- Thread starter karagias
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There are stages with multiple shots from the same position in PRS, so fast manipulation is important.
I had Archimedes and Nucleus, the difference in speed cycling them was minimal in feel to me.
I would be surprised, it’s such a niche product. I was going to try 3D printing a replacement to get a little closer to the trigger, but haven’t had time to finish the design.
In other news, I found the spigot was a little long for the Elite Iron bipod, resulting in a diving board effect when firing. My very classy modification:
Strong work Phlegethon
Lol, you couldnt leave another 1/8" to keep the N?
I wasn’t even looking at that, just trying to cut in between the pic rail segments. It seems to have worked well but I’d love to find a direct mount option.
Mine went straight from the mailbox to the hack saw. Now I have a spare Arca to Picatinny adaptor.
FYI-removing this little bump allows magpul mags to fit right in. Otherwise they interfere with the hump on the mag catch.
I wanted the grip to be about 1/4" closer to the trigger. I liked it and was going to put some foam padding on the grip, but ultimately ended up selling it and going back to my ACC. Maybe once grips are out / adjustable I'll go back to the Xylo.
Wonder if there will be another 4th of July sale. Still kicking myself for missing that.
Haven't seen one with color on it yet, MAS grey cerakote. Unfortunately I have my unpainted beater bbl on which detracts from the overall look; otherwise... Enjoy!
Nice, been thinking about getting mine painted.
Taking it apart have me even more appreciation as to how these things are thought out. Even the mag catch spring is a piece of art! Not the simple little indent coil spring like so many others.
Justin at Red American Cerakote did mine
Anyone have a printable outline of the grips? Wondering if i could make a template to place on hardwoods to cut on my bandsaw. Might be more complicated than i think itll be haha.
The problem is the inner surface is pretty intricate. They do make a CAD file available but you’d need a CNC mill. I think it would be tough to do by hand.
Ah ic. Thanks for the info brotha
Probably possible to 3D print a router template too, tho...
I 3D printed an ambisexual cheek piece but now that you mention it, a wooden one would be pretty alright! I have a walnut project rolling right now that should produce a piece of scrap that would work.
Also replaced the factory butt pad with a pachmyer. Original unit started cracking on me.
How did you do the butt pad? The ergonomics of the factory one are starting to seem suboptimal.
Belt sander and a drill. There's a steel reinforcing plate inside the pachmyer, and as you can see (silver strips along the side) I had to cut through it to match the profile of the Xylo plate. Ideally a guy leaves meat around the outside edge of that reinforcing plate but I didn't remember it until I 'found' it with the belt sander.
Otherwise, it's held to the XYLO with the same 2 screws that held on the original pad. I had to drill those 2 holes in the Pachmyer pad.
My MS Paint skills at it again. This is roughly what it looks like, It's been a few years since I tore one apart to look at it.
Otherwise, it's held to the XYLO with the same 2 screws that held on the original pad. I had to drill those 2 holes in the Pachmyer pad.
My MS Paint skills at it again. This is roughly what it looks like, It's been a few years since I tore one apart to look at it.
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How difficult is it to remove the original butt pad and cheek piece to be replaced with the pachmayer and cheek unit? I want it to be ambi on the cheek since I shoot wrong side at matches fairly regularly. This is basically my last hold up. I doubt I use the cant features but that logic might change when I have the chassis in hand.
Removing them isn't a problem, super easy.
I wonder if it would be possible to use the KRG molded cheek rest, since it seems to use a modular mounting plate:
www.snipershide.com
Ultimate KRG Bravo upgrade
After spending about 6 months with two Vudoo V-22's in the KRG Bravo chassis that I built for my daughters I have personally grown to love the Bravo. So much so that I have sold all my other chassis and stocks. In this time I have added the weighted spacer in the butt for balance and the...
www.snipershide.com In other news, I’ve found the Gray Ops external weights (designed for the MPA chassis) work great on the Xylo. They come down almost flush with the bottom, bringing the width to 2.7 inches and making the foreend more stable. The new RRS lever clamp still works, although I think a knob type clamp would interfere. 
Just happen to have this one out. Not a flat shoe but just in case it helps:
I always found the Manners stock to have the grip too far back for me, but the Xylo feels much better.
This is a very out of date follow up on this issue, but for anyone searching for a solution in the future I wanted to post something to help out.
My Xylo + Zeus combination experiences the same problem with AICS mags (Magpul in my case, as its what I had on-hand). What I assume is tolerance stacking in the forward area of the mag well. The Zeus is not sitting far enough back (or the Xylo magwell is not cut far enough forward, or both) to allow the magazine to hit the mag stop lip of the action. So the front of the mag is over inserted and binds everything up.
The issue is easily resolved by calling ARC and getting a set of Magazine Stop Screws (part 12142, item #48 on the parts diagram) They screw into the chassis and give the mag something to stop against. With the screws in place, the bolt will not bind, even with the full weight of the rifle resting on the magazine. The clever bolt catch hump on the Xylo can do its job effectively.
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