I may be wrong, but I think I have heard folks say to leave the recoil contacting the bedding compound in the mortise. Is this right?
Gunsmithing Bedding Mod 70
- Thread starter nashlaw
- Start date
Re: Bedding Mod 70
I put 2 pieces of tape on the front of the lug and bottom of the barrel before waxing it up.
I know some that put tape on the botom of the lug as well. just incase a shaving of bedding would get pushed to the botom of the lug area upon assembly.
Full sides and rear of lug are mandatory contact.
I put 2 pieces of tape on the front of the lug and bottom of the barrel before waxing it up.
I know some that put tape on the botom of the lug as well. just incase a shaving of bedding would get pushed to the botom of the lug area upon assembly.
Full sides and rear of lug are mandatory contact.
Re: Bedding Mod 70
I've done many bedding jobs on firearms and use the brownell's mold release. I clean the metal on the gun with a solvent first entirely, then liberally spray the mold release onto the metal.
I use marinetex for my bedding jobs, and have entire contact from the rear metal on the reciever up until about 1.75-3" past the lug. As a rule of thumb i like to "support" the barrel where the bullet is seated when it's in the barrel. So in a .308 Winchester I generally go about 2" or so past the lug.
I've never had an issue with any bedding jobs not coming out just right.
I've done many bedding jobs on firearms and use the brownell's mold release. I clean the metal on the gun with a solvent first entirely, then liberally spray the mold release onto the metal.
I use marinetex for my bedding jobs, and have entire contact from the rear metal on the reciever up until about 1.75-3" past the lug. As a rule of thumb i like to "support" the barrel where the bullet is seated when it's in the barrel. So in a .308 Winchester I generally go about 2" or so past the lug.
I've never had an issue with any bedding jobs not coming out just right.
