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Anyone with experience using Micro Slick on a Bolt Action?

Deadshot2

Gunny Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Nov 4, 2011
1,698
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81
The Convergence Zone
Anyone used this product on a Bolt Action?

Was it applied to Bolt only or both Bolt and inside action on the bolt-way surfaces?


Interested in other's experiences before I do it to my upcoming build. Die to budget constraints I'm using the stock bolt in an SPS Action and want to smooth it up as much as possible.


All info welcome.
 
Not really needed IMO

There's not really that much surface area of moving parts in a bolt gun. I'm sure it wouldn't hurt though.
 
I had a buddy do the bolt on one of my builds. Bolt only. It has a trued R700 action and the MicroSlick made a huge different. No more gritty feel when cycling the action. Very smooth. I'm having it done on a Tac30 7mm saum build as well.
 
Not really needed IMO

There's not really that much surface area of moving parts in a bolt gun. I'm sure it wouldn't hurt though.

Ordinarily I wouldn't bother. Just change the bolt to a PTG One-Piece ground to fit the action with a touch of my "secret lube".

This build actually has a budget so it's using the stock bolt in an SPS-Tactical Action that I'm rebarreling (.223 to shoot "heavies"). Will change trigger and stock, put a good rail on it and let it "share" my NF 12-42X56 NXS with my "not so budget build" .308 :)

The bolt is a little "gritty" feeling from the Black Oxide finish Remington put on it. The bolt also has .002" of clearance and I kind of like them tighter.

I was just thinking that Micro Slick, when applied to it's max film thickness, might just tighten things up a little and make it a nice smooth bolt. At least for a factory bolt. Am considering also applying it to the bolt-ways and body where the bolt comes in contact with it.

As always, I kind of like to ask someone who's "walked through the swamp" first so I can have an idea where the deeper "sippy holes" are :)
 
on a factory action your best bet is to just bead blast both surfaces ( action and bolt) and cerakote them with the standard h series. The factory actions have enough clearance that the the little space the the CK takes up actualy helps the smoothness. And it fill the pores of the metal making it a smother surface. Plus the H series seems be be tougher IMO...

Just my .02
Greg
 
I ran it for a month on a sporterized mauser just to see if it made a difference. It didn't, it actually wore faster then regular h-series. after a month I re coated everything in armor black h-series and it held up great.
 
I've done 3 bolts and 1911 barrel in the air cure microslick. It made the two Remingtons a hell of a lot smoother feeling. I think a lot of it had to do with the cerakote on the action being smoother than Remington's finish. The Surgeon 591 feels slick as can be but I'm just getting it broke in.

While it does wear much faster than the H series, it seems to leave the surface very well polished and extra slick even after it's gone.

That being said, I've done a few load bearing parts in graphite black H series and it feels nearly as slick. The others colors I've used never seem to feel quite as slickery as the black but they still all feel smoother than the factory finished parts were.

I can't weigh in on the bead blasting method as NIC's instructions specifically say to use AO media and not beads the get the proper bond between Cerakote and metal. There's a hell of a lot I don't know and there may be something I'm missing here.