Gunsmithing Barrel Floating Question
- Thread starter irondude
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Re: Barrel Floating Question
Patience and sandpaper are your friend. When you think you have done enough...check it and sand a little more.
Patience and sandpaper are your friend. When you think you have done enough...check it and sand a little more.
Re: Barrel Floating Question
Slow and easy gets the job done with sand paper and different size dowels. Just take your time.
Slow and easy gets the job done with sand paper and different size dowels. Just take your time.
Re: Barrel Floating Question
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: keydiverfla</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Patience and sandpaper are your friend. When you think you have done enough...check it and sand a little more. </div></div>
And if you get tired of sanding, just stop and work on it another time. Getting in a hurry can cause it not to turn out so well.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: keydiverfla</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Patience and sandpaper are your friend. When you think you have done enough...check it and sand a little more. </div></div>
And if you get tired of sanding, just stop and work on it another time. Getting in a hurry can cause it not to turn out so well.
Re: Barrel Floating Question
I use the Gunline Tools barrel bedding tools from Brownell's - they are quick but precise and don't cost that much. I have both the Jr. model and the larger one with different sized discs for different sized barrel/channels. You can get the rig you need for less than $30.
I use the Gunline Tools barrel bedding tools from Brownell's - they are quick but precise and don't cost that much. I have both the Jr. model and the larger one with different sized discs for different sized barrel/channels. You can get the rig you need for less than $30.
Re: Barrel Floating Question
A hammer and sharp chisel for roughing and sandpaper and a piece of dowel or pipe for finishing. If you want to spend the money you can get a set of woodworking gouges and do it quicker than with either sandpaper methods, but the inletting tools will work as fast and probably cost less.
A hammer and sharp chisel for roughing and sandpaper and a piece of dowel or pipe for finishing. If you want to spend the money you can get a set of woodworking gouges and do it quicker than with either sandpaper methods, but the inletting tools will work as fast and probably cost less.
Re: Barrel Floating Question
I just floated the wood stock on my Marlin 917V while snowed in a few weeks ago. I used a socket from my toolbox that just fit the stock barrel channel, then wrapped the sandpaper around it and sanded slowly and tested the float with my action. It turned out much better than the hogging out of my plastic SPS stock with a Dremel
. If you need more space, go to a slightly bigger size socket once you've got it opened up a little or double the paper over.
I just floated the wood stock on my Marlin 917V while snowed in a few weeks ago. I used a socket from my toolbox that just fit the stock barrel channel, then wrapped the sandpaper around it and sanded slowly and tested the float with my action. It turned out much better than the hogging out of my plastic SPS stock with a Dremel
Re: Barrel Floating Question
A barrel channel scraper will work nicely and quickly followed by some sandpaper.
A barrel channel scraper will work nicely and quickly followed by some sandpaper.
Re: Barrel Floating Question
Hello gents, I don't post often, but this one caught my eye.
When looking to free-float a stock, just make sure the fore end is stiff enough to accept the channel mod. I experimented with a couple "cheap" factory rifle stocks. After sufficient sanding to gently float a mere sporter weight, they flexed easily enough to contact the bbl by simply letting the bipod-equipped rifle tap the ground. Just sayin'.
Hello gents, I don't post often, but this one caught my eye.
When looking to free-float a stock, just make sure the fore end is stiff enough to accept the channel mod. I experimented with a couple "cheap" factory rifle stocks. After sufficient sanding to gently float a mere sporter weight, they flexed easily enough to contact the bbl by simply letting the bipod-equipped rifle tap the ground. Just sayin'.
Re: Barrel Floating Question
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Maverick-553</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Hello gents, I don't post often, but this one caught my eye.
When looking to free-float a stock, just make sure the fore end is stiff enough to accept the channel mod. I experimented with a couple "cheap" factory rifle stocks. After sufficient sanding to gently float a mere sporter weight, they flexed easily enough to contact the bbl by simply letting the bipod-equipped rifle tap the ground. Just sayin'.
</div></div>
Wood stocks? How much did you take out if so? I know synthetic will flex but there is ways to fix it.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Maverick-553</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Hello gents, I don't post often, but this one caught my eye.
When looking to free-float a stock, just make sure the fore end is stiff enough to accept the channel mod. I experimented with a couple "cheap" factory rifle stocks. After sufficient sanding to gently float a mere sporter weight, they flexed easily enough to contact the bbl by simply letting the bipod-equipped rifle tap the ground. Just sayin'.
</div></div>
Wood stocks? How much did you take out if so? I know synthetic will flex but there is ways to fix it.
Re: Barrel Floating Question
When you are working to float the barrel how far back should you go? Do your sand all the way back to the action?
When you are working to float the barrel how far back should you go? Do your sand all the way back to the action?
Re: Barrel Floating Question
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: XxBoomerxX</div><div class="ubbcode-body">When you are working to float the barrel how far back should you go? Do your sand all the way back to the action? </div></div>
Yes all the way to the action.......
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: XxBoomerxX</div><div class="ubbcode-body">When you are working to float the barrel how far back should you go? Do your sand all the way back to the action? </div></div>
Yes all the way to the action.......
Re: Barrel Floating Question
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: strangedays</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Maverick-553</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Hello gents, I don't post often, but this one caught my eye.
When looking to free-float a stock, just make sure the fore end is stiff enough to accept the channel mod. I experimented with a couple "cheap" factory rifle stocks. After sufficient sanding to gently float a mere sporter weight, they flexed easily enough to contact the bbl by simply letting the bipod-equipped rifle tap the ground. Just sayin'.
</div></div>
Wood stocks? How much did you take out if so? I know synthetic will flex but there is ways to fix it. </div></div>
Both synthetic. I did not remove an excessive amount - just enough to float the barrel. One was a stock from a Wby. Vanguard custom. It was the desert camo extra, not the black synthetic factory stock. I removed the pressure points from the Vanguard stock as they were the only points of contact with the barrel. The other one was a cheapo plastic stock on a Rem. 710. Again, just experimenting as I figured they aren't the highest quality - certainly, the plastic 710 is no beauty.
Haven't had any chance to upgrade those actions to better stocks though. Still shoot an impressively consistent 1.5moa or better considering the bare-bones factory rifles they are.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: strangedays</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Maverick-553</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Hello gents, I don't post often, but this one caught my eye.
When looking to free-float a stock, just make sure the fore end is stiff enough to accept the channel mod. I experimented with a couple "cheap" factory rifle stocks. After sufficient sanding to gently float a mere sporter weight, they flexed easily enough to contact the bbl by simply letting the bipod-equipped rifle tap the ground. Just sayin'.
</div></div>
Wood stocks? How much did you take out if so? I know synthetic will flex but there is ways to fix it. </div></div>
Both synthetic. I did not remove an excessive amount - just enough to float the barrel. One was a stock from a Wby. Vanguard custom. It was the desert camo extra, not the black synthetic factory stock. I removed the pressure points from the Vanguard stock as they were the only points of contact with the barrel. The other one was a cheapo plastic stock on a Rem. 710. Again, just experimenting as I figured they aren't the highest quality - certainly, the plastic 710 is no beauty.
Haven't had any chance to upgrade those actions to better stocks though. Still shoot an impressively consistent 1.5moa or better considering the bare-bones factory rifles they are.
Re: Barrel Floating Question
what sandpaper grit do you recommend for a synthetic stock, beginning and for finishing. Thanks
what sandpaper grit do you recommend for a synthetic stock, beginning and for finishing. Thanks
Re: Barrel Floating Question
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ARCOREY</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I just floated the wood stock on my Marlin 917V while snowed in a few weeks ago. I used a socket from my toolbox that just fit the stock barrel channel, then wrapped the sandpaper around it and sanded slowly and tested the float with my action. It turned out much better than the hogging out of my plastic SPS stock with a Dremel
. If you need more space, go to a slightly bigger size socket once you've got it opened up a little or double the paper over. </div></div> Hi, my new 917v will accept a couple dollar bills to be slid back to the barrel lug but, would like to remove a little more wood. what size socket did you find to work well with your? Thanks!
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ARCOREY</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I just floated the wood stock on my Marlin 917V while snowed in a few weeks ago. I used a socket from my toolbox that just fit the stock barrel channel, then wrapped the sandpaper around it and sanded slowly and tested the float with my action. It turned out much better than the hogging out of my plastic SPS stock with a Dremel
Re: Barrel Floating Question
I have used 1" sandpaper from a roll backed by a 1 1/2 inch thin cotton strip. loosen action if needed to get started.
just loop under barell and pull back and forth working your way from shoulder to forend tip add more cotton strips when you stop getting dust. perfect gap between barell and wood.
I have used 1" sandpaper from a roll backed by a 1 1/2 inch thin cotton strip. loosen action if needed to get started.
just loop under barell and pull back and forth working your way from shoulder to forend tip add more cotton strips when you stop getting dust. perfect gap between barell and wood.
Re: Barrel Floating Question
Remington 700's have contact points near the front of forearm to apply a small amount of pressure on the barrel. If you will bed the action first you can save yourself a lot of sanding. When you bed the rifle don't over tighten the action screws. Tighten the action screws just enough so that the barrel lightly (and I mean lightly) touches the contact point in the stock. I have seen some Remingtons that the barrels center line had dropped below the top edge of the stock when trying to free float the barrel without bedding the action first.
Remington 700's have contact points near the front of forearm to apply a small amount of pressure on the barrel. If you will bed the action first you can save yourself a lot of sanding. When you bed the rifle don't over tighten the action screws. Tighten the action screws just enough so that the barrel lightly (and I mean lightly) touches the contact point in the stock. I have seen some Remingtons that the barrels center line had dropped below the top edge of the stock when trying to free float the barrel without bedding the action first.
