Just got my amp and I really want to add the mate with the Dillon feeder and creedmoor sports stand. Anyone running this setup? How’s it working? Finicky or pretty reliable? I’m loading 223, 223 Ai, 6 dasher, 25 creed, 7saum and 300 Prc, so I will be adjusting quite a bit. Thanks
- Thread starter codym
- Start date
Works great. I built my own base and stand though for a lot less and waaay stronger.
Works great as long as you make the correct adjustments for each caliber.
I finally was able to grab one after having my AMP for about 2 years. As others have said it works very well if you set it up correctly. I run mine without a case feeder and just fill up the tube 5 or 6 at a time and that works great for me. That being said I only set it up the mate if I’m annealing over 100 pieces of brass or it’s already set up for the cartridge I’m annealing but that’s mainly me just being lazy.
I bought mine the year they came out with it. It worked fine for about a year or two and then slowly became more unreliable until I got fed up with it. I contacted AMP a couple of times, went back and forth with some basic trouble shooting stuff but I could never resolve it. It has sat in the corner for three years. Around the time it was falling apart, I started getting frustrated with the fried, super dry interior neck surface an AMP leaves on brass and stopped annealing so much. I used to run through batches of 300 pcs of brass at a time every two or three weeks on my main competition barrel. Now I only anneal a batch of brass every 5 firings or so. That turns into only two or three large batch anneals in a barrels life.
I've been curious about the "Anneal Every Firing" strategy, but have done that anyway on my AMP for a few years now. Have you extracted any empirical data on what happens when you anneal less often? What has that done for your groups, velocity, seating pressure, brass health, etc.? Any data you can share since annealing less often?
I anneal every firing, been doing it before the aml with a giraud. I make it habit to do the same thing everytime I load. The AMP makes the process so much easier and consistent than how I did it before. As far as changing calibers go, it takes a couple minutes and you’re good to go. I run 223, 22,25,6mm creedmoors and then 308 and 338 Lapua.. it’s no issue to change out the tooling and press start and then do something g else while the amp does its job.
No. And that's kind of the point. I was never able to prove that annealing every time made groups sizes at 300yds any better. So I have nothing to show.
Don't think the Dillion case feeder would make a lot of difference, if you can find a longer tube, manually drops the brass in works better.
The Dillon case feeder consistently rotates produce a lot of noise and AMP normally will anneal about 50-70 brass from a cold start before it turns the fun on in full mode, which is also quite noisy. It probably can do around 100 brass(depends on caliber) before the induction element over heat which requires 10-20minutes to cool down to continue.
The Dillon case feeder consistently rotates produce a lot of noise and AMP normally will anneal about 50-70 brass from a cold start before it turns the fun on in full mode, which is also quite noisy. It probably can do around 100 brass(depends on caliber) before the induction element over heat which requires 10-20minutes to cool down to continue.
I've done as many as 300 cases at a time ... mid-to-large size (300-BLK to 6.5 to 300 to 338-LM), and my AMP does ratchet up the fan speed after 50-75-ish cases, but I've never had it heat up sufficiently to need to even get close to shutting it down. After hundreds of cases, the exiting fan temperature is still just "slightly warm" at best. If yours is getting sufficiently hot enough after 100 cases to need a shut-down and cool-down ... you should call the AMP guys and discuss it. There's something wrong.
I bit the bullet and got the whole outfit. I’m pretty excited to see the magical easy bake oven robot improve my shooting life
Probably won't matter for the type of shooting most people on the hide partake in. There's some data out there showing it helps for games requiring more precision that most use here.
However, if your goal is consistency, you want everything to be the same every time. When I'm striving for that, I make sure the case is annealed every firing and the inside of the necks are as clean as possible. I'd rather add a lubricant to the necks myself than rely on a random amount of fired carbon that may or may not be consistent from case to case.
What are you adding to the neck?
AMP advised to clean the induction area inside the hole as they suspect the sensor could be dirty causing the hot brass/pilot message showing on the panel.
I will see if it happens next time when I anneal any batch of brass(over 150) requires higher temperature/longer time.
Similar threads
