Re: Bedding a rifle
i told him to read it again. and dont get all butt hurt, this isnt the place for it. i personally showed photos of a skim bed and the first post of the 11 pages is a full pillar bed job. its just easier to ask in that thread. i read it over and over and all the questions were answered. i have bedded mine and cleared up stuff for other people that were confused. and no one is being a smart ass, just realize this. you say you read a whole thread. yet you still ask what a pillar is after the first post in that thread is a pillar bedding job start to finish?
and you can type pillar bedding and skim bedding into yahoo or google as well for a description or each
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: wnroscoe</div><div class="ubbcode-body">In previous threads I've shown the breech and muzzle end of a barrel I was working on chambering and receiver blue printing. It was meeting with such a positive response and at the request of several members for more, I thought I would take you through the next step of my process. <span style="text-decoration: underline"><span style="font-weight: bold">Pillar bedding a rifle stock</span></span>. The pictures below cover my prep work leading up to pillar bedding and the final product. As with anything, prep is the absolute key to a successful job.
The first thing I do is prep the stock in the mill by opening up the recoil lug area and milling out the guard screw holes for pillars. I also rough it up a bit with a dermal tool for added tooth and mechanical lock of the bedding. This prep can also be done with a dermal and a drill but, you must be very careful as to not let the pillar holes wonder off or lean to the side. If using a dermal take your time and make it right. This picture shows the prep work.
After stock prep is completed I use masking tape on the barrel at two points to hold the barreled receiver in place in a stress free position. This is probably the most important step in the process and the most over looked. Tape is added until the fit is exactly as I want it. I check the fit at the ejection port (must be level) and rear tang, if all looks good, I run with it. I currently have a stock here that was bedded by a very well known smith. There is so much stress in the bedding job that when the rear guard screw is tightened, the bolt binds up. We removed the barrel just for grins, same result. The picture shows a very easy way for the DIY guy to achieve a stress free bedding job, every time, without fail.
I make all my own pillars for each rifle after initial fitting is performed but there is a company that manufactures adjustable pillars if your not able to make your own. I believe these pillars are available through Sinclair Intl. In my lathe, I dial in a piece of .500" Aluminum bar stock and drill a .250" hole in the center and cut bedding grooves in the body of the pillar with an insert tool. I cut them long enough that they stick out of the stock. I also screw the pillars to the receiver tight and bed all in one step. This is where most make the mistake as they try to screw the trigger guard together while the bedding is wet, this is when stress is induced into the bedding job. This is what happened with the stock I have here for repair. This picture shows the pillars screwed to the receiver, cut long so final finishing can be performed in the Mill.
This is just the first step in my bedding jobs. To date, they've all been good with no issues. I bed all my BR, Tactical and Hunting Rifles this way.
The following pics show the tape prep to the receiver and stock. With exception of the tape on the lug, the extra tape is purely for ease of clean up. They also show the release agent I use although Johnson’s past floor wax and neutral kiwi shoe polish is just as good.
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