Any Ford techs here?

[Bantam1]

If there are any Ford Techs here or someone with access to wiring diagrams on Chilton On Demand or whatever the new flavor is these days. I could use a little help.

My 2007 Ford Ranger 4.0 is giving me a headache with the A/C. Trying to chase down what is going on. Long story short I had to replace the compressor and along with that I changed the orifice tube and receiver drier. Had the system charged, held a vacuum and worked well for about a week. Clutch wont turn on. I jumped the pressure switches, checked the relay, checked for voltage at the clutch and all good. The odd thing was with the key on, engine off the voltage at the clutch is about 7v. Engine on I am getting 14v.

When I jump the switches the idle speed increase but the clutch won't turn on. Clutch is new with the compressor. Air gap is within spec (.020") on the clutch. I swapped the relay with a known good relay from another location in the fuse block/box. I think there could a ground issue, or maybe it's an issue with the PCM not turning on the ground? It's pissing me off. Especially since I used to be a tech (Toyota and ASE master).

I found an older model wiring diagram but wire colors are not the same and also I am not sure if the system is the same. Trying to find a diagram to help me chase down all of the electrical first. Any help would be appreciated. Also if there are any specific Ranger known issues like this I would appreciate the heads up. Next will be this damn small EVAP leak/code...

 

[Michael Stoughton]

Ground wire to - battery

 

[Alphatreedog]

Don't know , interested as it's new and good luck .

 

[S197]

https://parts.ford.com/shop/en/us

you can pull parts diagrams from the above site.

 

[S197]

How long has it been since the ac went out? When you replace the evap, replace the expansion valve.

 

[Hobo Hilton]

If there are any Ford Techs here or someone with access to wiring diagrams on Chilton On Demand or whatever the new flavor is these days. I could use a little help.

My 2007 Ford Ranger 4.0 is giving me a headache with the A/C. Trying to chase down what is going on. Long story short I had to replace the compressor and along with that I changed the orifice tube and receiver drier. Had the system charged, held a vacuum and worked well for about a week. Clutch wont turn on. I jumped the pressure switches, checked the relay, checked for voltage at the clutch and all good. The odd thing was with the key on, engine off the voltage at the clutch is about 7v. Engine on I am getting 14v.

When I jump the switches the idle speed increase but the clutch won't turn on. Clutch is new with the compressor. Air gap is within spec (.020") on the clutch. I swapped the relay with a known good relay from another location in the fuse block/box. I think there could a ground issue, or maybe it's an issue with the PCM not turning on the ground? It's pissing me off. Especially since I used to be a tech (Toyota and ASE master).

I found an older model wiring diagram but wire colors are not the same and also I am not sure if the system is the same. Trying to find a diagram to help me chase down all of the electrical first. Any help would be appreciated. Also if there are any specific Ranger known issues like this I would appreciate the heads up. Next will be this damn small EVAP leak/code...

Take that question over here.... Great guy's, willing to help.

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Hobo

 

[n2ishun]

How long has it been since the ac went out? When you replace the evap, replace the expansion valve.

orifice tube = expansion valve
same/same

You said you replaced the compressor ?
Was it painted ?
I seem to remember the ground wire from the clutch just screwing to the compressor housing.
Check dat.
Betcha that silver paint is fuxoring you.

 

[mtrmn]

Check the comp clutch coil winding for continuity, I've seen a few new ones that didn't have any.

IME it's most likely the GEM-Generic Electronic Module- otherwise known as a body computer. It probably reached its expiration date and decided to quit grounding some relay circuit. All this electronic shit is great until it isn't. I just replaced one on a 98 Ranger a couple weeks ago. Had to get a rebuilt one on ebay.

I'll try to find a wiring diagram later tonight.

OP check your PMs

 

[JoshPutman]

Walk around to the front of the truck, and look at the grille right in the center. You have now identified the issue.



I'll see myself out.

 

[MarshallDodge]

Do you have 14V across the compressor coil?

What happens if you apply 12V directly to the coil?

 

[Bradu]

If it worked for a week and no longer works, the system probably has a leak and is low on r134. Holding a vacuum doesn't mean it will hold pressure. I've seen it too many times where it will pass a leak test and leak as soon as you charge the system.