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I am shooting 338 lapua and 22-250 - how important is it to anneal the brass? How often do you anneal? Do you get it to a dull cherry red or a bright red?
If going by color, from what all I have ever read, it's suppose to be dull red. Bright red is way too hot. I neck size normally, so everytime I full length resize, I anneal, which is about every 4th or 5th firing.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: paulnyc</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I am shooting 338 lapua and 22-250 - how important is it to anneal the brass? How often do you anneal? Do you get it to a dull cherry red or a bright red?
Thanks!!
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Necessary? - no, but I think it is beneficial to accuracy and brass life. Might want to do a search on this subject as there have been some learning published on this site. Also would recommend that you go to 6mmbr and read the articles posted there on anealing.
My method is to use 800F thermal paint with a small strip painted on the inside of the neck. Going by the color of red gives more variation in brass which will cause your shoulders to be all over the place when sizing.
In this article I describe how I do it but I have since gone to 800F instead of 650F. 300wsm w/annealing info
Do you guys anneal after sizing? I have everything I need except for something to spin the case while it's heating. Thinking about getting a cheap variable powered drill to chuck a shell holder to. What kind of setups are you guys using. I don't have $400 to drop out on a brass-o-matic or a ken light.
I don't think it's mandatory, but I also think it can simplify the regulation of neck tension. My brass seldom fails in the neck/shoulder area. It's the primer pockets which open up and doom my cases.
10 years ago I was annealing brass. I gave up. It is less work for me to seek rifles with smaller chamber necks and sizing dies with bigger necks, so there is less work hardening when the brass is sized.
It is easier for me to buy different dies or get dies honed out or hone out die necks myself.
It is easier for me to pay for the "no turn, tight neck" custom reamers.
It is easier for me to buy new brass.
In bottle necked rifle brass, I have had to throw away less than 1% for split necks.
My friend has a couple of 338 laps and he anneals after every 2nd firing.He has a Ken Light machine and annealing has doubled his brass life.He shoots some really hot loads and used to get about 4 reloads out of the unannealed neck sized brass. You'll have to weigh the pros and cons regarding the cost of a machine,but it's really a small price to pay for extending the life of the expensive 338 lap brass. STEVE
Another thing to consider is how hot you run your brass. Some people will blow there primers pockets out way before the usefull life of the brass has diminished.
Another thing is brass will never go down in price. To be able to reload say 100 more case just once is a substantial savings. Basically the more you shoot the more you save.