I am shooting 338 lapua and 22-250 - how important is it to anneal the brass? How often do you anneal? Do you get it to a dull cherry red or a bright red?
Thanks!!
Thanks!!
annealing brass - is it necessary
- Thread starter paulnyc
- Start date
Re: annealing brass - is it necessary
The way i was taught it is more of a golden brown and it only takes about 10 seconds for 50 brass.
After a while you should be able to see the heat line follow the torch down.
I do my 50 brass every time.
~Mike
The way i was taught it is more of a golden brown and it only takes about 10 seconds for 50 brass.
After a while you should be able to see the heat line follow the torch down.
I do my 50 brass every time.
~Mike
Re: annealing brass - is it necessary
I also do my 50 brass between each reload. Other calibers, not much at all. Maybe after 5-7 reloads or a split neck or two.
I also do my 50 brass between each reload. Other calibers, not much at all. Maybe after 5-7 reloads or a split neck or two.
Re: annealing brass - is it necessary
If going by color, from what all I have ever read, it's suppose to be dull red. Bright red is way too hot. I neck size normally, so everytime I full length resize, I anneal, which is about every 4th or 5th firing.
If going by color, from what all I have ever read, it's suppose to be dull red. Bright red is way too hot. I neck size normally, so everytime I full length resize, I anneal, which is about every 4th or 5th firing.
Re: annealing brass - is it necessary
Due to the price of good .338Lm brass I anneal after every second shot. Brass lasts well too.
Due to the price of good .338Lm brass I anneal after every second shot. Brass lasts well too.
Re: annealing brass - is it necessary
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: paulnyc</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I am shooting 338 lapua and 22-250 - how important is it to anneal the brass? How often do you anneal? Do you get it to a dull cherry red or a bright red?
Thanks!!
</div></div>
Necessary? - no, but I think it is beneficial to accuracy and brass life. Might want to do a search on this subject as there have been some learning published on this site. Also would recommend that you go to 6mmbr and read the articles posted there on anealing.
My method is to use 800F thermal paint with a small strip painted on the inside of the neck. Going by the color of red gives more variation in brass which will cause your shoulders to be all over the place when sizing.
In this article I describe how I do it but I have since gone to 800F instead of 650F. 300wsm w/annealing info
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: paulnyc</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I am shooting 338 lapua and 22-250 - how important is it to anneal the brass? How often do you anneal? Do you get it to a dull cherry red or a bright red?
Thanks!!
</div></div>
Necessary? - no, but I think it is beneficial to accuracy and brass life. Might want to do a search on this subject as there have been some learning published on this site. Also would recommend that you go to 6mmbr and read the articles posted there on anealing.
My method is to use 800F thermal paint with a small strip painted on the inside of the neck. Going by the color of red gives more variation in brass which will cause your shoulders to be all over the place when sizing.
In this article I describe how I do it but I have since gone to 800F instead of 650F. 300wsm w/annealing info
Re: annealing brass - is it necessary
Do you guys anneal after sizing? I have everything I need except for something to spin the case while it's heating. Thinking about getting a cheap variable powered drill to chuck a shell holder to. What kind of setups are you guys using. I don't have $400 to drop out on a brass-o-matic or a ken light.
Do you guys anneal after sizing? I have everything I need except for something to spin the case while it's heating. Thinking about getting a cheap variable powered drill to chuck a shell holder to. What kind of setups are you guys using. I don't have $400 to drop out on a brass-o-matic or a ken light.
Re: annealing brass - is it necessary
I don't think it's mandatory, but I also think it can simplify the regulation of neck tension. My brass seldom fails in the neck/shoulder area. It's the primer pockets which open up and doom my cases.
I don't think it's mandatory, but I also think it can simplify the regulation of neck tension. My brass seldom fails in the neck/shoulder area. It's the primer pockets which open up and doom my cases.
Re: annealing brass - is it necessary
Before I knew anything about annealing, I blew some 300 H&H brass apart while trying to fire form it. So now I do.
Before I knew anything about annealing, I blew some 300 H&H brass apart while trying to fire form it. So now I do.
Re: annealing brass - is it necessary
10 years ago I was annealing brass.
I gave up.
It is less work for me to seek rifles with smaller chamber necks and sizing dies with bigger necks, so there is less work hardening when the brass is sized.
It is easier for me to buy different dies or get dies honed out or hone out die necks myself.
It is easier for me to pay for the "no turn, tight neck" custom reamers.
It is easier for me to buy new brass.
In bottle necked rifle brass, I have had to throw away less than 1% for split necks.
10 years ago I was annealing brass.
I gave up.
It is less work for me to seek rifles with smaller chamber necks and sizing dies with bigger necks, so there is less work hardening when the brass is sized.
It is easier for me to buy different dies or get dies honed out or hone out die necks myself.
It is easier for me to pay for the "no turn, tight neck" custom reamers.
It is easier for me to buy new brass.
In bottle necked rifle brass, I have had to throw away less than 1% for split necks.
Re: annealing brass - is it necessary
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Fuzzball</div><div class="ubbcode-body">No offense intended but it's "easier" to just shoot factory ammo.
For those of us who enjoy reloading at least partially for the challenge itself, not everything is cost driven. </div></div>
yeah if you're rich!
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Fuzzball</div><div class="ubbcode-body">No offense intended but it's "easier" to just shoot factory ammo.
For those of us who enjoy reloading at least partially for the challenge itself, not everything is cost driven. </div></div>
yeah if you're rich!
Re: annealing brass - is it necessary
My friend has a couple of 338 laps and he anneals after every 2nd firing.He has a Ken Light machine and annealing has doubled his brass life.He shoots some really hot loads and used to get about 4 reloads out of the unannealed neck sized brass.
You'll have to weigh the pros and cons regarding the cost of a machine,but it's really a small price to pay for extending the life of the expensive 338 lap brass.
STEVE
My friend has a couple of 338 laps and he anneals after every 2nd firing.He has a Ken Light machine and annealing has doubled his brass life.He shoots some really hot loads and used to get about 4 reloads out of the unannealed neck sized brass.
You'll have to weigh the pros and cons regarding the cost of a machine,but it's really a small price to pay for extending the life of the expensive 338 lap brass.
STEVE
Re: annealing brass - is it necessary
Another thing to consider is how hot you run your brass. Some people will blow there primers pockets out way before the usefull life of the brass has diminished.
Another thing is brass will never go down in price. To be able to reload say 100 more case just once is a substantial savings.
Basically the more you shoot the more you save.
Another thing to consider is how hot you run your brass. Some people will blow there primers pockets out way before the usefull life of the brass has diminished.
Another thing is brass will never go down in price. To be able to reload say 100 more case just once is a substantial savings.
Basically the more you shoot the more you save.
