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Bergara Premier Series Bolt in a Standard HMR?

Luva_n_FrenZ

Private
Minuteman
Jan 24, 2019
28
20
Considering a fluted bolt upgrade for my B14 HMR 6.5CM. I contacted BPI Outdoors and they informed me that they do sell the Premier Series bolt for $279.99. This is the email I got from them:

"The premier series bolt is available and will be safe for use in your HMR. Please call us at 770-449-4687 for purchase. The headspace will be unaffected.


Thank You,

Oliver Botts
Customer Service Rep
BPI Outdoors"

So according to Bergara, this would be a direct drop-in bolt without needing to double check headspace. I would suspect that the Bergara rep knows his product especially since headspace is important for safe operation.

Anyone has experience with this? Has anyone upgraded their HMR with their Premier fluted bolt?
 
Been running it for quite some time now, together with the TriggerTech Special some of the best money I ever spent on my Bergara B14 and yes it is a drop in and I verified it with my own Go/No-Go gauges on my HMR. The action does benefit from working the bolt back and forth for as long as you feel you want to do it and will get much smoother, don't forget to give it a proper lube before though.
 

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Lookin' good! How do you like it? Have you taken it to the range yet? Looks like it was made for the Bravo.
 
Lookin' good! How do you like it? Have you taken it to the range yet? Looks like it was made for the Bravo.

Thanks. Not yet, I was banging a gong at 1000m on Saturday afternnoon in 20mph winds. Made the day quite challenging and interesting. Came home and saw the mailman had delivered the bolt to my doorstep.

Even though Bergara states the Premier is a drop-in bolt I still ordered a set of Forsters headspace gauges to double check myself. Did you have to remove the firing pin, extractor, and ejection when you did the headspace check?
 

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Just to confirm that Bergara is correct, their Premier Series bolt will drop into the standard HMR, headspace unaffected. I did a headspace check with a new set of Forsters 6.5cm go/no-go gauges.

Bolt closed without effort on go gauge.

Bolt will not close at all on no-go gauge.
 

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Just to confirm that Bergara is correct, their Premier Series bolt will drop into the standard HMR, headspace unaffected. I did a headspace check with a new set of Forsters 6.5cm go/no-go gauges.

Bolt closed without effort on go gauge.

Bolt will not close at all on no-go gauge.

Newbie questions...
1. What does this mean when the "Go" gauge allows the bolt tp close but the "No-go" gauge does not? - I understand that the bolt is not allowed to close when the "No-go" gauge is in place which means that the rifle can not be fired. What else might be the problem?
2. What would be the solution or next step when this happens?
 
Newbie questions...
1. What does this mean when the "Go" gauge allows the bolt tp close but the "No-go" gauge does not? - I understand that the bolt is not allowed to close when the "No-go" gauge is in place which means that the rifle can not be fired. What else might be the problem?
2. What would be the solution or next step when this happens?
Nothing. It worked perfectly. It goes on go. It doesn’t go on nogo.
 
Nothing. It worked perfectly. It goes on go. It doesn’t go on nogo.

So, what function does the "No-go" gauge do? - Am i correct to assume that if the bolt had closed whiie the "No-go" gauge was inserted in the chamber, this would indicate that there was an issue? If So, what would the issue be?
 
So, what function does the "No-go" gauge do? - Am i correct to assume that if the bolt had closed whiie the "No-go" gauge was inserted in the chamber, this would indicate that there was an issue? If So, what would the issue be?
Too much head space.
 
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In my case, the Premier has a small firing pin. The large pin in the stock B14 bolt cratered everything, and pierced small primer Lapua brass. I believe the fluting has some advantages if you shoot in dusty environments. That's not a problem in SE Georgia. Avoiding rust and mildew is a bigger concern around here.
 
Too much head space.

Thanks Tokay444.

So I googled "too much headspace". Here's an answer given by ammoland.com for those newbies like me... =-)
"Due to increased end-play in the chamber, a cartridge with excessive headspace is not going to shoot as accurately as one that's correctly headspaced. ... Because the cartridge is not positioned uniformly in the chamber from shot to shot, ignition of primer and charge is likewise not going to be uniform.Dec 1, 2012"

My next question would be... upon a "no-go" positive indication... does this mean that the rifle is then unsafe to fire or just that my shots will just be less accurate as stated above by ammoland.com?
 
What do you mean by ""No-Go" positive indication"?
 
If the Go goes and the No-Go doesn't go, shoot the gun.
 
In my case, the Premier has a small firing pin. The large pin in the stock B14 bolt cratered everything, and pierced small primer Lapua brass. I believe the fluting has some advantages if you shoot in dusty environments. That's not a problem in SE Georgia. Avoiding rust and mildew is a bigger concern around here.

Thanks Jake. Hmmm, the pieced primers are a bit of a concern. Was the cratering and pierced primers due to certain handholds or did this happen on factory ammo also? So the Premier HMR bolt is better for rust?

I am attaching a picture taken from google (again for newbies like me) to show what a cratered and pierced primer looks like. This was taken from a site called Western Powders and the artical was written by Ron Colvin on Feb.28, 2019. Here's a link to the article... http://blog.westernpowders.com/2019/02/cratered-and-pierced-primers-in-the-308-ar-family/

IMG_221772.jpg
 
If the Go goes and the No-Go doesn't go, shoot the gun.

I guess, my question is... if i can close the bolt on the "No-go" gauge... what do i do then? Can I still shoot the gun safely albeit with less accuracy or should i STOP because there is a more serious issue? If there is a safety issue, what would that issue be? Thanks.
 
If you can close your bolt on the No-Go, your head space is too large and you need to get your gun fixed. Don't shoot it. Get it fixed.
 
Thanks Tokay444.

So I googled "too much headspace". Here's an answer given by ammoland.com for those newbies like me... =-)
"Due to increased end-play in the chamber, a cartridge with excessive headspace is not going to shoot as accurately as one that's correctly headspaced. ... Because the cartridge is not positioned uniformly in the chamber from shot to shot, ignition of primer and charge is likewise not going to be uniform.Dec 1, 2012"

My next question would be... upon a "no-go" positive indication... does this mean that the rifle is then unsafe to fire or just that my shots will just be less accurate as stated above by ammoland.com?
So a chamber is created with a reamer, that reamers geometry is fixed, the reamer wont change, so youre stuck with the shape, all you can really control is how deep you insert the reamer into the barrel during the process of chambering the barrel. Headspace is basically a measure of how deep the reamer was inserted into the barrel indicated by the shoulder (which is at an angle).

Saami is a governing body and they publish some charts, in those charts are specs. In this chart they published for the 6.5 creed you will see that the red line is on basically the middle of the shoulder. That red line is on the datum plane where the shoulder diameter is exactly .400" (datum explained below). So basically we are measuring from that datum plane at .400" all the way back to the bottom of the case. Which should be a max of 1.5438" and up to .007" below that meaning anywhere from 1.5438" to 1.5368" deep is in spec.
1581517022364.png



So to measure from the angled surface of the shoulder back to the case head is tough. What we are really wanting is to measure the distance between two flat parallel planes. The first datum plane of reference is the base of the case which is nice and flat and easy, the second datum plane of reference will need to be at some point on the shoulders. Because the shoulders are a cone, a circle tool with a given diameter will allow us to settle into exactly the same location on the shoulders evenly all around consistently each time. So we create a datum diameter (.400" as example for a bunch of chamberings) and that will allow us to measure the same spot on the shoulders consistently back to the case head which is basically how deeply the reamer was inserted.​
1581517207016.png


What a go gauge does is act as a depth gauge. It is preciously cut to a certain distance between the case head where the bolt touches the case and the chambers shoulder. When you insert the go gauge you want it to close on the go gauge so that you know the chambers is cut adequately deep/long. When you insert the no go gauge, which is slightly longer than go, you want the bolt to stop short of closing so that you know the chamber isnt cut overly deep/long. This guarantees that you are firmly inside the spec designed for that ammo.
1581518041929.png



Being slightly long isnt the worst thing in the world and actually guarantees it will function with dirt and grime etc, AI is a great example if this as they cut their chambers slightly long so the inspec ammo will always chamber in the rifle during war even if the rifle falls in the sand and mud and ice.
But there is one more gauge that is called a field gauge which is even longer still and is designed for the actual safety check. I fit passes on the field then you need to get the case checked because its wayy too deep and can lead to brass cases cracking and stretching and just not great stuff at 60k psi.


But for a rifle that Im not doing war with Id rather have a tighter chamber that falls inside the go and no go parameters and limits the amount of deformation that is imparted on the case during firing, too much stretch can split brass and do all sorts of nasty things but it can also stretch a fair amount safely if you dont over do it, its how ackley improved chamber brass is made and its called fire forming.
 
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So a chamber is created with a reamer, that reamers geometry is fixed, the reamer wont change, so youre stuck with the shape, all you can really control is how deep you insert the reamer into the barrel during the process of chambering the barrel. Headspace is basically a measure of how deep the reamer was inserted into the barrel indicated by the shoulder (which is at an angle).

Saami is a governing body and they publish some charts, in those charts are specs. In this chart they published for the 6.5 creed you will see that the red line is on basically the middle of the shoulder. That red line is on the datum plane where the shoulder diameter is exactly .400" (datum explained below). So basically we are measuring from that datum plane at .400" all the way back to the bottom of the case. Which should be a max of 1.5438" and up to .007" below that meaning anywhere from 1.5438" to 1.5368" deep is in spec.
View attachment 7247683


So to measure from the angled surface of the shoulder back to the case head is tough. What we are really wanting is to measure the distance between two flat parallel planes. The first datum plane of reference is the base of the case which is nice and flat and easy, the second datum plane of reference will need to be at some point on the shoulders. Because the shoulders are a cone, a circle tool with a given diameter will allow us to settle into exactly the same location on the shoulders evenly all around consistently each time. So we create a datum diameter (.400" as example for a bunch of chamberings) and that will allow us to measure the same spot on the shoulders consistently back to the case head which is basically how deeply the reamer was inserted.​


What a go gauge does is act as a depth gauge. It is preciously cut to a certain distance between the case head where the bolt touches the case and the chambers shoulder. When you insert the go gauge you want it to close on the go gauge so that you know the chambers is cut adequately deep/long. When you insert the no go gauge, which is slightly longer than go, you want the bolt to stop short of closing so that you know the chamber isnt cut overly deep/long. This guarantees that you are firmly inside the spec designed for that ammo.
View attachment 7247688


Being slightly long isnt the worst thing in the world and actually guarantees it will function with dirt and grime etc, AI is a great example if this as they cut their chambers slightly long so the inspec ammo will always chamber in the rifle during war even if the rifle falls in the sand and mud and ice.
But there is one more gauge that is called a field gauge which is even longer still and is designed for the actual safety check. I fit passes on the field then you need to get the case checked because its wayy too deep and can lead to brass cases cracking and stretching and just not great stuff at 60k psi.


But for a rifle that Im not doing war with Id rather have a tighter chamber that falls inside the go and no go parameters and limits the amount of deformation that is imparted on the case during firing, too much stretch can split brass and do all sorts of nasty things but it can also stretch a fair amount safely if you dont over do it, its how ackley improved chamber brass is made and its called fire forming.

Thank you to everyone who took the time to respond. I have gained valuable knowledge and i know that future newbies like myself will benefit from this exchange. I am especially grateful to Spife7980 for taking the time to share such an indepth explaination because sometimes a simple answer is not so simple without a knowledge base to draw from. - XBS1200.
 
What's the actual advantages of the Premier bolt? I know what the features are, but what advantages do they actually provide over the standard HMR bolt?
 
So a chamber is created with a reamer, that reamers geometry is fixed, the reamer wont change, so youre stuck with the shape, all you can really control is how deep you insert the reamer into the barrel during the process of chambering the barrel. Headspace is basically a measure of how deep the reamer was inserted into the barrel indicated by the shoulder (which is at an angle).

Saami is a governing body and they publish some charts, in those charts are specs. In this chart they published for the 6.5 creed you will see that the red line is on basically the middle of the shoulder. That red line is on the datum plane where the shoulder diameter is exactly .400" (datum explained below). So basically we are measuring from that datum plane at .400" all the way back to the bottom of the case. Which should be a max of 1.5438" and up to .007" below that meaning anywhere from 1.5438" to 1.5368" deep is in spec.
View attachment 7247683


So to measure from the angled surface of the shoulder back to the case head is tough. What we are really wanting is to measure the distance between two flat parallel planes. The first datum plane of reference is the base of the case which is nice and flat and easy, the second datum plane of reference will need to be at some point on the shoulders. Because the shoulders are a cone, a circle tool with a given diameter will allow us to settle into exactly the same location on the shoulders evenly all around consistently each time. So we create a datum diameter (.400" as example for a bunch of chamberings) and that will allow us to measure the same spot on the shoulders consistently back to the case head which is basically how deeply the reamer was inserted.​


What a go gauge does is act as a depth gauge. It is preciously cut to a certain distance between the case head where the bolt touches the case and the chambers shoulder. When you insert the go gauge you want it to close on the go gauge so that you know the chambers is cut adequately deep/long. When you insert the no go gauge, which is slightly longer than go, you want the bolt to stop short of closing so that you know the chamber isnt cut overly deep/long. This guarantees that you are firmly inside the spec designed for that ammo.
View attachment 7247688


Being slightly long isnt the worst thing in the world and actually guarantees it will function with dirt and grime etc, AI is a great example if this as they cut their chambers slightly long so the inspec ammo will always chamber in the rifle during war even if the rifle falls in the sand and mud and ice.
But there is one more gauge that is called a field gauge which is even longer still and is designed for the actual safety check. I fit passes on the field then you need to get the case checked because its wayy too deep and can lead to brass cases cracking and stretching and just not great stuff at 60k psi.


But for a rifle that Im not doing war with Id rather have a tighter chamber that falls inside the go and no go parameters and limits the amount of deformation that is imparted on the case during firing, too much stretch can split brass and do all sorts of nasty things but it can also stretch a fair amount safely if you dont over do it, its how ackley improved chamber brass is made and its called fire forming.
Professor Spife is in da house!
 
What's the actual advantages of the Premier bolt? I know what the features are, but what advantages do they actually provide over the standard HMR bolt?

In my case, the small FP was what I needed. Others have said the bolt fluting was an advantage in dusty conditions. There may (or may not) be others I don't know about.
 
In my case, the small FP was what I needed. Others have said the bolt fluting was an advantage in dusty conditions. There may (or may not) be others I don't know about.
It looks like the bolt knob is all one piece, so I assume it's R700-esque in that it's not replaceable without cutting and threading? I wonder why they would do that on the high end option when the low end option is threaded already.
 
It looks like the bolt knob is all one piece, so I assume it's R700-esque in that it's not replaceable without cutting and threading? I wonder why they would do that on the high end option when the low end option is threaded already.
The bolt knobs are still threaded.
There’s also a gas shield.
 
In my case, the small FP was what I needed. Others have said the bolt fluting was an advantage in dusty conditions. There may (or may not) be others I don't know about.
Thanks Jake. Hmmm, the pieced primers are a bit of a concern. Was the cratering and pierced primers due to certain handholds or did this happen on factory ammo also? So the Premier HMR bolt is better for rust?

I am attaching a picture taken from google (again for newbies like me) to show what a cratered and pierced primer looks like. This was taken from a site called Western Powders and the artical was written by Ron Colvin on Feb.28, 2019. Here's a link to the article... http://blog.westernpowders.com/2019/02/cratered-and-pierced-primers-in-the-308-ar-family/

IMG_221772.jpg

I was going to ask Jake why the smaller firing pin in the HMR pro/premier bolt aided in eleviating the "Cratered primers". Here's one possible answer... a quote from DAVETOOLEY (one of Sniper's Hide Forum members); posted on March 9th, 2011. Here's a link to that thread... https://www.snipershide.com/shooting/threads/small-and-large-primer-firing-pins.32590/

"Re: small and large primer firing pins

One of the main reasons for pursueing smaller diameter firing pin tips was to mangage pressure. This started with the short range BR guys many years ago. Leaving the discussion about which size is more accurate for each size primer on the sidelines for now it's all about physics. Pressure is measured in Pounds Per Square Inch. Primer cups for the most part do not change thickness to maintain sensitivity. So as pressures increase the only way to control the PUCKER FACTOR is to reduce the surface area exposed to the firing pin hole in the bolt face. The smaller the diameter the less surface area, the less primer cup is pushed back into the firing pin hole with the same chamber pressures."
 
The bolt knobs are still threaded.
There’s also a gas shield.
Maybe the pictures are deceiving me, but they definitely look like they're one solid piece. What's the purpose/advantage of the gas shield?

1581524351436.png
 
Ummm...to shield you from gas. As in, when a case fails and gas escapes (i.e. an over loaded cartridge)
Lol I know it was kind of a wonky question that deserved a wonky answer. I guess I more meant, if the standard HMR doesn't appear to need one, why does the Premier need one?

I'm getting the feeling that the Premier bolt is designed mainly with handloaders in mind.
 
B-14 is built, Premier is over build.
And yes, the picture is deceiving. That knob is threaded on.
 
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The gas shield adds one more layer of safety between that hopefully controlled explosion and your eyes. Kind of hard to line up that 500 yard shot by touch.
When I say my original bolt cratered everything, I mean EVERYTHING. Factory, my reloads, anything I put in it. I think the issue was excessive clearance between the pin and hole. It let the primer cup flow back into that void. Didn't stop it from shooting a half moa though. My shooting bud has a B14, don't remember the model. What cratered with my bolt shoots fine in his. Haven't measured the pin holes, but his looks a bit smaller.
 
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B-14 is built, Premier is over build.
And yes, the picture is deceiving. That knob is threaded on.

The gas shield adds one more layer of safety between that hopefully controlled explosion and your eyes. Kind of hard to line up that 500 yard shot by touch.
When I say my original bolt cratered everything, I mean EVERYTHING. Factory, my reloads, anything I put in it. I think the issue was excessive clearance between the pin and hole. It let the primer cup flow back into that void. Didn't stop it from shooting a half moa though. My shooting bud has a B14, don't remember the model. What cratered with my bolt shoots fine in his. Haven't measured the pin holes, but his looks a bit smaller.

Gotcha, makes sense. Thanks for the information guys. I may look into snagging one of these.
 
Just to add a little bit to the discussion of why excessive headspace is bad-
When the firing pin strikes the primer it pushes the entire cartridge forward. The round is pushed all the way forward until the shoulder hits the front of the chamber (datum points shown above). When the primer and powder ignite the brass case is forced outwards against the chamber walls. The extreme pressure causes the case to stick to chamber walls throughout the firing cycle. The pressure in the case forces the head back until it contacts the bolt face. Because the walls of the case are pinned to the walls of the chamber by the extreme pressure the unsupported area just above the extractor groove (the "web") is forced to stretch. In a properly headspaced rifle the web only stretches a few thousandths of an inch which is fine. With excessive headspace (chamber cut to deep/long) the web stretches farther than it should which can cause it to thin over time until it fails (reloading), or fail catastrophically which can cause severe injury, damage to the gun, or potentially death. So yes, get it fixed.

As far as the premier bolt, i believe I read somewhere that they are machined with an integral lug on the bolt body which in turn has the bolt handle threaded into it. They may also have a second thread at the bolt knob as well. The standard action bolt is built more like a standard R-700 bolt but rather than silver soldered on like the Rem. it is laser welded around the perimeter.
 
I was also looking at getting a premier bolt for my 6.5CM. As everyone has heard the larger firing pin in mine is causing bad cratering and finally pierced a primer just before hunting season.
Are there any arguments that the premier bolt is showing any accuracy improvements? I love the look of the flutes but by the time I pay for a new bolt it’s about triple the price of getting my pin machined and the bolt face bushed.
 
I was also looking at getting a premier bolt for my 6.5CM. As everyone has heard the larger firing pin in mine is causing bad cratering and finally pierced a primer just before hunting season.
Are there any arguments that the premier bolt is showing any accuracy improvements? I love the look of the flutes but by the time I pay for a new bolt it’s about triple the price of getting my pin machined and the bolt face bushed.
Accuracy improvement in mine was marginal since I guess I had been pretty lucky with the B14 I got to begin with, besides the cratering issue the biggest selling points to me were the bayonet style firing pin assembly with easy disassembly and reassembly, the fluting, gas shield, and the stainless, plus I had it in my rifle and on the range within a week from ordering and having it shipped. I had wanted a Pro to begin with but since they weren't available yet when I was ready to buy I went with the B14 because I got an excellent deal on it at the time. I don't regret getting the Premier bolt because it runs so much smoother and is perfect with the TriggerTech Special I paired it with. For a factory rifle it definitely delivers.

Almost forgot, the B14s back then also were still having some issues with the bolt shrouds which were welded and the Premier bolt shrouds are just much beefier and were a stark contrast to the light B14 shrouds.
 
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Hey fellers,
Just sent in my 2016 b14 bmp with the up dated premier bolt to get checked out. Here is the issue I was having. Cold bore shots, maybe slow and go, no sticky bolt. But if I heated the barrel up with quick successive firing, each time I put one into the chamber it kept getting tighter and tighter, same with extraction. The gun smith called me back this morning, June 30th and said hey, can't find any problems with putting 5 down. I told him to put about 10 or more fast and it'll rear it's ugly head. These are not just drop ins, if one is doing rapid fire. Like their bolt shroud/hood on the original bolt that had an issue, (mine included), not everyone was faced with it. My old bolt was working just fine after the new shroud. One of the reasons for changing was I could only get the trigger down to what Bergara set as the low limit, 2.5lbs. Their reason was, the original bolt spring was so strong that anything under 2lbs could be dangerous. That is one of the reasons for the deep cratering of primers in the first place. Even had one spray back at me one time. Another fellow i ran into had many problems with the same, sent his entire rifle in twice to Bergara to get checked/fixed. I changed the bolt to a trigger Tech Diamond so that I could get my trigger weight down, in doing so I needed a bolt with a lighter spring pressure, the premier was that bolt. I have been in discussion with a few heads on the subject about head spacing, it would only make sense to at least get it checked or if one is capable, do it yourself. I believe the true test is run a box of ammo down the tube fairly fast and then make a decision. It would show up once the barrel starts to heat up.
 
Hey fellers,
Just sent in my 2016 b14 bmp with the up dated premier bolt to get checked out. Here is the issue I was having. Cold bore shots, maybe slow and go, no sticky bolt. But if I heated the barrel up with quick successive firing, each time I put one into the chamber it kept getting tighter and tighter, same with extraction. The gun smith called me back this morning, June 30th and said hey, can't find any problems with putting 5 down. I told him to put about 10 or more fast and it'll rear it's ugly head. These are not just drop ins, if one is doing rapid fire. Like their bolt shroud/hood on the original bolt that had an issue, (mine included), not everyone was faced with it. My old bolt was working just fine after the new shroud. One of the reasons for changing was I could only get the trigger down to what Bergara set as the low limit, 2.5lbs. Their reason was, the original bolt spring was so strong that anything under 2lbs could be dangerous. That is one of the reasons for the deep cratering of primers in the first place. Even had one spray back at me one time. Another fellow i ran into had many problems with the same, sent his entire rifle in twice to Bergara to get checked/fixed. I changed the bolt to a trigger Tech Diamond so that I could get my trigger weight down, in doing so I needed a bolt with a lighter spring pressure, the premier was that bolt. I have been in discussion with a few heads on the subject about head spacing, it would only make sense to at least get it checked or if one is capable, do it yourself. I believe the true test is run a box of ammo down the tube fairly fast and then make a decision. It would show up once the barrel starts to heat up.
Any updates on this issue?
 
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Hey fellers,
Just sent in my 2016 b14 bmp with the up dated premier bolt to get checked out. Here is the issue I was having. Cold bore shots, maybe slow and go, no sticky bolt. But if I heated the barrel up with quick successive firing, each time I put one into the chamber it kept getting tighter and tighter, same with extraction. The gun smith called me back this morning, June 30th and said hey, can't find any problems with putting 5 down. I told him to put about 10 or more fast and it'll rear it's ugly head. These are not just drop ins, if one is doing rapid fire. Like their bolt shroud/hood on the original bolt that had an issue, (mine included), not everyone was faced with it. My old bolt was working just fine after the new shroud. One of the reasons for changing was I could only get the trigger down to what Bergara set as the low limit, 2.5lbs. Their reason was, the original bolt spring was so strong that anything under 2lbs could be dangerous. That is one of the reasons for the deep cratering of primers in the first place. Even had one spray back at me one time. Another fellow i ran into had many problems with the same, sent his entire rifle in twice to Bergara to get checked/fixed. I changed the bolt to a trigger Tech Diamond so that I could get my trigger weight down, in doing so I needed a bolt with a lighter spring pressure, the premier was that bolt. I have been in discussion with a few heads on the subject about head spacing, it would only make sense to at least get it checked or if one is capable, do it yourself. I believe the true test is run a box of ammo down the tube fairly fast and then make a decision. It would show up once the barrel starts to heat up.
So did your gunsmith confirm the problem with the premier bolt? So drop in ready is not true?
 
Anyone swapped out a .308 bolt (.473) for a magnum bolt (.532)?
Can it be done just like previously mentioned swaps? Obviously with a new barrel and chambering
 
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