• Watch Out for Scammers!

    We've now added a color code for all accounts. Orange accounts are new members, Blue are full members, and Green are Supporters. If you get a message about a sale from an orange account, make sure you pay attention before sending any money!

  • Site updates coming next Wednesday at 8am CT!

    The site will be down for routine maintenance on Wednesday 6/5 starting at 8am CT. If you have any questions, please PM alexj-12!

Gunsmithing Badger FTE install questions...(thread timing)

ProudKiwi

Private
Full Member
Minuteman
Jun 13, 2010
32
0
47
New Zealand
Hi all,

When a customer asks to have an FTE installed is it common practice to time the threads so that it pulls up on the shoulder wih the cross bolt at the bottom?

Cheers in advance
 
you can do that with the thread shoulder, I would not do that with the shoulder for the clamp. If the brake is over timed a little I would not sweat it. thats what the clamp is for
 
On the handful of these brakes that I've installed for myself, I've never bother trying to time it to stop against the shoulder. They end up looking just fine. This is the whole purpose of having the pinch clamp, no?
 
It's out by about 3/4's of a turn.

My concern was that the play in the threads would allow enough movement for the possibility of bullet strike if it wasn't pulled up on the shoulder.

If you think that the doing the cross bolt up will resolve that issue that works for me.
 
If you cut the thread and cylindrical tenon to the print dimensions and tolerances, and open the bore to the specified diameter (which I think is 0.030" over the bullet diameter), then you shouldn't have any issues. The print calls for a Class 3A thread (which for a 5/8-24 thread yields a maximum of around 0.007" difference between the pitch diameters of the internal and external thread); that alone is going to minimize the run-out, and it just gets better once you snug down that clamp on what should be a nice slip-fit over the tenon.
 
Last edited: