I have bedded rifles into stocks before but now iam finally putting badger m-5 bottom metal into my mcmillian, yes it has been pre-inleted by mcmillian, the fit right now is alittle lose so i imagine i put the bedding compound around the sides of the "slot" were the m-5 slips in. Question do i want to hit the m-5 with acra release so i can get it back out? and im sure i have to bed the pillars aswell insert compound into hole along with pillars and let harden right? doing it that way i worry about the the screws lining up with the reciever properly if it is off center by a little bit? Finally should i do this in 2 steps bed bottom metal then the rifle? or all at once any one with some insight or experince with this i would appreciate your input thanks.
Gunsmithing "bedding" bottom metal?
- Thread starter jeep505090
- Start date
Re: "bedding" bottom metal?
I have bed the bottom metal on allot of Mausers.
The 3/8" tube that is the rear pillar locates the bottom metal in the rear.
If there is a 5/8" tube in the front for a pillar, then that locates the bottom metal in the front, but there is usually no front pillar. There is more often some epoxy between the stock and the bottom around the front screw area.
The purpose of the bedding under the bottom metal is not so much accuracy related, but just to protect the stock and establish the fit and finish feel and flush appearance of the bottom metal to stock fit.
I have bed the bottom metal on allot of Mausers.
The 3/8" tube that is the rear pillar locates the bottom metal in the rear.
If there is a 5/8" tube in the front for a pillar, then that locates the bottom metal in the front, but there is usually no front pillar. There is more often some epoxy between the stock and the bottom around the front screw area.
The purpose of the bedding under the bottom metal is not so much accuracy related, but just to protect the stock and establish the fit and finish feel and flush appearance of the bottom metal to stock fit.
Re: "bedding" bottom metal?
I personally feel that bedding bottom metal is critical. Even with a bedding block stock, I'll ream out the bolt holes to accomodate pillars; I put in a .050" shim between the action and the stock and bed the action and the pillars with your choice of glass, although lately I've been using glass impregnated layers of carbon fiber between the action and the stock. Let it set up over night, remove the action and screws, flip the stock over, and level the pillars in a milling machine so the bottom metal sits flat on the pillars. You'll know it's flat when you put the action in the stock, the bottom metal in place, and insert the front screw. The rear of the bottom metal should not tip up when you torque the front down. Now loosen the front and repeat for the rear. When it's flat, coat the bottom steel well with release agent, apply glass, and set it in place; clean up the excess glass and torque the action screws to spec and let it set up. Remove the screws, the bottom steel will pop out easily and clean up.
This method gives solid metal pillars from bottom steel to action; the stock only acts as a carrier. This method makes the action less susceptible to zero shift and torque requirements. Aluminium, steel, or titanium pillars don't move; glass can get soft with heat or age. On repeaters, be sure the floorplate is seated as close to the stock as possible while still having clearance to open.
Ain't this fun?
I personally feel that bedding bottom metal is critical. Even with a bedding block stock, I'll ream out the bolt holes to accomodate pillars; I put in a .050" shim between the action and the stock and bed the action and the pillars with your choice of glass, although lately I've been using glass impregnated layers of carbon fiber between the action and the stock. Let it set up over night, remove the action and screws, flip the stock over, and level the pillars in a milling machine so the bottom metal sits flat on the pillars. You'll know it's flat when you put the action in the stock, the bottom metal in place, and insert the front screw. The rear of the bottom metal should not tip up when you torque the front down. Now loosen the front and repeat for the rear. When it's flat, coat the bottom steel well with release agent, apply glass, and set it in place; clean up the excess glass and torque the action screws to spec and let it set up. Remove the screws, the bottom steel will pop out easily and clean up.
This method gives solid metal pillars from bottom steel to action; the stock only acts as a carrier. This method makes the action less susceptible to zero shift and torque requirements. Aluminium, steel, or titanium pillars don't move; glass can get soft with heat or age. On repeaters, be sure the floorplate is seated as close to the stock as possible while still having clearance to open.
Ain't this fun?
Re: "bedding" bottom metal?
Bed the pillars with the action. Do the bottom later in 2nd step. If you have access to a milling machine do as above poster said.
Mill them flat after the set up. Yes apply acra-release or substitute on whatever you do not want to take up permanent
residence in that stock
Bed the pillars with the action. Do the bottom later in 2nd step. If you have access to a milling machine do as above poster said.
Mill them flat after the set up. Yes apply acra-release or substitute on whatever you do not want to take up permanent
residence in that stock
Re: "bedding" bottom metal?
thanks all i appreciate the insight to this, its gonna be a good learning experince hopefully i dont screw it up!!
thanks all i appreciate the insight to this, its gonna be a good learning experince hopefully i dont screw it up!!
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