Missing a lot of technical information in the first post. So if there is more info later in the thread, I didn't catch it. There was no mention of the ground plates that need to be installed. Also, I would never anodize to 75 degrees in a home setup. If your agitation is not perfect, you'll ruin the part. Keep your temp right around 70-72 at the most. I run mine at 68, which is perfect for me.
I built mine out of a big 50 gallon black tote from Home Depot. Lined the inside of it with lead strip from a roofing store. Ran PVC throughout the bottom with .150" (if I remember right) holes connected to the largest fountain pump home depot sold. The battery acid eats the internals of the pump so I remove it after I am done and neutralize the acid in the pump. I use an aquarium chiller to keep the temperature from getting above 68 degrees. I then use a sealed bucket of hot water to raise the temp of the bath if it is below 68 degrees. Not a fan of heaters. If your part touches it, it grounds your system.
Then I ran my racks across the top of the tote with simple aluminum bar. It corrodes, but it takes quite awhile for it to happen. Positive goes to the rack. Negative to the ground lead. Power supply was a 30A controlled current system (better than the controlled voltage like the OP). Reason for this is as the anodic layer builds (anodizing) the resistance will rise which means your supplied voltage will need to rise as well.
Any questions, feel free to ask.
Anodizing is NOT easy though. Don't get started in it unless you have a lot of patience and time to put into it. If you think your part is clean...clean it again! Temperatures are extremely critical
Wow that' some serious stuff. The only thing I would add is appropriate labels for the tanks. Sure he might know what's in them but in case of an emergency ( a fire or whatever) rescuer/fireb/police should know as well.