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AR Scope mounts.

Scotts556

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Oct 23, 2009
570
113
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Texas
I've been told to check out the Warne Ramp Mount for non QD mounts. Also, the stalwarts (badger, night force, etc)
 
I have used the DNZ mount you have listed. I chose it because of all the one piece mounts on the market, it has the most forward offset. It also had the lowest centerline when I decided to buy it (besides the nightforce 1.1 unimount).

It's a great mount. It held zero just fine, returned to zero just fine. Never had any issues with rigidity. Never left so much as a hint of a ring mark on either of the scopes I had mounted in it. It is *one of* the most versatile one piece mounts as far as eye relief and LOP is concerned.

The front cross bolt did come loose after it was torqued to spec but a drop of blue lok-tite cured it.

I sold it because the centerline was 0.125" too high. Maybe I'm picky, or maybe my scope just has an infinitesimal eye box. Either way it was a great mount and I'm disappointed it didn't work out. In fact I'm surprised it doesn't get more attention. It probably has something to do with the gimicky name. But alas, a rose by any other name...

*edit
 
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If I was set on a mount like the ones listed I'd go with an AADmount. I've got one of their 35mm AR mounts. Great stuff.
 
Badger makes the best 1 piece mount. Simple, light, and its badger.......so its very high quality. Its also pretty cheap around $170 if you shop.
 
The problem I have with any of the AR15ish mounts is that while they give you a bit of a forward offset, they are way too high. I always feel like I never have a strong cheek weld; that I'm always floating about the stock.

If you aren't using a stock with an adjustable comb, like the PRS or the LMT version of same, look for a mount thats about 1.2-1.3" high. Bader's AR15 rings are 1.2something" high, and the Badger unimount is about 1.3" in the version with the cant. The unimount offers the advantage of being for cantilevered design if you need the eye-relief.
 
You may want to check the dimensions of your scope. Cheek weld, eye relief and the scope will dictate what mount you need. GH
 
The problem I have with any of the AR15ish mounts is that while they give you a bit of a forward offset, they are way too high. I always feel like I never have a strong cheek weld; that I'm always floating about the stock.

If you aren't using a stock with an adjustable comb, like the PRS or the LMT version of same, look for a mount thats about 1.2-1.3" high. Bader's AR15 rings are 1.2something" high, and the Badger unimount is about 1.3" in the version with the cant. The unimount offers the advantage of being for cantilevered design if you need the eye-relief.


Try the NightForce UniMount. It is Top Notch and holds zero perfectly. They make one that is 1.125" high with 20 MOA cant in 30mm. Model Number #A-190. This is perfect if you do not have an adjustable stock like the PRS. You can't go wrong with a NightForce Product. I have a NightForce UniMount on all of my scoped Tactical Weapons.
 
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+1 on Badger Unimount. Great guys to deal with as well(if you have any issues). Theyve always been around and have always taken good care of me and my mates.
 
FWIW, I just grabbed the Burris PEPR from Cabellas for 89.99 (Burris® AR-P.E.P.R™ Mount : Cabela's) and stuck my Burris MTAC 3.5x10x42 in it. First shouldering of my AR, the reticle line up was truly perfect. I checked it out standing, and prone and over and over and over again, I was right where I need to be. When I finish my 6.5g upper, I will be getting another PEPR for it.
 
FWIW, I just grabbed the Burris PEPR from Cabellas for 89.99 (Burris® AR-P.E.P.R™ Mount : Cabela's) and stuck my Burris MTAC 3.5x10x42 in it. First shouldering of my AR, the reticle line up was truly perfect. I checked it out standing, and prone and over and over and over again, I was right where I need to be. When I finish my 6.5g upper, I will be getting another PEPR for it.

I've owed many different mounts over the yrs, extra high rings, low rings with a riser, Larue's. For the $ I'm really liking the PEPR mounts. My scopes never get removed so I'm not worried about rezero. One piece mounts its hard to beat the Burris.
 
I've owed many different mounts over the yrs, extra high rings, low rings with a riser, Larue's. For the $ I'm really liking the PEPR mounts. My scopes never get removed so I'm not worried about rezero. One piece mounts its hard to beat the Burris.

Could you measure from the top of your rail to the middle of your scope tube. I have seen many different mounts similar to this that just are not high enough for me to get a comfortable cheek weld. Thanks.
 
I have been using the Aero extended mount for a while now, and really like it. I am interested in the new Aero SPR mount they are now making.
 
Could you measure from the top of your rail to the middle of your scope tube. I have seen many different mounts similar to this that just are not high enough for me to get a comfortable cheek weld. Thanks.

Well, the "best" measurement I could manage shows a height of 1.53". This is by no means 100% accurate, just the closest I could find without removing the optic. Hope this helps.

P.S. 30mm rings
 
The JPRifles mount is what I have primarily used. I have several of them as well as the WARNE SKEL mounts. The SKEL is close to the Ramp, but lighter. Both of my XTRII scopes are sitting in WARNE SKEL mounts.
 
Well, the "best" measurement I could manage shows a height of 1.53". This is by no means 100% accurate, just the closest I could find without removing the optic. Hope this helps.

P.S. 30mm rings

Thanks zlman 1.5" is about perfect for my cheek weld. The Nikon P-SERIES mounts that I have measures 1.375" ( which is to low for me ) but my old set up with low rings on top of a riser is 1.5".

PS: 1" rings.
 

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I have several types of mounts.
There are many good ones and in general this is what you might want to consider.
-Avoid too much cantilever. The larger the base and the smaller the hanging section, the better. This adds to rigidity that contributes to retaining zero even in abuse situations. Alloys bend when hit hard and specially aluminum faster than steel.
-Avoid exotic tie down ring systems. To columns of strong screws (minimum 4 for each ring) and wide sturdy rings. This distributes the load force on the scope tube too.
-Avoid mounts that "Bite" the rail. aluminum in the receiver gives. Instead go for a large area clamp and whether is screwed or QD it must be a nice piece to offer plenty of area for proper weld.

Keep in mind that some brands mil their own but many do OEM mills so it is nothing for them to make a new desing w/o proven efficiency.
With those simple directives there are many that work well OEM, branded OEM or proprietary milled at home.

The badger is good but a bit high on the $'s for what they give. Always good quality as tipical with badger.
American defense has some nice QD that do not hung too much on the cantilever. Very rigid.
Noveske has a nice QD one that not sure who cuts it but it seems very similar to the Ad-recon.
If on a budget a burris is an OEM that works well for the money.
Also Vortex has a nice one for a good price.

I hope this helps.
 
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The problem I have with any of the AR15ish mounts is that while they give you a bit of a forward offset, they are way too high. I always feel like I never have a strong cheek weld; that I'm always floating about the stock.

Try the NightForce UniMount. It is Top Notch and holds zero perfectly. They make one that is 1.125" high with 20 MOA cant in 30mm. Model Number #A-190. This is perfect if you do not have an adjustable stock like the PRS. You can't go wrong with a NightForce Product. I have a NightForce UniMount on all of my scoped Tactical Weapons.

I have the same problem, and the NightForce 1.125" unimount seems to be the only one low enough for me. Guess I'll have to come up with some extra cash...
 
I have the same problem, and the NightForce 1.125" unimount seems to be the only one low enough for me. Guess I'll have to come up with some extra cash...

I like my cheek weld with my cheek bone on top of stock. At 1.25" you must like your cheek bone along side and below the top of your stock. Am I correct???? The 1.125 mounts are used on bolt guns not ARs which we are talking about here I believe???
 
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He ain't the only one.

Badger's rings which they sell as AR15 rings are 1.265"
 
WOW, I stand corrected. You are the first that I have ever known that could have a comfortable cheek weld that low and still be able to look through the middle of your scope.

Maybe I should say freakishly skinny? (But my mom says I look normal...) ;) I do wear youth sunglasses.
I have an ACOG on my AR now, and with a solid cheek weld, my eye lines up with the bottom of the eye ring (i.e. below the glass). I think it's less of an issue with my narrow face and more to do with my short cheek bones.

I have a 10/22 with a hogue stock and a 1/2" cheek pad. 40mm thin walled scope that sits so low I can't fit the scope cap on, and it's still way too high for a good cheek weld. More like a "corner of the mouth weld." Hard to be consistent with that. I'm adding a slightly taller Vortex HS 44mm scope and probably gonna have to add to the cheek pad or get a taller combed stock.

With my other 10/22 and my 98 Mauser, I get perfect alignment with the open sights, so I don't think I'm doing anything terribly wrong.
 
Got the Nightforce 1.125" unimount, and it is a perfect fit. Never had a scope line up so naturally without a cheek pad!
 
I finally got my cheek weld correct with Warne Ultra High QD aluminum rings. It measures 1.5" from the top of Picatinny rail to center of scope tube. I had a set of P-SERIES mounts that measured 1.375" which was a little to low for my comfort.

PS: Scope looks bent, but it isn't it is the photo being distorted.
 

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I have used the DNZ mount you have listed. I chose it because of all the one piece mounts on the market, it has the most forward offset. It also had the lowest centerline when I decided to buy it (besides the nightforce 1.1 unimount).

It's a great mount. It held zero just fine, returned to zero just fine. Never had any issues with rigidity. Never left so much as a hint of a ring mark on either of the scopes I had mounted in it. It is *one of* the most versatile one piece mounts as far as eye relief and LOP is concerned.

The front cross bolt did come loose after it was torqued to spec but a drop of blue lok-tite cured it.

I sold it because the centerline was 0.125" too high. Maybe I'm picky, or maybe my scope just has an infinitesimal eye box. Either way it was a great mount and I'm disappointed it didn't work out. In fact I'm surprised it doesn't get more attention. It probably has something to do with the gimicky name. But alas, a rose by any other name...

*edit

I have a dnz mount on a carbine with a 3-9 bushnell. I've been very pleased with it, especially for the price.
 
I Have desided that I no longer want to have a QD mount on anything other than my ACOG(now has its own 16 inch upper). HAve you guys used any of these mounts? Will up grade to nightforce unimounts in the future


Vortex
Vortex Cantilever 1-Piece Extended Scope Mount Picatinny-Style

DNZ
DNZ Products Freedom Reaper Forward Ring 1-Piece Scope Base 30mm

Aero Precision
Ultralight 30mm Scope Mount, Extended - Scope Mounts



Scott

Go with Badger 1 piece, you will never need another mount.
 
I have several types of mounts.
There are many good ones and in general this is what you might want to consider.
-Avoid too much cantilever. The larger the base and the smaller the hanging section, the better. This adds to rigidity that contributes to retaining zero even in abuse situations. Alloys bend when hit hard and specially aluminum faster than steel.
-Avoid exotic tie down ring systems. To columns of strong screws (minimum 4 for each ring) and wide sturdy rings. This distributes the load force on the scope tube too.
-Avoid mounts that "Bite" the rail. aluminum in the receiver gives. Instead go for a large area clamp and whether is screwed or QD it must be a nice piece to offer plenty of area for proper weld.

Keep in mind that some brands mil their own but many do OEM mills so it is nothing for them to make a new desing w/o proven efficiency.
With those simple directives there are many that work well OEM, branded OEM or proprietary milled at home.

The badger is good but a bit high on the $'s for what they give. Always good quality as tipical with badger.
American defense has some nice QD that do not hung too much on the cantilever. Very rigid.
Noveske has a nice QD one that not sure who cuts it but it seems very similar to the Ad-recon.
If on a budget a burris is an OEM that works well for the money.
Also Vortex has a nice one for a good price.

I hope this helps.

Badger is LESS than most quality unimounts. Take a look at NF, SHPUR, AADAM, or similar. Badger has been a known quanity for long time and they know their shit.
He also stated he wanted to move AWAY from QD, which is very wise. QD and precision is an effort in futility.
 
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1409685814.167537.jpg

When it comes to heights I was asked by Noveske team to make new mounts that are longer and only 1,25" High.
They are certainly tighter to cheek but I feel that approx 9 out Of 10 prefer 1,25" height to 1,5"
 
They're back up sights. So.....you'd loosen the torx screws, remove the failed optic, and use your back up iron sights. Where's the confusion?
 
The problem I have with any of the AR15ish mounts is that while they give you a bit of a forward offset, they are way too high. I always feel like I never have a strong cheek weld; that I'm always floating about the stock.

If you aren't using a stock with an adjustable comb, like the PRS or the LMT version of same, look for a mount thats about 1.2-1.3" high. Bader's AR15 rings are 1.2something" high, and the Badger unimount is about 1.3" in the version with the cant. The unimount offers the advantage of being for cantilevered design if you need the eye-relief.

I have not experienced "way too high" from any of the AR unimounts out there except those designed to clear large objective bells over quad rails. Seems like most designs out there "get it", allowing for the full weight of the head to rest on the stock with eyeball squared to eyepiece for an ideal stock weld.
 
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