcode-body">While looking up something earlier I found a mention of some of the replacement pins not working well with replacement triggers (Rifle Basix was mentioned). Anyone have more detail on that?</div></div>
just....sometimes that combination will not work safely because when you JUST replace the FP the trigger has now got a different spring tension on the sear engagement,thus......the stock trigger needs to be adjusted to reflect the users optimal trigger let-off.....when a tweeked aftermarket trigger is installed, the aftermarket FP and spring introduces a whole new spring tension to the fire control system....and many can not get it set safely....an have to return to one stock part or another.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: JLharris</div><div class="ubbcode-body">While looking up something earlier I found a mention of some of the replacement pins not working well with replacement triggers (Rifle Basix was mentioned). Anyone have more detail on that?</div></div>
just....sometimes that combination will not work safely because when you JUST replace the FP the trigger has now got a different spring tension on the sear engagement,thus......the stock trigger needs to be adjusted to reflect the users optimal trigger let-off.....when a tweeked aftermarket trigger is installed, the aftermarket FP and spring introduces a whole new spring tension to the fire control system....and many can not get it set safely....an have to return to one stock part or another.
