Gunsmithing Bedding Tutorial by Richard Franklin - 6mmbr.com
- Thread starter Wheres-Waldo
- Start date
Re: Bedding Tutorial by Richard Franklin - 6mmbr.com
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Wheres-Waldo</div><div class="ubbcode-body">An excellent tutorial I thought.
LINK </div></div>Got my CD today, Just finished watching the whole thing. Best $24.00 I ever spent! Gotta love his
eskucheron..."
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Wheres-Waldo</div><div class="ubbcode-body">An excellent tutorial I thought.
LINK </div></div>Got my CD today, Just finished watching the whole thing. Best $24.00 I ever spent! Gotta love his
eskucheron..."
Re: Bedding Tutorial by Richard Franklin - 6mmbr.com
+1 thats where I got the idea of using Kiwi neutral shoe polish as a release agent, and it works great! goes on thinner than anything els out there, and releases the action without much trouble.
+1 thats where I got the idea of using Kiwi neutral shoe polish as a release agent, and it works great! goes on thinner than anything els out there, and releases the action without much trouble.
Re: Bedding Tutorial by Richard Franklin - 6mmbr.com
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: USMCj</div><div class="ubbcode-body">+1 thats where I got the idea of using Kiwi neutral shoe polish as a release agent, and it works great! goes on thinner than anything els out there, and releases the action without much trouble. </div></div>
Brownells release agent in a spray can, I think it is alot thinner than Kiwi (maybe my use was not propper). Not near as cheap since its like $20 a can. I have a buddy that does aircraft parts. He ahs some cans of shit that is really thin and nothing will stick to it. I think he said it was like $60 a can. His workers use it on the forms so the carbon fiber crap doesnt stick.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: USMCj</div><div class="ubbcode-body">+1 thats where I got the idea of using Kiwi neutral shoe polish as a release agent, and it works great! goes on thinner than anything els out there, and releases the action without much trouble. </div></div>
Brownells release agent in a spray can, I think it is alot thinner than Kiwi (maybe my use was not propper). Not near as cheap since its like $20 a can. I have a buddy that does aircraft parts. He ahs some cans of shit that is really thin and nothing will stick to it. I think he said it was like $60 a can. His workers use it on the forms so the carbon fiber crap doesnt stick.
Re: Bedding Tutorial by Richard Franklin - 6mmbr.com
The brownells spray can stuff is not thinner, you may think it is, but its not. The Kiwi is used by applying it to the whole action, then using a paper towel to buff all off, leaving no hint of the wax behind. So in other words, the bedding compound sets closer to the contour of the action than using something els that just sits between the action and the bedding compound while its curing.
Not even sure if that makes sense, its kinda past my bedtime
The brownells spray can stuff is not thinner, you may think it is, but its not. The Kiwi is used by applying it to the whole action, then using a paper towel to buff all off, leaving no hint of the wax behind. So in other words, the bedding compound sets closer to the contour of the action than using something els that just sits between the action and the bedding compound while its curing.
Not even sure if that makes sense, its kinda past my bedtime
Re: Bedding Tutorial by Richard Franklin - 6mmbr.com
LOL its noon here I adjusted my use of the Kiwi was a little diff. I will have to try it again.
LOL its noon here I adjusted my use of the Kiwi was a little diff. I will have to try it again.
Re: Bedding Tutorial by Richard Franklin - 6mmbr.com
I like Wagner for pillar bedding Mausers:
http://www272.pair.com/stevewag/turk/turkbed1.html
http://www272.pair.com/stevewag/turk/turkbed2.html
http://www272.pair.com/stevewag/turk/turkbed3.html
I like Russ Hayden for pillar bedding Rem700s:
http://www.shooters-supply.com/rifle_bedding.html
*I learned from Wagner to wrap the screws in tape in order to center the screws in the pillars.
*I learned from Wagner to score the pillars so that the epoxy would get a better grip.
*It took me a while to figure out that I wanted to score action screw holes in the stock with 7/16-14 tap, after drilling with 13/32".
*It took me a while to figure out that I like Devcon Steel Putty, so I don't have to fight time or gravity.
*It took me a while to figure out that I wanted to make reduced head screws (< 13/32")dedicated for fixturing, so I could pre compress and locate the pillars.
*It took me a while to figure out not to use brass or stainless 3/8" O.D. tubing as pillars, but to use Chrome Moly 3/8" O.D. tubing for pillars. The brass makes dissimilar metals and the stainless is hard to machine on the lathe. You might think Aluminum pillars with ~1/3 the Young's modulus of steel, but ~1/3 the density could be made stiff enough, but it has dissimilar metal problems too.
*It took me a while to figure out that I wanted to wrap the barrel with tape with just the right number of turns to locate that end of the barreled action.
*It took a while for me to figure out that I should assemble the barreled action with the pillars and jack some dummy rounds through it, to make sure I have the correct mate between magazine and receiver.
*It took me a while to learn that rifles with the first inch of the barrel supported with bedding shoot better than those with more or less.
*It took a while to figure out that a good bedding job will have sustain on pure fundamental note it makes when the barrel is struck with a soft object while the rifle is supported at the wrist. If it does not make that sound, chisel out some epoxy and start over. A buzzing sound means interference. A short tone means interference and/or high compliance.
Someone on the internet is talking about synthetic pillars, getting the material from McMaster-Carr. It is stronger than steel. I did a calculation on cost to weight saved, and it was way over the $10/ ounce that I nominally pay for rifle weight improvements.
I like Wagner for pillar bedding Mausers:
http://www272.pair.com/stevewag/turk/turkbed1.html
http://www272.pair.com/stevewag/turk/turkbed2.html
http://www272.pair.com/stevewag/turk/turkbed3.html
I like Russ Hayden for pillar bedding Rem700s:
http://www.shooters-supply.com/rifle_bedding.html
*I learned from Wagner to wrap the screws in tape in order to center the screws in the pillars.
*I learned from Wagner to score the pillars so that the epoxy would get a better grip.
*It took me a while to figure out that I wanted to score action screw holes in the stock with 7/16-14 tap, after drilling with 13/32".
*It took me a while to figure out that I like Devcon Steel Putty, so I don't have to fight time or gravity.
*It took me a while to figure out that I wanted to make reduced head screws (< 13/32")dedicated for fixturing, so I could pre compress and locate the pillars.
*It took me a while to figure out not to use brass or stainless 3/8" O.D. tubing as pillars, but to use Chrome Moly 3/8" O.D. tubing for pillars. The brass makes dissimilar metals and the stainless is hard to machine on the lathe. You might think Aluminum pillars with ~1/3 the Young's modulus of steel, but ~1/3 the density could be made stiff enough, but it has dissimilar metal problems too.
*It took me a while to figure out that I wanted to wrap the barrel with tape with just the right number of turns to locate that end of the barreled action.
*It took a while for me to figure out that I should assemble the barreled action with the pillars and jack some dummy rounds through it, to make sure I have the correct mate between magazine and receiver.
*It took me a while to learn that rifles with the first inch of the barrel supported with bedding shoot better than those with more or less.
*It took a while to figure out that a good bedding job will have sustain on pure fundamental note it makes when the barrel is struck with a soft object while the rifle is supported at the wrist. If it does not make that sound, chisel out some epoxy and start over. A buzzing sound means interference. A short tone means interference and/or high compliance.
Someone on the internet is talking about synthetic pillars, getting the material from McMaster-Carr. It is stronger than steel. I did a calculation on cost to weight saved, and it was way over the $10/ ounce that I nominally pay for rifle weight improvements.
Re: Bedding Tutorial by Richard Franklin - 6mmbr.com
Devcon steel is great stuff just watch out, it can rust!
Devcon steel is great stuff just watch out, it can rust!
