Gunsmithing Barrelling a Savage Axis Action.

LR_Savage

Private
Minuteman
Apr 30, 2020
31
30
Northeastern Kentucky
So I've done some small projects for some guys lately and came into a spare Savage Axis action that can with a Boyds stock, but has no barrel. The action is a short action and was thinking of barreling it in .308 and just making another build out of it.

I'm thinking 20" threaded barrel and am open to suggestions on the make and price.

If you guys had this action that you had no money in and were going to barrel it, how would you guys go about it?
 
So I've done some small projects for some guys lately and came into a spare Savage Axis action that can with a Boyds stock, but has no barrel. The action is a short action and was thinking of barreling it in .308 and just making another build out of it.

I'm thinking 20" threaded barrel and am open to suggestions on the make and price.

If you guys had this action that you had no money in and were going to barrel it, how would you guys go about it?
I've got a Bunch of Savage small shank take off barrels. 22-250-243-308 and 1-6.5 Creed. I've got a couple 308 barrels that I screwed on an action and "proofed" with about 10 rds. They shoot very well. All are 22' standard profile. All are relatively cheap except for the 6.5 C as it's a hammer with about 200 rds down it. Might keep that 1. Rest are basically new. Message me if ur interested. About $60 shipped.
 
I think my plans are pretty straightforward so to speak. 20 MOA rail, larger “tacticool” bolt knob, X-Caliber 20” threaded .308 5R barrel, refinish the stock, and MAYBE cerakote it all to a finish of whatever I feel looks good at the time.

Regrettably I have to chase the threads a little bit before rebarreling the action. When the last person added a scope base rail, it came with two shorter screws that are supposed to go above the barrel shank. Well that’s not how they did it. One long screw up front, one in back. The one up front gacked the threads up a little when they removed the barrel, so have to touch that up a bit. I’ll attach a picture to show the damage, it isn’t real bad but could've been avoided with a little attention to detail. Also I apologize in advance for the photo quality.

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I was hoping to hear more of what you guys would do personally if you were in my shoes. Some interesting, oddball, Precision, or even R&D type builds if ya know what I mean
 
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My first 'budget precision' build was/is an axis in an element chassis. Spun my own barrel from a lilja 30" 8 twist 3 groove in 7mm, chambered in 7/300 wsm. Shoots 5 shots in the .3s all day out to 500yd(furthest I've shot it) and doesn't give a damn about wind with 180 hybrids.

A friend of mine shot it and has me building him a twin to in 338 rum with an xcal prefit. Waiting on the chassis and barrel before I can work up the 300gr rdfs.
 
My first 'budget precision' build was/is an axis in an element chassis. Spun my own barrel from a lilja 30" 8 twist 3 groove in 7mm, chambered in 7/300 wsm. Shoots 5 shots in the .3s all day out to 500yd(furthest I've shot it) and doesn't give a damn about wind with 180 hybrids.

A friend of mine shot it and has me building him a twin to in 338 rum with an xcal prefit. Waiting on the chassis and barrel before I can work up the 300gr rdfs.

See now that’s neat. I’d like to do a big boy caliber the likes of .338 Lapua or .338 RUM, but I don’t think the Axis Short Action would accommodate it.
 
All axis actions are long if you're not aware yet. They change the trigger guard to support short/long action mags from savage...really annoying with a 223 even loaded at 2.541oal.

Single loading the rum works fine, ejecting empty brass also a go, ejecting loaded is a no go. My 7/300 was setup as single load from day one since xlr only offers the element in short action. It will eject loaded rounds up to the 3.5, and load that length as well.

My next axis project will be a 458 win mag or 2" american. Barrels are justa bit salty right now.

Also, if you do go mag you will have to shorten the standard mag bolt head to get the proper firing pin protrusion, and clearance the bottom of the cocking ramp on the bolt body for adequate fp travel as well.
 
Been working on the stock a little more than anything, it had a weird color OD so I sprayed it with something to make it a more uniform and darker version of its former self.

After spraying it a couple coats I cleaned the recoil lug up with some steel wool and have been pondering if it’s as good as it can get or if it’s worth bedding.

Don’t be judgemental of my cluttered work space. This is where my old lady has cornered me until our new house with my basement is finished (God, how I’m waiting for that basement.)
 

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I haven't had any issue with the recoil lug in the tuperware stocks, but you could bed/glue it in and help with possible cold bore wandering.

Have you decided on a cartridge?
 
I haven't had any issue with the recoil lug in the tuperware stocks, but you could bed/glue it in and help with possible cold bore wandering.

Have you decided on a cartridge?

I’m still taking some time and kicking around ideas as this is just a spare time project. I am debating because I’m a fan of the .308 and have a lot of experience behind that cartridge, but am also leaning toward stepping into the 6.5 Creedmoor waters. I’d like to be able to see what all the fuss is about, and have a rifle my woman can sit comfortably behind when I drag her to the range.


For an Axis I'd just get an EABCO barrel...

That was an option, but most if not All of their barrels are on backorder. I ordered one from them in backorder a couple years back and while it was a good product it took forever to receive. I believe going through someone that makes the barrel as you order and ships it out 6 weeks later will get it to me faster in the end, as well as giving me the options for muzzle threads, fluting, things of that nature.