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AR-15 barrel cut question

TXBRASS

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Jun 23, 2009
402
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Shiner, TEXAS
Took a 20" Hvy barrel A1 Bushmaster and had my smith cut the barrel down to 16". He opened up the gas port hole slightly in the barrel but still getting short stroking issues. Should I have the hole opened up more, or does it need a carbine buffer vs a rifle buffer now that it is a shorter barrel to alleviate this issue? Any advice would be appreciated.

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16" barrel with rifle-length gas systems are generally a no-no in my experience and best just not done EVER. There is just not enough dwell time and while some out there will disagree based on experiences to the contrary, for the utmost in reliability and functioning across a wide range of different ammo and shooting conditions...it is not a good combination to run at all.

You can do any number of different things to attempt to get it to run, including: a) opening up the gas port even more (not sure that is advisable depending on how large it has been made at this point and whether the block's port will take on too much more without having to be opened up as well); b) lighten your operating system (carrier, and/or buffer, and/or spring weight or move to a carbine instead of a rifle stock setup and a lighter buffer...rifle's are ~5oz and a standard CAR buffer is 3.0oz or so. If you like your current stock setup and dont' want to change it, you can either get a carbine buffer spacer, buffer and spring and run it in your existing A1 tube or you can buy a dedicated low mass buffer like those from JP which are ~3.2oz); or c) have your 16" barrel's rifle-length gas port welded up and relocated to either the intermediate (Noveske) or mid-length position. As to option "c)" I would check with the guys at ADCO on their offering of this service. It can usually be done for ~$100 if you have to have your barrel re-contoured for the journal or only $40 or less if the barrel is already the proper contour for the new journal location.
 
I replaced the rifle buffer (5 oz) with a carbine buffer (3 oz) and it runs flawless...

Is this an OK fix or will it effect something i'm not thinking about?

Or is it better to adjust the weights in the rifle buffer to keep the OAL the same for the buffer?
 
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I replaced the rifle buffer (5 oz) with a carbine buffer (3 oz) and it runs flawless...

Is this an OK fix or will it effect something i'm not thinking about?

Or is it better to adjust the weights in the rifle buffer to keep the OAL the same for the buffer?

Just responded to your PM, but will list the same here for others viewing just in case.

If you mean you just put a carbine buffer in your A1/Rifle buffer tube...BAD IDEA!! That allows WAY too much travel of the carrier when cycling (manually or live-fire) the rifle and can lead to serious damage to your lower and other components of your rifle. You CAN run a carbine buffer in a rifle tube, but as I said in my post above, ONLY with a carbine buffer spacer like those from Spike's Tactical and ONLY with a carbine buffer spring as well. Here is the spacer I'm referring to: http://www.spikestactical.com/new/z/...cer-p-709.html

If you want to keep your stock "as is" then you'll either need to get the proper buffer spacer (see above), and carbine-length buffer spring, or you'll need a lower mass rifle-length buffer to run with your existing rifle-length spring such as the JP Low Mass Buffer previously mentioned.

DO NOT RUN A CARBINE BUFFER IN A RIFLE-LENGTH RECEIVER EXTENSION/BUFFER TUBE WITHOUT A SPACER INSTALLED!! PERIOD!!

Hope that helps...Good luck!
 
Another thing to consider is that it may be running now, in these high temps, but what will it do in the winter?

These types of RLGS/16" and shorter barrel (like the Colt Model 605) get really temperamental in the winter.
 
Im guessing 20" had mid gas.. cutting the barrel that short if your not on carbin gas block system aint gonna work even changin buffer your spring still a a2 rifle still wont work install a carbin tube with carbin spring and buffer then youl be fine:)