After i have fired my cases in what order do i start to anneal cleaning sizing etc. What are the number of times should i fire a 308 and 338 lapua before i start to anneal? Thanks in advance for the info.
- Thread starter patrick021
- Start date
here is the way i do it
there are many way or steps in a different order than i do it.
1. Size/De cap.
2. Clean.
3. Trim/De bur. if needed.
4. Uniform primer pocket.
5. anneal.
6. weigh sort brass. not necessary
7. load.
all depends on what you are trying to achieve.
i anneal after every firing. not necessary but i have the equipment to do it.
Like i said there are many different way to do this. this is the way i do it.
there are many way or steps in a different order than i do it.
1. Size/De cap.
2. Clean.
3. Trim/De bur. if needed.
4. Uniform primer pocket.
5. anneal.
6. weigh sort brass. not necessary
7. load.
all depends on what you are trying to achieve.
i anneal after every firing. not necessary but i have the equipment to do it.
Like i said there are many different way to do this. this is the way i do it.
Some say after every 4-5 times but I do it every time.
Doesn't hurt to do it every time, as long as you have the time to do it. I anneal for brass life only. I have no data that suggests that annealing improves my accuracy. But if it enables me to get an unlimited amount of firings out of lapua 338 brass at $2.50 a piece, I am gonna do it every time.
I anneal before I size, because the way I see it, sizing is the reason for annealing.
I anneal before I size, because the way I see it, sizing is the reason for annealing.
What method are you guys using to anneal? Do you recommend the Giraud machine?
Here's what I do on every cycle, tumble,deprime,anneal,lube and FL size, tumble, trim/deburr, load. I use a Bench Source machine and have been using it for the last 2 years. I anneal 8 different calibers and the change over process is very easy ( just kept settings logged) and it repeats. I have 308 WW cases that are on their 14th cycle and 338 on it's 7th Does it improve accuracy? Haven't noticed but my brass sure does last longer.
thanks
Patrick021,
I would disagree with joe on the first step because of a technical issue. I only deprime the brass prior to cleaning, then anneal and then move on to the resizing process. When resizing, you are working the brass (cold forming). If it has become brittle with prior use, the stretching that occurs with this action reduces the longevity of your brass. This is noted when you have case necks split during the resizing step. Annealing is employed to realign the crystalline structure of the brass facilitating reforming it to desired dimensions. My argument here is because this is what I do for the most expensive brass I use (.50 BMG & 408 CT) or when converting brass for obsolete cartridges. I use a universal depriming die for most rifle cartridges. Using the depriming die does not require the cases to be cleaned or lubed. Saves me time at the reloading bench.
I would disagree with joe on the first step because of a technical issue. I only deprime the brass prior to cleaning, then anneal and then move on to the resizing process. When resizing, you are working the brass (cold forming). If it has become brittle with prior use, the stretching that occurs with this action reduces the longevity of your brass. This is noted when you have case necks split during the resizing step. Annealing is employed to realign the crystalline structure of the brass facilitating reforming it to desired dimensions. My argument here is because this is what I do for the most expensive brass I use (.50 BMG & 408 CT) or when converting brass for obsolete cartridges. I use a universal depriming die for most rifle cartridges. Using the depriming die does not require the cases to be cleaned or lubed. Saves me time at the reloading bench.
Did you ever get an answer on that annealing machine, I would like to know. Best bang for the money.
Drill, torch, socket, dark room. Works great!
