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Beginning load development for long distance

NCHillbilly

Libertata Aut Morte
Full Member
Minuteman
  • Jul 7, 2012
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    The occupied states of America
    I am in the process of beginning load development for long distance. I have read the sticky for this, but I do not currently have some of the equipment that has been suggested to use (bullet comparator, rod locks). My question is this: could I not make up a dummy round using the specific bullet that I want to load for, by inserting said bullet into a case, leaving it seated long. Chamber the round and slowly and gently close and lock the bolt. Remove the round from the chamber and measure from base to meplat, record that measurement for future reference, add .010" to jam it and begin my work up with powder.
    I have handloaded for years, but was always limited to magazine length, so none of the above was necessary. I finally have something that will shoot long distance, so I'd like to do this the right way.
     
    If you want to do it the right way, I’d just spend the $30 or so and get a comparator for your calipers.
     
    • Like
    Reactions: spife7980
    I run a mandrel through the neck and then size with 1 thou tension, load long, and then chamber the round. I usually repeat it 3-5 times and find the results extremely consistent. If they're not consistent, then I put a light layer of CLP on the bullet where it engages the lands and/or increase neck tension until I get consistent results. I don't like any harder if a jam than that, so I'll work out from there. If you're going to load with normal neck tension, then I think your measurement is going to be your hard jam number. I don't think I would run 10 in from there.

    Measurements to meplats will get you close to start, but then you're going to need to rely on your die. If you don't use micrometer dies then you're going to have to get a comparator. Meplats aren't going to be consistent enough to give you a good reference point.

    I use Wilson micrometer seating dies. I put that dummy round in the seater and then dial down until I see the slightest stem lift. I call that zero and work from there. If zero is actually a couple thou in or out I don't really care. During workup I'm going to find that X on my die is where I need to be and then set it to X to load. If I think I'm 10 out but I'm actually 12 out, I don't really care as long as I'm consistent and can repeat that depth.
     
    I just ordered an overall length gauge and a comparator, so I won't have to guess.
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