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best .308 dies?

I am fairly new to reloading, as I just started around a year ago when I got back from Iraq. I have a single stage RCBS Rock Chucker, and purchaed a few other tools to help out.

I reload for my M1A and use 175 Sierra HPBT. I got the M1a used, and the fellow I got it from gave me a used set of standard Lee .308 dies.

I am deployed again, and while I am making much better pay, I am trying to stock up on reloading stuff. I want to get a better set of dies, and wonder what match dies folks her recommend? I will continue to reload for the M1a, and will most likely pick up a bolt gun in .308 also.

Thanks,
 
Re: best .308 dies?

Get a set of Forster benchrest dies. They are excellent dies for the money. You may want to buy a "Small base" full length sizing die for the 308 if you plan to shoot a lot in your M1A. It sizes the case further down so they won't stick in your semiauto.
 
Re: best .308 dies?

I have a Lee bullet seating die and I believe my decaping die is a full lenght die. It has been four months since seeing any of my reloading stuff.


I did not have anyone to really teach me, so I purchased a set of 9mm dies and experemented with them. Once I got comfortable with the whole operation, I started doing loads for the M1a.

I took advice from the man that built my M1a. Problems is, he had it (still has it) while I did my reloads, and I never got to try my loads out. My original goal was just to get as close as I could at replicating the M118 LC LR ammo.

I was not looking at reloading as a hobby, and did not think it would be something I would enjoy, I just wanted cheap ammo. For some reason, it is a bit addictive. My oldest daughter is not quite typical for a ten year old, as she is very meticulous in everything she does. She kind of got into reloading with me.

Once I started learning and studying more, I have the desire to tune the ammo to the rifle. I see where a few companies make the match dies with the adjutment piece on the top. I wondered it one was better than the other, or it was just a preference.
 
Re: best .308 dies?

Redding is tops for custom and competition dies. I like Hornady dies for standard FL sets. RCBS are fine, I just don't like the screw driver and pliers needed to make die adjustments. Hornady dies also have a tear-drop expander ball, which allows brass more room to enter the die. On Redding and RCBS dies, the expander ball has a flat spot and brass sometimes catches on this when sizing or cleaning up case necks.
 
Re: best .308 dies?

I agree with Chad on this matter. Redding is by far the best quality you can buy. Hornady "new dimension" dies are also excellent. RCBS are good if you don't have to make a lot of changes.

A side step of the same subject. You can get a full length die and if you decide to try neck sizing only, you can readjust the die and do that. But if you decide that isn't for you, just adjust it back for full length sizing.

If it's something I expect high degrees of accuracy from, I get a Redding "S" full length sizing die (with appropriate bushing) and their comp. seater die. Their comp. seater is a real eye opener. You can do the same thing with a standard die. But it does take time.
 
Re: best .308 dies?

"If it's something I expect high degrees of accuracy from, I get a Redding "S" full length sizing die (with appropriate bushing) and their comp. seater die. Their comp. seater is a real eye opener. You can do the same thing with a standard die. But it does take time."

+1 on the Redding S and Comp Seater. I have a Forster Co-Ax for 308. I even have the Comp Seater mounted on my Redding 550 for 223. It makes it so much easier to adjust cartridge length in thousandths of an inch.
 
Re: best .308 dies?

+100 for the redding comp seater die,
it was my first 'upgrade' from using lee dies, and it had an immediate impact on my groups.. WELL worth the price tag!!

i now have a mix of redding/forster FL and neck dies, and like them all.

i also had trouble with the sharp edge on the redding expander ball though.. and had to polish it.. so if i had to choose, i would say the forster is better in that regard.

(the expander ball in the forster is higher up than the redding also, so it engages the neck sooner when lowering the case back out, this means more of the case is still in the die as the inside neck sizing takes place, possibly 'supporting' the case better and helping concentricity for what its worth..)

get the comp seating die first though, you will never look back!!
laugh.gif
 
Re: best .308 dies?

I like Redding. I use their "S" bushing dies (both neck only and neck + full length) and Competition Seating dies and can't think of any way to improve on their function.
 
Re: best .308 dies?

"I will continue to reload for the M1a, and will most likely pick up a bolt gun in .308 also."

For the M1, what you have is great, any brand of dies will load as well as the rifle is likely to shoot (I mean they are all really quite good you know!).

IF/when you do get a bolt rifle it will depend on what it is and what you expect to do with it if a die change will make any difference at all. If it's a specialty long range gun, yeah, get the Forster or Redding dies. If it's a factory hunting rifle the Lee dies will still do just as well, spend the money on a better scope, or binoculars, or components, or take your girl out to dinner at a better place.
 
Re: best .308 dies?

My M1A has a Krieger Heavy Match, and the action is bedded into a McMillan stock. It has a match trigger, bored flash supressor, and unitized gas system and a mark 4 on top. I was hoping that match dies would also improve my groups with it. It was still getting built when I deployed, and I have not fired it since the mods.

When I get a bolt gun, it will be long range. I already have a Rem 700 BDL 30 06 for deer hunting. If I was rich, I would get a .308 bolt gun, and a bigger caliber like 300 win mag or .338 LM. I am far from rich, and I may only get one long range bolt gun. Advantage to the .308 is I can use my same reloading set up, can use it on most ranges, ammo is cheaper and more available.

Thanks for the advice. I will look hard at the Redding and Forester.

I am ignorant to the advanteg or disadvantage to full length versus a neck only die?? Also reading a little on shoulder stuff, and am not real educated on shoulder prep?? I use sierra 175 grain HPBT, Lake City LR brass, and Reloader 15 powder with some CCI primers tha are supposed to help stop slam fires.
 
Re: best .308 dies?

"My M1A has a Krieger Heavy Match, and the action is bedded into a McMillan stock. It has a match trigger, bored flash supressor, and unitized gas system and a mark 4 on top."

Ah. Well, that's a very nice rig. It started as an MIA but it really ain't just an "M1A" anymore, is it?
smile.gif


No question, get the Forster or Redding dies, they are equals. (None of the others are worthy of being called "competition" dies.)

IF your auto has a standard chamber (largish) you will not require a Small Base sizer. If it has a tightish chamber you may need a SB sizer die for it to insure reliable chambering.

For your bolt gun you could use the excellant Lee Collet Neck Sizer in conjunction with a body bump die or, as I do it, a conventional FL die with the neck bored out so it doesn't touch the neck. That combo gives total control of what you're doing and makes for some very concentric cases if it's done correctly.

At best, neck sizing only has a small potential for improving accuracy, and that in a bolt gun. It MAY increase case life a little in that it won't cause body splits but, with conventional neck dies, the necks will still split unless they are annealed about every five cycles. The aforementioned Lee neck die works cases the absolute minimum and cases do last longer with it, but it has a moving part and that means there is a slight learning curve to it. The benefits in case life and straighter necks is worth the effort tho.

No seater can correct poor necks, lightly skim turning (typically some 70-80% of circumference) will help. I've chosen the Forster HOT-100 neck turner as the best bang for the buck and plenty good for anything but a full bore BR rig. It's easy to use, the calibrated carbide cutter lasts a LOOONG time.

Slam fires seem to be caused by how well the primers are seated more than the brand. Leave them proud of the case head and the bolt will hit them; that's not good. I prefer Federal caps, they are supposed to be "soft" but I don't find that to be quite true. They are slightly more senstitive and that reduces "failure to fire" problems; I like that.
 
Re: best .308 dies?

Thanks for the info. I think I will go ahead and order my dies while I am over here. The way this new gov is taking a nose dive to socialism, I figure I better get what I can, while I can.

Some of the info give is a bit more detailed that what I understand. I wish I had a good book, or could find a website that would give detailed explanation on neck and shoulder stuff, I would like to learn more.
Thanks,
Skippy
 
Re: best .308 dies?

I think case trimming is one of those things people have split opinions about.

I like to run them thru the trimmer every reload, leave the trimmer set for length, and if it cuts some off, or not.. So be it. At least I know they are all square/consistant/uniform.

Others prefer to let the necks grow, and trim them when the cases get harder to chamber.

As for the trimmer.. I use the L.E Wilson trimmer setup, quality machined stuff, and the shellholders hold the case by the Walls.. Like a hotdog with the sausage hanging out either end lol.
This helps hold the cases square to the cutter, whereas most other cutters use some normal form of shellholder, wherein lies the possibility of things not being so square and concentric to one another.

How much difference this ACTUALY makes I have no idea, I'm sure it's negligable unless your loading for EXTREME accuracy.

Other than the Wilson, you have the Forster trimmer, which has a usefull bunch of different attatchements, neck turners/reamers, primer pocket tools etc..

And Sinclair make their own version too. All quality stuff.
Go check out the Sinclair website, they have all the different trimmers etc you can look at the reviews etc
smile.gif
 
Re: best .308 dies?

As for trim length, I don't think a 'specific' measurement is so important, as long as all the brass is the same. (it all comes back to consistency!)

unless your one of the chaps who measures their chamber length and trims .002" short or whatever.

Takes your choice, but whichever you choose, keep em all the same. Set the trimmer length and then leave it set there.

I take a bunch of new brass that will be used, measure them all, and choose an average length to set the trimmer. So the cases slightly shorter, will grow and be cut uniform first or second firing or whatever.

You get the idea
smile.gif
 
Re: best .308 dies?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: rangerskippy</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I need a case trimmer also. this is another sugject that I am not real educated on. Any suggestions on trimmer and the way in which it is done (measurments, how often...)?

I use Lake City LR brass.

</div></div>
if you have the money please do yourself a favor and get a Giraud Trimmer - the best money and time saver you can buy...bar none I promise.
 
Re: best .308 dies?

We are cooking with gas now. Amazing what you can learn when you ask someone with knowledge. in a reloading sort of way, I am starting to feel like the bastard son of many folks whom I have never met.

OK, so far I am tracking with the following

-Forster or Redding dies. Get competition dies with full lengh and if I get Redding, get the hornady locking device.

-I will stick with the same brand(which ever I get) of bullet seating die, just because I am funny about wanting stuff to always match.

- Forster HOT-100 neck turner is a possibility, but will need further study, as I am still not real sure I get the neck stuff.

- Giraud or L.E Wilson is the way to go on case trimmers, measure some new brass, get the average and set the trimmer for that length.

Now for more knowledge. Currently I tumble my brass, lube and decap, wash with dish soap and let dry. I then take the little metal brush that came with my Rock Chucker and put it in a variable power drill. I put the brush into the primer pocket and clean all the black stuff and put a little shine on it. I then use a hand held primer tool that also came with the kit, and put my primers in.

Is there anything else folks do in relation to the primer pocket, or the little flash hole?

Thanks for all the answers
 
Re: best .308 dies?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: rangerskippy</div><div class="ubbcode-body">-I will stick with the same brand(which ever I get) of bullet seating die, just because I am funny about wanting stuff to always match.</div></div>
So you're choosing fashion over function? Interesting.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: rangerskippy</div><div class="ubbcode-body">-I then take the little metal brush that came with my Rock Chucker and put it in a variable power drill. I put the brush into the primer pocket and clean all the black stuff and put a little shine on it.</div></div>
If you do this, make sure the drill is SLOW. Very slow.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: rangerskippy</div><div class="ubbcode-body">-Is there anything else folks do in relation to the primer pocket, or the little flash hole?</div></div>
De-Burr the flash hole. Only needs to be done once, but it do need to be done.
 
Re: best .308 dies?

For cleaning the cases read this thread

Stainless Steele Thread

I dont do this now but I am about to order this setup and try it. The results look really good.

I also use a RCBS Trim Mate

Trim Mate

With these 5 tools for 308

Tool 1

Tool 2

Tool 3

Tool 4

Tool 5

The Lyman tool screws right in and I do not use the chamfering and deburring tools tools the Trim Mate comes with. Up top I just use brushes.

 
Re: best .308 dies?

"if you have the money please do yourself a favor and get a Giraud Trimmer - the best money and time saver you can buy...bar none I promise."

Giraud is good but I think you gonna blanch when you see the prices of a Giraud (or Gracy) case trimmer. I suppose they are worth the cost to some, perhaps those who routinely trim several hundred at a time but few of us do that. The Possum Hollow trimer is a rational way to trim lots of cases in a hurry and the price is MUCH less. And, for case work you will also need a case mouth chamfer/deburr tool as well, any of them will do nicely but most of us prefer the little "rocket ship" shaped types.

Actually, the effect of "precision" case trimming is much less than many seem to think. Cases change length as they are fired so getting them cut to a thousanth gets (literally) blown away, immediately. The case neck walls are usually blown hard against the chamber before the bullet fully exits the case anyway so small variations in length and mouth squareness really have no significance to accuracy. Due to that, many of us find the simple and inexpensive Lee case trimmer tools to be quite satisfactory!

You need some measuring tools. You WILL need a 6" dial caliper reading in thousanths. For what it appears you are hoping to do, and the quality of your rifles, you will also greatly benefit from some gages to allow you to set your case shoulders correctly during sizing AND for setting the proper cartridge length to the bullet ogive when seating. If you get a set of Hornady's Case Headspace AND Bullet Comparitor tools to put on a modestly priced caliper you will be well on your way to being able to best use your advanced dies.

There is no reloader value in buying professional machinest grade calipers such as Starrett, Mitutoyo, etc. All of the (Chinese made) stainless steel calipers sold with reloading company labels are fine, and indentical except for the price, so get the lowest cost you can find. Usually that will be from MidwayUSA or Harbor Freight Tools when they are on sale for less than $20, as they often are.

A concentricity gage from Sinclair International, along with the less costly dial indicator, will be very useful for checking the straightness of both your cases and loaded rounds. If we can find where any off axis runout is coming from we can fix it so don't bother with tools that try to bend crooked rounds straight.

Sinclair also has a carbide primer pocket uniformer AND a flash hole uniformer/debur tool that are great for a precison handloader to have.

For removing GI primer pocket crimps, I've tried most tools and have come to prefer the simple reamers sold by Lyman. They do remove the crimp smoothly and quickly if I chuck the reamer in an electric drill instead of using the "screw driver" handle they come with.

I say all this in great respect for how you are earning the money you're planning to spend. I would like to see you get maximum benefit from what you have done and are doing.

May God bless you and keep you safe, sir.
 
Re: best .308 dies?

skippy, try to remember what you are setting out to achieve, and on what budget.

its easy to spend huge amounts of cash on many top of the range tools.. but its always the law of diminishing returns..

you will hit a point, (very soon in my case) where the time and money spent on producing top class ammunition is completely negated by the ability of the rifle/shooter to see any benefit lol!

thats not to say though, of the personal satisfaction of making something to the best of your ability.

fuzzball is right, you dont NEED a lot of fancy top dollar stuff, its just nice to own, and a joy to use, and can make some stuff easier and better.

dont overlook the basic equipment (measuring tools etc) in a rush to spend big money on one particular peice of eqipment.

i was assuming you already have the basic stuff.. chamferring/deburing tool, flashole cleaner/uniformer etc?

these can be small simple individual items, and relatively inexpensive, but offer greater returns on ammunition quality than a single expensive item like a posh case trimmer.

your original question.. best dies.. are well worth the money spent.
 
Re: best .308 dies?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">You need some measuring tools. You WILL need a 6" dial caliper reading in thousanths. For what it appears you are hoping to do, and the quality of your rifles, you will also greatly benefit from some gages to allow you to set your case shoulders correctly during sizing AND for setting the proper cartridge length to the bullet ogive when seating. If you get a set of Hornady's Case Headspace AND Bullet Comparitor tools to put on a modestly priced caliper you will be well on your way to being able to best use your advanced dies. </div></div>

+1
 
Re: best .308 dies?

gfunkUK-

The Rock Chucker kit I purchased came with the press, scales, powder drop, neck burshes, chamferring/deburing tool, reloading manual, shell holder plate, hand held primer device, lube pad, and some lube.

I purchased a good caliper, some pistol dies, and a case cleaner (old school vibrating type). Not sure on this new stainless steel device I read about. I was given a set of used Lee .308 dies.
\
I do not have the tool for the flash hole, and will purchase one while I am over here in Afghanistan.

Along with the competition dies, there are some other things I would like to own. It would be nice to have a good electric scale, and the tools for measuring the neck, and tools for measuring the chamber.

As far as big purchase goes, I need a spotting scope. This is not a reloading item ,but I need one. I also would like a chrono.

How much reloading I do when I get back will be dependent on how much I am able to shoot.

When I left Fort Benning, I was the Operations Officer at the Airborne School. The schedule was such, that I could shoot at lunch time most days.

If I get stuck as a brigade Executive Officer or similar job, my hours of work a day will be a bit much to be able to shoot as often as I like.

I am over 20 years, and hope to retire in a few years. Once I am retired, I hope to buy some land where I can shoot when I want. It will be nice to already have all my reloading stuff by then.
 
Re: best .308 dies?

ok mate, heres the kit that you want to start off with..

sorry i dont know how to post pics, but heres a link to one i took for you..

http://www.flickr.com/photos/26389867@N04/4574557600/

thats the hornady OAL kit, with bullet comparator, headspace gage, and the modified .308 case you need to screw onto the OAL gage rod.

the calipers are just $30 digital ones, and work great.

the bulky black tool is the Possum hollow Ppocket uniformer,
and the other is a K&M flashole uniformer, which reams/beburrs/cleans/uniforms the flashole from the inside of the case.

The redding comp seater die speaks for itself.

get these bits first and your good to go!! just choose your neck die as previously discussed, and heres the Wilson trimmer..

http://www.flickr.com/photos/26389867@N04/4574557804/in/photostream/

i have the micrometer attached to the trimmer, but its a luxury item, not needed if your just trimming one calibre to a set length. handy if you want to change lengths with different calibres tho
wink.gif
 
Re: best .308 dies?

When I had my M1A, I used the RCBS standard 2-die f/l resizing set, never gave it a lot of additional thought, never had any problems that did not trace down to operator error. Personally, I'd say that it pays to keep things simple, that this is simple enough; and I'd not be adding overthink and complexity to the process.

Small base dies are something that I'd only consider as a last resort, after all other remedies are pursued to a conclusive result. This is the advice I give following a serious venture into S/B resizing.

Win brass, flash hole reamed.
42.2gr IMR4064
Fed210M primer
175SMK 2.815"OAL, moderate taper crimp.

If there are any chambering issues, check shoulder length first.

Trimming semiauto brass is something I once considered. On reflection, considering the other things that are also happening to the brass, I decided that once it got long enough to trim, it was also tired enough to replace. If one considers where that length is coming from, one needs to recognize that for semiautos, that growth and impending case head separations may often go hand-in-hand.

This is a reliable M1A/M14 1Kyd load.

Greg
 
Re: best .308 dies?

"If I get stuck as a brigade Executive Officer or similar job, my hours of work a day will be a bit much to be able to shoot as often as I like."

Lordy, hope not as Executive Officer of anything! Exec is, IMHO, the worst possible duty in any outfit! Most work, most responsibility and perhsps the least recognition of all jobs, and that comes from a 70 year old ex-AF E4.

Greg's comments on dies add confirmation to my suggestion that even "common" dies, etc, are quite good if used correctly. If not, no mechanical device can help us!
 
Re: best .308 dies?

I use a Redding standard sizer/de-capper die (not the one with collets), and the bench rest micrometer seater die for my 308. I get 91 to 93% of my reloads with .0015 and less runout. Then I get about 5% with between .0015 to .0025 runout, and the remainder having over about .003. I am very happy with this level of runout. I separate the loads into various runout categories for practice and matches.

I suppose that using the collet sizer die could get me a bit less runout, but probably not much. I am careful to measure the length of cases at mid-shoulder level prior to sizing, and limit how much the shoulder is pushed back. This helps prolong case life.

With this process, brass life is limited to the ability of the primer pocket to tightly hold the primer. When the primer is too easy to seat, the brass goes into the brass recycling bucket.
 
Re: best .308 dies?

IMHO, the primary advantage of more complex and costly dies is that they simplify the processes of adjustment and repeatability. As for what they can do, they can do more, but my needs do not require that 'more'.

I do not worship at the duplicate altars of runout and concentricity. I employ SAAMI spec chambers solely, and consider the benefits of smaller concentricity numbers to be of little benefit in my chambers.

Executive officer is the fire into which one falls when exiting the fry pan. If you want to survive, once one attains a certain status, it become a matter of "Jump, frog; jump!". As we Marines say, "I've done my time in Hell, Sir!". Fear not; and weather your personal storm with honor and perseverance. There are fair seas and following winds upon the storm's subsidence.

Greg
 
Re: best .308 dies?

That is one aspect I did not mention. The M1a really beats up the brass. I was able to score a pretty good amount of once fired (from a M24 Bolt Gun) M118 Lake City LR brass.

From what I hear, the M1a is know for this (along with most semi autos).

I found that when I was shooting iron sights, the expended brass was in pretty good shape, as lone as you made sure that when it was ejected, that it spit them into the grass. When I was using a scope with a Letherwood scope mount, the brass was deflecting off from the scope mount and getting all beat up.

Now with the rebuild, it has the Smith Enterprises mount. I hope this one is a bit easier on my brass. I though about puting a piece of felt on the bottom side of the mount to aid in protecting, but not sure if this would work.
 
Re: best .308 dies?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Fuzzball</div><div class="ubbcode-body">"if you have the money please do yourself a favor and get a Giraud Trimmer - the best money and time saver you can buy...bar none I promise."

Giraud is good but I think you gonna blanch when you see the prices of a Giraud (or Gracy) case trimmer. I suppose they are worth the cost to some, perhaps those who routinely trim several hundred at a time but few of us do that. The Possum Hollow trimer is a rational way to trim lots of cases in a hurry and the price is MUCH less. And, for case work you will also need a case mouth chamfer/deburr tool as well, any of them will do nicely but most of us prefer the little "rocket ship" shaped types.

Actually, the effect of "precision" case trimming is much less than many seem to think. Cases change length as they are fired so getting them cut to a thousanth gets (literally) blown away, immediately. The case neck walls are usually blown hard against the chamber before the bullet fully exits the case anyway so small variations in length and mouth squareness really have no significance to accuracy. Due to that, many of us find the simple and inexpensive Lee case trimmer tools to be quite satisfactory!
</div></div>

I don't think anyone is arguing about the value of "precision trimming." It is more of a time saving device. One approach is to measure all of your spent casings and figure out which ones need to be trimmed after each firing. With the Giraud, it takes as much time to trim as to measure, so basically you are removing all of the time associated with trimming. Further, you are adding a chamfer and deburring in the same operation.

Yes, it depends on how one values his time as well as how many rounds you are going through to determine whether a Giraud is worth it. For someone who goes to the range weekly or more, it is probably a pretty good investment. For someone going to the range monthly, it makes less sense. And someone who goes to the range less than monthly is probably a fool to invest in the Giraud.

On the subject of dies, the very best you can get for sizing dies are true custom dies, which include Neil Jones Custom and Warner Tool dies. I think Neil Jones is cheaper, but his design is great. He uses bushings, but the bushings are combination neck and shoulder. With neck only dies plus a body die, you end up with a bulge at the neck-shoulder juncture as a neck die ends up only partially sizing the neck. Of course, it is also fitted to your chamber to create minimal sizing.

The price for this bad boy is $200 + the cost of bushings. You will also need to send him at least 3 thrice fired and neck-only sized cases.

Expensive? Absolutely... but you asked for the best. As mentioned above, Redding is great for both their competition seater and neck sizing / body die combos. Forster also makes a very good seater.

Redding's seater won a very good shoot-out performed by German Salazar here: Seating Die Shootout

Conspicuously missing from this analysis is the Forster, but present was the Wilson used by most benchrest folks. It is interesting to see the Wilson get beat out... but it was beat out more on concentricity. Benchrest folks might still prefer the Wilson because you use an arbor press to seat with the Wilson, and therefore get a better "feel" for neck tension during the seating process. K&M even makes a gauge for that.
 
Re: best .308 dies?

"Yes, it depends on how one values his time as well as how many rounds you are going through to determine whether a Giraud is worth it. For someone who goes to the range weekly or more, it is probably a pretty good investment."

Maybe. The Possum Hollow trimmer is also quick, good and a WHOLE LOT less costly.

Mr. Salazar's own words puts his artice in the proper perspective: " Read this article for what it is: a brief test using the dies that I happened to have and which shows a way to test rather than producing any absolute results. This is a limited, hobby time test which I conducted for my own information an entertainment."

In other words, Mr. Salazar clearly understands that all he did was find out which of the five seaters he had in that caliber worked best. Statistically, his results don't mean a thing to any one else. We would also have to run a comparitive test with any seaters we may have, and the results from our dies would likely be much different than his.

On average, the Wilson hand seaters will always come out near the top, and the Forster/Reddings too. But any individual Lyman, Hornady, RCBS, Lee, etc, standard seater type in which the manufactoring tolerances stack ideally will seat as straight as it is possible to do.
 
Re: best .308 dies?

Yes, German only used 10 rounds for each test. 30 would be more appropriate. What I found the most fascinating about the article is the correlation between runout and accuracy... with results that you can clearly discern on the targets without statistical analysis.

But getting back to the Redding... I do think that it is a great design. The Wilson seater can be improved by getting a blank and custom reaming it with the same reamer used to ream out your chamber. Of course, that is expensive, plus the fact that you need an arbor press to load... the whole seating setup can get expensive versus just going with a threaded Redding Seater that can pretty much match the Wilson.
 
Re: best .308 dies?

Gents,
I believe you have entered a relm of understanding and complexity beyond the comprehension of the average old Skippy Boy.

Thanks again to all who contributed the info. I definitely have a better understanding on dies, and case trimming.

Just got an e-mail letting me know I scored another hefty suply of Lake City LR brass. Old Ranger buddies are good to have.


Last week I ordered a $300.oo mall gift card for the wife, thus I should not hear so much as a snivel when I commence to ordering some dies and my trimmer.

I am looking forward to this deployment ending, so as to actually get to shoot the M1A after the build, and get on with the reloading.

Thanks,
Skippy
 
Re: best .308 dies?

I'd look at the Dillon 1200 case trimmer. While it does not do the neck chamfering at about half the price it's a good buy. I've used one since they first came out and it's still going strong. It's about half the price of the Giraud and readily available.