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Rifle Scopes Base and Rings

PhilB

Private
Full Member
Minuteman
Feb 21, 2011
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Midway has a million to chose from.
I want a one piece mount and low rings.
Rem700 SPS .308 with Bushnell 6500 42mm.
One piece Badger Ordinance or TPS? Steel or Aluminum? Besides weight, are there any big differences for a 100-500yd rifle?
 
Re: Base and Rings

Yep, what super tac said "You should try the search engine". That is a FAQ and is covered in numerous spots here on The Hide. There is a lot of questions to be answered in order to get the right set and these threads on here will set you on the correct track.
Paul
 
Re: Base and Rings

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: super-tac</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Nottub hcraes eht yrt dluohs uoy </div></div>
...ynnuF lol
 
Re: Base and Rings

You guys must do a good job of hiding them. I see no threads about steel versus aluminum bases and rings. Thanks anyway.
 
Re: Base and Rings

I dont think anyone is hiding anything, but heres a couple of pages I found. Let me save you the read though. Buy once, cry once! Just save the extra money and get a set of badger rings and bases, yes its worth it, and yes they are better than the cheaper stuff.

http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1563797

https://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1396312

http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1704104
 
Re: Base and Rings

BTW there isn't really a noticable difference in the weight of Aluminum parts vs Steel ( maybe two or three ounces) and even if there was, I would still get the steel. There are alot of places to save weight on a rifle, but to me the base and rings are just not one of them, if you are wanting to save the weight, just get a stock with a lighter fill and your gtg.
 
Re: Base and Rings

buy steel. its worth it. also buy rings and bases that are absolute top of the line. you can be cheap on a scope, gun, bipod... etc, but rings and a base is where you buy the best, no questions asked.
 
Re: Base and Rings

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: YN*Dotte</div><div class="ubbcode-body">BTW there isn't really a noticable difference in the weight of Aluminum parts vs Steel ( maybe two or three ounces) and even if there was, I would still get the steel. There are alot of places to save weight on a rifle, but to me the base and rings are just not one of them, if you are wanting to save the weight, just get a stock with a lighter fill and your gtg. </div></div>

YN*Dotte,

I will respectfully disagree with your conclusions. For example from Badger Ordnance for a SA Rem 700:

Steel 30mm Lows 7.3 Oz PN 306-08
Steel 20 MOA Base 4.8 Oz PN 306-06

Alloy 30mm Lows 3.9 Oz 306-16
Alloy 20 MOA Base 2.0 Oz 306-06A

Total weight Steel: 12.1 Oz
Total weight Alloy: 5.9 Oz
Difference: 6.2 Oz or 0.4 Lbs......

As far a strength goes, both use the same dinky four 6-48 screws, and how strong is your aluminum tubed rifle scope compared to alloy bases and rings?

I use Badger Alloy bases on my standard cartridge rifles. On Magnums, steel B&R's is better, not for strength, but the extra weight here, helps more than hurts.

IMHO and YMMV,

Bob
 
Re: Base and Rings

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: whitt91</div><div class="ubbcode-body">buy steel. its worth it. also buy rings and bases that are absolute top of the line. you can be cheap on a scope, gun, bipod... etc, but rings and a base is where you buy the best, no questions asked. </div></div>

Highly disagree with this statement, but everyone has an opinion.

A set of $60 TPS steel or Burris XTR rings for $200 less than Badgers will do the same exact job. However, a $400 Millet will not do the same job as a NF or a Razor for the same percentage difference in price.

Same thing with a $40 EGW base compared to a $150+ NF or Badger.
 
Re: Base and Rings

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BobinNC</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: YN*Dotte</div><div class="ubbcode-body">BTW there isn't really a noticable difference in the weight of Aluminum parts vs Steel ( maybe two or three ounces) and even if there was, I would still get the steel. There are alot of places to save weight on a rifle, but to me the base and rings are just not one of them, if you are wanting to save the weight, just get a stock with a lighter fill and your gtg. </div></div>

YN*Dotte,

I will respectfully disagree with your conclusions. For example from Badger Ordnance for a SA Rem 700:

Steel 30mm Lows 7.3 Oz PN 306-08
Steel 20 MOA Base 4.8 Oz PN 306-06

Alloy 30mm Lows 3.9 Oz 306-16
Alloy 20 MOA Base 2.0 Oz 306-06A

Total weight Steel: 12.1 Oz
Total weight Alloy: 5.9 Oz
Difference: 6.2 Oz or 0.4 Lbs......

As far a strength goes, both use the same dinky four 6-48 screws, and how strong is your aluminum tubed rifle scope compared to alloy bases and rings?

I use Badger Alloy bases on my standard cartridge rifles. On Magnums, steel B&R's is better, not for strength, but the extra weight here, helps more than hurts.

IMHO and YMMV,

Bob </div></div>


I did not mean to imply the Aluminum alloy was not at strong as the steel, I am only basing my expierience off of some TPS aluminum rings that I had once, that snapped like a dry piece of spaghetti when I went to torque them down. The Badger and Nightforce aluminum products I am sure complete different story. To me, I get piece of mind with steel, ever since I saw the ring lip snap. Also I did not realize there was that much weight saved by using aluminum parts, I suppose it is enough to base a decision off of. Especially if it is going on a hunting rifle.
 
Re: Base and Rings

Since YN took a bit of a beating on here about the comments above, I don't mean to jump in on the whipping, but here's an attempt to explain my reasoning from an engineer's perspective with the AL vs. Steel discussion.

The experience based on TPS rings is not uncommon to hear about here, I've seen it come back up a number of times in the past 2 years on the 'Hide. They had some serious problems with their Aluminum alloy rings.

Other ring manufacturers that have demonstrated a good product are mentioned above and also in my post further along...

I don't mean this to be a "you're an idiot" post, I'm trying to explain my reasoning and mean it as an explanation to many people, please don't take it as me picking on you directly. If you disagree or have more questions, please ask and I'll try to answer them, either here or via PM.


1) Al vs. Steel is hardly descriptive. Which AL alloy with which coating (or is it in the raw) and which steel alloy are you talking about?

2) I know of a very good set of rings that weighs 4 ounces in aluminum form. In steel, that exact same shape weighs about 10.5 ounces. So 2-3 ounces is really more like 8 ounces... yet the AL happens to be stronger and have higher surface contact stress capability than the average steel ring on the market.

Additionally, even if you had a 10 ounce set of steel rings and you added material to them so the Aluminum set weighed 7-8 ounces that's still a 20%-30% reduction in weight.

Take everything on the rifle and reduce it by 20-30% and the 17lb monster that is the M40A5 became a 13lb gun instead. THAT is a big difference. That's another 1/2 gal of water or a bunch more ammo that the Marine can ruck for an otherwise identical load out.

So let's go back to addressing point #1:

Aluminum and steel are both alloys in their generally consumed forms. You CAN get pure AL, but it's very soft and not particularly strong. When it's alloyed and solution hardened it becomes the "wonder material" without which the aerospace industry could not exist.

So let's compare the example of rings that I mentioned above: They're made by American Rifle Co. and it's 7075-T65 with a Mil-T spec thick, hard anodized finish. ARC is not the only company to make parts from this material, it just happens to be pertinent because I know what the 30mm low rings weigh off the top of my head as I just got a set. (<4 oz)

I know of no steel rings that are actually hardened, even if the ring is made from something like 4340.

Here's the yield allowables in 4340 soft state in steel vs. the Aluminum spec'd above (www.matweb.com)

4340 = 68.2 ksi Yield
4340 = 0.284 lb/cu-in

7075-T65 = 68.9 ksi Yield
7075-T65 = 0.102 lb/cu-in

The hard anno coating on the AL gives it a surface contact stress in excess of 160ksi, and a localized yield of 90+ ksi.

The Aluminum is stronger, lighter, and with the coating more corrosion resistant.

Slam dunk IMO against running a regular steel ring.

If you took the steel and hardened it the cost of manufacturing just went WAY up. If you cust the steel in a "hard" state then the tooling and time became expensive, if it's cut soft then hardened everything is suspect because of the heat treat process and now needs to either be trued up (think Remington, there receivers are cut soft and then hardened, we all know how straight they are) or the end user will be paying for the rings to be trued.
 
Re: Base and Rings

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: bohem</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Since YN took a bit of a beating on here about the comments above, I don't mean to jump in on the whipping, but here's an attempt to explain my reasoning from an engineer's perspective with the AL vs. Steel discussion.

The experience based on TPS rings is not uncommon to hear about here, I've seen it come back up a number of times in the past 2 years on the 'Hide. They had some serious problems with their Aluminum alloy rings.

Other ring manufacturers that have demonstrated a good product are mentioned above and also in my post further along...

I don't mean this to be a "you're an idiot" post, I'm trying to explain my reasoning and mean it as an explanation to many people, please don't take it as me picking on you directly. If you disagree or have more questions, please ask and I'll try to answer them, either here or via PM.


1) Al vs. Steel is hardly descriptive. Which AL alloy with which coating (or is it in the raw) and which steel alloy are you talking about?

2) I know of a very good set of rings that weighs 4 ounces in aluminum form. In steel, that exact same shape weighs about 10.5 ounces. So 2-3 ounces is really more like 8 ounces... yet the AL happens to be stronger and have higher surface contact stress capability than the average steel ring on the market.

Additionally, even if you had a 10 ounce set of steel rings and you added material to them so the Aluminum set weighed 7-8 ounces that's still a 20%-30% reduction in weight.

Take everything on the rifle and reduce it by 20-30% and the 17lb monster that is the M40A5 became a 13lb gun instead. THAT is a big difference. That's another 1/2 gal of water or a bunch more ammo that the Marine can ruck for an otherwise identical load out.

So let's go back to addressing point #1:

Aluminum and steel are both alloys in their generally consumed forms. You CAN get pure AL, but it's very soft and not particularly strong. When it's alloyed and solution hardened it becomes the "wonder material" without which the aerospace industry could not exist.

So let's compare the example of rings that I mentioned above: They're made by American Rifle Co. and it's 7075-T65 with a Mil-T spec thick, hard anodized finish. ARC is not the only company to make parts from this material, it just happens to be pertinent because I know what the 30mm low rings weigh off the top of my head as I just got a set. (<4 oz)

I know of no steel rings that are actually hardened, even if the ring is made from something like 4340.

Here's the yield allowables in 4340 soft state in steel vs. the Aluminum spec'd above (www.matweb.com)

4340 = 68.2 ksi Yield
4340 = 0.284 lb/cu-in

7075-T65 = 68.9 ksi Yield
7075-T65 = 0.102 lb/cu-in

The hard anno coating on the AL gives it a surface contact stress in excess of 160ksi, and a localized yield of 90+ ksi.

The Aluminum is stronger, lighter, and with the coating more corrosion resistant.

Slam dunk IMO against running a regular steel ring.

If you took the steel and hardened it the cost of manufacturing just went WAY up. If you cust the steel in a "hard" state then the tooling and time became expensive, if it's cut soft then hardened everything is suspect because of the heat treat process and now needs to either be trued up (think Remington, there receivers are cut soft and then hardened, we all know how straight they are) or the end user will be paying for the rings to be trued. </div></div>



With what you have said and others also, compare Badger to EGW.


Badger has a 20 moa STEEL 1 piece mount
EGW has a 20moa AL 1 piece mount.

Badger is around $140
EGW is around $120

If aluminum is stronger and more reliable, and in this case cheaper, why not go with EGW instead?


Not to mention Badger rings $150

Burris XTR Extreme rings $40.


Is this just another case of "buying a name brand, pay more, but same quality of lesser priced brands"







 
Re: Base and Rings

EGW's steel mount runs $120. Their aluminium HD mounts only cost about $60. I can't speak with much authority on the matter, but a lot of folks on this forum believe they are a good value.
 
Re: Base and Rings

My only problem is that if I can spend 100 bucks give or take a few dollar and have a rail/rings that no one can say anything bad about and give actual hands on bad experiences with, OR, spend 300 bucks on a top of the line per say rail/rings that people own but have never owned the other in argument, i dont see a reason to not go with something cheaper like EGW, etc.
 
Re: Base and Rings

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: jonaddis84</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: whitt91</div><div class="ubbcode-body">buy steel. its worth it. also buy rings and bases that are absolute top of the line. you can be cheap on a scope, gun, bipod... etc, but rings and a base is where you buy the best, no questions asked. </div></div>

Highly disagree with this statement, but everyone has an opinion.

A set of $60 TPS steel or Burris XTR rings for $200 less than Badgers will do the same exact job. However, a $400 Millet will not do the same job as a NF or a Razor for the same percentage difference in price.

Same thing with a $40 EGW base compared to a $150+ NF or Badger. </div></div>

I agree with you and over exaggerated in my first comment when i talked about buying the absolute best. my point in the previous response is that a good quality base and rings are crucial to the accuracy of the rifle, and that the buyer should not be hesitant to spend the money on which ever product he feels will perform best for him. if he believes that TPS (which i currently use on my rifle) will work just as well as seekins or badger, then buy the tps.
 
Re: Base and Rings

Thanks for all the info. My head hurts a little but that's normal.

Aluminum Seekins base/rings or Badger Ordinance steel base/rings. Other than weight, is there likely to be any measurable performance difference for a guy shooting an out of the box Rem700 SPS .308 100-500yds? At what point does one over think this?
 
Re: Base and Rings

Go steel all the way 20 degree Badger One piece base Mark 4 or Badger rings aluminum is for girls or 22's if you can't pack your gun with steel rings or bases you should not be shooting.
 
Re: Base and Rings

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: bohem</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I know of no steel rings that are actually hardened, even if the ring is made from something like 4340.

Here's the yield allowables in 4340 soft state in steel vs. the Aluminum spec'd above (www.matweb.com)

4340 = 68.2 ksi Yield
4340 = 0.284 lb/cu-in

7075-T65 = 68.9 ksi Yield
7075-T65 = 0.102 lb/cu-in

The hard anno coating on the AL gives it a surface contact stress in excess of 160ksi, and a localized yield of 90+ ksi.

The Aluminum is stronger, lighter, and with the coating more corrosion resistant.</div></div>
One note here in defense of steel. While I can't speak for any particular ring or base manufacturer, if one goes to the trouble of using 4340 it would surprise me for them to use the annealed state. It would be quite a waste.

Typically you'd at least use it in the normalized state, where tension ultimate is 125 KSI and yield is around 100 KSI, depending upon exact size and form. This is a good shot stronger than any aluminum alloy ultimately. In fatigue life there's no comparison. And it's about three times as stiff with similar geometry.

Don't get me wrong, I like and use aluminum in this application as well. But steel does have its merits.
 
Re: Base and Rings

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Jon A</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: bohem</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I know of no steel rings that are actually hardened, even if the ring is made from something like 4340.

Here's the yield allowables in 4340 soft state in steel vs. the Aluminum spec'd above (www.matweb.com)

4340 = 68.2 ksi Yield
4340 = 0.284 lb/cu-in

7075-T65 = 68.9 ksi Yield
7075-T65 = 0.102 lb/cu-in

The hard anno coating on the AL gives it a surface contact stress in excess of 160ksi, and a localized yield of 90+ ksi.

The Aluminum is stronger, lighter, and with the coating more corrosion resistant.</div></div>
One note here in defense of steel. While I can't speak for any particular ring or base manufacturer, if one goes to the trouble of using 4340 it would surprise me for them to use the annealed state. It would be quite a waste.

Typically you'd at least use it in the normalized state, where tension ultimate is 125 KSI and yield is around 100 KSI, depending upon exact size and form. This is a good shot stronger than any aluminum alloy ultimately. In fatigue life there's no comparison. And it's about three times as stiff with similar geometry.

Don't get me wrong, I like and use aluminum in this application as well. But steel does have its merits. </div></div>

How legit is the comparison of Ftu instead of using Fty? My take is that using ultimate will tell me if the ring will break off and fail, but yield failure is going to give me a limit of repeatability.

Agreed, annealed 4340 is a waste of material use, normalized is much better. I've yet to find a set of normalized 4340 rings though, almost everything I see is either mild or 1000 series, neither of those stand up to hard ann'd 7075-T65
 
Re: Base and Rings

I ordered Badger steel base and rings. My head stopped hurting but now my wallet is getting lightheaded....
 
Re: Base and Rings

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: PhilB</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I ordered Badger steel base and rings. My head stopped hurting but now my wallet is getting lightheaded.... </div></div>

Good decision, your mind will be at ease once you have them mounted on your rifle, using Badger products is like setting your scope in cement lol torque them down properly and you wont have a worry.
 
Re: Base and Rings

Badger instructions say to use Red231 loctite between the mount/receiver and on mount screws. Yikes! I guess this is a once and done forever thing... How much loctite between the mount and receiver... a huge smear to cover the entire mount surface or a line around the edges of base... or?
 
Re: Base and Rings

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: PhilB</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Badger instructions say to use Red231 loctite between the mount/receiver and on mount screws. Yikes! I guess this is a once and done forever thing... How much loctite between the mount and receiver... a huge smear to cover the entire mount surface or a line around the edges of base... or? </div></div>

I don't use much. Just a little bit, but thats just me. It's not a "forever" thing. It can be broken loose with a smaal amount of effort.

Just a little security..
wink.gif
 
Re: Base and Rings

If you are strapped for cash... snag a 20 MOA EGW base and Burris XTREME rings.
your gonna be about $100-$110 for the total. I cant afford $250 or so for the total, so this is what i did. Its a great combo. Look on midway or SWFA for the set.

Goodluck with everything
 
Re: Base and Rings

The weak link in a rifle scope system isn’t going to be the aluminum rings and base, it’s going to be the scopes aluminum scope tube. Aluminum rings if they are well made will work the same as steel rings and they weigh less and are cheaper. You would be better of getting a stiffer stock or a heavier barrel with the ¼ to ½ pound in weight you are saving, the extra strength is in your mind. Steel rings are way more likely to cut into your scope if they aren’t on tight enough. I had friend who shaved an inch long strip of aluminum of an NSX scope because he was afraid to tighten up his steel rings enough. That taught him good.
 
Re: Base and Rings

While I like some tactical rings, for 90% of the applications out there I think the Burris Signature Zee rings are great and one of the best options I've used. It's also the one I will use in the future.
 
Re: Base and Rings

I used 1 piece Burris with steel rings . Don't think anything cuold be any stronger. Had to use mid height rings , (.770) my Redfiled 4x12- 40 almost touched barrel . Could not get flip up covers to mount with low (.650) mounts .
 
Re: Base and Rings

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: bohem</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Jon A</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: bohem</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I know of no steel rings that are actually hardened, even if the ring is made from something like 4340.

Here's the yield allowables in 4340 soft state in steel vs. the Aluminum spec'd above (www.matweb.com)

4340 = 68.2 ksi Yield
4340 = 0.284 lb/cu-in

7075-T65 = 68.9 ksi Yield
7075-T65 = 0.102 lb/cu-in

The hard anno coating on the AL gives it a surface contact stress in excess of 160ksi, and a localized yield of 90+ ksi.

The Aluminum is stronger, lighter, and with the coating more corrosion resistant.</div></div>
One note here in defense of steel. While I can't speak for any particular ring or base manufacturer, if one goes to the trouble of using 4340 it would surprise me for them to use the annealed state. It would be quite a waste.

Typically you'd at least use it in the normalized state, where tension ultimate is 125 KSI and yield is around 100 KSI, depending upon exact size and form. This is a good shot stronger than any aluminum alloy ultimately. In fatigue life there's no comparison. And it's about three times as stiff with similar geometry.

Don't get me wrong, I like and use aluminum in this application as well. But steel does have its merits. </div></div>

How legit is the comparison of Ftu instead of using Fty? My take is that using ultimate will tell me if the ring will break off and fail, but yield failure is going to give me a limit of repeatability.

Agreed, annealed 4340 is a waste of material use, normalized is much better. I've yet to find a set of normalized 4340 rings though, almost everything I see is either mild or 1000 series, neither of those stand up to hard ann'd 7075-T65



</div></div>


Bohem,

While on the subject, what about the fasteners (screws/bolts/nuts) used for mounting?

If aluminum provides a superior system for bases and rings, would you prefer to use aluminum fasteners as well?

Or if not, why?
 
Re: Base and Rings

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: bohem</div><div class="ubbcode-body">How legit is the comparison of Ftu instead of using Fty? </div></div>
Yield is good to look at (not just tension, but shear, etc, depending upon detail) because if a blow causes anything to yield in the mounting system at the very least you can expect the rifle to have lost its zero which would qualify as a failure of the mounting system in my mind.

Maybe I should have used different words above to avoid confusion--stronger "ultimately" vs. in fatigue. Ultimate <span style="font-style: italic">loads</span>--not to be confused with ultimate <span style="font-style: italic">allowables</span>.
wink.gif
 
Re: Base and Rings

Thanks for all the help guys. Shot the rifle for the first time the other day... 100yds all seems to be working well.



Uploaded with ImageShack.us
 
Re: Base and Rings

For EGW what we decided on for the steel rails was 4140, heat treat the blanks to 32-35 rc, than machine in that condition. They stay strait typically .001 to .002 over the length on a surface plate. Mil spec Parkerize finish is not as corrosion resistant as Hard coat but far better than matt finish blue which is useless in the field. The steel Rails are 119.99 The HD are 69.99 for 7075 T6 hard coat.

Pass on the Alum fasteners.

geo

www.egwguns.com