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Suppressors Baffle Strikes...

#51
Re: Baffle Strikes...

..


Think of it as a speed adapter...an adapter with a brake...treat it accordingly.

http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2197090#Post2197090

"1. factory barrel? factory threading? Why is this important? Well, far too many "smiths" actually center off of the OD of the barrel, not the ID. If your threading is factory, if your barrel is a good quality house, if your smith is known to center off ID, then we can set aside most issues relating to the centricity of the barrel threading Why most issues? Well, we need to ask questions as to nature and design of the barrel flat (shoulder) and the rear (mate) of the adapter on BOTH ends.

2. What adapter? Who made it? What caliber under bore? To what can? Why is this important? Few adapter makers center of OD, but I have seen them. Add an OD barrel to an OD adapter to some brand cans and the probability of strike increase geometrically. ID barrel, ID adapter...we look to the can. Adapter makers take the brunt of misalignment issues, even when their adapters are perfect. Why? The OAL length increase prior to the can of an off threading exacerbates the barrels problems. When you thread on the adapter, did it feel as if it was "riding tight" on the barrel threads? Was it loose? Same when you thread on the can? Tight? Loose? Knowing the adapter maker will answer allot of questions. "



 
#52
Re: Baffle Strikes...

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Salmonaxe</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I've been under the impression that the shoulder being square to the bore axis of the barrel was just as important (If not more so.) than concentricity of the threads themselves. I've noted that even my noveske bbls have a bit of wiggle when threading suppressors on until it snugs up on the shoulder.

It would be nice to know what barrel manufacturers take into account suppressor usage on their barrels.

Sending every barrel out to be checked and fixed would be an expensive endeavor. I'd much rather have a guarantee that it would work directly from the manufacturer.

On my AR's I try and test as best as I can for concentricity and squareness. I use a quality one piece cleaning rod that's the same bore diameter in conjunction with a bore guide and some orings on the rod for a decent fit in the bore guide. With the rod hanging straight up and down so it doesn't flex I observe the tip of the rod right as it passes the endcap. If it looks evenly spaced all the way around in different light, I consider it good. I remove and replace the suppressor a few times to double check.

I don't know if this is standard practice, but it seemed like a decent enough way to check a thing like this. </div></div>

I think Noveske guarantees their barrel threading.... They have the most high quality barrels for an AR in my opinion. I have handled others but Noveske has the best track record in my book.
 
#53
Re: Baffle Strikes...

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: KYS338</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
I think Noveske guarantees their barrel threading.... They have the most high quality barrels for an AR in my opinion. I have handled others but Noveske has the best track record in my book. </div></div>

It is not an issue of poor quality. Most proper threads have a little "play" to them for a thread-mount suppressor until the suppressor seats against the shoulder. I agree that John cuts some great threads. Use his threads with 100% confidence.
 
#54
Re: Baffle Strikes...

..

Right!

Take the vast majority of reasonably well made barrel/threadings, directly mount a thread on can. Your done.

All the talk about requiring extra special threading or shoulder work is not at issue. The issue in this thread is clear, the tolerances of QD are fundamentally different than thread on. Those tolerances, found in both the adapter and the can require particular attention to proper initial mounting and constant vigilence in use. Take the time to set-up properly, keep your can on tight and your done.

You do not need Noveske to use QD, you can buy Del-Ton, DPMS, BushMaster, RRA, Black Star, etc. etc. and the threadings are in spec. and ready to go. What happened in this thread would have happened with a custom turned Lija barrel hand lapped by virgins.

Neither Blue nor Red Loctite won't do the job. BLue requires no heat, Red requires heat....to unlock.

 
#55
Re: Baffle Strikes...

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: RollingThunder51</div><div class="ubbcode-body">..

Right!

Take the vast majority of reasonably well made barrel/threadings, directly mount a thread on can. Your done.

All the talk about requiring extra special threading or shoulder work is not at issue. The issue in this thread is clear, the tolerances of QD are fundamentally different than thread on. Those tolerances, found in both the adapter and the can require particular attention to proper initial mounting and constant vigilence in use. Take the time to set-up properly, keep your can on tight and your done.

You do not need Noveske to use QD, you can buy Del-Ton, DPMS, BushMaster, RRA, Black Star, etc. etc. and the threadings are in spec. and ready to go. What happened in this thread would have happened with a custom turned Lija barrel hand lapped by virgins.

Neither Blue nor Red Loctite won't do the job. BLue requires no heat, Red requires heat....to unlock.

</div></div>

Probably why I said HIGH HEAT LOCTITE.....
 
#56
Re: Baffle Strikes...

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: KYS338</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: RollingThunder51</div><div class="ubbcode-body">..

Right!

Take the vast majority of reasonably well made barrel/threadings, directly mount a thread on can. Your done.

All the talk about requiring extra special threading or shoulder work is not at issue. The issue in this thread is clear, the tolerances of QD are fundamentally different than thread on. Those tolerances, found in both the adapter and the can require particular attention to proper initial mounting and constant vigilence in use. Take the time to set-up properly, keep your can on tight and your done.

You do not need Noveske to use QD, you can buy Del-Ton, DPMS, BushMaster, RRA, Black Star, etc. etc. and the threadings are in spec. and ready to go. What happened in this thread would have happened with a custom turned Lija barrel hand lapped by virgins.

Neither Blue nor Red Loctite won't do the job. BLue requires no heat, Red requires heat....to unlock.

</div></div>

Probably why I said HIGH HEAT LOCTITE..... </div></div>
Are you talking about the 650 degree stuff? Not a good idea; unless they have something more suitable for higher temps? Would probably be ok on a bolt gun but not a semi or select fire!
 
#57
Re: Baffle Strikes...

Tac weld it on
laugh.gif


To clarify, I'm just joking about that!
 
#59
Re: Baffle Strikes...

I think all loctite is machinery grade; just diff applications!
Care to share at your convenience the part number? Not so certain 900 degrees is adequate but sure is better then the red stuff.
 
#62
Re: Baffle Strikes...

This is just a statement. Not an expert.

My can aligned properly against the shoulder, but kept coming undone. This would screw-up my dope and my rounds where all over the place.

Told my 'smith to chop the barrel off and rethread it w/tighter tolerances. There is not as much play when I screw the can on. The threads expand when I throw a couple rounds and the barrel heats up. The can does not come off easy.

I do not have issues w/dope anymore.

Hope this helps.

-Al
 
#64
Re: Baffle Strikes...

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Turk</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I think all loctite is machinery grade; just diff applications!
Care to share at your convenience the part number? Not so certain 900 degrees is adequate but sure is better then the red stuff. </div></div>

Made by Caterpillar not Loc Tite. I was misreading the labels. Unless your a cat machinery owner, you wont be getting any. When you have these short bolts with 100-150 pounds of torque on them you have to use this stuff or over time they can back out due to vibration and heat. The heat on these engines is extreme running on 12hr shifts.
 
#65
Re: Baffle Strikes...

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Turk</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><span style="color: #FF0000">I think all loctite is machinery grade</span>; just diff applications!
Care to share at your convenience the part number? Not so certain 900 degrees is adequate but sure is better then the red stuff. </div></div>

Not really.

By machinery do you mean RC cars? Some Loctite has no business on any type of machinery.... Red tube would probably be the lightest you can use. You have to consider size of bolt, torque being applied and in what application. I know they even make Marine Grade Loctite.
 
#70
Re: Baffle Strikes...

we expiremented with the oring, and still are on some pistol cans. on the rifle cans we have not been able to get them to maintain a zero after multiple removals, the oring starts to tear and changes the final point at which the suppressor tightens against the barrel. that being said, after we milled a relief slot it worked much better, but it did not provide anything that running it without didn't. on the hk45 usp tactical we use the same o ring setup they do, and on the m9 we modify the cuts to prevent backing off. BTW yes i am employed by a suppressor manufacturer, and hope i did not offend anyone
 
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