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If you have another suitable method to hold the action to torque it, use it.
Yes, you can use shim stock or other materials to turn the go gauge into a no-go gauge
Yes, you can use shim stock or other materials to turn the go gauge into a no-go gauge
Use the proper wrench to change the barrel. You will be happier in the long run.
I use neither. I use shouldered prefits and screw them on. If you are using a barrel nut then you should have at least the go gauge.
I use neither. I use shouldered prefits and screw them on. If you are using a barrel nut then you should have at least the go gauge.
Yes, $90 isn’t the end of the world when talking about a custom rifle build.
Yes, I check with both GO & NO-GO gauges. Because if you’re no-go works properly (doesn’t close), but you never check to see if your go fits, you could have a short chambered barrel with an improper headspace and no ammo will fit. Best to have both for the cheap insurance. A good set of Dave Manson gauges will run you like $90. Also worth every penny. Especially in the case of things like the Creedmoor cartridges. The way Dave builds his gauges, they will work with ALL Creedmoor cartridges (.22, 6mm, .25, 6.5, 7, .30, etc…) so they will come in handy for more than 1 rifle build.
Perhaps I'm wrong, but it seems like you'd screw the barrel onto the action a bit, put the no-go gauge in and close the bolt, screw the barrel in till it bottoms out on the gauge, open the bolt, thread it in a 1/4 turn or so till the bolt won't close and you're done.
After the first install you'd want to match the headspace of the last time you installed that barrel using some fire-formed brass.
After the first install you'd want to match the headspace of the last time you installed that barrel using some fire-formed brass.
for that scenario, yeah.
Sorry no help then. Not sure why you would do that and make your life harder when you can use shouldered prefits.
You don't verify with shouldered prefits? at least on the first install?
I would verify with every barrel (including shouldered prefits), especially on the first install so you KNOW it’s been chambered correctly.
Nope. I shoot them with factory ammo and then measure the shoulders to see growth. I get most of mine from PVA who I trust and have 7 now and never and issue.
Brownells had the solus wrench on sale for 75.00 when I bought mine. It's pretty nice and action specific wrench is nice to use on any $$ action. I use a go gage and metal spacers cut to fit bolt face from feeler gage, .001,.0015, .002, .0025, 003, .004, and .005. I can record what headspace is on every barrel and what it was torqued on at.
I have never checked headspace on any of my barrels with gauges. Right or wrong that’s up to each person to decide. If I shot factory ammo I would think that it’s a bigger deal but for me, I only shoot hand loads.
I shoot a few pieces of brass, measure the shoulders and then adjust the dies to match the chamber. I don’t understand why people get so ruffled about headspace. Consider fire forming dasher or any AI case. Basically too much headspace on the first firing and the brass forms to the chamber. You don’t hear of people having catastrophic failures forming the above?????
Just my thoughts on the matter and what has worked for me.
If I was going to use a barrel nut barrel I would take a sized piece of brass and use that as my gauge and save it for that purpose so every time I changed the barrel I could set it back to the same spot.
I shoot a few pieces of brass, measure the shoulders and then adjust the dies to match the chamber. I don’t understand why people get so ruffled about headspace. Consider fire forming dasher or any AI case. Basically too much headspace on the first firing and the brass forms to the chamber. You don’t hear of people having catastrophic failures forming the above?????
Just my thoughts on the matter and what has worked for me.
If I was going to use a barrel nut barrel I would take a sized piece of brass and use that as my gauge and save it for that purpose so every time I changed the barrel I could set it back to the same spot.
Pretty nice to set up a chamber where there’s no difference between virgin & fired brass. No dick dance with fire forming. New brass and fired brass all the same. This is what I like about barrel nuts.
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Yeah, usually not a problem. Actual Ackley is a hair shorter go gage. If I'm remembering correctly a parent case go gage is right at the Ackley version no go. Only time not checking headspace will bite you is if it is real long and as a reloaded, your case life will be lessened, even if just bumping fireformed cases a .001. The initial stretch will noticeably thin case wall at the web. Of course that can be remedied with a false shoulder or oal set to a jam, so shoulders blown forward.....
I've had virgin brass that was under saami and I set barrel nut to minimum....then the forster or redding die wouldn't bump shoulder back enough to chamber easy, so I had to back barrel/nut off action a bit. Go gage plus .006 doesn't phase me, I'd rather be there as a reloader then at go gage -.001(unless you want to shave some shellholders down).Pretty nice to set up a chamber where there’s no difference between virgin & fired brass. No dick dance with fire forming. New brass and fired brass all the same. This is what I like about barrel nuts.
And why I use shouldered prefits so I don't have to mess with all that stuff. Screw it on and done.
A properly cut AI chamber has a slight crush fit on the parent case. I.E. shorter headspace than the parent case.
I do it mostly the same. I usually don't check with a gauge. I will set my barrel up on my new brass and plus a little for an easy fit. If I have fired brass I will set up on peice of brass sized as much as my die can. Same boat. I make my ammo to my chamber and almost never shoot factory ammo.
I have several (currently 4) different Ackleys and most of the time the headspacing is about 0.020" shorter than the parent case. The only way to ensure properly formed Ackley brass (given that it's not a belted Ackley) without overworking it or blowing out a shoulder on the fire-forming, is to use a light load (I run about a 2/3 load), and seat the bullets where it is a light press fit with a small amount of resistance when you close the bolt. That way the base is firmly held flat against the bolt face, and the bullet is holding the front of the case in place, and then the shoulder and walls blows out and form to the chamber before the bullet starts to move.
Interesting to hear, I have a 223ai that I have had for years and it is not a tight fit with new brass. I just loaded my normal 223 loads and shot without any issues. I have a new 223ai barrel waiting for me at home so will be interesting to see if it’s a tight fit or not.
I learn something everyday. Thanks for the info.
I learn something everyday. Thanks for the info.
It all depends on how the reamer is spec'd. The thing about Ackleys is there can be 100 different reamers out there with 100 different specs, because none of them are SAAMI standardized, other then the .280 AI, when Nosler decided to standardize it about 16 years ago (2008). Which has been HUGE for increasing popularity of it, because you can buy standardized quality brass, and factory ammo for it. I don't have a bolt gun in .223, but if I did, it would definitely be an AI.
I've ever only loaded 708AI to near max charge, regular COAL, and made sure the bolt closed stiff. The contact of the longer shoulder takes care of holding the case to the bolt face. There is a lot of pressure soaked out of the initial fireforming by the shoulders being blown out, so I was told to go stout, but not max charges.
Biggest aspect most never talk about is that just because you fireform a piece of brass to AI doesn't automatically mean you can add significantly more powder. 708AI anyway, I can only get 1-1.5gr. Then again, the 708 to AI is only a 7% increase in velocity. So I am spinning my wheels a little for the minor gains. Of course, I find this out after I went the route.
Biggest aspect most never talk about is that just because you fireform a piece of brass to AI doesn't automatically mean you can add significantly more powder. 708AI anyway, I can only get 1-1.5gr. Then again, the 708 to AI is only a 7% increase in velocity. So I am spinning my wheels a little for the minor gains. Of course, I find this out after I went the route.
When I had a 243ai, fireform load was 105hybrids@3075fps. That load was normally 3120 in most other 243 rifles with same barrel specs. I think the fireforming soaks up some of the pressure. Mine also had a slight crush fit with 243 brass into ai chamber.
True but improved case geometry is a major benefit of the Ackley. I could drive 105-107 class bullets to 3320 range in my 243ai, if memory is correct. They were criterion remage barrels so they set up quick and weren't terribly expensive to smoke, lol.
like rob01 said, if you got the pre-fit from a trusted gunsmith, screw on to recommended tightness and run it. works fine with my Switchlug,
