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Night Vision Are clip-ons supposed to be close to the day scope

mjh30

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Aug 10, 2008
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That's basically the question are clip-ons, such as the 22 or 30 supposed to be close to the day optic.
 
thanks for the reply, I'm usually 2 inches away from the day optic, wasn't sure after reading the krg post if I had to be real close
 
For thermal clipon I want to be as close as possible ... the farther away ... the larger the display appears in the rear end ... the larger the display appears the sooner in terms of magnification ... it will start to fuzz up ... need to let the de-magnifier in the back end of the thermal clipons do its job by getting the clipon as close as possible ... of course with no chance of touching ... but as close as possible to the objective.
 
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For thermal clipon I want to be as close as possible ... the farther away ... the larger the display appears in the rear end ... the larger the display appears the sooner in terms of magnification ... it will start to fuzz up ... need to let the de-magnifier in the back end of the thermal clipons do its job by getting the clipon as close as possible ... of course with no chance of touching ... but as close as possible to the objective.
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Thats for thermals only or all clipons
 
I do it for all ... I've tested it for thermals ... right now the only nv clipon I have is a SIMRAD ... and the delivered light shade is still on there ... but if you have a PVS-22 or 30 be my guest and test it at different distances from the objective looking at something outside at say 500yds at max usable magnification and see if you can tell any difference. I definitely can with the thermals ... haven't tested specifically for that with the NVs.
 
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22 on Bravo with Tikka, too far 20181014_222214.jpg
 
That's basically the question are clip-ons, such as the 22 or 30 supposed to be close to the day optic.


Yes, they should be close and it is best if you have a cover for the bridge. See below:

enhance
 
Manufacturer’s rec’s for mounting a clip-on state that the optimum distance between the day optic objective and the CNVD is about the length of the swing of the lens cap. In practice, it is no less or more effective at any closer distance mounted to the objective.
Well I dug the above out in a search, now first to admit a little new to the nv world, havent had the chance to try in and out to see if theres a sweet spot with the 22. Anyone have mounting instructions from manufacturer on positioning.
 
"As close as possible but not touching" and "use the velcro light guard over the gap".

It can even be off a little vertically and/or canted as with a +MOA mount. The collimated clip ons are pretty forgiving.
 
At almost every class we run, we do multiple nights of night fire.
Almost every time, I will do a demo to demonstrate that with a "quality" clip on that is known to be in calibration the distance and angle is not super critical to POI difference.

So far I have done this with several 22s, 27s and my own 30.

On the first night we have everyone do a POI test on their units and then repeat. After doing this at least twice and making sure everybody is tracking on what we are looking for, what is acceptable shift and why....I will pick one of the shooters that seems to have his (excuse me for assuming their gender) shit together (consistent grouping and little or no POI shift with NV vs white light) to help with the demo. All of these diagnostics are done at 100 yds on specific paper targets.

I will have the officer mount the clip on then tweak the focus and gain to what they think is best image.
I will then get on my knees to the side of their rifle, remove the clip on and literally hand hold it in front of their day scope while they fire 3 rounds. When neither of us has our heads up our ass, the 3 rounds will usually overlap the group fired just previously without NV.

My point in doing this for the class is to show that with quality equipment that is properly calibrated, it can be very forgiving. They have all heard experts telling them that if there is a POI shift it is always because distance/angle to the scope is wrong or the front rail is wrong.

During my demo, there is absolutely no way my dumb white ass is holding the unit the same from shot to shot in front of their scopes but the POI shift is minimal (less than 1 MOA) or non-existent. Usually the later.

My 2 cents on checking image sharpness with the clip on spaced different distances from the front of your scope would be to do so on a bench at 50 or 100 yds while looking at a printed black and white target grid or other print containing letters, numbers or grids that you try to resolve.

Night shooting can still have shitty air to look through so I would not want to try any image judging at distance just in case. If it is sharp and clear at close range, it will be GTG at distance. If you are checking at distance only, are there environmentals out there that effect your image that you can't even detect ....you know.... because it's like dark outside....?

I am no expert but we are fortunate to see a lot of brands and models of clip on NV come through the classes so just like an asshole, I have an opinion. We have seen some brands with amazing images that can't stay calibrated for shit. The good ones are amazing as long as they haven't been dropped down the stairs.


./
 
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I keep 1/2inch or so between my CO-LR and Tango6 5x30. I wish I had 3x15, I think it would have worked better.
 
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