That is extremely impressive for dremel work! Good job!
- Thread starter TN Shooter
- Start date
I’ve always wondered about something and never asked….does anyone know why there are two designs of the top section of the adjustable stock?
That's a left handed chassis. The cheek piece elevator is also on the left side.
Sorry for the late reply.
Here's a pic of the action and where it interferes. I'm pretty sure that Falkor are at fault here. That corner line where the rounded bottom becomes a flat sided octagon is wider than a standard round receiver is at that point. I've since tried the action in another stocks and had the same problem. It even split the stock lengthways because the action's profile is acting like a wedge.
I think it's a great chassis it's so comfortable in the hand fits like a glove if you get one I don't think you'd be disappointed just the engineering and it is just phenomenal
Cool! I have never seen one in person but in pics it just looks right, and I don’t see anything about it I don’t like. Seen earlier in this thread where a couple disliked the size of the shoulder pad but probably that is probably more of a personal preference, since others said they liked it.
Fits and feel much better than what it looks like. At least for me.
Awesome! Thanks guys! I’ll go put more money in the piggy bank.
The cheek riser shape, buttstock width and shape, and the length of forearm are my problems with it. The forearm length is only an issue for me because I can't mount a harris bipod and fit a gamechanger underneath at the same time. I like to have this ability. The cheek riser just sucks, it's not comfortable for me. Same with butt pad. The extended magazine latch is awesome. The machining and quality of everything else are top notch. I'll never get rid of mine just because of how tight the mags lock up.
I think the cheek piece is ok but the recoil pad is my only gripe with mine. I just wish it was a little wider. That’s my only complaint and it’s not that big of deal as I am only shooting a 6Br.
Other than that I love it.
Other than that I love it.
Does anyone have any experience with a 22-24” proof carbon barrel in their Xylo? I’m mainly curious on how the balance is without weights, or how much added weight would be needed. Thanks
Also, is anyone making accessories? I would love one of the ambi cheek pieces that is shown here, and possibly a polymer bag rider in order to balance my vudoo without extra weights. Thanks
Also, is anyone making accessories? I would love one of the ambi cheek pieces that is shown here, and possibly a polymer bag rider in order to balance my vudoo without extra weights. Thanks
When I was doing load dev with my 7SAW I dropped it in my Xylo while waiting for my Manners LRH to ship.
Barrel is a fairly light contour #3 bartlein Sporter and no weight but I do use the extended arca because I like having my bipod as forward as a can.
It balanced perfectly ahead of the magwell.
Here’s how it sits on the RRS anvil with the anvil unlocked.
And yea not sure if I’m it’s because I’m not used to stocks anymore cause I have been shooting chassis almost exclusively in the past couple of years but I shot better with the Xylo than I did with the LRH.
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Thanks for the info.
A little late to the party, but I have a 20” proof .308 on mine. It’s a little tail heavy when balancing on a Shmedium GC up against the mag. When I put my Sandman S on the muzzle, she’s perfect. Balance is also perfect with my 27” HV contour 25x47L, with a brake
Photo on porch railing shows balance…
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First order of business was tung oiling those grips! Before and first soak.
I don't know why but I always hated the tool paths in the grips. I ended up buying the largest size and sanding them down until they fit perfect.
How does this compare to an XRS.? I prefer the XRS over my Bravo for the grip and overall ergonomics . Looking at a Xylo or Foundation for a possible upgrade
XRS isn't in the same class as the Xylo.
Its a bit fatter grip with a bit more distance to trigger than the vert grip xrs. Its not as fat as the bravo though to me. And you can whittle it down if you trust your wood working skills.
As far as the chassis as a whole, its much more comp driven to me than the xrs which is what I assume you are after talking about foundations and all. I might be able to get my xrs up to 20lb if I filled it with weights vs the 17 its at now with internal one set of sides and a proof comp contour. My xylo will get to 27 or so. And then I make my xrs fat with a long heavy barrel it has some harmonic resonation when on concrete that I see through the scope, didnt happen with my shorter lighter 223 in it though. If I slap mdt weights on the outside of the xrs the rrs bipod knob interferes with them and cant be turned and just barely drag but still will pass under if you have it rotated juuuust right.
The xylo is in another world though when the machining quality and feel comes into it compared to the xrs which is a budget chassis with plastic slapped on the side to hide the crude.
Actually i don’t do comps, just bench shooting for the most part but appreciate the feel, fit and finish of the equipment. My first was a Bravo and liked it alot…until I got the XRS, had a bit better feel especially with the grip (I have bigger hands) and overall build quality. I know I’ll never utilize the full functionality of the Xylo but that’s not my goal.
As far as it being in another league, if that translates into the aforementioned criteria then i think it may be worth the look. If it’s in another league just because it’s more of a chassis then I’m not interested.
Never enjoyed shooting my AR. I really enjoy shooting my Origin 6.5 creed with Proof comp barrel. I like the traditional stock/chassis feel and it seems the Xylo accomplishes this even though it’s technically a chassis.
I’ll keep the Bravo for hunting, just looking for a nice upgrade to the “feel” of shooting from a bench and sometimes prone.
Thanks for the replies
As far as the foundation stock, I’ve read numerous people say it’s the most comfortable stock/chassis they’ve ever used hence my interest there…and they look sweet
It’s the intricate details and finish that’s in another level to the xrs. Not just that it’s a chassis. The xylo cheek adjustment hardware probably takes as much machine time on the mill as the whole xrs. Which is why it costs twice as much.
I’d really want to feel one before I dropped a grand on a xylo or foundation. All things equal the xylo will be front heavy and the foundation will be butt heavy. Use barrel contour and weights to balance as necessary on both.
That’s why I use my Foundation with a 26in MTU and my Xylo with a 26in med Palma. No added weights required. Perfect balance.
When I put my MTU I simply move the rifle a little bit more fore and I use a area419 barricade stop which I remove when I run the mid Palma.
I’ll post some pics tomorrow
With a 26” 1.25 I had in it and the full gamut of weights that plus the weights added to the side of the steel butt rider aren’t enough. Perfectly manageable, but still nose heavy. My new 21” 1.12 muzzle heavy mtu seems to be perfect with the full weight set.
Edit: plus omega on the end
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I run 26" heavy varmint in my xylo with a tuner break. Balance seems fine. Gun weight with scope is ~19 lbs. No additional weights used.
This exactly but with a 27” Brux / Bartlein HV contour. Slightly heavier profile than an MTU.
Reference my pic earlier. Perfectly balanced on a bag on some front porch railing, using the magazine as a barricade stop.
How do you change out the slide rods?
The XYLO has toolless LOP / cheek adjustments. ARC has videos on their website. You literally just squeeze the buttstock (kinda like an AR…) and move it fore/aft for LOP adjustment. For the cheek riser, there is a tension knob (left side) to loosen (by hand) before turning a different knob (right side) to raise/lower the cheek piece. The lockup is like a vault, too.
You can buy longer ones if you have orangutan arms, but there are 8 detents on the included ones. Roughly 12.5” - 14.75” LOP range.
There are two small set screws on the left side of the stock. Remove the screws and the rods will slide out.
I'm not seeing that. I have a single large set screw that looks like it is holding in a couple of pins that hold in the rods. I can see the pins if I remove the set screw, but I cant figure out how to disengage the pins from the rods. Am I looking at this the wrong way? This exploded view helps to illustrate
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Nevermind, I figured it out
