I actually formulate products in that industry and ill just leave it at that. Continue on.
Automobile Maintenance Question
- Thread starter BullGear
- Start date
I actually formulate products in that industry and ill just leave it at that. Continue on.
This, except I do brakes min every year.
Track car every track session, so 10x per year or more, but brake fluid is very hygroscopic and should be flushed annually at a minimum. When I (or a family member) needs to hit the brakes, I want them at max performance capability.
Well, most of my cars have been Toyota’s. Not a fan of American cars really but decided to go back American or somewhat American for this last SUV. I probably should have stuck with Toyota. I’ve had multiple Toyota’s that all I ever did was basic maintenance on, like change the oil and filter, tires, brakes and only added coolant etc. last well over 400k. My last Toyota I sold worth 460k miles on it for $3000. It’s still going strong. Had another one that had over 800k on it and last I heard it’s still running just fine. Amazing. With that said I don’t know about today’s Toyota. I’m not sold on Jeep and hope I didn’t make a mistake buying it. I’m worried about it and while I used to like doing maintenance I actually hate it now and never have time for it and don’t want to pay anyone to do it either.
Oh, forgot to mention, all I ever ran in those Toyota’s was Mobil 1 fully synthetic. I also think break in is stupid. Just like on breaking in barrels, most people put far more thought into this crap than necessary. I’ve never broken in a barrel aside from shooting it and they have all been more accurate than I am. 1/4-1/2moa all day long in every one of my bolt actions. No break in, no special cleaning etc. just shoot the damn thing. Or in a cars case, just drive it. Forget all that break in crap.
Oh, forgot to mention, all I ever ran in those Toyota’s was Mobil 1 fully synthetic. I also think break in is stupid. Just like on breaking in barrels, most people put far more thought into this crap than necessary. I’ve never broken in a barrel aside from shooting it and they have all been more accurate than I am. 1/4-1/2moa all day long in every one of my bolt actions. No break in, no special cleaning etc. just shoot the damn thing. Or in a cars case, just drive it. Forget all that break in crap.
Last edited:
I keep an eye on the fluid color as far as the brakes are concerned. IF I tow a lot, like mountain driving, then yeah, once a year.
When I raced mx/desert on bikes, once a season. Like I said, I swear by syn. oils/fluids. I raced in Ca. and Nev., so, there wasn't much humidity/temp. changes during the season to worry about. Even my standards/crotch rockets/geezer bikes, didn't get changed until I needed to replace pads (same climate).
I always paid attention to the diaphragms in the res.. If the fluid got low enough to were there was an air gap between it and the fluid, due to wear, it got topped off. That's were moisture will collect and degrade the system. I've got over 300+k on street legal bikes (32 from last count), not counting all the racing miles I've racked up back in the day. Mac
Ok, let's leave any dick measuring aside and make a honest attempt at illuminating our audience with real information and science.
I apologize to you as I took you as the average layman in the industry. Sincerely, I apologize for that.
So, let's discuss differences between Group I through Group V base stocks. Why Total Base Number is important and what it does (directly to what you claim you do). Let's discuss differences in hydrocarbon chains and what it means specifically to the different base stock groups and why that makes a difference in the performance of the oil in question.
Lastly, let's talk about why Chevron Delo has so much more boron in its blend then say Delvac or Rotello and what that means? How about the loss of zinc in oil and its effect on flat tappet camshafts like used with Cummins diesels and yet current CK-4 rated oils claim to offer more protection than say older CJ-4 rated oil? (I liked CI oil better with higher levels of zinc- saved me a lot of money on STP and Joe Gibbs break in oil).
I didn't mention the specific ASTM tests before because I would rather have folks do their own research and make up their own mind rather than me trying to sound like some expert, which I claim not.
However, the Amsoil was superior in a number of important areas to include (but not all) the bearing wear scar test, cold flow test, thermal cook off test ( my words, not theirs), and TBN.
Again, I only seek information and knowledge. I have an open mind and look forward to hearing what you have to put forward to change my mind.
Frankly, everything I have learned to date tells me that Amsoil is #1 overall, generally speaking, with Pennzoil Platinum a close second. Redline and Shaeffers 9000 right after them. Frankly, I think most of the popular brands will do the job just fine, but we are here to separate the wheat from the chaff. Some folks demand that.
On edit, what's your opinion on the lawsuit between Mobil 1 and Castrol Syntech?
Last edited:
I change oil when I get around to it, aim for 10,000kms but up to 25,000 isn't unheard-of.
I meant to change my coolant about 2 years ago after doing a radiator flush but have just been running 100% water since then. Pretty sure it was straight water the previous 5 years of ownership too.
Flushed brake fluid 6months ago after replacing master cylinder due to internal leak, previous 7 years hadn't bothered to change it.
Hope this helps.
I meant to change my coolant about 2 years ago after doing a radiator flush but have just been running 100% water since then. Pretty sure it was straight water the previous 5 years of ownership too.
Flushed brake fluid 6months ago after replacing master cylinder due to internal leak, previous 7 years hadn't bothered to change it.
Hope this helps.
There would be no need to discuss the differences between group 1 through 5 as I am assuming you are referencing synthetic blends which would consist of group 4 base fluids (PAO) of which I do not believe Amsoil actually produces (ExxonMobil, Chevron, Durasyn). Between those manufacturers you have conventional and metallocene based PAO's (conventional is mainly used for motor oil). Differences in structure even among the metallocene catalyzed PAO's are very minute with some differences in branching (slightly lower pour point being the main effect).
Due to the polarity issue of PAO's, an ester is usually added to aid in solubilizing the polar additives.
TBN is important in this specific application because it helps neutralize acidic contaminants produced from combustion and base fluid oxidation. It can also point to the concentration of aminic anti-oxidants in the base fluid.
Zinc (ZDDP) dropout occurs in the base fluid or by itself it is the the nature of the product and can depend on what alcohol (or alcohols) were used to react with sulfurous pentoxide. Manufacturers are reducing the zinc due to environmental concerns and using Boron additives to try and displace some efficiency loss which is why you see higher boron concentrations. ZDDP was/is used because it is cheap and it works however there ashless alternatives which some manufacturers have started looking at/using (phosphite, phosphate and phosphonate).
There are maximum concentrations of phosphorous, sulfur, boron ect... that are allowed in an engine oil. The amount of actual additive is quite small due to this restraint.
As far as changing your mind, the tests you are talking about do not delineate real-world performance. The 4-ball wear test you describe...think about the contact geometry and how that would actually relate to a moving part on a car. It doesn't accurately reflect the real world but it is a useful screening tool.
The only test that would actually matter is to take a few hundred cars with similar metallurgy/ surface profile on their parts and drive them the exact same amount, same weather conditions, same driver ect. Then look at each part and examine the wear.
Will formulations differ? Yes, are they "vastly" different...no they are not. Want to know why? They purchase their additives/ ad packs from the same companies thus they are working with the same tools.
At one time, I knew a "Regional Sales Rep" for lubricating oils and the short version is, he stated pretty-much the same thing as you. When I then asked if there was ANY advantage of purchasing one brand over another, his answer (at the time) was "if you were to purchase Valvoline, then you would be supporting Canadian workers because they have a plant in Ontario. All the rest come from the U.S.A."
Kinda says something there, eh?
(and I'm sure it goes without saying, that yeah, I DO live in Canuckistania)
Pretty much this. The real challenge is making an additive that works in base fluids around the globe. I can put an additive package that works beautifully in a group 1 base fluid from Exxon/Chevron. When I put that same additive package in a base fluid from South America it may fail miserably. The universal grease/oil additive doesn't exist due to the fluctuating properties of the fluids.
This pain is experienced in every industry though and is not unique to industrial lubricants. Makes formulating/testing a frustrating but interesting endeavor.
I think I've derailed the thread a bit so back on topic lol.
All I want to know is whether the Mobil 1 fully synthetic ive always run is crap or not? As stated above ive had many Toyota’s run between 400k-800k. I’m not sure if that has anything to do with the oil or just the build quality of Toyota’s but I only ran Mobil 1 in all of them.
I think you've answered your own question. Regardless of the quality of the car build, if the oil sucked, you wouldn't be getting that mileage from your cars.
There are oil snobs just like any other product. My wife's cousin is one. He uses 1 specific oil and anyone who doesn't use the same is sub-human. He spends $100 on products for his oil changes.
The most important thing about oil is to CHANGE IT regularly
That is way more important than which oil you use in a typical grocery getter in the year 2021
Mobil I use to be a better oil, when compared to other oils of the same time and rating (sometime before 2005)
Its still a good oil today, especially for the cost
That is way more important than which oil you use in a typical grocery getter in the year 2021
Mobil I use to be a better oil, when compared to other oils of the same time and rating (sometime before 2005)
Its still a good oil today, especially for the cost
The most important thing about oil is to CHANGE IT regularly
That is way more important than which oil you use in a typical grocery getter in the year 2021
Mobil I use to be a better oil, when compared to other oils of the same time and rating (sometime before 2005)
Its still a good oil today, especially for the cost
Yup, you'll get a filter failure before a oil failure.
