• Watch Out for Scammers!

    We've now added a color code for all accounts. Orange accounts are new members, Blue are full members, and Green are Supporters. If you get a message about a sale from an orange account, make sure you pay attention before sending any money!

Annealing first time results--Hornady kit

fish30114

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Nov 14, 2010
391
0
53
Canton Georgia
Well, I have gone a long time reloading and never gotten into annealing. I have been researching the various MO's out there, and being in a cash crunch for a while, I decided to start with the Hornady annealing kit.

It is simply 3 holders that are basically 1/4" shanks attached to what amounts to a round piece of metal about 1.75-2" long and 3/4" in diameter (aluminum I think) that are drilled to hold various case sizes. The 'kit' comes with a bottle of Templaq 475 degree heat indicating paint, and you paint a stripe around the case just below the shoulder, and then you rotate your case in the holder, with the holder in your cordless screwdriver or whatever to spin it, and hold the tip of the flame from your torch on the neck, and when the Templaq disintegrates, the instructions tell you to tip the case into water--which I did/do.

The interesting thing to me is the significant difference in the amount of springback in brass after annealing. My first batch was 40 +/- Win WSM cases. After firing, 4th time in this rifle, Factory fired once, plus 3 times reloaded the case head to datum measurement (with a stoney point gage on Mitutoya calipers) read something like 1.7655-1.766. When sizing with a Full lenght die on the fired brass, which I had previously set up to set the shoulder back right at 2 thousandths, the brass would wind up at 1.764 or 1.7645 (1/2 ten thou capable dig. calipers) petty darn consistently, with an ocassional case coming in at 1.7635.

When I sized the annealed cases, they would wind up at 1.762 or 1.7625 pretty consistently. A few cases did NOT, they wound up at more like the un-anneled batch, coming back at 1.764 or 1.7635...I figured I didn't hold these in the heat long enough, and just didn't get them actually annealed.

After annealing the cases I didn't feel I got annealed the first try again, they followed suit with the ones that I must HAVE gotten annealed in the first try, springing back less, and maybe even springing back a little LESS even than the 'got em right on the first try batch'.

I suppose this is the whole point of the annealing process, I now wonder how deep is the rabbit hole? Does the fact that these will spring back less change my neck tension--on the surface of course it will, but.....since the neck material is actually softer than before, does it open more easily and yield a similar amount of resistance to bullet release than a case with less measurable neck tension--dimensionally--but a more hardened material?? e.g. a non annealed case, that when sized, the neck springs back more, and is dimensionally larger than the annealed case in terms of ID....

I imagine that folks have checked with a gage of sort to actually measure the pulling force required to pull a bullet--just wonder what the scoop is.

Hope this didn't keep somebody from making a cup of coffee while reading--maybe there is some useful intel here
confused.gif
 
Re: Annealing first time results--Hornady kit

Yes you did stop me making a cup of coffee... damn you

To be honest, I havnt looked into it THAT much as i soon intend on automating my annealing with a machine, just to keep everything the same.

Im not too sure if there is a point at which neck tension becomes its least... like, does over annealed brass become too soft at the neck compared to normally annealed brass in which case yes tension would be different.

But if the only difference between over, properly, and under annealed cases is the degree at which amount of the case is annealed (whole case vs neck only), then in that case tensions should be similar.

So what im saying is, if you anneal a neck by hand, and then the next one slightly less then the first you should still achieve better results than if your werent to anneal at all.

Ive come to realise that annealing by hand, especially with a drill, can bring in a few variables.

- Changes in annealed location (neck vs neck & shoulder)
- Changes in angle of applied heat
- Changes in area of the flame used (inside vs outside flame)
- Time applied to each case

I am at the stage where I do not use tempilaq any more. I simply do this all by eye, in proper lighting conditions. It takes a little time to get used to but is great once you know what your looking for. Tempilaq leaves some nasty marks on the cases I have found.
 
Re: Annealing first time results--Hornady kit

Good read,

I have noticed the Tempilaq leaving a residue on the case also. So i took some of the wife's finger nail polish remover (acetone) and it comes right off.

xdeano
 
Re: Annealing first time results--Hornady kit

Sorry for the cup o'Joe vman, I'll owe you a cup--MAY actually be in Melbourne for a new business venture in late April-early May, if so and you are from there I'll buy you a cup...

It does make sense that it's better to try then not to--I agree with you on that general concept. I am very interested in a Ken Light annealer...if I can figure a way to earn a $ again, I'll try one--automated has got to be a better mousetrap.

xdeano, good intel on the acetone, I have gotten the templaq a little heavy a couple of times, and you are right, it leaves a nasty gook on there!

I'd be interested in opinons on those that have a Ken Light or other high quality annealer......
 
Re: Annealing first time results--Hornady kit

Guys, you just taught me that it's possible - and maybe even practical - to anneal by hand rather than spring for those expensive machines. The lesson is much appreciated!

Especially that being musician in one of my past lives, I'm quite used to metronome (even have it installed in both iPod and Blackberry
wink.gif
) - so maintaining consistent annealing time shouldn't be too tough!
 
Re: Annealing first time results--Hornady kit

Mouse, I think you have a good thought there, keeping a good count and timing is important for sure, once I get a few done with the Templaq, I get a count going in my head, and then do the other cases to a count without the Templaq.

Sitting my i-Phone on the table and using a metronome or timer is good idea though!
 
Re: Annealing first time results--Hornady kit

Fish, i hope your business venture in melbourne works out for you. We really do have a lovely city.
 
Re: Annealing first time results--Hornady kit

One thing I've "discovered"(as if 1000s before me haven't discovered the same thing) is how clean the brass should be prior to start. Residue left from firing keeps the area from getting a consistent, even heat. Simple point: "Clean-em-first". For me speed is secondary to good results, the stand in the water knock over technique, heating one side etc., works for some, but is the least desireable method I can think of. The speed at which the brass comes to temp appears to have an effect, ie. the Ken Light- multi torch set-up. Several different sources have been working on an induction heating coil annealer-if they would ever get it to market, they can put me on the top of their list-fast, perfect heat distribution, and no problem to use even in the summer, as the business end is less than 1in around.
 
Re: Annealing first time results--Hornady kit

Guys, I like the idea of Hornady annealing kit - but it doesn't have a "holder" big enough for 338 Lapua.

If you anneal 338 Lapua cases using this Hornady approach - what do you use to hold the case?

Amok!, did you have any luck milling the proper holders? If so - can you mill one for me for 338LM? <span style="font-style: italic">I know how - had the training back when - but I've no access to "heavy machinery" now, so can't use that skill (assuming it hasn't evaporated with time yet).
frown.gif
</span>

Tnx!
 
Re: Annealing first time results--Hornady kit

<span style="font-weight: bold">QUOTE:</span> <span style="font-style: italic">"If you anneal 338 Lapua cases using this Hornady approach - what do you use to hold the case?"</span>


By using 1/4" drive or 3/8" drive, deep wall sockets plus a drive adapter, there isn't a case that couldn't be spun & annealed, all the way up to and including a .50 BMG. The case need not not be a tight fit in the socket.

Here's an article worth reading: http://blog.sinclairintl.com/2011/01/12/case-neck-annealing-part-ii/
 
Re: Annealing first time results--Hornady kit

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: RollerCam</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><span style="font-weight: bold">QUOTE:</span> <span style="font-style: italic">"If you anneal 338 Lapua cases using this Hornady approach - what do you use to hold the case?"</span>

By using 1/4" drive or 3/8" drive, deep wall sockets plus a drive adapter, there isn't a case that couldn't be spun & annealed, all the way up to and including a .50 BMG. The case need not not be a tight fit in the socket.</div></div>
Nice!!

If you happen to know (so I don't go through my deep wall sockets trying to find the best fit
smile.gif
), what size socket would be the best for 338 LM? I guess it should fit closely enough that the case would rotate with the socket - but loose enough that it would fall out quickly when I point the socket down... The inner diameter should be - I guess - around 0.6"? But which socket is it?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Here's an article worth reading: http://blog.sinclairintl.com/2011/01/12/case-neck-annealing-part-ii/</div></div>
Yes, great articles! Thank you!