I was breaking in the barrel on my rifle. I kept have light strikes or no perceived strikes. Chambered in 6.5 CM. I have a 20 inch barrel on it.
- Thread starter WidgetyMan1987
- Start date
Is the bolt going completely into battery?
Have you blown any primers out of the case?
Have you blown any primers out of the case?
It seems to be going into battery fully. There are no gaps. No primers blown. I fired 25 rounds out of the same magazine. Probably half were light strikes. There was no pattern to the light strikes, either (fire, light strike, fire, light strike, for example). I could fire two, then light strike, fire one, then light strike.
You should at least see firing pin dents in the primer if the bolt is going fully into battery. Not that this is your sole problem, but which trigger. The trigger can cause light strikes but shouldn’t cause no strikes. Did you check headspace with a go and nogo gauge? Might be short on headspace.
I'm pretty sure it is a geisle single stage trigger. I don't recall the bcg manufacturer.
I responded to your other post about the same thing.
When I'm breaking in an ar10 I run it dripping with oil. There are a whole bunch of large bearing surfaces in there that need to be wet to run right until they break in. If they are dry, the friction will prevent it from going fully into battery. You may also need to adjust your gas block if you have an adjustable block. You may be getting just enough gas to eject but not fully chamber. Where is your brass going, using a clock hand for reference, and how far is it flying from the rifle?
When I'm breaking in an ar10 I run it dripping with oil. There are a whole bunch of large bearing surfaces in there that need to be wet to run right until they break in. If they are dry, the friction will prevent it from going fully into battery. You may also need to adjust your gas block if you have an adjustable block. You may be getting just enough gas to eject but not fully chamber. Where is your brass going, using a clock hand for reference, and how far is it flying from the rifle?
Probably 3 or 4 o'clock ejection. Enough force to hit the lane wall and bounce back. I will have to take her back to the range and record more information. I will have to check the gas block. A pain in the rear. The handguard is proprietary to the upper. Gonna be a fun time.
The bolt not going fully into battery seems like the most likely cause. I'd look very carefully at the bolt when you have it closed on an empty chamber and try to identify a feature on the bolt and notice how close it is to something on the receiver. Check those references every shot and see if you notice a small difference in how far forward the bolt travels. Just a little out of battery, like 0.030", is enough to cause the problem you describe.
Do you see normal dimples in the primers of the cartridges that do fire, or are they shallow?
Do you see normal dimples in the primers of the cartridges that do fire, or are they shallow?
Not knowing what parts that you used doesn't help. If it is a Geissele SSP trigger, here is a quote directly from them:
"Due to the lack of a mil-spec so to speak with AR's in 308, the tolerances can run much different. Even when something is advertised as being within one of the big 3 patterns there can still be significant proprietary dimensional changes.
Generally bolt carriers tend to ride higher in 308's and can lead to a poor reset by not having enough contact to seat the hammer of the SSP in the disconnector fully. The SSP is optimized for the 5.56 DI Mil Spec AR15/M4. For 308 builds we usually recommend either the SSA or SSAE if you're not looking for an adjustable trigger. Based on feedback the SSAE is a favorite for the 308's by far.
If you'd like to have that trigger inspected please send us an email to [email protected] and we'd be happy to help."
Factory S&B 140 grain boat tail
Done that twice. The bcg is the first thing I looked at after the range visit.
Ya well I didn't say bcg.take it apart
I did that. I broke it down and cleaned it thoroughly. Twice.
Trigger was installed by a gunsmith the day my upper and lower were picked up from the ffl.
post some pics of the hammer spring install. looking down into the lower receiver, cocked, and uncocked.
the gun forums are littered with posts about hammer springs, incorrectly installed, and gunsmith errors.
So far
Attachments
No wife. Burnt bronze is the color, halogen light and flash while being oiled makes it look brighter than it actually is.
Attachments
Like I already posted in your other thread.
You used a AR15 LPK.
You have a too light hammer spring, it will never work.
I've seen this problem before, and am sure I will again.
Get a AR10/AR308 LPK with the heavier spring.
Or, get a cassette style AR10/AR308 trigger assembly.
You used a AR15 LPK.
You have a too light hammer spring, it will never work.
I've seen this problem before, and am sure I will again.
Get a AR10/AR308 LPK with the heavier spring.
Or, get a cassette style AR10/AR308 trigger assembly.
hammer spring install looks good, thanks for the pics. Now,as 2aBaCa eluded to, wondering if it's not going fully into battery. what would cause that? perhaps too tight on the headspace, preventing the bolt from fully rotating to completely locked position.
action: measure headspace with GO-gauge. if it's tight, it won't close.
regarding the G triggers, compatibility with AR-10. AFAIK, all of the G AR-15 triggers also work in AR-10's. Furthermore, if there were to be a problem due to G triggers, it would usually be intermittent reset-not-happening, not light-strikes. I've got the SSAE and HSNM in my AR-308's, no problem, absolutely reliable. JMHO.
Last edited:
Similar threads
