Anyone using the PT&G Upper Receiver lapping tool

Glassaholic

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  • Nov 30, 2012
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    I'm about to embark on another large frame build and have looked at the PT&G AR-10 lapping tool and was curious if anyone has used this tool? I've seen reviews of the Weaver one which had some who said they weren't true, that is pretty pathetic in this day and age of CNC machining. PT&G always seems to put out good tooling, but just curious of anyone's experience with these.

    http://pacifictoolandgauge.com/ar-tools/10318-ar-15-upper-receiver-lapping-tool.html
     
    I'm about to embark on another large frame build and have looked at the PT&G AR-10 lapping tool and was curious if anyone has used this tool? I've seen reviews of the Weaver one which had some who said they weren't true, that is pretty pathetic in this day and age of CNC machining. PT&G always seems to put out good tooling, but just curious of anyone's experience with these.

    http://pacifictoolandgauge.com/ar-tools/10318-ar-15-upper-receiver-lapping-tool.html

    I wouldn't even mess with it, send your upper to Lee Wells, .. it's like $30 full turn around, I usually wait till I have a few to send and get them done all at once.

    Those hand Lapping Tools can do the job, but you have zero chance of any issues having Lee do it, and he will get the job done right.

    If your going to take those extra steps, have it done by a professional, it's to easy to mess it up with those hand Lapping Tools.
     
    Thank you Jake, I was considering Lee and you’ve convinced me to go that route instead of doing the lapping method, I think you’re right just have him true it up instead of potentially messing it up myself.
     
    Hey guys I know this is old, I been doing a ton of research about what lapping tool to get but very very conflicting information. Does anyone know if Lee Wells still does it & how I can contact him?
     
    PTG sucks balls. Assuming you ever get it, who knows it if is even machined correctly.

    Just buy the brownells tool. I touch off every upper I build with the exception of BCM (they dont need it) and certain billet brands.

    Sending it to someone is LOL. Its a cheap , easy to use tool that pays for itself quickly. $30 to touch off a face that takes 10 seconds? LOL

     
    PTG sucks balls. Assuming you ever get it, who knows it if is even machined correctly.

    Just buy the brownells tool. I touch off every upper I build with the exception of BCM (they dont need it) and certain billet brands.

    Sending it to someone is LOL. Its a cheap , easy to use tool that pays for itself quickly. $30 to touch off a face that takes 10 seconds? LOL

    I would rather have the tool, I been looking at the Brownells one too, sucks that it doesn’t come with compound & that’s another $20. Ive seen very positive reviews on the G&G lapping tool, even comes with 10ml of lapping paste, although it seems a bit rough at 120grit. But maybe the grits all brand dependant?
     
    I would rather have the tool, I been looking at the Brownells one too, sucks that it doesn’t come with compound & that’s another $20. Ive seen very positive reviews on the G&G lapping tool, even comes with 10ml of lapping paste, although it seems a bit rough at 120grit. But maybe the grits all brand dependant?
    You can use any lapping compound, there are literally hundreds on the market and can be found much cheaper.

    Its like gun lube, you can pay $10./oz for a bunch of specialty marked shit or you can pay $10 for 100/oz of Synthetic motor oil that outperforms most of them at a fraction of the cost.

    Jewelers rouge works well and is cheap for getting a mirror finish.
     
    ...have both of the PTG tools, no problems to date on multiple uppers. Couple of things to look out for: (1) lube up the tool body that inserts into the receiver, difference's in receiver dimensions varies, YMMV. (2) Lapping compound can be bought at any NAPA or other auto parts store or in this day of COVID, online. (3) Check progress frequently, patience is your friend... (4) Watch for compound leakage into the receiver bore, check and clean frequently as required. (4) After facing off, use a Birchwood Casey (or similar) touchup pen on the now exposed surface.

    ..again, YMMV
     
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    I got whatever Brownells sells. I use valve lapping compound you can get at an auto parts store. It's super simple to use, I don't put mine in a drill though I do it all by hand --I imagine a drill could cause some damage if not careful but it's hard to do damage with it by hand. It doesn't take much, you don't even want to cut the whole face, just enough so the face is even, usually indicated by removal of some of the finish but not all of it. I don't bother touching it up, nobody will ever see it and aluminum doesn't rust. Once the surface is removed you can't replace that kind of finish anyway and it's just a thin ring where it really doesn't matter.

    If it's a nice barrel, like a Krieger or whatever, I go ahead and loctite that bitch in there with the appropriate green stuff afterwards.

    As for shit getting in the receiver, if you're careful doing it that won't happen. That's the point of the thin section, to prevent the shit from touching the inside of the receiver. If you're getting it inside and have to stop to clean it, you're probably doing something wrong.
     
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    My PTG tool has worked flawlessly on a number of AR15 receivers, and I wouldn't hesitate to buy their AR10 tool if I planned on doing more big bore builds.

    I agree that there's no need to touch up the surface afterwards. We're spending time to get the tolerance just right by removing the uneven anodizing (and a small amount of aluminum), why would you put more material back on it after it's true?
     
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