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I started hand forging knives sjortly before I deployed here to Iraq. I have also hand forge welded cable to make some cable damascus blades. I built a forced air propane forge. Get on Bladeforums and look around the knife makers site. They will point you in the right direction.
A hand forge welded cable damascus blade (I hadn't finished it yet in that picture). This was after the quench and acid etching to bring out the cable and various steels in it.
The cable I made the blade from. I used borax as flux.
I made quite a few knives from 52100e that I forged down from 1 1/8" bar stock on a home built pneumatic hammer.
I have forged some damascus from L-6 and 1095 using a treddle hammer to help.
I stared playing with folders but went off to college and haven't played with them since. It's been about 8 years now.
I built a 2 burner venturi propane forge as well.
I still have 10ft or so of 1 1/8" shaft 52100e, 10ft of 3/4" 52100e shaft, and a bunch of 1095 and L-6. Railroad car springs are what I use for 5160 and they are generally free.
Used to forge a bit. I still occasionaly do a batch of knives using the stock removal method. Most files anymore are basicaly junk for making knives from as they aren't good steel all the way through. many today are just mild steel that has been case hardened. If your going to make a knife start with a good quality known steel. Even with all the exotics out there I still think it's tough to beat plian old O-1 for a reliable user friendly steel.
I used the Ron Kinyon plans as a guide from the Prairie Blacksmiths Association for my hammer.
If you are just starting to forge the railroad car springs are great. I need to go pick up a couple dozen so that I have a stockpile if I ever get back into making knives. I'm not sure when that will be though.
I'm planning on replacing all of my kitchen knife handles, I enjoy working with the wood - so if anyone needs a custom knife handle specify your wood and let me know!!
Todays specialty is purple heartwood, Cherry, Pacific Madrone, and Maple.
Anyboyd use Florspar? I hear its agressive and that you should mix it to dilute it...does anybody know with what? Also get a belt grinder. It'll makes things easier...unless you want to use the bench vice and file method. Choice is yours. When using the belt use 60grite then move to 220grite. You can finish it on a buffer later. Make sure not to ruin the temper of the blade!!! Also what kind of tang are planning on putting on?
I've been watching tons of Youtube vids and I think I have the just of it. I already had the idea that a belt grinder and a few other power tools will be a must. Luckily I already have almost everything I need.
Before I posted this I already ordered some S30V, W2, and 01 blanks. They were so cheap that I figured I'd get a couple and try them out to see which steel I like. This isn't something that I'm going to do a lot. I need a good skinning/hunting knife and just can't bring myself to spend $400 on one. All that money goes towards rifles.
As much as I hate the site there's also a really good DIY stock removal thread over in the blade forum at AR15.com. Thanks for the help guys. Would love some more pics.
I was thinking something like this except for a slight recurve and a place to put my index finger. Not sure if the recurve is something to try and tackle on the first knife though....
I agree to check out bladeforums. I learned most of what I needed to get decent results on that forum. Ill post pictures tomorrow but I make fixed blades using stock removal methods. My website is www.bgoodeknives.com if you want to see what I make.
I would say that the recurve wouldn't be the best design for the first knife. Put a trickier handle design on it to flair it up a tad. Use frozen pizza boxes to make designs easily cut out and use to recreate more patterns
5160 is a good starter steel. It was used on american car leaf springs from 1960-1970 i believe. Most junkyards have leaf spring sets labeled and ready to sell.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: rogue308</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I've been watching tons of Youtube vids and I think I have the just of it. I already had the idea that a belt grinder and a few other power tools will be a must. Luckily I already have almost everything I need.
Before I posted this I already ordered some S30V, W2, and 01 blanks. They were so cheap that I figured I'd get a couple and try them out to see which steel I like. This isn't something that I'm going to do a lot. I need a good skinning/hunting knife and just can't bring myself to spend $400 on one. All that money goes towards rifles.
As much as I hate the site there's also a really good DIY stock removal thread over in the blade forum at AR15.com. Thanks for the help guys. Would love some more pics.</div></div>
If that is not hardened already be prepared to pay someone at least $50 to do it. If it is then be sure not to get it too hot or you will ruin the temper and have to send it in.
I once made a knive out of CPM 440V and had to send it off to be hardened as stainless is very hard to do without an oven that is made for it. Carbon steels such as 5160 are easy you just take them up to non-magnetic an quench them.
Like has been said 5160 is also readily available and is sometimes free.
The O-1 and W2 that you have is easy enough to heat trreat yourself. For the other get ahold of Texas Knife Makers Supply. They will do the heat treat on most air hardening steels for about $10-$20 depending on the size.
Woodman I've seen your work and I think you do a beautiful job. I also see that you work with damascus steel. I hear that the more you fold the steel the more even it gets, and the more pure its gets also. Making it more predictable in composition, is this true? How many times do you fold the steel because of this? I also have to ask...have you studied any of the Japanese sword making methods? And if you have did you incorporate any of it to knive making? If you could answer any one of my questions I will be eternally grateful.
I have made a few, maybe 5 or 6. I mostly made skinners and camp knives. I got some flat stock from Lowe's, since I didn't want to spend some money on expensive "knife quality" steel, and find out I didn't like it, or couldn't do it. I actually first started by using an old table saw blade, and cutting out a design with a dremel tool. They work, but don't hold an edge very well. This is one I made with the flat stock, and dyed maple veneer sheets. I'm by no means a knife maker, it's just another hobby on rainy days, but try it and see if you like it. You don't need a ton of tools or expensive ones, I used a dremel, and a belt sander. If you use a dremel, I recommend getting the quick attach adapter and the big reinforced cutting wheels.