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Re: AR lube
I have been using frog lube and it has been the best I have found. No problems at all
I have been using frog lube and it has been the best I have found. No problems at all
Re: AR lube
I have been using LSA for years but also use Break Free CLP. Yes they like to be run wet.
I have been using LSA for years but also use Break Free CLP. Yes they like to be run wet.
Re: AR lube
I too use frog lube. Works great and doesnt make a mess.
I too use frog lube. Works great and doesnt make a mess.
Re: AR lube
Another vote for Mobil 1 ... beats everything else and a quart will last a long time for $7.00.
Another vote for Mobil 1 ... beats everything else and a quart will last a long time for $7.00.
Re: AR lube
Synthetic ATF. Run as little lube as you can, only on the wear points. The carrier should be DRY other then the wear points on the outside near the front - 4 total. The cam pin is lubed, the lugs lubed, the band on the bolt where it rides in the carrier.
CLP SUCKS as does tri-flow. They get gummy w carbon and are too thin.
Synthetic ATF. Run as little lube as you can, only on the wear points. The carrier should be DRY other then the wear points on the outside near the front - 4 total. The cam pin is lubed, the lugs lubed, the band on the bolt where it rides in the carrier.
CLP SUCKS as does tri-flow. They get gummy w carbon and are too thin.
Re: AR lube
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: _9H_Cracka</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Synthetic ATF. Run as little lube as you can, only on the wear points. The carrier should be DRY other then the wear points on the outside near the front - 4 total. The cam pin is lubed, the lugs lubed, the band on the bolt where it rides in the carrier.
CLP SUCKS as does tri-flow. They get gummy w carbon and are too thin. </div></div>
yea no...lube the whole BCG. its easier to clean, keeps lube where it is supposed to be and wont hurt anything.
the AR is a WET system.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: _9H_Cracka</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Synthetic ATF. Run as little lube as you can, only on the wear points. The carrier should be DRY other then the wear points on the outside near the front - 4 total. The cam pin is lubed, the lugs lubed, the band on the bolt where it rides in the carrier.
CLP SUCKS as does tri-flow. They get gummy w carbon and are too thin. </div></div>
yea no...lube the whole BCG. its easier to clean, keeps lube where it is supposed to be and wont hurt anything.
the AR is a WET system.
Re: AR lube
I put Mobil 1 in a little squeeze bottle. It works great and It's free since that's what I use in my cars and I change the oil myself.
I put Mobil 1 in a little squeeze bottle. It works great and It's free since that's what I use in my cars and I change the oil myself.
Re: AR lube
Used to use Slip 2000EWL, then switched to Weaponshield because it was cheaper. Both do a good job. After this bottle of WS is gone, I'm switching to Mobil-1 Synthetic. I use Royal Purple Synthetic grease for the trigger group, takedown pins, and safety lever. Smoother than any gun grease I've tried and about 20 times cheaper.
Used to use Slip 2000EWL, then switched to Weaponshield because it was cheaper. Both do a good job. After this bottle of WS is gone, I'm switching to Mobil-1 Synthetic. I use Royal Purple Synthetic grease for the trigger group, takedown pins, and safety lever. Smoother than any gun grease I've tried and about 20 times cheaper.
Re: AR lube
Most ar's run wet. " if you don't get a spray of lube in your face after every shot you don't have enough lube "
When I was in Africa my m16 a-2 service rifle rusted shut on me. We ran out of CLP after a month or so. No PX for 3 thousand miles to go buy some. We received sniper fire , went to chamber a round and , nothing. Blot was frozen shut. Same thing happened to the 50. Went to charge the weapon and it would not budge, had to field strip it. Bottom line, the only thing that ever stopped my weapon from firing was lack of lube. Even Ma Duce won't run without lube.
Most ar's run wet. " if you don't get a spray of lube in your face after every shot you don't have enough lube "
When I was in Africa my m16 a-2 service rifle rusted shut on me. We ran out of CLP after a month or so. No PX for 3 thousand miles to go buy some. We received sniper fire , went to chamber a round and , nothing. Blot was frozen shut. Same thing happened to the 50. Went to charge the weapon and it would not budge, had to field strip it. Bottom line, the only thing that ever stopped my weapon from firing was lack of lube. Even Ma Duce won't run without lube.
Re: AR lube
There is a newish lube out there that I have found OUTSTANDING. It's called fireclean, it's awesome. Really helps with cleanup too, carbon doesn't even stick to the parts if it's applied how it instructs. I don't see myself ever switching. And it's a little thicker than normal so it really stays where you put is.
There is a newish lube out there that I have found OUTSTANDING. It's called fireclean, it's awesome. Really helps with cleanup too, carbon doesn't even stick to the parts if it's applied how it instructs. I don't see myself ever switching. And it's a little thicker than normal so it really stays where you put is.
Re: AR lube
Synthetic motor oil. I use 5w20. And lots of it. I get done with a few hundred rounds and just wipe off the cruddy oil and relube.
Synthetic motor oil. I use 5w20. And lots of it. I get done with a few hundred rounds and just wipe off the cruddy oil and relube.
Re: AR lube
I've become partial to lithium grease. 3 bucks for a spray can at the auto store, been using it for 2 years now on everything. Can be messy spraying it on if you're not careful, but it stays where you put it. Works wonders on 22's as well.
I've become partial to lithium grease. 3 bucks for a spray can at the auto store, been using it for 2 years now on everything. Can be messy spraying it on if you're not careful, but it stays where you put it. Works wonders on 22's as well.
Re: AR lube
+1 on the Slip EWL. It runs very well and cleanup is easy. How I do it is oil the bolt carrier and the bolt head heavily then coat the receiver in oil. Then finally I use their grease and rub that on the contact surfaces in the receiver and it makes for a smooth feeling action
I use the EWL on my bolt gun race ways as well and makes for a very smooth action
+1 on the Slip EWL. It runs very well and cleanup is easy. How I do it is oil the bolt carrier and the bolt head heavily then coat the receiver in oil. Then finally I use their grease and rub that on the contact surfaces in the receiver and it makes for a smooth feeling action
I use the EWL on my bolt gun race ways as well and makes for a very smooth action
Re: AR lube
Moble 1...! But i have heard of fireclean, its supose to be the shit!
Moble 1...! But i have heard of fireclean, its supose to be the shit!
Re: AR lube
frog lube and only frog lube... trust me
frog lube and only frog lube... trust me
Re: AR lube
My buddy swears by Froglube....so i bought some to try out. Probably going to use it on my REPR in a few days. Not cheap though!!!
My buddy swears by Froglube....so i bought some to try out. Probably going to use it on my REPR in a few days. Not cheap though!!!
Re: AR lube
Mobil 1, Turbo Diesel Truck 5w-40
Mobil 1, Turbo Diesel Truck 5w-40
Re: AR lube
I like TW25B and EWL. They seem to work OK. But most anything does.
Good story:
http://www.slip2000.com/blog/s-w-a-t-magazine-filthy-14/
I like TW25B and EWL. They seem to work OK. But most anything does.
Good story:
http://www.slip2000.com/blog/s-w-a-t-magazine-filthy-14/
Re: AR lube
I use CLP/Break Free or Miltech in minimal spots. I oil the buffer and bolt and a small spot on the hammer. Other than that the gun is literally dry and has run perfect on numerous weapons over the years. You don't want much oil on it depending on the environment as you'll attract a lot dust/dirt.
I use CLP/Break Free or Miltech in minimal spots. I oil the buffer and bolt and a small spot on the hammer. Other than that the gun is literally dry and has run perfect on numerous weapons over the years. You don't want much oil on it depending on the environment as you'll attract a lot dust/dirt.
Re: AR lube
Currently using Slip 2000 EWL. I love it so far.
However, have also heard great things about the Froglube, as well as good ol' motor oil, and I wouldn't have any qualms about using either.
Currently using Slip 2000 EWL. I love it so far.
However, have also heard great things about the Froglube, as well as good ol' motor oil, and I wouldn't have any qualms about using either.
Re: AR lube
I like TW25B, or Militech. You could also get it in grease in a syringe like the Militech, but not an oil, just a heavy white grease. This is what many manufacturers told me that they use in their builds instead of the white lithium grease that the old military manuals call for. It also works great on trigger groups that won't be getting too gritty.
This stuff works great on pistols too!
I agree, you don't put too much oil in the AR. There are certain lube points, I think you'll find those in the manual, but heavily lubing the carrier isn't recommended. There are few parts that get lots of lube in the AR, more that get light lube.
Then I like to use CLP, it IS cheap after all, mainly to just coat and protect the metal, such as barrels, etc.
Any of the finer oils, CLP included, will soak into the pores of the metal over time and increase their resistance against rust. So even though you don't want to coat the carrier in oil, you do want a fine, very thin coat that you build up over time, and this will help slick it up some and protect it from the elements.
Machineguns were a different story. Anything beltfed basically came with a water spray bottle filled with CLP and that was just sprayed all over the tray and feed mechanism. When dirty, they wouldn't work any other way. But the AR is more delicate and if you overdo it, you can significantly reduce the reliability of the system.
This is all from my experience. I've been building 'em and shooting 'em before and since the army and their advanced infantry/SDM program. Also, if on a budget, the CLP isn't a bad choice. That TW25B can get costly.
I like TW25B, or Militech. You could also get it in grease in a syringe like the Militech, but not an oil, just a heavy white grease. This is what many manufacturers told me that they use in their builds instead of the white lithium grease that the old military manuals call for. It also works great on trigger groups that won't be getting too gritty.
This stuff works great on pistols too!
I agree, you don't put too much oil in the AR. There are certain lube points, I think you'll find those in the manual, but heavily lubing the carrier isn't recommended. There are few parts that get lots of lube in the AR, more that get light lube.
Then I like to use CLP, it IS cheap after all, mainly to just coat and protect the metal, such as barrels, etc.
Any of the finer oils, CLP included, will soak into the pores of the metal over time and increase their resistance against rust. So even though you don't want to coat the carrier in oil, you do want a fine, very thin coat that you build up over time, and this will help slick it up some and protect it from the elements.
Machineguns were a different story. Anything beltfed basically came with a water spray bottle filled with CLP and that was just sprayed all over the tray and feed mechanism. When dirty, they wouldn't work any other way. But the AR is more delicate and if you overdo it, you can significantly reduce the reliability of the system.
This is all from my experience. I've been building 'em and shooting 'em before and since the army and their advanced infantry/SDM program. Also, if on a budget, the CLP isn't a bad choice. That TW25B can get costly.
Re: AR lube
+1 on EWL
+1 on EWL
Re: AR lube
Any lube is better than no lube. Each has its +/-'s for price, migration, anti-corrosion, smell, etc. However, I think the point is that any weapon runs better with lube rather than without it.
My company has switched over to Slip2000 products this past year and have been pleased with the performance. We use the cleaner, carbon cutter, EWL, and EWL grease. For AR-type weapons we use the grease on the four wear points on the BCG, each side of the charging handle, and on certain trigger parts. For all the other regular places, the EWL keeps things well lubed. The places Giessele recommends grease on their triggers, we use the EWL grease.
We lube our weapons more than clean them and they seem to clean up quicker with less scrubbing using the Slip2000 products. Our technique is to run two wet patches through the bore after shooting and one dry patch prior to shooting. More than any other product we've used, you can actually feel the smoothness of the bore increase after pulling a few patches through.
Disclaimer: We receive no compensation from the Slip2000 folks for this endorsement.
Any lube is better than no lube. Each has its +/-'s for price, migration, anti-corrosion, smell, etc. However, I think the point is that any weapon runs better with lube rather than without it.
My company has switched over to Slip2000 products this past year and have been pleased with the performance. We use the cleaner, carbon cutter, EWL, and EWL grease. For AR-type weapons we use the grease on the four wear points on the BCG, each side of the charging handle, and on certain trigger parts. For all the other regular places, the EWL keeps things well lubed. The places Giessele recommends grease on their triggers, we use the EWL grease.
We lube our weapons more than clean them and they seem to clean up quicker with less scrubbing using the Slip2000 products. Our technique is to run two wet patches through the bore after shooting and one dry patch prior to shooting. More than any other product we've used, you can actually feel the smoothness of the bore increase after pulling a few patches through.
Disclaimer: We receive no compensation from the Slip2000 folks for this endorsement.
Re: AR lube
Consider what environmental conditions you operate in. Even in the most crude of military manuals they address adjusting weapons maintenance for the conditions.
In my arid high desert and alpine environment I run with minimal lube. I have a huge swing in temps from up to the 90’s to below zero. I lube the carrier contact points and bolt lugs with a light oil (pick your poison). The bolt-to-bolt carrier and cam pin get a light lithium grease. That’s all I do, with approaching 15k in three guns over 11 years.
I run as dry as possible to keep dust collecting at a minimum. I have seen guys dunk a bolt carrier in break free and throw it in a gun. It worked at the range, but I would not want to be working in the field and collect all the dust and debris.
In an AR/M-16 platform I truly believe the secret to keeping them malfunction free is the frequency of cleanings not necessarily the type of lube or how much, with the latter part being debatable.
Consider what environmental conditions you operate in. Even in the most crude of military manuals they address adjusting weapons maintenance for the conditions.
In my arid high desert and alpine environment I run with minimal lube. I have a huge swing in temps from up to the 90’s to below zero. I lube the carrier contact points and bolt lugs with a light oil (pick your poison). The bolt-to-bolt carrier and cam pin get a light lithium grease. That’s all I do, with approaching 15k in three guns over 11 years.
I run as dry as possible to keep dust collecting at a minimum. I have seen guys dunk a bolt carrier in break free and throw it in a gun. It worked at the range, but I would not want to be working in the field and collect all the dust and debris.
In an AR/M-16 platform I truly believe the secret to keeping them malfunction free is the frequency of cleanings not necessarily the type of lube or how much, with the latter part being debatable.
Re: AR lube
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Rprecision</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
In an AR/M-16 platform I truly believe the secret to keeping them malfunction free is the frequency of cleanings not necessarily the type of lube or how much, with the latter part being debatable.
</div></div>
Filthy 14 disagrees with you. Keeping it clean helps, but lube is king for AR's (in my opinion and experience).
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Rprecision</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
In an AR/M-16 platform I truly believe the secret to keeping them malfunction free is the frequency of cleanings not necessarily the type of lube or how much, with the latter part being debatable.
</div></div>
Filthy 14 disagrees with you. Keeping it clean helps, but lube is king for AR's (in my opinion and experience).
Re: AR lube
Mobil 1 or another good synthetic motor oil.
Mobil 1 or another good synthetic motor oil.
Re: AR lube
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Hoser</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Synthetic motor oil. I use 5w20. And lots of it. I get done with a few hundred rounds and just wipe off the cruddy oil and relube.</div></div>
bingo!!
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Hoser</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Synthetic motor oil. I use 5w20. And lots of it. I get done with a few hundred rounds and just wipe off the cruddy oil and relube.</div></div>
bingo!!
Re: AR lube
Last year, I ran Super Tech (Wal-Mart) Lithium Spray Lube inside the receiver, no issues. It trapped loose carbon nicely, and wiped away easily on paper toweling.
This coming year, I'm trying Super Tech Extreme Pressure Multi Duty Complex (a translucent red tub grease), will report. Also using it for SKS.
Both are cheap and easily obtained.
My Dodge dealer/service manager reinforced my faith in to Wal-Mart lubricants. The dealer uses Quaker State lubricants and rates them as number one, but rates Wal-Mart lubes as the very next best products. While my Dodge is on warrantee, the Dealer will be doing all my maintenance. After that, I plan on using Super-Tech High Mileage 20W-50 and filters. I used to use Castrol High Mileage 20W-50 exclusively, but changed over to Super-Tech in 2004.
The service manager's opinion is that Wal-Mart does not want to have any liability issues with their lubricants, and maintains especially high standards with their suppliers. My opinion is that he runs an extremely professional operation, and his viewpoints are valuable. I recently gifted my 1995 Honda Accord Wagon to my Daughter. It has been running Super-Tech High Mileage 20W-50 oil and filters for the past 8 years, and just passed 275,000 miles. I am inclined to agree with him.
Greg
Last year, I ran Super Tech (Wal-Mart) Lithium Spray Lube inside the receiver, no issues. It trapped loose carbon nicely, and wiped away easily on paper toweling.
This coming year, I'm trying Super Tech Extreme Pressure Multi Duty Complex (a translucent red tub grease), will report. Also using it for SKS.
Both are cheap and easily obtained.
My Dodge dealer/service manager reinforced my faith in to Wal-Mart lubricants. The dealer uses Quaker State lubricants and rates them as number one, but rates Wal-Mart lubes as the very next best products. While my Dodge is on warrantee, the Dealer will be doing all my maintenance. After that, I plan on using Super-Tech High Mileage 20W-50 and filters. I used to use Castrol High Mileage 20W-50 exclusively, but changed over to Super-Tech in 2004.
The service manager's opinion is that Wal-Mart does not want to have any liability issues with their lubricants, and maintains especially high standards with their suppliers. My opinion is that he runs an extremely professional operation, and his viewpoints are valuable. I recently gifted my 1995 Honda Accord Wagon to my Daughter. It has been running Super-Tech High Mileage 20W-50 oil and filters for the past 8 years, and just passed 275,000 miles. I am inclined to agree with him.
Greg
Re: AR lube
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Santo</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have been using LSA for years but also use Break Free CLP. Yes they like to be run wet. </div></div>
+1 CLP; have tried others but keep coming back to this stuff the 'Corps introduced me to many years ago............
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Santo</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have been using LSA for years but also use Break Free CLP. Yes they like to be run wet. </div></div>
+1 CLP; have tried others but keep coming back to this stuff the 'Corps introduced me to many years ago............
Re: AR lube
Miltec1
Miltec1
Re: AR lube
Fireclean is what I'm using and it's simply amazing stuff. I was using frog lube before and it blows froglube away. It non toxic,non flammable, biodegradable and best of all you only need a few drops so no more drowning you gun. It's a cleaner and lubricator and all I hear when I cycle the bolt on my AR is the buffer spring compressing, it's smoother than than I thought possible. Great stuff, check it out.
Fireclean is what I'm using and it's simply amazing stuff. I was using frog lube before and it blows froglube away. It non toxic,non flammable, biodegradable and best of all you only need a few drops so no more drowning you gun. It's a cleaner and lubricator and all I hear when I cycle the bolt on my AR is the buffer spring compressing, it's smoother than than I thought possible. Great stuff, check it out.
Re: AR lube
. What you are about to see in the video is a M249 SAW. This was after 400 rounds in 15 minutes. The manufacturer from FN and the Marines that were shooting seemed very impressed.
- light coat of Fire Clean was applied to the piston before firing
- no Fire Clean was applied during or after firing, or to the paper towel used in the video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-y1dBjEucwE&sns=em
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. What you are about to see in the video is a M249 SAW. This was after 400 rounds in 15 minutes. The manufacturer from FN and the Marines that were shooting seemed very impressed.
- light coat of Fire Clean was applied to the piston before firing
- no Fire Clean was applied during or after firing, or to the paper towel used in the video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-y1dBjEucwE&sns=em
<object width="425" height="350"> <param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/-y1dBjEucwE&sns=em"></param> <param name="wmode" value="transparent"></param> <embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/-y1dBjEucwE&sns=em" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="350"> </embed></object>
I was using Slip EWL and and Miltec grease, Fireclean is hands down better in my AR bolt carrier. A little goes a long way as well.
Trust me on this ONE ( FROG LUBE ) is without a doubt the best LUBE I have ever used. But the best part is that it smells great, it has a MINTY smell. My wife used to bitch all the time about Ballistol and other Lubes that I used in the past but not any more. Again buy FROG LUBE and never look back.
TW25b....havent found anything better yet..... Makes things really easy to clean too.... I'll admit I haven't used frog lube but I've read many articles where TW25B out performed other lubes.... If you put stock in those articles.... Plus I've never heard anyone say anything but positive things about it.
I have switched all AR's and pistols to frog lube. Nothing but good things to say, especially when you use the paste for the first application.
+1 and some useless text to up word count
I like the adverts saying combat proven, I used diesel and mogas to clean everything, bought my own bushes for the squad because all the remfs would snatch and hoard without ever using them. I spend over $500 sending my son cleaning supplies for his two tours in Iraq (grut, 82nd). I will try the Mobil 1, never thought of using that, been using breakfree forever.
Put down the clp a while ago and became primarily a grease man (wheel bearing). But I have been planning on trying out the Syn. Motor oil. I refuse to pay for all these fancy lubes that cost $5 ounce when a quart of motor oil or my tub-o-grease will last me forever. But YMMV...
I converted over to Mobil 1 Synthetic grease on the M1 and the bolt section of my armory, huge difference, used in the past as stop gap on my issue 16 but not good in desert environment on dust collection. Rethinking that now though, maybe just hit the BCG friction parts and do internal friction parts with mobil 1 10 wt motor oil.
Mobil one here. it,s always damp or wet along the coast. if i was operating in a dry dusty region, i would try a lighter oil of maybe a dry lube of some sort. i know i,m running "wet enough" when my wife ask if i,ve been kissing the tractor again.
another vote for running them wet. Lotsa oil. Just about any quality works. Gun oil is an expensive, competitive product. I buy whatever is on sale, as long as it is a quality oil. Do not use WD40.
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