- Thread starter wmn2
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It would help to know more about your current level of skills, and your goals, and budget for folks to be able to help answer that question.
The 10T series are pretty nice. I opted for the DSG's Varmint/Tactical myself. I honestly feel that Savage is the best value out there, and is the only rifles I own now. Just get your hands on several of them, and see what feels the best to you. The factory Tupperware stocks are less than satisfactory in my opinion. A stock change out, trigger spring change out, good optics, and you will be good to go.
DK
DK
I've been told in the introduction forum that good glass can be more important sometimes. I've been looking at te vortex viper pst 4x16 MOA reticle. I'm on a pretty right budget so I'm thinking around 7-800 for the scope, 100 for good rings and then around 600 for a rifle. I live in Michigan and there's a range near me and I also have property in Ohio to shoot at. Both of which I could have 1000 yard shots. I may use it for long range groundhogs as well and my 22-250 for shorter ranges. I spent 6 years in the Marine Corps infantry, so I'm pretty proficient with a rifle all the way out to 500 meters, but the challenge of 1000 or more has drawn me in. Also, my dad has a reloading press and I can buy dies to try out my own loads. I've heard the 1:10 twist that this savage has and the 24 inch barrel should be pretty good to start with. My 22-250 is a savage 110 and I like it.
[MENTION=2706]z71rat[/MENTION] - thats a nice looking rifle ! I like savages as well - I heard some bad things about their .338 but other than that, most seem to like them. I don't have any larger calibers (only .22) in a savage so I can really comment on the choice of the Savage.
[MENTION=101400]wmn2[/MENTION] - I think your on the right track - good glass - decent factory rifle - shoot it a bunch and see how it works before you start changing things. Then just change what seems to be causing problems. If you can shoot other peoples rifles as well, that can help judge what may work better on yours. The problem is once you start shooting some one elses high end rifle, you start lusting after things like AI's, DTA's and GAP's....
[MENTION=101400]wmn2[/MENTION] - I think your on the right track - good glass - decent factory rifle - shoot it a bunch and see how it works before you start changing things. Then just change what seems to be causing problems. If you can shoot other peoples rifles as well, that can help judge what may work better on yours. The problem is once you start shooting some one elses high end rifle, you start lusting after things like AI's, DTA's and GAP's....
Yea I've been lusting for a GAP for a long time, but funds won't allow that. I like savages and I've looked into the remington sps tactical, but not sure I want a 20" or shorter barrel. I won't be looking into a suppressor for a while so I don't really need a threaded barrel.
Here is the advice I got when I joined
Rem 700 in 308, buy the cheapest one you can find because the stock will be replaced
20moa one piece scope base
Harris 6-9 swivel with notched legs
Pod-Lock for the Harris
TAB or TIS sling
TAB rear bag
Databook, there are some free ones out there, Impact or Storm make really nice ones ready to go
MilDot Master
10x Super Sniper, Mildot reticle and .1mrad knobs, don't go higher in magnification at this point, the 10X SS flat out works and can be used out to 1k.
Low rings.
36inch Dewey cleaning rod
Don't buy a Savage, in the long run a Rem700 is cheaper and easier to modify and build on.
Rem 700 in 308, buy the cheapest one you can find because the stock will be replaced
20moa one piece scope base
Harris 6-9 swivel with notched legs
Pod-Lock for the Harris
TAB or TIS sling
TAB rear bag
Databook, there are some free ones out there, Impact or Storm make really nice ones ready to go
MilDot Master
10x Super Sniper, Mildot reticle and .1mrad knobs, don't go higher in magnification at this point, the 10X SS flat out works and can be used out to 1k.
Low rings.
36inch Dewey cleaning rod
Don't buy a Savage, in the long run a Rem700 is cheaper and easier to modify and build on.
^^^^^++++
I would go with a Remington SPS Varmint with 24" or 26" Heavy Barrel to start with. Savages are nice but you can't beat the aftermarket support of the Rmington especially if you're looking into upgrading and customizing in the future. Remington is probably the best starter platform for begginers just due to the sheer fact of the endless possibliites.
Savage might put out a nice product, but going with the Remington 700 series you will have access to more aftermarket accessories. A couple of years ago I was at the same point. I had spent quite a bit of time reading the forums, by doing that I new that I wanted the 6.5 Creedmoor cartridge. Since I have shot the 700 in different calibers, it seemed like a good starting point. Not to mention the array of bolt on to improve its accuracy.
I agree with 427Cobra. Except I'd get a .243 instead of .308. Easier to shoot, cheaper to load.
get a quality 20 MOA base also, since you likely won't ever change that out later on...
actually what I have as my Elk rifle is a cheap Rem700 Varmint in 308 cut down to 20" and threaded, with a good base and rings and a spare IOR valdada scope I had laying around.
Rifle cost around $350 at Dick's Sporthing goods on Black Friday a couple of years ago. 20 MOA base was like $100, scope was a trade for a pistol (which I shouldn't have done). Smith work on the barrel (cut and thread) was like $100.
I am using the flimsy stock on it, and eventually will swap it out. So far as an Elk gun it works great. I really like the shorter length, and shoots fine.
The reason I went with the REM700 was exactly as mentioned above, as the configuration options are really large.
actually what I have as my Elk rifle is a cheap Rem700 Varmint in 308 cut down to 20" and threaded, with a good base and rings and a spare IOR valdada scope I had laying around.
Rifle cost around $350 at Dick's Sporthing goods on Black Friday a couple of years ago. 20 MOA base was like $100, scope was a trade for a pistol (which I shouldn't have done). Smith work on the barrel (cut and thread) was like $100.
I am using the flimsy stock on it, and eventually will swap it out. So far as an Elk gun it works great. I really like the shorter length, and shoots fine.
The reason I went with the REM700 was exactly as mentioned above, as the configuration options are really large.
My Savage serious-shootin' rifle is an old 10FP from back in 2001. It was originally a .260, got rebarreled 4" longer (28") in .260, and now has a 20" .30BR barrel on it. The rifle has always been competitive, even when I haven't.
All the Remington supporters have valid points, but I still prefer my Savage because I think it's easier to work on, and I have never had to give up on an optional modification because those parts were only available for Remington actions. In fact, this makes me want to consider whether a part not being available for a Savage may mean I may need to revisit my thinking in the first place.
When I'm considering a new barrel, this is the first place I look. These barrels need no machining in order to fit a Savage.
And BTW, Semper Fi...
Greg
All the Remington supporters have valid points, but I still prefer my Savage because I think it's easier to work on, and I have never had to give up on an optional modification because those parts were only available for Remington actions. In fact, this makes me want to consider whether a part not being available for a Savage may mean I may need to revisit my thinking in the first place.
When I'm considering a new barrel, this is the first place I look. These barrels need no machining in order to fit a Savage.
And BTW, Semper Fi...
Greg
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First off, Semper Fi! Second, I've narrowed it down to the savage and found a remington 700 varmint for 549. It has a camouflage stock on it and available at dicks. My main question is, do I go with the savage and wait a couple weeks until I can get a good 20moa mount and the vortex scope I want? Or do I get the remington that comes with a cheap 4-12 scope and still wait for the mount and scope? How hard will it be for me to remove the mounts and install the new mount? I've never done that before. Also, the savage has a 20 inch barrel and the remington has a 24 I think. Will that make a difference? I will probably get the Harris 6-9 bipod when I buy the rifle, should I get the fixed or the swivel?
Sorry to be a total newbie, but I want to get started with a decent setup. I know I don't have the funds for too much, but I want to get into long range with what I can afford right now. I'm set on the .308 btw.
Sorry to be a total newbie, but I want to get started with a decent setup. I know I don't have the funds for too much, but I want to get into long range with what I can afford right now. I'm set on the .308 btw.
If this rifle is not going to be used for hunting then I would go with the Savage LRP 6.5 Creedmoor ($950), an SWFA SS 10X or 12X ($300), EGR 20MOA base ($60) (20MOA not really needed with the SWFA fixed scopes 43 mil of elevation), Harris 6-9 Bipod ($100), and whatever rings (low) you want.
6.5 Creedmoor match ammo is available from from Hornady if you don't reload (yet).
IMO, The 6.5 Creedmoor is a much better round than the 308 for 800-1400 yd target shooting.
6.5 Creedmoor match ammo is available from from Hornady if you don't reload (yet).
IMO, The 6.5 Creedmoor is a much better round than the 308 for 800-1400 yd target shooting.
I think I would get the vortex and wait for another Remington without a scope. Maybe you could find one used for $350 and put it in a Bell and Carlson or used HS Precision stock with a decent scope base for close to $600. I bet you could get a special from Cabellas or Dicks for ~$450 new if you have the time to wait. I would get a .308 if possible. Maybe a .243 if it has a fast twist but not used.
If you got a new R700 later you could rebarrel and true the action it and what not and your rig would be real decent for not too much cash.
I would get the swivel with the notched legs.
I would opt for a 20" Tac over any other offerings. If you got a 24" and wanted a brake installed you could cut it down at that time. There are Tac models out there with the muzzle all ready threaded also.
If you got a new R700 later you could rebarrel and true the action it and what not and your rig would be real decent for not too much cash.
I would get the swivel with the notched legs.
I would opt for a 20" Tac over any other offerings. If you got a 24" and wanted a brake installed you could cut it down at that time. There are Tac models out there with the muzzle all ready threaded also.
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I went with a Rem 700 Varmint (Dick's Special) in .243. $400.00
HS take off with 5r bottom metal from here on the Hide $300.00
EGW HD 20 MOA. $60.00
Burris XTR low rings $60.00
Viper PST 4-16 FFP mil/mil. $710 (demo from Optics Planet, but hey substituted a brand new one for me)
Triad Stock Pack $40.00
Vtac sling. $25.00
KRG bolt knob $30.00
A hair over $1600 got me a starter rifle with OK glass that put up an under .75 group of 5 with factory Hornandy.
HS take off with 5r bottom metal from here on the Hide $300.00
EGW HD 20 MOA. $60.00
Burris XTR low rings $60.00
Viper PST 4-16 FFP mil/mil. $710 (demo from Optics Planet, but hey substituted a brand new one for me)
Triad Stock Pack $40.00
Vtac sling. $25.00
KRG bolt knob $30.00
A hair over $1600 got me a starter rifle with OK glass that put up an under .75 group of 5 with factory Hornandy.
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stick with the savage, there's just about as many aftermarket items for them as there are for remingtons, besides as remington makes more of the sav-rems i i i mean remington 783 the 700's will just fade away, then there will be more for savege's hahahahaha see you remington guys weasel out of this
I agree on the savages. Out of the box I think they outperform the Remingtons maybe not by much. Either one is good. I just think the savages are a bit better. But then again I'm a savage guy
I am putting my first one together right now. I just made the same decision you are faced with and I decided on the savage 110 fcp hs precision 300 win mag with the vortex viper pst 4-16x50. Nightforce 20 moa single rAil base and nightforce rings. Only two things I am changing about rifle is adding a muzzle brake and adjustable cheek piece. I love it!!
Remington varmints have a $50 rebate this month.
But those will limit you to lighter bullets....
I looked at the savages when I was staring out.
Bought a remington 700.
My forts long range bolt gun is
R700 AAC-SD 308 20in
TPS 20moa rail
SWFA 10x
SWFA low rings
Haris 6-9
Spend the rest of the money on ammo and range time.
Not a lot of difference between a 20 and 26 in barrel for a new shooter.
But those will limit you to lighter bullets....
I looked at the savages when I was staring out.
Bought a remington 700.
My forts long range bolt gun is
R700 AAC-SD 308 20in
TPS 20moa rail
SWFA 10x
SWFA low rings
Haris 6-9
Spend the rest of the money on ammo and range time.
Not a lot of difference between a 20 and 26 in barrel for a new shooter.
Great advise. I'm no expert by any means but. For me it comes down to trigger mainly. Followed by glass. With quality ammo in there too. Get a 700 in a varmint contour, nothing wrong with the used market either. Jewell trigger, this is the cry once part. I've owned a bunch of savages, for me the trigger system pushed me away, and now just own 700 patterns. Savages do rule the diy market though. 15 minutes saves 250 bucks of smithing. Just like the engineering on a rem pattern trigger. Cry twice and get a night force or March or sim. For far less $$ Had great success with a vortex viper. Picked the wide duplex up from camera land awhile back and it's still in the rotation. This gives you a great start. Upgrade the stock as you see fit. Burn the factory tube out then true and screw a custom tube on. Put reloading in there somewhere and you are good to go. Trigger time is where it at and the fun part too. Again, where reloading comes into play
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