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Anybody have the new Primary Arms 5-25x56 Athena BPR?

brandonatrz

Private
Minuteman
Dec 23, 2022
10
3
Utah
I'm selling my Viper PST 5-25 MOA and switching to something MRAD. I have a couple Primary Arms scopes and they have been phenomenal. The reticles they design are the best. That said, I'm considering grabbing the new 5-25x56 ACSS Athena BPR for a long range (1000+) 6.5 Creed bolt gun, but would like input from anyone who has one.

Is it as clear as the Vortex Viper PST at full magnification? Would I be happy with the PA or should I get the MRAD version of the Viper PST instead?

I like the ACSS Athena BPR reticle a lot more than the EBR-7C
 
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I’ve been eyeballing one for a couple months… But haven’t pulled the trigger yet. If the glass is anything like my SLx 1-10x28 LPVO, then I’d say it’s a winner for the money. I’ve been beyond impressed with my LPVO. So much so, that before my PA Bonus Bucks expired, I bought another one with the 12% off Christmas coupon. Ended up saving like $150 on it. Haven’t put the 2nd one on anything yet, but it’s sitting there in the box for when I need it. 👍🏼
 
I’ve been eyeballing one for a couple months… But haven’t pulled the trigger yet. If the glass is anything like my SLx 1-10x28 LPVO, then I’d say it’s a winner for the money. I’ve been beyond impressed with my LPVO. So much so, that before my PA Bonus Bucks expired, I bought another one with the 12% off Christmas coupon. Ended up saving like $150 on it. Haven’t put the 2nd one on anything yet, but it’s sitting there in the box for when I need it. 👍🏼
I also have a 1-6 PA LPVO that I've beat the ever living hell out of on my go-to AR. It's been awesome. I just bought the 4-14x44 R-grid to put on a DMR build I did in 6mm ARC. Maybe I'll go try to stretch that one out and if it holds, I'll do it.

I'm being told to save my money for a Leupold Mark 5, but spending $2k makes me sick when a PA can do 80-90% of what it can as long as it holds zero under abuse. I have the Vortex Viper that was really good, so if I don't do the PA I'll get the MRAD version of the Viper
 
I’ve had several of their scopes with the Athena reticle. Just not a fan of it. The center chevron is stupid and I don’t like the dots around the center of the reticle, which are .2 mils apart. It is just confusing for me.
 
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I just picked up a 6-30 Athena PLx on Friday, and I have to say it is worth the extra $$ over the SLx or GLx on glass clarity and fit and finish alone.
 
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Had the Athena reticle on a 4-16 GLX. Didn't really work well for precision shooting but I thought it was decent for a MPVO. Literally just sold the scope and picking up a Bushnell Match Pro
 
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Had the Athena reticle on a 4-16 GLX. Didn't really work well for precision shooting but I thought it was decent for a MPVO. Literally just sold the scope and picking up a Bushnell Match Pro
What didn't work about precision shooting with that reticle?
 
I'm selling my Viper PST 5-25 MOA and switching to something MRAD. I have a couple Primary Arms scopes and they have been phenomenal. The reticles they design are the best. That said, I'm considering grabbing the new 5-25x56 ACSS Athena BPR for a long range (1000+) 6.5 Creed bolt gun, but would like input from anyone who has one.

Is it as clear as the Vortex Viper PST at full magnification? Would I be happy with the PA or should I get the MRAD version of the Viper PST instead?

I like the ACSS Athena BPR reticle a lot more than the EBR-7C
Thank you for your support and the kind words! Our team/engineers works closely together to come up with the reticles that is user friendly for everyone!

Our 5-25x56 ACSS Athena BPR for long range is one of our popular model up to 1000+. With generous 4" eye relieve, compact design under 14" OAL and weighing just at 34.6 oz. While the 56mm objective lens allows for greater light transmission resulting in an improved exit pupil and better clarity when dialed in at the highest magnification.

Let us know if you have anymore questions that we can help answering!
 
Thank you for your support and the kind words! Our team/engineers works closely together to come up with the reticles that is user friendly for everyone!

Our 5-25x56 ACSS Athena BPR for long range is one of our popular model up to 1000+. With generous 4" eye relieve, compact design under 14" OAL and weighing just at 34.6 oz. While the 56mm objective lens allows for greater light transmission resulting in an improved exit pupil and better clarity when dialed in at the highest magnification.

Let us know if you have anymore questions that we can help answering!
The instructor for the long range precision classes I'm taking has had 2-3 students have issues with GLx or PLx scopes holding zero even after having them replaced under warranty and ultimately switched to a leupold or nightforce. I was very disappointed to hear that as I was close to pulling the trigger on the new 5-25 Athena BPR.

Have you had issues with new scopes losing zero in the past couple years? Any issues from customers who've recently grabbed one? If so, how was it addressed or has it been fixed?
 
If I were budget minded, and buying a Chinese scope, I would probably look long and hard at the Arken offerings.
At least the tracking is guaranteed.
I'd rather sacrifice a little on glass to have bomb proof tracking, then have a better picture to see that I'm missing because the scope isn't tracking or holding zero.
reports are, the glass is actually prety decent.

 
If I were budget minded, and buying a Chinese scope, I would probably look long and hard at the Arken offerings.
At least the tracking is guaranteed.
I'd rather sacrifice a little on glass to have bomb proof tracking, then have a better picture to see that I'm missing because the scope isn't tracking or holding zero.
reports are, the glass is actually prety decent.

I've never seen this piece of glass. Thank you for the recommendation
 
Thank you for your support and the kind words! Our team/engineers works closely together to come up with the reticles that is user friendly for everyone!

Our 5-25x56 ACSS Athena BPR for long range is one of our popular model up to 1000+. With generous 4" eye relieve, compact design under 14" OAL and weighing just at 34.6 oz. While the 56mm objective lens allows for greater light transmission resulting in an improved exit pupil and better clarity when dialed in at the highest magnification.

Let us know if you have anymore questions that we can help answering!
Since you folks are around on here, I think my only feedback from my initial range day is that I would love to see push/pull locking turrets on this and your other product lines. not sure how difficult an engineering ask that is, but it makes a huge difference for confidence from the end user.

I should add, the only feature/critical feedback, the glass was excellent, and passed a box track test flawlessly
 
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The instructor for the long range precision classes I'm taking has had 2-3 students have issues with GLx or PLx scopes holding zero even after having them replaced under warranty and ultimately switched to a leupold or nightforce. I was very disappointed to hear that as I was close to pulling the trigger on the new 5-25 Athena BPR.

Have you had issues with new scopes losing zero in the past couple years? Any issues from customers who've recently grabbed one? If so, how was it addressed or has it been fixed?
Which class. I would like to reach out to the instructor and get more info. The GLx long range scopes have our newer patented steel on steel turrets and once set properly there should be no shift. The PLx long range models have been out for years and have been proven solid.
 
What didn't work about precision shooting with that reticle?
Finding the tip of the chevron was a little hard depending on lighting and aligning the height/thickness of chevron was some times an issue. Worked fine for shooting steel silhouettes, etc...but if I were shooting for groups or smaller targets, I'd rather have a fine dot. For fast shooting, I do prefer the chevron though.
 
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I've never seen this piece of glass. Thank you for the recommendation
I haven't looked through the SLX 5-25x56 but if the GLX is supposed to be a step above that in glass/turrets, then I can tell you the EP5 is definitely ahead of the SLX and has a lower MSRP. Biggest complaint about the EP5 is weight(almost 40oz). Though, if you want a chevron reticle, PA is basically your best option.
 
I haven't looked through the SLX 5-25x56 but if the GLX is supposed to be a step above that in glass/turrets, then I can tell you the EP5 is definitely ahead of the SLX and has a lower MSRP. Biggest complaint about the EP5 is weight(almost 40oz). Though, if you want a chevron reticle, PA is basically your best option.
The new Slx 5-25 is a all new design from us. Our first SLx with 34mm tube, For anyone that wants try try one you get free shipping and free returns for up to 90 days if you don't want to keep it.
 
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Which class. I would like to reach out to the instructor and get more info. The GLx long range scopes have our newer patented steel on steel turrets and once set properly there should be no shift. The PLx long range models have been out for years and have been proven solid.
Bryce Bergen. He runs/owns Long Range Shooters of Utah
 
I haven't looked through the SLX 5-25x56 but if the GLX is supposed to be a step above that in glass/turrets, then I can tell you the EP5 is definitely ahead of the SLX and has a lower MSRP. Biggest complaint about the EP5 is weight(almost 40oz). Though, if you want a chevron reticle, PA is basically your best option.
I've been watching some comparison videos of the EP5 to others and I am extremely impressed. It was obvious even from the video the tracking was clearly more audible, tactile and precise than the PA SLx 6-24 he had next to it and it beat the Sig Tango 6 by a mile.

For weight concerns, Arken just released a lightweight version that uses the same construction as the EP5 in the turrets but they shaved out some of the steel and made the windage no longer exposed (much less material there).

I am glad somebody mentioned Arken here, I may go that route.
 
For weight concerns, Arken just released a lightweight version that uses the same construction as the EP5 in the turrets but they shaved out some of the steel and made the windage no longer exposed (much less material there).
There's already a thread about the EP4L and so far, it seems that the EP5 still beats it out as far as IQ goes. If you can spend a little more, the Bushnell Pro Match ED has been getting really great reviews and the Vortex LHTs are worth a consideration at a higher price point.
 
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Finally connected with Bryce Bergen from Long Range Shooters of Utah. I like his class offerings!! He does remember two failures. One that was a repeat. He didn't remember the models but did remember one reticle breaking loose. That was probably a Slx 4-14X,. The OEM changed an assemble procedure that had to be corrected. It was and we sold many thousands. That scope design goes back to the BSA days and is now being phased out at $199. So I am not sure which scope failed but our goal is none at any price point. Scopes like our new GLx long range offerings and the new PlxC 1-8 were developed after we put in our in house engineering team around 7 years ago. They go though at least a year long development schedule that includes thousands of rounds of live fire testing. New SLcx offereings go through similar testing but do not have the steel on steel turrets or glass quality of GLx/ PLX
 
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Now back to why the horseshoe question on the Athena and Apollo. They are long range BDC reticles. The chevron is very small so if you are dialing at high magnification it will act like a single dot. At shorter distance, dialed down, it gives precision aiming point on small targets. Not the same reticle but image below show chevron over a 1MOA dot. There will be a new Mil based dialing reticle (Neptune) in the scope next with a .1 Mil center dot.

Video showing it in use





thumbnail_950766C7-37B4-489A-B933-CB1FF7A7C8E5.jpg
 
Thank you for your support and the kind words! Our team/engineers works closely together to come up with the reticles that is user friendly for everyone!

Our 5-25x56 ACSS Athena BPR for long range is one of our popular model up to 1000+. With generous 4" eye relieve, compact design under 14" OAL and weighing just at 34.6 oz. While the 56mm objective lens allows for greater light transmission resulting in an improved exit pupil and better clarity when dialed in at the highest magnification.

Let us know if you have anymore questions that we can help answering!
The glass in my SLx 1-10x28 is extremely clear and bright. Are y’all using Japanese ED glass in the SLx and GLx series scopes, like the Arken EP5 that is in that same price and features category? I’m only asking because it doesn’t list glass origin on your optics.

Also, any future chances of getting an SLx 1-10x28 34mm with the ACSS Griffin M10S MIL reticle with an exposed locking elevation turret w/zero-stop, and FFP reticle? Would love to have a couple of them. 👍🏼
 
I also have a 1-6 PA LPVO that I've beat the ever living hell out of on my go-to AR. It's been awesome. I just bought the 4-14x44 R-grid to put on a DMR build I did in 6mm ARC. Maybe I'll go try to stretch that one out and if it holds, I'll do it.

I'm being told to save my money for a Leupold Mark 5, but spending $2k makes me sick when a PA can do 80-90% of what it can as long as it holds zero under abuse. I have the Vortex Viper that was really good, so if I don't do the PA I'll get the MRAD version of the Viper
I had a 3.6-18x44 mk5. I think for the money it was a terrible scope lol . 5-25 maybe a different story. Viewing image was tiny, eyebox was terribly tight. Depth of field was extremely shallow. Ca wasn’t great. Had maybe 1000 dollar glass on a good day. Just my opinion. For that money I would bet my money on the stiener t6. Plenty of scopes cheaper that are decent if budget is tight
 
I've never seen this piece of glass. Thank you for the recommendation
I had a ep5 in the flesh the glass was very nice for the money. Was better than my bushnell elite ers 3.5-21x50. Which was almost a 2k scope back in the day. Only downfall was the thing weighs a ton. If that’s a issue.
 
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I had a ep5 in the flesh the glass was very nice for the money. Was better than my bushnell elite ers 3.5-21x50. Which was almost a 2k scope back in the day. Only downfall was the thing weighs a ton. If that’s a issue.
That really is the only negative to the EP5, is the weight. That thing is a tank! But, if I could have it my way, I’d keep everything the exact same, but offer a 5-25x50mm option for those who don’t want the huge 56mm objective for certain types of rifles that don’t need one that size (rimfire, AR, target, etc…). I have an EPL4, but it’s not quite the same thing as the EP5, as it only has 8 MIL turrets & a 30mm tube. I’d prefer to have the 10 MIL & 34mm of the EP5, even if that does add some extra weight to it.
 
That really is the only negative to the EP5, is the weight. That thing is a tank! But, if I could have it my way, I’d keep everything the exact same, but offer a 5-25x50mm option for those who don’t want the huge 56mm objective for certain types of rifles that don’t need one that size (rimfire, AR, target, etc…). I have an EPL4, but it’s not quite the same thing as the EP5, as it only has 8 MIL turrets & a 30mm tube. I’d prefer to have the 10 MIL & 34mm of the EP5, even if that does add some extra weight to it.
I ended up picking up an Arken EP5 on a screaming deal from some bargain bin place that didn't know what it was (took it for $260). Then I found somebody willing to trade me the MRAD Viper PST in exchange for mine in MOA.

I am very impressed with the clarity and especially the very precise turret tracking of the EP5.

Next rifle I build I might try the PA 5-25 with Athena BPR.
 
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That really is the only negative to the EP5, is the weight. That thing is a tank! But, if I could have it my way, I’d keep everything the exact same, but offer a 5-25x50mm option for those who don’t want the huge 56mm objective for certain types of rifles that don’t need one that size (rimfire, AR, target, etc…). I have an EPL4, but it’s not quite the same thing as the EP5, as it only has 8 MIL turrets & a 30mm tube. I’d prefer to have the 10 MIL & 34mm of the EP5, even if that does add some extra weight to it.
Yeah damn thing reminds me of a razor gen ii weight wise
 
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I ended up picking up an Arken EP5 on a screaming deal from some bargain bin place that didn't know what it was (took it for $260). Then I found somebody willing to trade me the MRAD Viper PST in exchange for mine in MOA.

I am very impressed with the clarity and especially the very precise turret tracking of the EP5.

Next rifle I build I might try the PA 5-25 with Athena BPR.
Yea it’s hard to beat that scope if you are on a budget and don’t might the added weight !
 
I jut tried to zero my new 5-25-56, however the zero stop is preventing me, I'm 8" high and dialed down to the zero stop. Other scopes allow adjusting the zero stop but I can't find any info on this PA scope to change it. Any help appreciated. Thanks.
 
I jut tried to zero my new 5-25-56, however the zero stop is preventing me, I'm 8" high and dialed down to the zero stop. Other scopes allow adjusting the zero stop but I can't find any info on this PA scope to change it. Any help appreciated. Thanks.
Have you tried reading the user manual?
I just looked at it. Seems pretty simple.
Release the zero stop.
If you have a canted base, you may not be able to get a 100 yard zero.
 
Have you tried reading the user manual?
I just looked at it. Seems pretty simple.
Release the zero stop.
If you have a canted base, you may not be able to get a 100 yard zero.
Yes, I read it. It specifically says DO NOT adjust the zero stop until you are completely zeroed. Boldfaced print. I am not completely zeroed. I sent a support request to PA, waiting for their reply. Was just wondering if anyone else went thru this same thing.
 
The first thing I do when I zero a scope is release that zero stop and only get it set once I'm zero'd where I want.

I don't see why that would matter or why PA would specifically say not to touch it until you are zero'd..... adjusting the zero stop is part of zeroing 🤨
 
Yes, I read it. It specifically says DO NOT adjust the zero stop until you are completely zeroed. Boldfaced print. I am not completely zeroed. I sent a support request to PA, waiting for their reply. Was just wondering if anyone else went thru this same thin
Sorry! Manual should be clearer. If you don't have enough elevation to zero you are either bottomed out or do need to adjust to give you more elevation. PM a phone number and I will walk you through it.
 
Yes, I read it. It specifically says DO NOT adjust the zero stop until you are completely zeroed. Boldfaced print. I am not completely zeroed. I sent a support request to PA, waiting for their reply. Was just wondering if anyone else went thru this same thing.
obviously, you need to release the zero stop to get your final adjustment.
My experience has been that scopes typically do not have the zero stop locked from the factory, apparently they do things differently.
FWIW, that is, in my opinion, poorly written and I certainly can't fault you for following directions.
 
Sorry! Manual should be clearer. If you don't have enough elevation to zero you are either bottomed out or do need to adjust to give you more elevation. PM a phone number and I will walk you through it.
Marsh1, thanks. A rep from primary gave me instructions. Went to the range today and was able to zero elevation? However windage hit it's stop today. Have a few inches to the left I still need to go. Is the procedure for windage similar? The manual mentions nothing about adjusting that.
 
Marsh1, thanks. A rep from primary gave me instructions. Went to the range today and was able to zero elevation? However windage hit it's stop today. Have a few inches to the left I still need to go. Is the procedure for windage similar? The manual mentions nothing about adjusting that.
It would be helpful if you told us about your entire setup, rifle, base, rings etc...
When tightning your rings to the base, be careful, if you run one ring down all the way untill it is tight, you might have your scope angled to one side.
Loosen all lthe screws holding the rings to the base, when you tighten, tighten in increments and alternate between front ring and back ring until they are snug. Watch the body of your scope as you do this, you'll likely see it see saw slightly side to side as you tighten the rings to the base.
There could be other issues, but try this first.
 
Marsh1, thanks. A rep from primary gave me instructions. Went to the range today and was able to zero elevation? However windage hit it's stop today. Have a few inches to the left I still need to go. Is the procedure for windage similar? The manual mentions nothing about adjusting that.
No such adjustment for windage. You should not need it. fday beat me to it in asking about your setup. A picture would also help
 
It would be helpful if you told us about your entire setup, rifle, base, rings etc...
When tightning your rings to the base, be careful, if you run one ring down all the way untill it is tight, you might have your scope angled to one side.
Loosen all lthe screws holding the rings to the base, when you tighten, tighten in increments and alternate between front ring and back ring until they are snug. Watch the body of your scope as you do this, you'll likely see it see saw slightly side to side as you tighten the rings to the base.
There could be other issues, but try this first.
Thanks Gunny, rifle is a Sig Cross STX in 6.5CM. Scope is a PA 5-25-56 and rings are a PA GLx34 Cantilever 0 Moa scope mount. I did alternate when tightening the rings, spacing seems ok, a folded piece of paper fits equally between the ring clams with just a little tension as the paper slips in. I'll loosen and redo just to make sure it's not off side to side. Unless you have another idea what it could be.
 
No such adjustment for windage. You should not need it. fday beat me to it in asking about your setup. A picture would also help

No such adjustment for windage. You should not need it. fday beat me to it in asking about your setup. A picture would also help
Marsh, here's a pic.
 

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Thanks Gunny, rifle is a Sig Cross STX in 6.5CM. Scope is a PA 5-25-56 and rings are a PA GLx34 Cantilever 0 Moa scope mount. I did alternate when tightening the rings, spacing seems ok, a folded piece of paper fits equally between the ring clams with just a little tension as the paper slips in. I'll loosen and redo just to make sure it's not off side to side. Unless you have another idea what it could be.
Is there any particular reason you went with a cantilever mount on a bolt gun?
They can certainly work, but they are typically used on an AR type rifle. (Lots of folks do use them on bolt guns).
Do you have either another rifle to try the scope and mount on, or another known good scope in a set of rings that you can mount on your cross?
What we need to do is find out if it is a rifle problem, a mount problem or a scope problem.
I have had rings that wouldn't fit properly in one picatinny rail, but fit fine in another.
Tolerance stacking is a thing and can be frustrating.
I have had good luck with these and it would be a low cost way to troubleshoot if it is related to the mount.
Amazon product ASIN B0BBLCGF8P
 
Is there any particular reason you went with a cantilever mount on a bolt gun?
They can certainly work, but they are typically used on an AR type rifle. (Lots of folks do use them on bolt guns).
Do you have either another rifle to try the scope and mount on, or another known good scope in a set of rings that you can mount on your cross?
What we need to do is find out if it is a rifle problem, a mount problem or a scope problem.
I have had rings that wouldn't fit properly in one picatinny rail, but fit fine in another.
Tolerance stacking is a thing and can be frustrating.
I have had good luck with these and it would be a low cost way to troubleshoot if it is related to the mount.
Amazon product ASIN B0BBLCGF8P
I went with that mount only because PA recommended it with purchase of the scope. I may just go with your suggestion for those rings, they're just $35 and I've probably spent that already just trying to get on paper. Any suggestion on what profile rings I should get for this scope, low medium or high? (pic above shows scope on the gun now)? Scope is 34mm tube. I used an online calculator and came up with a high profile. Thanks so much for your help. I'm new at scope mounting, but had no problem mounting and zeroing PA's 1-6-24 on my AR but this one has been difficult.
 
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I went with that mount only because PA recommended it with purchase of the scope. I may just go with your suggestion for those rings, they're just $35 and I've probably spent that already just trying to get on paper. Any suggestion on what profile rings I should get for this scope, low medium or high? (pic above shows scope on the gun now)? Scope is 34mm tube. I used an online calculator and came up with a high profile. Thanks so much for your help. I'm new at scope mounting, but had no problem mounting and zeroing PA's 1-6-24 on my AR but this one has been difficult.
Medium would likely be high enough, but since you are running a chassis with an adjustable cheek rest, you could go with high rings. Better safe than sorry.
Good luck.
It will at least eliminate one issue.
When troubleshooting, only change one thing at a time or else you'll never be sure what the problem is.
Have you checked your crown on the barrel?
Keep an open mind, this could be a gun/barrel issue.
 

dukecola The only thing the rings might change is to get you a little lower but from your picture that is not the issue. For the windage to be that far off it would be visible off center. Since you have a bolt gun the easiest thing to do is to remove the bolt and literally boresight it. No ammo or range needed. That will tell me if there is a internal issue with the scope. Glad to get on a call and walk you through that. I would have you start fresh by centering the scope pivot tube and then zero by boresighting.​

 
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