would it be cheaper to build or buy a dpms A3 classic style ? on the website thay list for 1,095. dose not have to be all dpms stuff.
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Re: AR , cheaper to build or buy ?
Well, when I was originally weighing my options for a rifle build, an AR platform was in the running. The only thing is, that in the State of PA there is Absolutely no use for one, other than paper. So I have chosen a Bolt Action Platform.
Anyhow, curiosity killed the cat and got the better part of me. I decided to price out parts and see what it would really actually cost to build rather than purchase whole. I had a Delton 16.5" M4 Parts kit and a DPMS or Spikes Tac Lower and had it priced at around $650 - $800. No too dang bad when you look at buying a whole "M4" DPMS for $1000 from your local. You can get them cheaper if you have time and look for deals! I think searching for deals and have a skittle bowl of pieces I had one at about $550
Well, when I was originally weighing my options for a rifle build, an AR platform was in the running. The only thing is, that in the State of PA there is Absolutely no use for one, other than paper. So I have chosen a Bolt Action Platform.
Anyhow, curiosity killed the cat and got the better part of me. I decided to price out parts and see what it would really actually cost to build rather than purchase whole. I had a Delton 16.5" M4 Parts kit and a DPMS or Spikes Tac Lower and had it priced at around $650 - $800. No too dang bad when you look at buying a whole "M4" DPMS for $1000 from your local. You can get them cheaper if you have time and look for deals! I think searching for deals and have a skittle bowl of pieces I had one at about $550
Re: AR , cheaper to build or buy ?
I think if you build, you get everything you want. So buy once, cry once. As opposed to buying a complete and swapping everything out.
Good luck on getting a Mega Arms Mono - http://spikele.wordpress.com/2012/07/24/mega-arms-letter-to-customers/
I think if you build, you get everything you want. So buy once, cry once. As opposed to buying a complete and swapping everything out.
Good luck on getting a Mega Arms Mono - http://spikele.wordpress.com/2012/07/24/mega-arms-letter-to-customers/
Re: AR , cheaper to build or buy ?
I say build your own as long as you have a little bit of mechanical inclination you will get excactly what you want for a little less money and when your done you will know far more about your rifle then you would if you just bought it off the shelf.
I say build your own as long as you have a little bit of mechanical inclination you will get excactly what you want for a little less money and when your done you will know far more about your rifle then you would if you just bought it off the shelf.
Re: AR , cheaper to build or buy ?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: B3dlam</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I say build your own as long as you have a little bit of mechanical inclination you will get excactly what you want for a little less money and when your done you will know far more about your rifle then you would if you just bought it off the shelf. </div></div>
This. You will end up with a fully customized AR built exactly to your specs.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: B3dlam</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I say build your own as long as you have a little bit of mechanical inclination you will get excactly what you want for a little less money and when your done you will know far more about your rifle then you would if you just bought it off the shelf. </div></div>
This. You will end up with a fully customized AR built exactly to your specs.
Re: AR , cheaper to build or buy ?
Definately start building your own. It saves $$ and is one of those skills everyone should have anyway.
JT Distributing has a pretty good selection of parts. They will put together a kit with everything you want except the lower receiver. If they offer what you want it will save on shipping from several vendors.
Definately start building your own. It saves $$ and is one of those skills everyone should have anyway.
JT Distributing has a pretty good selection of parts. They will put together a kit with everything you want except the lower receiver. If they offer what you want it will save on shipping from several vendors.
Re: AR , cheaper to build or buy ?
Build your own. Best bang for the buck. I've only found one factory AR that was setup perfect to my liking, the Colt Competition PRO CRP18. If I wouldnt have found that I would have been building.
Build your own. Best bang for the buck. I've only found one factory AR that was setup perfect to my liking, the Colt Competition PRO CRP18. If I wouldnt have found that I would have been building.
Re: AR , cheaper to build or buy ?
It isnt rocket science...it isnt "easy button" easy either...you'll need a few specialized tools (although you can build it without)...buy the tools...you will build more...its like crack...
You'll be able to buy better components and end up with more rifle for your money AND you will understand the rifle in ways a non builder cannot...
BUILD and don't look back...
Capt Beach
It isnt rocket science...it isnt "easy button" easy either...you'll need a few specialized tools (although you can build it without)...buy the tools...you will build more...its like crack...
You'll be able to buy better components and end up with more rifle for your money AND you will understand the rifle in ways a non builder cannot...
BUILD and don't look back...
Capt Beach
Re: AR , cheaper to build or buy ?
And as far as all the TACTICOOL crap you can hang off your rifle...LESS IS MORE...
And as far as all the TACTICOOL crap you can hang off your rifle...LESS IS MORE...
Re: AR , cheaper to build or buy ?
The further you deviate from a stock configuration, the more you'll save building it yourself. You can also build it exactly the way you want it. If you're an aftermarket parts junky, that's nice.
For a basic, "classic" looking AR, it is almost always cheaper to buy one, unless you're building from used parts and you get the tools for free.
Expect to spend at least $100 in tools, possibly closer to $200. Tools required include roll pin punches, hammer, barrel nut wrench, torque wrench, castle nut wrench, moly grease, action blocks, barrel vise jaws, screwdrivers, vise, crescent wrench, and allen wrenches. A small tap is needed if you plan to retain your takedown detent with a set screw. A MOACKS tool is helpful if you need to stake your carrier key. An upper receiver lapping tool allegedly helps accuracy (you'll need a drill and lapping compound to use it). I've used pliers, vise grips, and spirit levels on my builds too. Loctite and a FAT wrench can be a plus when installing optics. Some parts/configurations may require special tools.
The more specialized tools you use, the greater your chances of not damaging your parts. For example, you can install muzzle devices without barrel vise jaws. But, you run the risk of breaking your upper receiver. Regular punches are more likely to slip off your roll pins compared to roll pin punches, which may result in damage to your receiver. Not using action blocks can result in scratched or even crushed/broken receivers.
Of course, the cost of tools can be amortized over several rifles. Having one AR is like having one screwdriver - it's not always the right tool for the job, so be sure to buy a set!
The further you deviate from a stock configuration, the more you'll save building it yourself. You can also build it exactly the way you want it. If you're an aftermarket parts junky, that's nice.
For a basic, "classic" looking AR, it is almost always cheaper to buy one, unless you're building from used parts and you get the tools for free.
Expect to spend at least $100 in tools, possibly closer to $200. Tools required include roll pin punches, hammer, barrel nut wrench, torque wrench, castle nut wrench, moly grease, action blocks, barrel vise jaws, screwdrivers, vise, crescent wrench, and allen wrenches. A small tap is needed if you plan to retain your takedown detent with a set screw. A MOACKS tool is helpful if you need to stake your carrier key. An upper receiver lapping tool allegedly helps accuracy (you'll need a drill and lapping compound to use it). I've used pliers, vise grips, and spirit levels on my builds too. Loctite and a FAT wrench can be a plus when installing optics. Some parts/configurations may require special tools.
The more specialized tools you use, the greater your chances of not damaging your parts. For example, you can install muzzle devices without barrel vise jaws. But, you run the risk of breaking your upper receiver. Regular punches are more likely to slip off your roll pins compared to roll pin punches, which may result in damage to your receiver. Not using action blocks can result in scratched or even crushed/broken receivers.
Of course, the cost of tools can be amortized over several rifles. Having one AR is like having one screwdriver - it's not always the right tool for the job, so be sure to buy a set!
Re: AR , cheaper to build or buy ?
If you don't want something very plain, build it. Even for a plain rifle, you may be better off building it if you have preferences for a specific barrel, muzzle device, etc. They're simple to work on with a few tools and you'll learn a lot in the process. If you don't want to install the lower parts kit or barrel the upper receiver, which are the two things that require some knowledge and tools other than a screw driver or adjustable wrench, you can easily work around it.
If you don't want something very plain, build it. Even for a plain rifle, you may be better off building it if you have preferences for a specific barrel, muzzle device, etc. They're simple to work on with a few tools and you'll learn a lot in the process. If you don't want to install the lower parts kit or barrel the upper receiver, which are the two things that require some knowledge and tools other than a screw driver or adjustable wrench, you can easily work around it.
Re: AR , cheaper to build or buy ?
now this may be a dumb ass question but i an not an AR expert, if i use a flat top upper that has a front sight can i use low rings and , lets say a 3x9x40 without having to take the front sight off ?
now this may be a dumb ass question but i an not an AR expert, if i use a flat top upper that has a front sight can i use low rings and , lets say a 3x9x40 without having to take the front sight off ?
Re: AR , cheaper to build or buy ?
I'm sure you can build what you want cheaper regardless. When I built my last one I vowed not to get in a hurry. I figured out what parts I wanted and patiently waited for those items to go on sale. It took me about 8mths but I was able to get exactly what I wanted for much less than buying something close and then swapping parts out. I made sure to buy some of the things I wanted from the local gun shop. This has paid dividends when I had/have weapon questions or issues. You will spend some money on tools, but what I paid in tools was worth the price of knowledge and experience.
I'm sure you can build what you want cheaper regardless. When I built my last one I vowed not to get in a hurry. I figured out what parts I wanted and patiently waited for those items to go on sale. It took me about 8mths but I was able to get exactly what I wanted for much less than buying something close and then swapping parts out. I made sure to buy some of the things I wanted from the local gun shop. This has paid dividends when I had/have weapon questions or issues. You will spend some money on tools, but what I paid in tools was worth the price of knowledge and experience.
Re: AR , cheaper to build or buy ?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: savagehunter44</div><div class="ubbcode-body">now this may be a dumb ass question but i an not an AR expert, if i use a flat top upper that has a front sight can i use low rings and , lets say a 3x9x40 without having to take the front sight off ? </div></div>
you would think that front sight would obscure the target but it really does not, I have noticed darkness/shadow in the area of the front sight
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: savagehunter44</div><div class="ubbcode-body">now this may be a dumb ass question but i an not an AR expert, if i use a flat top upper that has a front sight can i use low rings and , lets say a 3x9x40 without having to take the front sight off ? </div></div>
you would think that front sight would obscure the target but it really does not, I have noticed darkness/shadow in the area of the front sight
Re: AR , cheaper to build or buy ?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Bunnypunter</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Build your own. Best bang for the buck. I've only found one factory AR that was setup perfect to my liking, the Colt Competition PRO CRP18. If I wouldnt have found that I would have been building. </div></div>
My favorite factory AR as well, even though they get some gunsmith in PA to build it so it's not really built in the Colt factory.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Bunnypunter</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Build your own. Best bang for the buck. I've only found one factory AR that was setup perfect to my liking, the Colt Competition PRO CRP18. If I wouldnt have found that I would have been building. </div></div>
My favorite factory AR as well, even though they get some gunsmith in PA to build it so it's not really built in the Colt factory.
Re: AR , cheaper to build or buy ?
I ended up building my own and will never look back again. A few friends, a good book and some tools made it go well.
I have 2 more guns and 2 uppers in build now. Just do your research, and get quality parts.
I ended up building my own and will never look back again. A few friends, a good book and some tools made it go well.
I have 2 more guns and 2 uppers in build now. Just do your research, and get quality parts.
Re: AR , cheaper to build or buy ?
Build. You will be able to build something better for way cheaper. (If you pick your components right.) Personally I like to buy my stuffs from Adco, Bravo Co, Rainier Arms and G&R tactical.
I really like Bravo Co's BCG and the Gunfighter charging handle.
Ask your shooting buddies if any of them have the tools to assemble ARs.
Build. You will be able to build something better for way cheaper. (If you pick your components right.) Personally I like to buy my stuffs from Adco, Bravo Co, Rainier Arms and G&R tactical.
I really like Bravo Co's BCG and the Gunfighter charging handle.
Ask your shooting buddies if any of them have the tools to assemble ARs.
Re: AR , cheaper to build or buy ?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: savagehunter44</div><div class="ubbcode-body">now this may be a dumb ass question but i an not an AR expert, if i use a flat top upper that has a front sight can i use low rings and , lets say a 3x9x40 without having to take the front sight off ?</div></div>
Low rings may not give you a good cheek weld. My Aimpoint sits in a Burris XTR High ring and it's comfortable.
Also, traditional rings may cause problems with eye relief depending on the scope you choose. That's why mounts from LaRue, Bobro, etc., for ARs are typically cantilever mounts. As mentioned, this depends on the scope, as well as stock length (i.e., how close your nose is to the charging handle).
Magnified optics generally work fine with front site bases in the way. In many instances, all you might notice is a slight shadow, but it depends on scope height and magnification.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: savagehunter44</div><div class="ubbcode-body">now this may be a dumb ass question but i an not an AR expert, if i use a flat top upper that has a front sight can i use low rings and , lets say a 3x9x40 without having to take the front sight off ?</div></div>
Low rings may not give you a good cheek weld. My Aimpoint sits in a Burris XTR High ring and it's comfortable.
Also, traditional rings may cause problems with eye relief depending on the scope you choose. That's why mounts from LaRue, Bobro, etc., for ARs are typically cantilever mounts. As mentioned, this depends on the scope, as well as stock length (i.e., how close your nose is to the charging handle).
Magnified optics generally work fine with front site bases in the way. In many instances, all you might notice is a slight shadow, but it depends on scope height and magnification.
Re: AR , cheaper to build or buy ?
Oh yes indeed build it, the knowledge you will gain will last you a lifetime and it is fun and rewarding as well but be warned it is an addiction, every extra part turms into a build.
Good Luck!
Oh yes indeed build it, the knowledge you will gain will last you a lifetime and it is fun and rewarding as well but be warned it is an addiction, every extra part turms into a build.
Good Luck!
Re: AR , cheaper to build or buy ?
build. cheaper, you get to buld it exactly how you want it and you know how to fix it and to change it if you want to later
build. cheaper, you get to buld it exactly how you want it and you know how to fix it and to change it if you want to later
Re: AR , cheaper to build or buy ?
I would only build if you are very experienced with ARs and AR options. Not because of the difficulty, but just so you have a solid handle on what you want on the AR. If you know EXACTLY what you want, build it. Otherwise buy one, or save a little money and buy a lower and Milspec BCG, then piece out the upper.
I would only build if you are very experienced with ARs and AR options. Not because of the difficulty, but just so you have a solid handle on what you want on the AR. If you know EXACTLY what you want, build it. Otherwise buy one, or save a little money and buy a lower and Milspec BCG, then piece out the upper.
Build it. By building it you have everything you want in the end and don't have to spend time replacing parts to get what you want. As far as cost goes you will probably end up spending more. I have built several and start with a budget but have been unable to keep it yet. The other benefit is you will become familiar with the inner working of the AR platform. Good luck and happy building.
If you buy right yea its usually always cheaper. But know this especially in the upper. More speaking of the feed ramps. Quality AR's are machined and timed properly on upper parts. My LR308 build receiver and barrel ramps are gawd awful. My BCM AR15 complete up is matched and timed perfectly.
So unless you want to use a smith and match things up perfectly it might kill your budget.
So unless you want to use a smith and match things up perfectly it might kill your budget.
Doesn't take luck, just a little time to figure out how to work around a patent or maybe work out a royalty price with the patent holder, either way it is coming back.
MegaArms NEW Megalithic Upper Receiver AR-15 and .308 - SHOT Show 2014 - YouTube
I ordered a lower, and everything else you would need to complete it. A stock, Lower parts kit, ALG QMS trigger, trigger guard, etc. I have a friend who has the tools and know how to complete the lower. This was my first build, I will admit he did most of the work but I watched closely and dont think I would have a problem at all doing this with the proper tools. I am not set up with tools nor is my friend to do the complete upper, YET!!!!!! So I ordered a complete upper from a very good builder who is well known, especially in the 6.8 SPC 2 world. This rifle is a 5.56, he puts both 6.8 and 5.56 together. The upper is an aero precision flat top. Has an ARP 16 inch 223 wyde barrel that has the melonite treatment, supposed to last way longer than stainless or chrome lined. Ordered with a BCM gunfighter charging handle, Young manufacturing chrome bolt and carrier, midwest industries 12 inch Gen 2 ss free float rail with a standard A2 flash suppressor, mid length gas. This builder's stuff is right when he ships. There are many things that has to be right when dealing with gas/timing/gas blocks etc. and he ensures all is right. I think I want to build an upper but really not sure, by the time I buy all the tools and pay the shipping on all the different parts, might not be much more to purchase a complete upper. I have a total of around $1100.00 in everything. Very happy with the rifle and glad I went the route I did. I own other Ar's that are good ones from very good companies, they cost way more than this one did and I changed a few things on each one of them, by going the route I did on this ar, it saved me some dough and will probably go this route again on my next ar. Good luck.
There are many aspects to a well-built AR15 that slip by most hobbyists or home project builders, which I openly admit to being. I haven't purchased an off-the-shelf AR15 since 1997, but I have learned an immense amount of information about them since then that I was totally clueless about, and I continue to learn more every opportunity I get.
My approach to parts sourcing is an ongoing QC process. Receivers, barrels, extensions, uppers, bolts, bolt carriers, carrier keys, lower parts, extension tubes, recoil springs, ejector springs, gas rings, gas blocks, extractor springs, extractors, charge handles.... None of these parts are standard in the industry in the way many think they are. Sure, you can smash them all together and end up with a firearm that looks like an AR15, but materials quality, dimensional uniformity, coatings, treatments, and assembly methods are not all the same.
As I have learned more about these aspects of the AR15, I have evolved in how I choose and assemble parts for my blasters. At the moment, there are very few companies I can trust to kick out a well-built, standardized, quality product, but if I was only equipped with the level of information I had after studying and using the AR15 on a daily basis for just 9 years, I would end up repeating the same mistakes that I see almost every AR15 "manufacturer" making.
I didn't know about steel grades back then, but had read a little bit about it and assumed everyone used the same 4150CMV steel with chrome lining for a claimed "Mil-spec" gun. I didn't know anyone was making receivers out of aluminum in 6000-series, without a Type III hard coat anodizing, that penetrates deeply into the surface for a harder, stronger receiver. I didn't know about dry film lube inside the upper.
I didn't know that practically every AR15 copy had crappy trigger and lower receiver components, with corners cut on every piece, down to the zinc-plated detents, which are supposed to be cadmium-plated.
I didn't know the carrier key was supposed to be a softer steel, with hard chroming inside the key. I didn't know the AR15 bolt was never meant for 5.56 NATO, and was engineered around a much weaker cartridge, the .222 Remington. I didn't know they had realized that 8620 steel doesn't really cut it with 5.56 pressures, so Carpenter 158 was adopted, with a strict QC process for the metallurgy in order to deal with 5.56 pressures.
I didn't know that my military guns had MPI'd lower parts, with inspection and proof markings on them after passing these processes. I didn't know the pistol grip was different on my work gun, vs. my Bushmasters at home. I didn't know that specific steel grades were used for the wire in all the springs on a true Mil-spec gun, while after-market guns used whatever they could get for the cheapest.
Name a part, and I could go on about it and how different it is from what I look for when I source parts for my projects.
My approach to parts sourcing is an ongoing QC process. Receivers, barrels, extensions, uppers, bolts, bolt carriers, carrier keys, lower parts, extension tubes, recoil springs, ejector springs, gas rings, gas blocks, extractor springs, extractors, charge handles.... None of these parts are standard in the industry in the way many think they are. Sure, you can smash them all together and end up with a firearm that looks like an AR15, but materials quality, dimensional uniformity, coatings, treatments, and assembly methods are not all the same.
As I have learned more about these aspects of the AR15, I have evolved in how I choose and assemble parts for my blasters. At the moment, there are very few companies I can trust to kick out a well-built, standardized, quality product, but if I was only equipped with the level of information I had after studying and using the AR15 on a daily basis for just 9 years, I would end up repeating the same mistakes that I see almost every AR15 "manufacturer" making.
I didn't know about steel grades back then, but had read a little bit about it and assumed everyone used the same 4150CMV steel with chrome lining for a claimed "Mil-spec" gun. I didn't know anyone was making receivers out of aluminum in 6000-series, without a Type III hard coat anodizing, that penetrates deeply into the surface for a harder, stronger receiver. I didn't know about dry film lube inside the upper.
I didn't know that practically every AR15 copy had crappy trigger and lower receiver components, with corners cut on every piece, down to the zinc-plated detents, which are supposed to be cadmium-plated.
I didn't know the carrier key was supposed to be a softer steel, with hard chroming inside the key. I didn't know the AR15 bolt was never meant for 5.56 NATO, and was engineered around a much weaker cartridge, the .222 Remington. I didn't know they had realized that 8620 steel doesn't really cut it with 5.56 pressures, so Carpenter 158 was adopted, with a strict QC process for the metallurgy in order to deal with 5.56 pressures.
I didn't know that my military guns had MPI'd lower parts, with inspection and proof markings on them after passing these processes. I didn't know the pistol grip was different on my work gun, vs. my Bushmasters at home. I didn't know that specific steel grades were used for the wire in all the springs on a true Mil-spec gun, while after-market guns used whatever they could get for the cheapest.
Name a part, and I could go on about it and how different it is from what I look for when I source parts for my projects.
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SOME TIMES YOU CAN ,some times you can't . With a deal like this ( if you want a middy ) Spikes middy at AIM for $799.99 . Other then being very slightly over gassed ( I think they did this to insure 100% function with any ammo ) ,it is a great option.
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